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Posted: 11/24/2012 10:06:42 PM EDT
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I just got a good deal on a Central Machinery 33686 on craigslist.......
Ok, now you can stop laughing. I am a machining newb and bought the machine after checking out it's reviews and understand it's limitations. I purchased the mill to learn on and wanted to get good experience learning set-ups and what does what at a slow pace. It came a bit dirty and I honestly didn't have a clue as to what I was looking for when I bought it. Once I got it home the cleaning began as well as the deep dive into what all it does. The belts are going to be replaced and the plug had the ground popped off so I replaced it. The X and Y move nicely and everything else seemed to be in order. The problem is that when I inserted a new collett and expected a guide to connect to the collett keyway, there wasn't one. I fished around with my finger and felt an indent and took a couple of pics inside: 
I then ran across this article which shows how to break it down to get to the screw that is either missing or backed out. What I am wondering is there a less invasive way to get to that screw? Thanks in advance! |
| I don't know if you need to replace it. We have 2 B'ports at work, one has it and one doesn't . I've run the one without for 15 years, no problem. One of the guys was a tool & die maker and he tells me that guys used to break them out so tool changes would be faster. I'm not really a machinist so I'm not sure my opinion is worth much. |
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Funny you said that. I forgot to say that I called Grizzly since mine is basically a G1006 (late night posting). The guy on the phone couldn't find the screw in the schematic or parts list and said it should be fine without one anyway.
Being new to machining I am just being a bit cautious. |
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The Key way guide is there. Its just that the bolt backed out and the tip of the bolt is no longer protruding into the void of the spindle.
Not sure if you have pulled the spindle yet, but now would be a good time to pull it, clean up the bearings, and even re-tighten the collet guide stud back in place (touch of loctite will keep it there). I say this since the machine looks like it still packed with the cheap grease that come with it (including all the shop debris that you often find litter in with it as well). And another shot of both. Note the socket head cap screw on the side of the spindle. That's the R8 keyway "guide". http://www.fignoggle.com/machines/round-column-mill-drills/figNoggle_taperRollerBearin.jpg Note, if the bolt is tight, but the tip worn, just pick up a new bolt lathe the end of the bolt for the needed replacement keyway guide. P.S, going to find that a lathe goes hand and hand with a mill. The reason, you end up using one to make parts for, or fix the other. |
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Best advice I can give you, pull the machine all the way down, degrease everything to get the sub pair grease out of the machine, check for problem parts (like the fine adjustment housing (part 333 in the manual) that is cracked and may need to be replaced), maybe lap/true the table gibs/dovetails, then lube as you are reassembling.
If your in for a penny, your in for a pound, and best to get all that out of the way before you even start to adjust the gibbs/ tram the head to the table. |
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Quoted:
Best advice I can give you, pull the machine all the way down, degrease everything to get the sub pair grease out of the machine, check for problem parts (like the fine adjustment housing (part 333 in the manual) that is cracked and may need to be replaced), maybe lap/true the table gibs/dovetails, then lube as you are reassembling. If your in for a penny, your in for a pound, and best to get all that out of the way before you even start to adjust the gibbs/ tram the head to the table. You'll learn a lot about the machine doing this, so I'd recommend it. If I had a B-port without one I wouldn't bother replacing, or fixing it. |
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Other than the table, I've now got the whole thing broken down. I have the quill/spindle assembly with me at work today and will have my mechanics give me a hand pressing out the bearings and repacking them. The old grease is like shellac in spots so its a good thing to start fresh.
I also have an e-mail out to Harbor Freight to find out where to order replacement parts like that cover. It's been some work, but I'll still come out ahead and now know how the whole thing operates. Thanks for the replies! |
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