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Posted: 5/2/2017 6:53:06 PM EDT
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I can't keep the shellplate from tightening down as I turn it through the stations. I can't start any looser, the cases will fall out. It's very aggravating and keeps me from getting in a rhythm.
Is there anything I can put on the bolt to keep it from tightening? Powdered graphite maybe? |
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Quoted:
You are tightening the set screw on left side of ram, right? It locks the bolt. |
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Attached File Put the handle about half way up, look for a set screw on the shaft a couple of inches down on the left side, tighten that when you have the plate right where you want it. |
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Quoted:
I found if it tighten it down too tight but not so tight you can't turn the shell plate, it makes .223 cases hard to eject, they bind on the ejector wire at station 4  That set screw is built pretty well though. I will be honest. I have forgotten to loosen it a couple times and just started turning the bolt out. It's habit from my LNL years. |
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Quoted:
I have not mastered the tightness of the bolt yet. Is there a rule of thumb? Like tighten till it can't move than back off 1/4 turn? Something like that would be helpful. Or maybe it's a little shellplate dependent. That set screw is built pretty well though. I will be honest. I have forgotten to loosen it a couple times and just started turning the bolt out. It's habit from my LNL years. Too much wobble and cases won't enter the dies all the time and snag. And no one wants a shell plate that's too hard to turn because it binds. Setting it is easy: 1. loosen set screw 2. finger tighten the big bolt clockwise until the shell plate is hard to move 3. back off 1/2 a turn 4. rotate shell plate and it'll turn the big bolt clockwise a bit, just as it starts to bind, back off a wee bit, which in turn backs off the big bolt as well 5. tighten set screw |
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When you get that optimal tightness, the shell holder should rotate readily, but should distinctly click into place at each station. The shells should end up at each station flat against the bottom and not wobbly. As stated takes a little trial and error in adjusting the center bolt, then locking the set screw.
Also, a few years ago I replaced the ball bearing and spring after many years of use and wear, that helped. |
| The thickness of the rim of various brands of brass will cause issues especially in handgun rounds and may impact rifle rounds. . I noticed it a lot, especially when loading some PMC headstamped 45 Auto Rim brass it was way thicker than Remington it would cause the shellpate to bind up. |
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Quoted:
The thickness of the rim of various brands of brass will cause issues especially in handgun rounds and may impact rifle rounds. . I noticed it a lot, especially when loading some PMC headstamped 45 Auto Rim brass it was way thicker than Remington it would cause the shellpate to bind up. A tight primer pocket causing a primer to be seated a bit high will cause the bind as well. I'm having this battle with old CCI 400 SR primers in brass. Don't recall this issue with newer CCI's |
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Maybe this is why
http://www.cci-ammunition.com/products/primers/primers.aspx?id=32 They are more sensitive and easier to seat than older CCI primers, and engineered for smooth feeding in automated equipment. |
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Once I have everything set in the press, I load all 4 stations with brass.
Then I tighten the big bolt until the plate won't move; back off 1/4 turn and the turn the shell plate clockwise 1 station. At that point, I snug up the set-screw. That gives me free movement and sets the plate for the brass I'm using. Every now and then a piece of brass with a thicker rim will bind up somewhat, but not enough to slow down reloading. Another trick is to get a thrust bearing kit- you van find them in several different places. |
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