Armory Sponsor
Posted: 11/18/2012 9:28:33 PM EDT
| Been looking at this rifle quite a bit lately. Does anyone have any new input on current model? It seems like a very good gun and they have improved the thin barrel issue. Any info is greatly appreciated. Thanks. |
| lol, a little behind on the times aren't ya? Supplies of corrosive 7.62x39mm dried up over a decade ago. 5.45x39mm and 7.62x54mm is the only commonly available surplus ammunition with a corrosive primer, and the corrosive 54R is even becoming less common. You'd pretty much have to *try* to find corrosive 7.62x39 nowadays. And if you clean your gun as you should, when you should, corrosive primers won't cause problems anyways. |
|
Think I've been at this a tad longer than you have. Out here on the coast I've encountered more than my share of other people's guns with rust on them. You can tell people again and again about cleaning and oiling their guns till you're blue in the face and it still happens.
The majority of people buy such a rifle, shoot it once and put it away for a rainy day. If you look around on Perfect Union forums, you can find some pics of a stainless Mini after 6 years stored on a boat. The carbine survived with major TLC. Had it been blued it would have been reduced to orange powder. Don't know why this wasn't offered in stainless as a standard. Try finding a stainless Tactical 14 on Ruger's website (look in the LEO only catalog). |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
lol, a little behind on the times aren't ya? Supplies of corrosive 7.62x39mm dried up over a decade ago. The brass-cased Yugo surplus M67 that was widely available until earlier this year is mildly corrosive. I have a Mini-30 Tactical and it does pretty well with both steel and brass-cased ammo, although it prefers brass-case––especially the Yugo. Biggest problem I have had with mine is the rear sight came loose after several hundred rounds. It tightened back up with the Allen wrench that Ruger includes with the rifle, but had to be resighted in, which also wasn't a big deal. My rifle is quite accurate. All of that being said, I am somewhat lukewarm to the rifle. I may sell it and get an AK instead. Mini-30 Tactical with crate of Yugo M67: http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/237/cases2.jpg IM me if you intend to sell. Been looking for a 580 series stainless 30 but might go with this if the price is right. Might even want to trade out a Saiga I've been meaning to convert but never had the time. My department is looking to hand out pre-580 minis in case of a Mumbai scenario. A 30 would blend in better than a straight AK for work purposes. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
lol, a little behind on the times aren't ya? Supplies of corrosive 7.62x39mm dried up over a decade ago. The brass-cased Yugo surplus M67 that was widely available until earlier this year is mildly corrosive. I have a Mini-30 Tactical and it does pretty well with both steel and brass-cased ammo, although it prefers brass-case––especially the Yugo. Biggest problem I have had with mine is the rear sight came loose after several hundred rounds. It tightened back up with the Allen wrench that Ruger includes with the rifle, but had to be resighted in, which also wasn't a big deal. My rifle is quite accurate. All of that being said, I am somewhat lukewarm to the rifle. I may sell it and get an AK instead. Mini-30 Tactical with crate of Yugo M67: http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/237/cases2.jpg There is no "mildly corrosive". It is either corrosive or not. There is no in between. |
|
There is no "mildly corrosive". It is either corrosive or not. There is no in between. If your comment means you need to clean your firearms after firing any type of corrosive ammunition or you will have detrimental effects, then I agree with you. If you mean that the chemistry behind primer compounds has not changed in the past 100 years, then you're wrong. Anyone who has fired surplus Turkish 8mm Mauser made when the Ottoman Empire was still a going concern and has fired Yugo M67 from 1988 and failed to promptly clean a firearm could tell you a bore will rust much quicker with the older stuff. Why? Because different chemicals created in the process of firing a primer have different coefficients of hygroscopic expansion. In addition, adding water to different salts creates different chemical combinations. Really old Turk ammo likely uses potassium chlorate mixed to mercury fulminate in the primers. More modern commie ammo uses a variety of stuff, but for the sake of this example, the most common is probably sodium petrochlorate and/or potassium petrochlorate. When fired, the primers containing potassium chlorate create a lot of potassium chloride, aka potash, and some potassium hydroxide, aka, lye. The sodium petrochlorate primer, when fired, forms sodium chloride, aka, table salt. Both potassium chloride and sodium chloride are hygroscopic, meaning they have a high affinity for moisture including the moisture found in air (especially humid air). However, the postassium chloride will tend to rust a barrel faster than sodium chloride. Add in a little lye and it will rust much quicker. So, if you think there is no mildly corrosive ammo, meaning ammo that is relatively less aggressive in the formation of rust in a bore, I disagree with you. |
|
Got one for a pig gun, shoots great. Wolf, Yugo, Golden tiger all run fine. They do seem to have different POI though. It's not a tac gun IMHO, fits a ranch gun roll great though. The only real beef I have with it is the 20rnd mags. After 16 rnds the next 4 rnds begin to not angle up and dont feed well. Yes, the stock mags. Its not just mine, my buddy got one at the same time and the four mags we have all do the same thing. That said, 15rnds in a PC package is fine with me. It surprised me with how accurate it is. Shot a bunch of Yugo through it and didnt clean it for a few, no rust. Colo is dry, so YMMV. I think the stainless full size would be a hot ticket for a ranch gun, for zombies I'd stick to an AK or AR.
Eman out. |
Armory Sponsor
