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Posted: 12/28/2013 8:31:41 PM EDT
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I'll be picking up my .44mag Rossi 92' on the 31st . I've ordered the DIY Steve's Gunz kit, other than refinishing the wood and cycling the action
several hundred times, what other tweaks can I do? Edit; I took the Rossi out on New years day and put 100 or so rounds through it; some mid-range .44 mag reloads and some .44 special rounds I rolled for a Ruger Bisley .44 special I purchased recently. The only thing I've done to it so far is cycle the action several hundred times while I was watching the Twilight Zone marathon the night before. The trigger is WAY better than expected, very crisp and breaking at 6#. Maybe Braztec is reading internet posts or maybe I just got a good one but either way I'm pretty impressed so far! |
| The internal machining on both my guns was very rough. I tore them down completely (Paco Kelly's Leverguns.com has an awesome article on taking down the 92), after stripping the receiver I scrubbed the insides with solvent and a M16 toothbrush. Slathered some 800 grit lapping compound inside the rails and mortices. Reassembled the gun, cycled it a couple hundred times. Tore it down again and scrubbed it clean of abrasive, then lubed it up good with wheel bearing grease and reassembled. Runs slick as dog snot now. |
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If it has the unneeded safety, it can be replaced with a plug quite easily. The spring kit and a good break in is all that is really needed. http://store.stevesgunz.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=4 |
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Thanks for the tip on Paco Kelly's, other than Savage 99's it's been a while since I've had a levergun apart.
I had planned to remove the little safety ....unless of course it fell off on it's own so I ordered the plug along w/ the DIY kit. Reloading has always been part of my shooting fun and other than .22s don't really remember the last time I bought a loaded round, recently I started wet tumbling w/ the Harbor Freight unit and stainless media and the results are amazing, it will really raise your sense of accomplishment w/ your handloads! |
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I've done 3 Rossis using Steve's DvD and parts to smooth out the action and lighten up the trigger; my 2 and a friend's, and all came out great. After nearly 4,000rds through each of mine, they still work very smoothly feeding both 38spl and 357mag with ease. As to refinishing the stocks, you might want to give this simple approach a try before you strip down the finish and start again. My Rossi's stocks both looked dull and had little depth or color to them straight out of the box. I even added some oil to this stock first to brighten it up but it failed to add any depth or color as you can see here on my carbine.  Rather than stripping them down, I first tried out a simple fix. I use WATCO Danish Oil, Medium Walnut (available at Home Depot and Lowes) around the house on all my wood doors, jams, and baseboards so I cleaned the stock of any dirt and/or oils and then applied a single wet coat over the top of the existing finish and let it dry completely. Note: WATCO takes about a week to harden completely so be patient. When it's completely hardened, it forms a good, strong finish that resists dents and scrapes that occur due to the wood's naturally softer makeup. If the shine is a bit too much, a very light 0000 steel wool buff can dull the finish a bit or a bit of wax can shine it up if desired. I think the result was well worth the small effort as my carbine's stock now has great depth, added color, and really helps make the rifles look fine.  The added color and shine even helps bring out the colors of the case hardening look on the receiver of my rifle.  Both of mine now get comments at the range and many people who've asked me about them have successfully tried it out themselves. It sure beats stripping down to bare wood, staining them, and then finishing them again. |
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Remove the bolt safety, remove the hammer lock. When you take off the stock, check for small cracks in the tang area- many of these stock are incorrectly inletted so they are too tight and cracks start when they are forced on at the factory. If there is a crack, fix it now with pegs and epoxy. When you take off the handguards, you will find that the barrel band screws will not line up when you try to reinstall them. Don't try to fight it - you will just strip them. Instead use small files to correctly align the hole in the handguard, the groove in the barrel, and the groove in the magazine tube. Try not to cut the gooves deeper into the barrel or mag tube, just move them forward or aft as needed. I have done this on probably around 20 rifles, and did not need to do it on only 2. Steve's Gunz DVD tells you everything you need on the action. I recommend refinishing the wood - it is always a lot nicer wood than it look like. Use an oil finish like raw linseed oil or tung if you want something that goes a bit faster. If you are really daring, antique it:  Custom finishes: http://762precision.wordpress.com Front Line Holsters: http://www.7-62precision.com |
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Quoted:
I've done 3 Rossis using Steve's DvD and parts to smooth out the action and lighten up the trigger; my 2 and a friend's, and all came out great. After nearly 4,000rds through each of mine, they still work very smoothly feeding both 38spl and 357mag with ease. As to refinishing the stocks, you might want to give this simple approach a try before you strip down the finish and start again. My Rossi's stocks both looked dull and had little depth or color to them straight out of the box. I even added some oil to this stock first to brighten it up but it failed to add any depth or color as you can see here on my carbine. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/100_0703.jpg Rather than stripping them down, I first tried out a simple fix. I use WATCO Danish Oil, Medium Walnut (available at Home Depot and Lowes) around the house on all my wood doors, jams, and baseboards so I cleaned the stock of any dirt and/or oils and then applied a single wet coat over the top of the existing finish and let it dry completely. Note: WATCO takes about a week to harden completely so be patient. When it's completely hardened, it forms a good, strong finish that resists dents and scrapes that occur due to the wood's naturally softer makeup. If the shine is a bit too much, a very light 0000 steel wool buff can dull the finish a bit or a bit of wax can shine it up if desired. I think the result was well worth the small effort as my carbine's stock now has great depth, added color, and really helps make the rifles look fine. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/DSCN2837.jpg The added color and shine even helps bring out the colors of the case hardening look on the receiver of my rifle. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/DSCN2843.jpg Both of mine now get comments at the range and many people who've asked me about them have successfully tried it out themselves. It sure beats stripping down to bare wood, staining them, and then finishing them again. that rifle is gorgeous, the exact one I want. speed |
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I prefer to use raw linseed oil or if you want an oil finish that goes a bit faster, tung oil. If you cut them with turpentine, or even mineral spirits, they will penetrate deeply and really bring out the grain. You can tke the original finish off, which I generally prefer, or apply the oil over the existing finish, which often works well, too. The Rossi wood is usually a lot better-looking than the factory finish will let you see. You can use Tapadera's stain to adjust the colour, it works really well. http://www.tapaderaswinchesters.com/gunstockstain.html Custom finishes: http://762precision.wordpress.com Front Line Holsters: http://www.7-62precision.com |
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Quoted:
snip. When you take off the stock, check for small cracks in the tang area- many of these stock are incorrectly inletted so they are too tight and cracks start when they are forced on at the factory. If there is a crack, fix it now with pegs and epoxy. When you take off the handguards, you will find that the barrel band screws will not line up when you try to reinstall them. Don't try to fight it - you will just strip them. Instead use small files to correctly align the hole in the handguard, the groove in the barrel, and the groove in the magazine tube. Try not to cut the gooves deeper into the barrel or mag tube, just move them forward or aft as needed. I have done this on probably around 20 rifles, and did not need to do it on only 2. snip This is EXACTLY what happened to me. 
I repaired the split stock, and fitted the band to get it to line up. The only other things I've done are mill the rear sight flat and cleaned the rusty spot out of the bore. She shoots good with my handloads. |
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Quoted:
that doesn't sound weird at all 
Quoted:
Quoted: The only thing I've done to it so far is cycle the action several hundred times while I was watching the Twilight Zone marathon....[/b] that doesn't sound weird at all
Cycling the action smooths the wear surfaces, since the Rossi rifles often come pretty rough from the factory. |
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Maybe because of the rougher internal finish, the Rossis are oversprung. Besides making the actions stiff and throwing the brass into the next county, the heavy springs put a lot of load on the rifle which wears it out faster (per Steve' Gunz). Doing the mods in Steve's DVD not only makes the gun's action and trigger lighter and smoother, but it also reduces destructive wear. Both my rifle and carbine have over 4K rds through them and they are good as new. |
| Instead of the plug for the slide, I used Steve's peep sight. I love the sight picture now and it is great to have an accurate pistol cal carbine that you can load up real hot. I am pushing 180gr cast out at 1600 fps from my .357 carbine. The brass doesn't last too long but it thumps with authority. |
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Quoted: I've done 3 Rossis using Steve's DvD and parts to smooth out the action and lighten up the trigger; my 2 and a friend's, and all came out great. After nearly 4,000rds through each of mine, they still work very smoothly feeding both 38spl and 357mag with ease. As to refinishing the stocks, you might want to give this simple approach a try before you strip down the finish and start again. My Rossi's stocks both looked dull and had little depth or color to them straight out of the box. I even added some oil to this stock first to brighten it up but it failed to add any depth or color as you can see here on my carbine. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/100_0703.jpg Rather than stripping them down, I first tried out a simple fix. I use WATCO Danish Oil, Medium Walnut (available at Home Depot and Lowes) around the house on all my wood doors, jams, and baseboards so I cleaned the stock of any dirt and/or oils and then applied a single wet coat over the top of the existing finish and let it dry completely. Note: WATCO takes about a week to harden completely so be patient. When it's completely hardened, it forms a good, strong finish that resists dents and scrapes that occur due to the wood's naturally softer makeup. If the shine is a bit too much, a very light 0000 steel wool buff can dull the finish a bit or a bit of wax can shine it up if desired. I think the result was well worth the small effort as my carbine's stock now has great depth, added color, and really helps make the rifles look fine. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/DSCN2837.jpg The added color and shine even helps bring out the colors of the case hardening look on the receiver of my rifle. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/DSCN2843.jpg Both of mine now get comments at the range and many people who've asked me about them have successfully tried it out themselves. It sure beats stripping down to bare wood, staining them, and then finishing them again. |
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Quoted:I tried the Watco oil and it didn't turn out half as good as yours. It is not shiney at all. Also, I have a blued reciever, but would like to get the case hardened look. Can I just strip off the blue, or do I need to take it completely apart and have it case hardened. That is probably a stupid question but I have no clue about this stuff. As far as case colouring, I don't know of anyone in the US that does the surface colouring as a service. If anyone knows someone, I would be interested to hear about it. I know several companies that do good colour case hardening and some are not too expensive. I know of no good do-it-yourself way to replicate the look of case hardening. Some people do it with a torch and oil, but the results are very poor - worse when you see it in person than in photos, and I would worry about all that uncontrolled heat does to the hardness of the metal. |
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Quoted:
Cycling the action smooths the wear surfaces, since the Rossi rifles often come pretty rough from the factory. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted: The only thing I've done to it so far is cycle the action several hundred times while I was watching the Twilight Zone marathon....[/b] that doesn't sound weird at all
Cycling the action smooths the wear surfaces, since the Rossi rifles often come pretty rough from the factory. I must have got lucky since my 454 Casull Rossi/Braztech is nice and slick. Mine has a factory recoil pad and for good reason. However, you'd have to deliberately design such an ugly pad. 
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Quoted: However, you'd have to deliberately design such an ugly pad. My wife has one and I have debated fitting a buttplate, since the recoil is not too bad, but I think I will leave it and cover it with a leather buttstock cover. I have looked for a nice thin buttpad option to replace it with, but the stock is the wrong shape and size for anything to fit. |
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Quoted: I tried the Watco oil and it didn't turn out half as good as yours. It is not shiney at all. Also, I have a blued reciever, but would like to get the case hardened look. Can I just strip off the blue, or do I need to take it completely apart and have it case hardned. That is probably a stupid question but I have no clue about this stuff. Quoted: Quoted: I've done 3 Rossis using Steve's DvD and parts to smooth out the action and lighten up the trigger; my 2 and a friend's, and all came out great. After nearly 4,000rds through each of mine, they still work very smoothly feeding both 38spl and 357mag with ease. As to refinishing the stocks, you might want to give this simple approach a try before you strip down the finish and start again. My Rossi's stocks both looked dull and had little depth or color to them straight out of the box. I even added some oil to this stock first to brighten it up but it failed to add any depth or color as you can see here on my carbine. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/100_0703.jpg Rather than stripping them down, I first tried out a simple fix. I use WATCO Danish Oil, Medium Walnut (available at Home Depot and Lowes) around the house on all my wood doors, jams, and baseboards so I cleaned the stock of any dirt and/or oils and then applied a single wet coat over the top of the existing finish and let it dry completely. Note: WATCO takes about a week to harden completely so be patient. When it's completely hardened, it forms a good, strong finish that resists dents and scrapes that occur due to the wood's naturally softer makeup. If the shine is a bit too much, a very light 0000 steel wool buff can dull the finish a bit or a bit of wax can shine it up if desired. I think the result was well worth the small effort as my carbine's stock now has great depth, added color, and really helps make the rifles look fine. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/DSCN2837.jpg The added color and shine even helps bring out the colors of the case hardening look on the receiver of my rifle. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v726/Coloradoglocker/DSCN2843.jpg Both of mine now get comments at the range and many people who've asked me about them have successfully tried it out themselves. It sure beats stripping down to bare wood, staining them, and then finishing them again. For the finish, I'd try another coat as your wood might just be dryer than mine. I use WATCO on a lot of home projects and sometimes it needs a second coat. As to the case hardening, I don't know how to do it but I'm sure it involves taking the rifle completely apart, including removing the barrel. |
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