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Posted: 2/13/2010 3:09:26 PM EDT
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Ok ive done the ar thing and I am a profesional diesel mechanic . My question is Im building my first mauser Im going too build an 18 ish inch barrell 308 tactical rifle out of a mauser action I have.
What should Ieave too the pros and what is worth the time too do yourself ive read alot on the mauser forum just wondering what others may see. Always looking for advice and openions (sarcastic comments are welcome too ). Im thinking Ill lap the lugs with lapping compound and I think the article on the bolt jewling jig looks simple enough, final fitting of the stock is doable .I know im gonna send out the action too be trued and drilled for bases for the scope as well as final machining of the chamber any other advice ?
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I have to take the lady out for supper tonight but if you want I can post pictures of my "tactical" Mauser build. It was my first attempt at "real" gunsmithing, did it about 10 years ago before I was a machinist but it turned out pretty well, shoots and feeds good. It's a .308. As far as barrel vise, I just made my own. They're pretty simple. ETA: Total cost then was $75 for the action, $100 for the barrel on clearance, $160 for the stock, about $50 in the Duracoat. $30 Leupold base and $30 rings. Traded for a used .308 reamer and ground the pilot myself for a .0005-.001 fit. Stock parts for everything else. Could use a trigger. |
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Do you guys have a Brownell's catalog ? If so Take a look at the " Shop Price Survey " ( pg. 304 in last year's # 61 catalog ).
In Joe's other thread, about a mauser conversion, I mentioned that it might not be cost effective, as compared to factory built rifles. Anyway, I just spent a few min. running a total cost for a basic mauser conversion using the above survey. Metal work: $580.00 to $ 1570.00 ( this includes 3 - 4 hr, machine work for feed lip / magazine work ) Stock work : $470.00 to $1275.00 ( wood stock ) Totals : $1050.00 to $2845.00.............This is labor only, and not unreasonable prices. I was a gunsmith for 20 years, and has to charge on the high end of this scale to almost make ends meet. For quality parts, I'd buget another $1000.00 at least, depending on what you want, mabe twice that. I'm not out to burst anyones bubble, or anything, just making you aware of the cost involved. Sure you can save some $$$ if you can do some or most of the work yourself, barrel work, in this example was $75.00 - $250.00 . Building rifles is fun and rewarding, if a tad expensive, but hell it's your money, spend it any way that suits your fancy. Best of luck, and have fun. |
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My 308 Mauser build so far has been pretty cheap.
$75 action $120 Brownells short chambered barrel $65 shorten to 20 inches, thread, crown and make a custom matching thread protector $70 ATI mauser stock, no top hand guard, bedded with fiberglass myself, and filled the butstock with expanding foam $50 Bold trigger $20 side safety $40 EGW rail $10 silver solder bolt handle conversion from a bolt and a kitchen door knob $440 so far The chamber reamer should be here tuesday, me and two friends are splitting the cost so it will run $20 each for the rental. I already have chamber gauges from other projects. Last things to do include finish reaming, painting, scope with rings, and a bi-pod. For doing Mausers, my references have been Wagners Mauser stuff and Mauser Central Forums. Take your time and plan your build and it can come out real cheap for a great rifle. |
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Here's what I've done so far:
> Surface grind front and rear bridges > Charger Hump Removed > Re-machine barrel threads concentric to bore > Face turn inner c-ring and front of action > Blind rear guard screw hole > Receiver re-heat treatment > Lap bolt lugs and bolt face > Drill and tap 8x40 or 6x48 (choice) > Custom scope bases > Custom bolt stop thumb-pad > Bolt handle > 2 Position safety > Blackburn trigger > New guard screws > Refurbish '09 Argentine bottom metal with new floorplate and release lever > Machine and install Douglass premium grade bbl > Special chamber for .280 Rem > Install NECG bbl rear and front sight > Install sling swivel bbl band > Re-locate serial number to rear tang groove > Flair rear tang > Polish $2,200 |
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yeah my totals to-date are $0.0 for the action and the canjar gold trigger kuraki id love too see a tactical mauser build up pics |
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Quoted:
Here's what I've done so far: > Surface grind front and rear bridges ......Got'ya > Charger Hump Removed ....Ok. > Re-machine barrel threads concentric to bore ....Ok. > Face turn inner c-ring and front of action ...Ok. > Blind rear guard screw hole ........Do what? > Receiver re-heat treatment ..........Ok this was a re heat treat/ color case hardened job ? > Lap bolt lugs and bolt face .......... on a sporter this is questionable, but OK in my book > Drill and tap 8x40 or 6x48 (choice)............. go 8x40 > Custom scope bases ............Ok , mabe, if required ? > Custom bolt stop thumb-pad ??????????? > Bolt handle.......Ok > 2 Position safety ...................I'd go 3 position here JMHO > Blackburn trigger .....Ok > New guard screws .......Ok > Refurbish '09 Argentine bottom metal with new floorplate and release lever .......... Here lies many opinions, I like new botton metal. > Machine and install Douglass premium grade bbl............I'm ok w/ Douglas, but with the money that you are throwing about, I would ask for better > Special chamber for .280 Rem............Nice cal. > Install NECG bbl rear and front sight........Why? > Install sling swivel bbl band.......On a 280? > Re-locate serial number to rear tang groove. .......Relocate, why? > Flair rear tang.....Good with this > Polish..........Well yea, duh! $2,200 I'm good with that, given that you are in line with making a nice Mauser, I think you are , or should be about on target.........Press on man the grail is in sight....more or less. Take it where ever you want............ |
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My 308 Mauser build so far has been pretty cheap. $75 action $120 Brownells short chambered barrel $65 shorten to 20 inches, thread, crown and make a custom matching thread protector $70 ATI mauser stock, no top hand guard, bedded with fiberglass myself, and filled the butstock with expanding foam..? Expanding foam you say.......WECSCOG ?? $50 Bold trigger...BOLD YOU SAY ? Never heard of it....... $20 side safety... ? Do you mean low scope safety? $40 EGW rail.........??? never heard of it..... WECSOG? $10 silver solder bolt handle conversion from a bolt and a kitchen door knob................WTF ? Serious?........I'm try'ng to get my mind around this kitchen door knob thing. $440 so far The chamber reamer should be here tuesday, me and two friends are splitting the cost so it will run $20 each for the rental. I already have chamber gauges from other projects. Last things to do include finish reaming, painting, scope with rings, and a bi-pod. For doing Mausers, my references have been Wagners Mauser stuff and Mauser Central Forums. Take your time and plan your build and it can come out real cheap for a great rifle. Nevermind ! |
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the only thing original is the bolt body, the reciever, botom metal and ejector everything else in new.... I love it...my first bolt action build... single set trigger color case hard receiver claro walnut stock fiberglass stock heavy contour barrel .308 every thing is lapped in both stocks are aluminum bedded and glassed in http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050116.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050128.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050132.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050130.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050117.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PB050099.jpg Looks like you're pretty close, I'd say 1/4- 12" shorter on the forarm,(but that's a taste thing) , new bottom metal,fore sure, and roll the top in ( the wood i mean ) Out side of that, That is a pretty good looking custom rifle............Overall I'd day 6/10 , but with new bottom metal I dould go 8/10 .mabe higher I might say rightous if you fininished the project..........But it's a good looking rifle compared to most. You went where most don't go, now finish up, and folow through..............Come on now, And I'll give you a well deserved 10/10.........You can do it !!!..........Oh , that bolt handle has got to go............... But seriously , Good effort, keep at it, you;ve almost got it, now try a little bit harder............I'm not going to pat your back for doing it right., Ill just slap you for doing it wrong But Ill try to do it in a nice way. Your stock lines are nice, but you diddin't file the action tang to match...........FAIL. The top of the stock ends at a low point...........Too low I think........Conjecture ( afraid of metal )........I like the wood to come to within a 1/16 Stock lines stop too far from bottom metal..........Guess- you don't like bottom metal...........otherwise , timed- afraid of metal....( as above ) Honestly : You are about an 1,8 th of an inch away from "Gunmaker" tollerance, You are good-now you have to push it......just a bit, and you will "be there" I don't kmow if you can checker or not, and that would be the clincher, but you may have the makings oa a stockmaker in you. I Don't say this to flater you, I say this based of of one picture on the internet, and that picture tells me that you are close to being a stockmaker Truth is lots of guys make stocks - or try to. Mostly they make thick, or thin things that they call stocks, poorly shaped, and wrongly porportioned. Your come pretty damn close, by looks ........... And that's what makes you different, I'm Not saying that you are or could or should become a stockmaker Just say'n I been around a few, and I think that you have the basic talent. |
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Quoted: Quoted: the only thing original is the bolt body, the reciever, botom metal and ejector everything else in new.... I love it...my first bolt action build... single set trigger color case hard receiver claro walnut stock fiberglass stock heavy contour barrel .308 every thing is lapped in both stocks are aluminum bedded and glassed in http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050116.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050128.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050132.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050130.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050117.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PB050099.jpg Looks like you're pretty close, I'd say 1/4- 12" shorter on the forarm,(but that's a taste thing) , new bottom metal,fore sure, and roll the top in ( the wood i mean ) Out side of that, That is a pretty good looking custom rifle............Overall I'd day 6/10 , but with new bottom metal I dould go 8/10 .mabe higher I might say rightous if you fininished the project..........But it's a good looking rifle compared to most. You went where most don't go, now finish up, and folow through..............Come on now, And I'll give you a well deserved 10/10.........You can do it !!!..........Oh , that bolt handle has got to go............... But seriously , Good effort, keep at it, you;ve almost got it, now try a little bit harder............I'm not going to pat your back for doing it right., Ill just slap you for doing it wrong But Ill try to do it in a nice way. Your stock lines are nice, but you diddin't file the action tang to match...........FAIL. The top of the stock ends at a low point...........Too low I think........Conjecture ( afraid of metal )........I like the wood to come to within a 1/16 Stock lines stop too far from bottom metal..........Guess- you don't like bottom metal...........otherwise , timed- afraid of metal....( as above ) Honestly : You are about an 1,8 th of an inch away from "Gunmaker" tollerance, You are good-now you have to push it......just a bit, and you will "be there" I don't kmow if you can checker or not, and that would be the clincher, but you may have the makings oa a stockmaker in you. I Don't say this to flater you, I say this based of of one picture on the internet, and that picture tells me that you are close to being a stockmaker Truth is lots of guys make stocks - or try to. Mostly they make thick, or thin things that they call stocks, poorly shaped, and wrongly porportioned. Your come pretty damn close, by looks ........... And that's what makes you different, I'm Not saying that you are or could or should become a stockmaker Just say'n I been around a few, and I think that you have the basic talent. Constructive criticism is great, but can we keep the "FAIL" type of comments in GD? This is a technical forum. Nothing will kill participation faster than off the cuff comments like that. |
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the only thing original is the bolt body, the receiver, bottom metal and ejector everything else in new.... I love it...my first bolt action build... single set trigger color case hard receiver claro walnut stock fiberglass stock heavy contour barrel .308 every thing is lapped in both stocks are aluminum bedded and glassed in http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050116.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050128.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050132.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050130.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PC050117.jpg http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a105/mauser348/project/PB050099.jpg Looks like you're pretty close, I'd say 1/4- 12" shorter on the forarm,(but that's a taste thing) , new bottom metal,fore sure, and roll the top in ( the wood i mean ) Out side of that, That is a pretty good looking custom rifle............Overall I'd day 6/10 , but with new bottom metal I dould go 8/10 .mabe higher I might say rightous if you fininished the project..........But it's a good looking rifle compared to most. You went where most don't go, now finish up, and folow through..............Come on now, And I'll give you a well deserved 10/10.........You can do it !!!..........Oh , that bolt handle has got to go............... But seriously , Good effort, keep at it, you;ve almost got it, now try a little bit harder............I'm not going to pat your back for doing it right., Ill just slap you for doing it wrong But Ill try to do it in a nice way. Your stock lines are nice, but you diddin't file the action tang to match...........FAIL.[ it is flush when the bottom metal and the receiver is screw together...in these picture it is just sitting in the wood..i was in a hurry The top of the stock ends at a low point...........Too low I think........Conjecture ( afraid of metal )........I like the wood to come to within a 1/16if it was tightened in it is flush Stock lines stop too far from bottom metal..........Guess- you don't like bottom metal...........otherwise , timed- afraid of metal....( as above )same as above it is just sitting in there Honestly : You are about an 1,8 th of an inch away from "Gunmaker" tollerance, You are good-now you have to push it......just a bit, and you will "be there" I am well into tolerance of a gunmaker...but not to a master level obviously I don't kmow if you can checker or not, and that would be the clincher, but you may have the makings oa a stockmaker in you.I can checker but it is not pretty I need more practice I Don't say this to flater you, I say this based of of one picture on the internet, and that picture tells me that you are close to being a stockmaker Truth is lots of guys make stocks - or try to. Mostly they make thick, or thin things that they call stocks, poorly shaped, and wrongly porportioned. Your come pretty damn close, by looks ........... And that's what makes you different, I'm Not saying that you are or could or should become a stockmaker Just say'n I been around a few, and I think that you have the basic talent. Constructive criticism is great, but can we keep the "FAIL" type of comments in GD? This is a technical forum. Nothing will kill participation faster than off the cuff comments like that. any major mistakes are in the photography...not the metal or the wood (thought they are not perfect)....but the metal is just sitting in the stock and because of the glass bedding a tight fit and when I took the pictures I did not screw the metal in.....so the fit is actually flush metal to wood....now there are four obvious mistakes/difference (this depends on point of view) cosmetically from a "Classic American Hunting rifle" point of view....one because I did it wrong and three because I did not like them .... the fore arm is cut to length for the barrel length for a "Classic American Hunting rifle" but the stock is cut to fit to a large man (ME)... I want new bottom metal because even though I tried to shock the bluing it did not take too well...and it has a small crack.... If I get around to it I will post photo's of the metal sitting into the wood properly.... this is the first thing I ever made out of wood....
I do not mind constructive criticism...but I want it to be about something that realy is wrong...I am not mad...because I can see why the pictures would make you say what you needed to say and for that I say thank you.... I also have to point out that you do have a good eye....and hazard a guess that you might make a better stock than me... |
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That's abought that, im' thinking...............just so it comes out stupid, on my part and others...............To the op. I thimk you have the makings of a great stockmaker in you, but you must deal with "judgement".
I never ment to pick on you, And I don't think that I did. I just ment to encourage you.......Sorry if I came off otherwise..........I encourage you to go boulder, to push the boundarys , to take the borders furtherther..........Know no boundries, and press on......Spelling Natzi's piss off............... Now back to your stock, for the most part I like it (a lot in fact). But I would prefer a few differences,........small diferences ,These are mostly small things, like the lentgth of the forearm. and the wdtith of the wood/vs the width of the steel..............Small things to be sure.......... But it is the small things, after all that make all the difference........Is that not so ? To any that I may have evidently pissed off : My sincere oppology, I must have forgot my self,,,or my proper FOURM. Anything that I may have said, I must apoligise for, and beg your forgiveness. All that I said was ment as encouragement, encluding the fail comment........ If taken otherwise, I most wholeheartly ,recant , and reguret my words.............(Spelling Natzis eat my shorts) ...........Love Yobama.. |
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). Im thinking Ill lap the lugs with lapping compound and I think the article on the bolt jewling jig looks simple enough, final fitting of the stock is doable .I know im gonna send out the action too be trued and drilled for bases for the scope as well as final machining of the chamber any other advice ?





