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8/10/2017 11:56:04 AM EDT
Anyone know of a Weaver type base, or base set for M92's? I ordered a Weaver 418 per a suggestion, but their underside radius is way larger than the .357's barrel diameter radius at the front two factory threaded holes.
Also, the factory treaded holes for the scope's rear base attachment are so close to the breach, that the Leupold's eyepiece overhangs because they caution not to secure a ring any closer than 3/4" in front of the ocular bell. So I ordered a Weaver Extended Scope Ring Set to move the scope forward.
Any and all suggestions welcomed.
8/10/2017 12:06:12 PM EDT
[#1]
Don't know much about Pearson's but here's a link

http://mod94scoperail.com/
8/10/2017 4:40:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Wow! Thanks.
I see he makes one for my M92 Browning as well.
8/18/2017 1:20:27 PM EDT
[#3]
An update to where I am at now:
Chippa recommended a Weaver #418 scope base set so I order a set in. However the included 8-40 oval head screws were too big for the Huntsman's thread holes. The correct size is 6-48.
I have some of those from my Brownells screw kit, so I've verified this.
Also ordered a Weaver off-set scope ring kit in order to move the 2.5x Leupold's eye piece forward of the open breech. Seems the scope's mounting instructions include a warning not to ring the scope body any closer than 1/2 inch in front of the ocular bell. This results in the scope being pushed rearwards with convention 'straight up' type scope rings. Of course, a longer one-piece scope base would solve this more efficiently, and if I ever find a longer Weaver base with the right underside radius, I'll go with that. That will lower the scope more where I want it as well.
Also, there is a lot of barrel diameter taper between the barrel's rear cope base mounting holes and the front pair. So I've made some shims to 'level' the front base with the rear as much as possible when I finally get the Skinner Rear Peep sight screws loose.
And since Leupold's are shipped with their reticles dead-center, my plan is to zero the scope for elevation by shimming under the front base before securing screws with thread locker.
When I get done, I'll post photos...
8/18/2017 6:29:09 PM EDT
[#4]
I have one of the scout mounts shown in the link, it works pretty well.
8/19/2017 6:23:32 AM EDT
[#5]
Thanks, I may well end up there. Unfortunately I pre-invested in some of the hardware and want to see if I can make it work.
8/30/2017 7:13:29 AM EDT
[#6]
Finally got her done...the long hard way...

Obtain Leupold 2.5x28 FX-II 2.5x Scout Scope from Brownells (on sale and free shipping).
Obtain Weaver Scope Base Set 418M.
Factory scope base holes are 6-48 and not very deep (.116, 108, 105, and .116” respectively).
Note: rear 418M base conformed pretty well to barrel radius, but not perfect. Front base was not even close as the barrel (16”) tapers a lot from rear to front.
Base screws supplied by Weaver 418M were 8-40” so could not be used.
Obtained slotted screw assortment from Brownells that included 6-48’s of various lengths.
Barrel threaded holes start 2” from front edge of receiver.
Remove Skinner rear peep sight.
Heated a steel rod the same diameter as the large-headed Skinner rear sight screws red hot and laid it on the screw head for about 30 seconds to heat screw and loosen thread locker. Used a Brownells Magna Tip #240-3 to loosen the screws.
Straight-up Weaver ring set I had would  not position scope eyepiece far enough forward to clear lever action case ejection.
Obtain Weaver double off-set ring set from Brownells.
Shortest 6-48 screws (5/32”) Weaver Oval, Slotted from Brownell’s assortment were too long and bottomed out in factory barrel holes. Used the steel bar screw thread checker that came with the screw assortment as a “screw grizzly” and filed (shortened) them to .125”. Still too long.  Made another grizzly from a piece of steel .065” thick. Screws are now very short but seem to take hold ok with about 2 full turns. Used Brownells #180-3 Magna Tip.
Used one shim (.010”) each on both front and rear bases to better conform their undersides  to barrel radius and not allow the short screws to “bottom out” as they are tightened down.
Shims were made from “foil” wrapper from a wine bottle. Foil material seems stout enough, kind of thick, but conforming. Cuts easily with scissors. “Punched” screw holes useing the base as a guide and a Brownells  3/32” roll pin holder as a screw hole punch over a block of soft wood. Made prefect little holes, then trimmed to size to fit under bases.
Mounted scope and test fired at 10 yards. Rifle grouped about 14 inches high.
Note: this ring set positioned the scope perfectly in front of the receiver using the factory barrel tapped holes.
Placed two more shims under front base. Still shot way high. (You can see the growing shim stack in the above photo.)
Placed two more shims under front base. Still shot too high, but now using longer (1/4”) screws as shims stack up.
Assuming Leupold shipped the scope with the reticle centered, more shims needed under front base before utilizing the scope’s internal adjustments.
Placed more shims under front base until groups were on-paper at 50 yards.
Note: as I was adding shims and compressing them under the front base, the radius to radius fit is nearing perfect as the shim stack begin mimicking the barrel diameter at that location.
Using the scope’s internal adjustments, zeroed at 50 yards. My 158 gr. hand loads are grouping under an inch.

Note: I had to be very careful not to overtighten the base screws during their many re-applications as the threaded holes in the barrel were so shallow, because had I stripped those holes, I’d been “screwed.”

Except for the nostalgia thing with the lever action, had I to do this “.357 Magnum Repeating Rifle” thing again, I’d buy a Ruger bolt action in .357.
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