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1/23/2015 6:32:32 PM EDT
So harbor freight  has glass bead, black oxide, and walnut shell. Plus soda blasting equipment.

What type of media would I want to use to take the shine off stainless steal for cerakoting?  How about a little deeper for scratch removal ( can see scratches but can't really feel them, maybe just a bit.


They have a super cheap $25 or so set up for blasting or a $59 pressurized tank for media. I'll hardly ever use it but don't want to struggle with a piece of crap. What say you?
1/23/2015 6:53:46 PM EDT
[#1]
aluminum oxide, 120 grit has been recommended



















 
1/23/2015 11:05:09 PM EDT
[#2]
I use coal slag almost exclusively. $7 for a 50 pound bag at Menard's. Here's my stainless steel 1911 frame blasted with coal slag (I later finished it up with a bead blast finish):



1/24/2015 2:43:28 PM EDT
[#3]
I use 70 grit from Harbor Freight. It helps the Cerakote bite. Do not use glass beads, it will only burnish the surface and Cerakote does not like to stay stuck to it.
1/25/2015 10:52:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Glass bead peens, while Oxide cuts.

If you are going to parkerize first, then peen and parkerize.

If you are going to spray coat on top of bar metal, then cut with oxide, since it gives a better surface for the spray coating to bond to.

Walnut shell is used to clean parts without changing the surface metal too much.

Also, if you have a heavy machine marked part, then oxide is first used to blend the parts to remove the machining marks, then glass bead used afterwards to peen the cut finish to smooth it out.
1/26/2015 12:07:53 AM EDT
[#5]
OK thanks. Interesting stuff. Never heard of using coal slag. Sounds like oxide will be the choice, will walnut shells smooth that out just a bit and leave more tooth for the cerakote than oxide followed by glass bead?
1/27/2015 10:56:27 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote History
Quoted:
OK thanks. Interesting stuff. Never heard of using coal slag. Sounds like oxide will be the choice, will walnut shells smooth that out just a bit and leave more tooth for the cerakote than oxide followed by glass bead?
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I would just use the aluminum oxide and no glass beads. The glass beads will likely "erase" the etching done by the aluminum oxide.

http://www.cerakoteguncoatings.com/resources/files/Cerakote-Training-Manual-Web.pdf
1/28/2015 2:51:12 AM EDT
[#7]
I used Quickcrete Fine Sand to blast an M1 Garand for refinishing, on advice from a local gunsmith.    It worked well.
1/28/2015 10:56:51 AM EDT
[#8]
I use fine grit play sand from home depot, seems to do the trick. I went this route as i dont have a blast cabinet and just secure my items to a cinder block in the yard and blast away. When im done run over the area with a mower to spread the sand around the yard
1/28/2015 1:30:52 PM EDT
[#9]
Most people have a Fastenal in there area, I get my aluminum oxide from them in 120 grit for Ceracoting and parkerizing. 80 is a bit rough
1/28/2015 3:05:48 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote History
Quoted:
I use fine grit play sand from home depot, seems to do the trick. I went this route as i dont have a blast cabinet and just secure my items to a cinder block in the yard and blast away. When im done run over the area with a mower to spread the sand around the yard
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I seriously hope you're using a respirator when you're doing that.
1/28/2015 3:35:21 PM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:


I seriously hope you're using a respirator when you're doing that.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
I use fine grit play sand from home depot, seems to do the trick. I went this route as i dont have a blast cabinet and just secure my items to a cinder block in the yard and blast away. When im done run over the area with a mower to spread the sand around the yard


I seriously hope you're using a respirator when you're doing that.


yep, mask, goggles, gloves, long sleeves, etc...
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