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Posted: 12/13/2010 12:19:52 PM EDT
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Anyone have experience with setting a safe against a basement foundation wall, anchoring it to the floor, and then, ...here it is... forming and pouring reinforced concrete around the two exposed sides and the top?
This would add security and fire resistance. It would be much more difficult to breach the sides of the safe. The concrete would add thermal mass and absorb heat. It would work especially well in a narrow room such as a cellar. |
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If you want thermal resistance, just use fire rated sheetrock.
That's what "fire proofs" safes anyway. As to security, safes are most commonly attacked and breached via the face. The usual attack being to pry the door open. You would be well served to position your safe in a place that affords no room to pull back on a pry bar, particularly against the non-hinge side. This is assuming that it's already securely fastened to the floor and can't be tipped or simply carried away intact. |
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get some cemet blocks. put a rebar stick in each hole. fill with concrete. cheap, no molding, then u can stucco it.
just take your time with the pouring and use round gravel. keep mixing it before pouring. use like a coffee can. gravel should be medium to small size. if you place 6 inches or a foot pass the door. will make pry attacks almost impossible (I think). I could be wrong. |
Yea its a Stack On 
I tried my crow bar and could not get a great bite, the only thing that worked was my flat bar, it felt like I could bend the bolts if I was serious about it. Here are some pics with the carpet door off, after seeing the inside I need to get a real safe. 
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id be afraid of sombody who knows how to use a hive tool(what grandpa calls it, sorta like a flat crow bar, with a sharply hooked base at one end) or simply dragging your safe away from wall and attacking, the attacker isnt going to be nice they will prob just kick it over (guns and all) and then drag/kick it over to middle of room, and go to town.
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Quoted:
get some cemet blocks. put a rebar stick in each hole. fill with concrete. cheap, no molding, then u can stucco it. just take your time with the pouring and use round gravel. keep mixing it before pouring. use like a coffee can. gravel should be medium to small size. if you place 6 inches or a foot pass the door. will make pry attacks almost impossible (I think). I could be wrong. Thats what id do. Much easier than pouring a form. Just create a little fitted inlet for it. For extra security you could make it so that the safe is even slightly recessed (frenched) as to take away even more angles from a pry bar attack. |
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id be afraid of sombody who knows how to use a hive tool(what grandpa calls it, sorta like a flat crow bar, with a sharply hooked base at one end) or simply dragging your safe away from wall and attacking, the attacker isnt going to be nice they will prob just kick it over (guns and all) and then drag/kick it over to middle of room, and go to town. Yea that's why you need to bolt them to the floor (which mine is). |
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There is no XXXXXXXX on those sentry safes, so you just XXXXXXXXXXX and it will open. I did it on one in about 0:36 seconds. And we all appreciate you posting this information on the internet.  Buy a cheap safe and know that its going to be easy to break into. Hell even if they don't know that you can just beat on the lock of these then they are really easy to open with a pry bar or a fire axe. |
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I agree with you bsf. For 5 or 6 hundred bucks (the cost of some of these cheaper gun safes) you could build a pretty substantial fire rated closet that could store your tools and firearms which would leave a crook wondering what was behind the steel fire door with a deadbolt on it and whether it would be worth the time and effort to break into.
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And we all appreciate you posting this information on the internet. I never understand this response. The information is out there, the bad guys have it... the good guys should have it too. You'd think that would be the case. Why limit useful information to the thieves only ? |
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