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Posted: 6/28/2012 6:40:16 PM EDT
| is it possible to thread a .22 barrel by hand? i have a old barrel,i wanted to try on, no loss if it doesnt work out. i got a 1/2x28 die and handle and the part that goes in side barrel. i have turned and turned and turned but it just wont start , barely even cut in so far like maybe a 1/4 inch is all. guess what im asking is for tips from anyone that that has did it or does things like this. thanks for your help guys. |
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For starters, the od of the barrel has to be small enough to accept a 1/2 inch diameter die.
You could get there with a file, lots of sand paper, marker die (a Sharpie) and a circle template, but it would be a lot of work and require lots of care to keep the barrel round. Then you'll need a good vice to hold the barrel, and some lube for the die. The diameter should be 0.500 inches, but the threads will still fit well if you reduce it to 0.495. Keeping the threads square to the centerline of the bore is hard. |
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Quoted:
is it possible to thread a .22 barrel by hand? i have a old barrel,i wanted to try on, no loss if it doesnt work out. i got a 1/2x28 die and handle and the part that goes in side barrel. i have turned and turned and turned but it just wont start , barely even cut in so far like maybe a 1/4 inch is all. guess what im asking is for tips from anyone that that has did it or does things like this. thanks for your help guys. If the barrel OD is much more than .550, you'll find it very hard or impossible to start the die, and very hard to keep going and hand cut those threads. .500 or a few thousandths under is ideal. If your barrel OD is bigger than that, it'll have to be profiled down before you can thread it with a die. Even with a .500 barrel OD, you'll want to clamp the barrel in a vise so you can use both hands on the t-bar. Go slow, use plenty of fluid, back off a touch every turn or so to clear and blow away chips. |
| Thanks guys, I took it down to .498, put my bore guide in and started, used plenty of cutting oil and backed of every turn or so. Was done in like 20 minutes. Threaded my suppressor on after trying a flash hider, looked down bore and couldn't see any baffles so I tried a cleaning rod test and it passes through without touching baffles. Turned out great. Thanks for the help. P.s. I taped the barrel where I wanted threads to stop and used a hand file to take it down. Have a good shoulder and I couldn't be happier. |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-JhnjgtxQw
This is a video I made of me cutting muzzle threads 2 weeks ago. |
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Will get pics up soon. I used a bore guide in the die, that make it concentric to the bore, correct? No, since the bore guide has to be able to spin in the bore, it leads to off axis cuts of the threads. Plus, don't get me started on what a bore guide does in the last few inches of barrel rifling when you use such to hand thread a barrel. It's your suppressor, but one baffle strike can pretty much ruin a unit, so might want to just save the money that you may have to spend of having it replace if you do get a baffle strike, and spent just a fraction of that cost on having the barrel lathe threaded correctly now. |
| Thanks Dano, I'm sure your right, guess I'll just send it off somewhere and get it cut down some then threaded. Only 1 local gunsmith here threads barrels and I'm not sure of his skills. So thinking adco would be the way to go. I have another I want threaded also but it's a bull barrel in stainless steel, will getting it threaded mess up the stainless where they put it in the lathe? |
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Thanks Dano, I'm sure your right, guess I'll just send it off somewhere and get it cut down some then threaded. Only 1 local gunsmith here threads barrels and I'm not sure of his skills. So thinking adco would be the way to go. I have another I want threaded also but it's a bull barrel in stainless steel, will getting it threaded mess up the stainless where they put it in the lathe? I'm pretty sure if you send it to ADCO (or any other gunsmith worth a shit) they won't scratch your barrel. All the lathe does is hold it in a chuck like putting a drill-bit into a hand-drill. You just have to pad the work and the chuck won't leave marks on it. Stainless steel is stainless throughout it's composition, so even if they did scratch it, it could be buffed out and be just fine again. |
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Thanks Dano, I'm sure your right, guess I'll just send it off somewhere and get it cut down some then threaded. Only 1 local gunsmith here threads barrels and I'm not sure of his skills. So thinking adco would be the way to go. I have another I want threaded also but it's a bull barrel in stainless steel, will getting it threaded mess up the stainless where they put it in the lathe? You're not far from Nat Lambeth, look him up for first class gunsmithing machine work. |
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-JhnjgtxQw This is a video I made of me cutting muzzle threads 2 weeks ago. Floating threading tool makes cutting threads much easier. No more having to back out the cross slide a turn when you reach the end relief cut, taking the carriage back to the end of the work piece, reengaging the half nut on the counter correctly, returning the cross slide back to zero, then advancing the compound slide for the next cut on the threads. With with a floating threading tool, just stop the machine at the relief cut, reverse the machine to walk the cutter back over the threads, then increase the compound slide for the next cut (can do such as the cutter is walking back even). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JFdNaBD5GM&feature=player_embedded The bad news, no one makes this tool so you have to make it yourself. http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2323.0 |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m-JhnjgtxQw This is a video I made of me cutting muzzle threads 2 weeks ago. Floating threading tool makes cutting threads much easier. No more having to back out the cross slide a turn when you reach the end relief cut, taking the carriage back to the end of the work piece, reengaging the half nut on the counter correctly, returning the cross slide back to zero, then advancing the compound slide for the next cut on the threads. With with a floating threading tool, just stop the machine at the relief cut, reverse the machine to walk the cutter back over the threads, then increase the compound slide for the next cut (can do such as the cutter is walking back even). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8JFdNaBD5GM&feature=player_embedded The bad news, no one makes this tool so you have to make it yourself. http://madmodder.net/index.php?topic=2323.0 That's god damn brilliant. I can't count how many times I lost count of where I was on the cross slide, and missed my number. I hate waiting for the number. |
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