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Lee APP tips and tricks (Page 12 of 12)
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:My input, related to the shuttle: The plastic of the fixed part that the shuttle slides on gets dirty, and it can make the shuttle drag. I tried waxing the fixed part, using a block of canning wax and polishing it in, but that left enough residue that the dirt stuck to it - I think paste wax would do the same thing. So I cleaned it with thoroughly with alcohol and a tooth brush to get rid of the wax. If I'm depriming dirty range brass (223/556) I will stop after several hundred and use a toothbrush to wipe the rail clean and the under / inner of the shuttle. Then I take a small dab of silicone spray lube on a rag and wipe lightly on all those surfaces. It works good for a while, but then it actually works better when it gets dry again and a little dirty, just before it won't slide again  This entire rig has been used and used hard and it keeps plugging along. I still cuss it sometimes, but would not be without it. As for the spring dangling, I cut the thumb off an old rubber glove and slide it down over the decapper pin with the spring raised up all tucked inside the thumb. Occasionally I'll want to decap a single piece or two and don't want to hook up the spring, but the spring hits the lid on the primer catch can and makes a bad noise on the downstroke! |
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Originally Posted By Rimneck: Here's my contribution to this thread: Don't leave the spring hooked to the shuttle when not in use. When the handle is up it puts tension on the spring and shuttle enough to torque it cockeyed. If you leave it like that for weeks / months it bends it up semi-permanently and it won't slide back and forth as good. YMMV just a guess on my part, i think the plastic more likely to acquire a set than a steel spring |
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Originally Posted By RareBear:just a guess on my part, i think the plastic more likely to acquire a set than a steel spring Roger that, my wording may sound assbackwards. Basically, the plastic doohickey gets bent and won't slide if you leave the spring hooked and handle in the up position for say 6 months.
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Originally Posted By Rimneck: Here's my contribution to this thread: Don't leave the spring hooked to the shuttle when not in use. When the handle is up it puts tension on the spring and shuttle enough to torque it cockeyed. If you leave it like that for weeks / months it bends it up semi-permanently and it won't slide back and forth as good. YMMV Attached File You'll also notice the loops at each end of the spring are almost 90 degrees to each other before being installed. It's important to install the spring with only enough twist to align the loops, otherwise it can bind on the plastic hook on the shuttle. Attached File |
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Going to start reading through this thread. I went through my brass stash and have a couple thousand 5.56 and 7.62 with crimped primer pockets; too much to do with the hand reamer. The APP deluxe seemed like the best, most cost effective tool for the job. I'll also use it to mass decap precision stuff that I we tumble so that is a bonus vs. a super swage or the like. |
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| I decapped and sized lots of 38 special and 9mm with this thing. The amount of grit dirt and crap that gets out when you decap a pistol round is incredible. This made a really big difference in running my Dillon SDB, so much cleaner and less stoppages and cleanup. |
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So l have been plugging along with this new Lee app deluxe getting comfortable with depriming on it despite some of its quirks. Overall it has been a worthwhile purchase. So now l want to try to use it to swage 556 and 300 blackout primer pockets. I bought the swagging kit for it, but before l follow the Lee instructions l figure l will ask here first how to setup the Lee app deluxe to do this as l recently learned the hard way that Lee's instructions can lead to problems. Thanks Mav |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: I never could get my APP to remove all of the crimp. My student got his to work, I'm at a loss here. The scant instructions didn't work for me. Damn that sucks. Yeah the instructions are a joke. Maybe blowout has some good suggestions. |
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Originally Posted By meistermash: Ehh well it's Lee. We may have to modify something to get it to work. The bulge busters, I should just toss them. What I really used for 380 was an upside down crimp die with no guts. I haven't even tried the pocket swagger yet. The Lee FCD with the insides removed is what you use to bulge bust. You need to get the APP bulge bust kit that has bushings that guide the case into the die body. I've easily bulge busted over 50k cases on the APP. 9mm, 40sw, 45acp, 223. I've also done a couple thousand 380 auto. Can't recall which die was used for those off hand, but I could check notes if it's something that would help you. I bulge bust all auto pistol and 223 cases every time they get loaded. |
Well you went over a bunch of this stuff already it seems.  Guess I didn't know those peices in the bulge buster kit were just guides. Which explaines why I didn't need a new longer pusher. When I was doing 380, I just ran the die into the bottom and used a pusher from some other bullet sizing die. Used a bit of lube. I did not size first. Must have used a regular die lock ring bushing thinger because the included one doesn't thread all the way up or threw. (seems thats room for the guide dealeo) Most brass i use is my own. That means it doesn't really have a bulge. But this bag of used 380 brass I just did was truly epic. I could start a head stamp collection from it. I suppose 1 or 1\2 box per ravin/lorcin/Jennings. Noticed this with 32acp brass as well. The chambers are cut loose for feeding. When I size strange 32 acp brass i trimmed a shell holder way thin to get more case in the die. 
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Originally Posted By meistermash: Well you went over a bunch of this stuff already it seems. Guess I didn't know those peices in the bulge buster kit were just guides. - Yep Which explaines why I didn't need a new longer pusher. When I was doing 380, I just ran the die into the bottom and used a pusher from some other bullet sizing die. - Perfect Used a bit of lube. - I lube cases before FL sizing and just leave it on for the BB follow up. I did not size first. - definitely want to size first. Too much force needed otherwise which strains the press and your arm. Must have used a regular die lock ring bushing thinger because the included one doesn't thread all the way up or threw. (seems thats room for the guide dealeo) - you got it. Most brass i use is my own. That means it doesn't really have a bulge. But this bag of used 380 brass I just did was truly epic. I could start a head stamp collection from it. I suppose 1 or 1\2 box per ravin/lorcin/Jennings. Noticed this with 32acp brass as well. The chambers are cut loose for feeding. When I size strange 32 acp brass i trimmed a shell holder way thin to get more case in the die. One of the unexpected benefits of BBing is tightening up primer pockets. I tried filing a 9mm shellholder down years ago to get more of the case to fit inside the sizing die, but the thing was made of tool steel. I gave up and went to BBing on a single stage... then the APP came out.  |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: I never could get my APP to remove all of the crimp. My student got his to work, I'm at a loss here. The scant instructions didn't work for me. Maybe it's a QC issue with your swage kit. I really haven't used my app except playing around. I just set up the swage kit though. I adjusted the bottom adjustment for the swage punch till it came to a hard stop with a case inserted. Then raised the handle and adjusted it 1/4 turn. That wasn't enough but one more quarter turn and it was perfect as far as the pockets. What wasn't perfect is a random case here or there got stuck on the rod that holds them down. I ran all my brass through an expansion mandrel. The rod isn't the smoothest. I just turned the rod down and now it works perfectly. I found a way to effectively wet tumble lube off which I like to do because the pins peen the case mouths nice and smooth. So my brass has no lubricity at all. Had it been dry tumbled maybe the rod would have not stuck but I wanted less steps processing 12k pieces of brass. I am going to swage for an hour or two later. All I did was set it up and test it. Im curious if I can get through all my brass without breaking a part lol. |
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I did a hundred cases and a few weren't quite good. I used those and adjusted it to swage a bit more till all of them were passive with my go gauge. I swage all of it again at the new setting. Then a couple hundred more. My biggest issue is with the 3d adapter that connects the case feed spring to my dillon case feeder. Cases get staggered in it or something to make them stuck. It just takes a poke with a small screwdriver to clear but it's pretty damn annoying. Im going to see if tge guy makes a smaller case funnel adapter or whatever that piece is called. It feeds cases ok. Not perfect. I definitely always have my eyes fixed on the cases dropping. If I don't go to fast I barely have issues. It's definitely beats using the drill method. |
| I just checked ebay and i bought the magnum version because he said it would work fine with smaller cases or he hadn't had complaints but I think that version was pretty new. So I messaged him in our previous conversation asking if I can buy the standard adapter. Hopefully that will fix my biggest annoyance. |
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Finally got my APP unboxed and mounted, installed the swage kit and tested it on some 5.56 and 7.62. Took more than the 1/4 turn the directions suggested to get the whole crimp removed but it seems to work well. The press feels a bit flimsy but for this and depriming it should do the job. Next up is to see how to setup the case feeder and figure out how well it works at bulk depriming. |
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Originally Posted By Mblades: Finally got my APP unboxed and mounted, installed the swage kit and tested it on some 5.56 and 7.62. Took more than the 1/4 turn the directions suggested to get the whole crimp removed but it seems to work well. The press feels a bit flimsy but for this and depriming it should do the job. Next up is to see how to setup the case feeder and figure out how well it works at bulk depriming. Takes some tinkering to get the feeder height correct and choose the correct shuttle height. Then there is the adjustment to get the "claw" to open just right. Not hard, just some adjusting. I use mine 98% of the time for depriming, and bullet sizing the other 2%. Sized around 1k of 200 gr RN at .358, took about an hour. Had 2 bobbles because I didn't cycle the handle fully and a new bullet was not picked up. So runs smoothly if operator pays attention. On the swager. I adjusted the shaft down and down, just never enough swage. 
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: How it runs in depriming is not 100%, but it's a lot faster than any single stage. Takes some tinkering to get the feeder height correct and choose the correct shuttle height. Then there is the adjustment to get the "claw" to open just right. Not hard, just some adjusting. I use mine 98% of the time for depriming, and bullet sizing the other 2%. Sized around 1k of 200 gr RN at .358, took about an hour. Had 2 bobbles because I didn't cycle the handle fully and a new bullet was not picked up. So runs smoothly if operator pays attention. On the swager. I adjusted the shaft down and down, just never enough swage. Originally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By Mblades: Finally got my APP unboxed and mounted, installed the swage kit and tested it on some 5.56 and 7.62. Took more than the 1/4 turn the directions suggested to get the whole crimp removed but it seems to work well. The press feels a bit flimsy but for this and depriming it should do the job. Next up is to see how to setup the case feeder and figure out how well it works at bulk depriming. Takes some tinkering to get the feeder height correct and choose the correct shuttle height. Then there is the adjustment to get the "claw" to open just right. Not hard, just some adjusting. I use mine 98% of the time for depriming, and bullet sizing the other 2%. Sized around 1k of 200 gr RN at .358, took about an hour. Had 2 bobbles because I didn't cycle the handle fully and a new bullet was not picked up. So runs smoothly if operator pays attention. On the swager. I adjusted the shaft down and down, just never enough swage. Thanks for the info, I don’t mind if it’s a bit of a pain to get set up if it works. A couple bobbles over a thousand rounds is pretty good. Right now I use my Co-ax for depriming and I like that I can use the large jaws and don’t need to change shell holders for different cases. It’s a pretty good system but the lack of case feeder slows things down. |
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Originally Posted By Mblades: Thanks for the info, I don't mind if it's a bit of a pain to get set up if it works. A couple bobbles over a thousand rounds is pretty good. Right now I use my Co-ax for depriming and I like that I can use the large jaws and don't need to change shell holders for different cases. It's a pretty good system but the lack of case feeder slows things down. You drop a handful of cases toward the edge of the bowl and gently rotate feed tubes/feeder and cases drop in. (easy to get upside down cases if you dump cases in the center of the bowl). Contine until all 4 tubes are full. You get a few upside down cases in 9mm, a few in 45 ACP, and none in longer cases like 357/44 mag, and 223. Then when first tube is empty rotate to the next tube and continue. When you get some time in, when you can see no more cases in the feed tube (one or two in the black plastic feeder you can't see), that's the time to rotate the feeder. and you never run out of cases. Another technique is keep you right hand cycling the press handle while the left hand drops a handfull of cases in the feeder, then shake to feed cases in the feed tubes. Tubes never run dry this way. All this while your right hand never stopped cycling the press handle. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: I never could get my APP to remove all of the crimp. My student got his to work, I'm at a loss here. The scant instructions didn't work for me. I bought mine used, the guy wanted to upgrade to a 1050, and had all the bugs worked out. I've only run 50 cases through it, but it does a beautiful job of removing the crimp. |
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I had the chance to use mine a bit yesterday. My bench was fairly level but I decided to make it as close to perfect as possible. I repositioned the case feeder about half an inch back. I felt like it could be centered a smidge better. I made like a paper funnel that makes my case feeding adapter narrower until I get the standard size adapter (I already talked to the guy). Having the cases not get jammed in the adapter before the spring tube seemed to somehow make it feed a little better as well. After a few hundred cases though that paper wore out and cases would jam but less frequently at least. I tweaked the jaws after all these changes a bit more. After all that I got feeding to probably 95%. I can usually see a case drop wrong and correct it. I will occasionally not catch it somehow and it spits out kinda to the side. After paying attention I realized I could jut put a 5 gallon bucket in just the right spot on the floor and none of the misfeeds will land into it. All of the swaged brass lands in but anything else lands on the floor. That's a very small amount as i catch most of them and correct them. I ordered some 3d printed jaws and case deflector that is supposed to fix feeding issues. Mine is very manageable but I hope to get it where i can just fly through brass without having to correct stuff. |
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Originally Posted By SG55xdude: I had the chance to use mine a bit yesterday. My bench was fairly level but I decided to make it as close to perfect as possible. I repositioned the case feeder about half an inch back. I felt like it could be centered a smidge better. I made like a paper funnel that makes my case feeding adapter narrower until I get the standard size adapter (I already talked to the guy). Having the cases not get jammed in the adapter before the spring tube seemed to somehow make it feed a little better as well. After a few hundred cases though that paper wore out and cases would jam but less frequently at least. I tweaked the jaws after all these changes a bit more. After all that I got feeding to probably 95%. I can usually see a case drop wrong and correct it. I will occasionally not catch it somehow and it spits out kinda to the side. After paying attention I realized I could jut put a 5 gallon bucket in just the right spot on the floor and none of the misfeeds will land into it. All of the swaged brass lands in but anything else lands on the floor. That's a very small amount as i catch most of them and correct them. I ordered some 3d printed jaws and case deflector that is supposed to fix feeding issues. Mine is very manageable but I hope to get it where i can just fly through brass without having to correct stuff. Post a link please, sounds interesting. |
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Post a link please, sounds interesting. https://www.ebay.com/itm/305010992652 |
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Ordered, thanks.
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Ok great update. The new case deflector and new jaws/feed pawls make a night and day difference. I prefer to watch tv with processing and listen to the radio or podcasts when actually loading. I could not watch tv running the app. Now I don't have to watch the feeding like a hawk. I can just work the handle at a fast steady rate and chug along without a single misfeed at all. So im watching tv to swage the rest. 100% do recommend   |
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Originally Posted By SG55xdude: Ok great update. The new case deflector and new jaws/feed pawls make a night and day difference. I prefer to watch tv with processing and listen to the radio or podcasts when actually loading. I could not watch tv running the app. Now I don't have to watch the feeding like a hawk. I can just work the handle at a fast steady rate and chug along without a single misfeed at all. So im watching tv to swage the rest. 100% do recommend https://i.postimg.cc/x8mDntHQ/20260403-093243.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/TYrMsNf5/20260403-093247.jpg My feed lips came in yesterday. Got nothing to process however. |
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| Yes .223. I can post a pic with a case later. I was just trying to show the installed parts. Swaging .223 is probably going to be 90% what I do with my app. I had to tweak stuff a little but very manageable and really speeds up the rate I can crank through brass. |
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I added the eBay kit in Feb 2025 to help with 223 cases ejecting out of the jaws when cycling. Cases go flying causing me to stop and make sure an unprocessed case didn't land in the finished case bin, then search for where the second case landed. It's my biggest complaint with the APP. The taller jaws helped, but didn't eliminate the issue completely. Slowing the cycle rate helps but it still happens. As far as I can tell, the jaws are closing prior to the new case dropping all the way to the rail the transfer shuttle rides on. Backing out the screw all the way on the back of the shuttle mechanism isn't enough to get the jaws to stay open long enough at the last maybe 1/16"or so when the case drops. More effort required to figure this out.  |
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Originally Posted By Blowout: I added the eBay kit in Feb 2025 to help with 223 cases ejecting out of the jaws when cycling. Cases go flying causing me to stop and make sure an unprocessed case didn't land in the finished case bin, then search for where the second case landed. It's my biggest complaint with the APP. The taller jaws helped, but didn't eliminate the issue completely. Slowing the cycle rate helps but it still happens. As far as I can tell, the jaws are closing prior to the new case dropping all the way to the rail the transfer shuttle rides on. Backing out the screw all the way on the back of the shuttle mechanism isn't enough to get the jaws to stay open long enough at the last maybe 1/16"or so when the case drops. More effort required to figure this out. The bolt that you can adjust the height and position of the case feeding on is pretty crucial. Make sure you have it adjusted so there's just enough room for .223 cases to clear. To much room and you get more misfeeds. To little room and occasionally a case doesn't clear and on the upstroke it binds and then all of a sudden it will launch that piece plus the piece on the ram literally across the room. Also make sure your bench is level. |
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Originally Posted By SG55xdude: The bolt that you can adjust the height and position of the case feeding on is pretty crucial. Make sure you have it adjusted so there's just enough room for .223 cases to clear. To much room and you get more misfeeds. To little room and occasionally a case doesn't clear and on the upstroke it binds and then all of a sudden it will launch that piece plus the piece on the ram literally across the room. Also make sure your bench is level. I guess ram isn't the correct term. The place brass sits whether there's a shell holder or not. |
Lee APP tips and tricks (Page 12 of 12)
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