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Posted: 5/17/2013 4:03:04 PM EDT
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I have a 19-3. Ejector rod is hanging at the locking bolt (are toward the muzzle)
Can I polish the locking bolt, pluger I would call it? It looks like it has some sharp edges? The thumbpiece pushes forward fine but the cylinder needs some help being pushed out and I can tell that it is the ejector rod knurled end that is hanging. |
| First off is it tight or loose pretty sure this assembly screws together. I would suggest you find a competent Smith and Wesson gunsmith which is difficult to do. Failing that you might do some light polishing of rough edges on the plunger at the front of the extractor rod. Is the cylinder locking into battery before the hammer falls and is there sufficient clearance between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone of the barrel so that you can see light between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. Sometimes the yoke that the cylinder rides on to spinn needs stretched to push the cylinder back toward the firing pin. That is done with a metal rod inside it and a pipe cutting tool spun around it in a circle a couple of places to stretch it ever so slightly. Old S& W are not for the faint of heart they required a lot of hand fitting, today they are MIM which is very precise but not as strong. |
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First step is to make sure the ejector rod is snug and not unscrewed.
To check, put three EMPTY cases in the chambers to support the ejector assemble and put the ejector rod into a well padded vise. OR: You can wrap a piece of copper or brass shim stock around the rod and grip it with a pair of pliers. Grip as close to the front of the cylinder as possible and be CAREFUL not to bend the rod. The rods do bend easily. The threads in the S&W like yours are RIGHT HAND threads. Make sure the rod is tight, but don't tighten so much you risk stripping the fine threads on the rod and ejector assembly.c Next, check the rod for bends by spinning the cylinder and watching the knurled end for wobble. If all that looks good, close the cylinder and watch the front of the ejector rod as you fully push the cylinder release. What you want to see is the inner ejector rod shaft move out at least even with the outer ejector rod. If the cylinder release assembly or the inner ejector rod are not long enough, the inner rod may not fully push the front cylinder latch forward enough to clear the ejector rod. If it is, check the front cylinder latch for damage. Check the front of the ejector rod for burrs or damage, and the inner mouth for burrs or damage. So we're on the same page here's a schematic: http://www.brownells.com/schematics/Smith-Wesson-/K-Frame-19-sid595.aspx The inner rod is part 6. It has to be long enough to be at least as long as the outer rod part 15 when the cylinder latch is fully pushed. The cylinder latch is part 3. The "pin" on the front must be even with it's hole in the middle of the frame when the latch is pushed. If the pin is damaged or worn (not likely) it can't push the inner ejector rod forward enough. Inspect the front and mouth of the ejector rod part 15. Inspect the front latch part 31 for damage. The most common cause of sticky or hard cylinder opening: A loose ejector rod. |
| I was able loosen the ejector rod by hand so I will go there next and tighten as suggested. The locking bolt looks really sharp the end knurked end has the slighest signs of these sharp edges diggin into the inside lip of the ejector rod and the outside chamfer. I don't believe I have a small punch for the locking bolt pin so will have to make one out of a straight dental pick I have. |
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Here is a pic. I have since polished the end of the extractor rod and the locking bolt. The center pin is slightly less than flush with the extractor rod so this could be a prob
I have noticed I can pull back on the cylinder a few 000s to aid with the opening of the cylinder. Showing a pic of the tiny gap where the play is in front of the cylinder. I suppose this is normal and the gap between the cylinder and forcing cone looks correct, there is not hanging there. EDIT: I trimmed the extractor rod by a few 000s, this worked wonderfully. The knurled end was torn up by the previous owner somehow, perhaps with pliers. I will order a new one if possibe but know I've learned a bit about fitting. "Finished product" - BTW I am using mothers Mag & Aluminum polish lett over from my street rod phase. Works great on the gun bench 
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If you can move the cylinder back and forth that much, you may have excess cylinder end shake.
To find out, push the closed cylinder to the rear and hold it there while you use an automotive feeler gage to gage the gap between the barrel and the cylinder. (This is also the actual barrel cylinder gap). Then push the cylinder forward and hold it there while you gage the gap again. Subtract the one measurement from the other and that's how much end shake is present. Anything over 0.006" is excessive and requires repair. The most common non-gunsmith owner repair is to buy some stainless steel end shake washers from S&W, grease them and drop however many are needed into the disassembled cylinder. |
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