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Posted: 2/7/2017 12:59:29 AM EDT
| Does anyone know of a good manual for black powder cartridge loading? I've looked at several options but most seem to focus mostly on muzzle loading and don't have much info on cartridge loading. I do have a Lyman user's guide but not really any info on cartridge loads. Mainly interested in doing some .357 loads. |
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I loaded some 357 loads with black powder.
Used a 158 gr SWC lubed with black powder lube. (don't use a smokeless lube unless you like leading, BTDT) Case was filled to the top with 3X BP and compressed when the bullet was seated. Shot 6, made a mess of my Security Six. Last 2 rounds I had to help the cylinder to turn when cocking there was so much fouling. 
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What you need is this: Lymann Cast Bullet Handbook No 357 BP loads. The only BP loads are for the antique cowboy rounds. Just smokeless for even the 45-70. |
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I loaded some 357 loads with black powder. Used a 158 gr SWC lubed with black powder lube. (don't use a smokeless lube unless you like leading, BTDT) Case was filled to the top with 3X BP and compressed when the bullet was seated. Shot 6, made a mess of my Security Six. Last 2 rounds I had to help the cylinder to turn when cocking there was so much fouling. You can compress it that much? I was thinking of just filling a bit above where the bullet would seat for some compression. Did you crimp? I was going to use plated 158 gr SWC. I have triple F goex. |
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OP, this manual below is written by the experts in this field. Just saw you're interested in .357, so the references below are not for handgun, but the principles in successful BP cartridge loading are similar. For limited shooting in handgun cartridges, you might just be better off with a black powder manual like Lyman's written by Sam Fadala, chap 19. https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/273/1/BOOK-LBPH
http://www.shopspg.net/SPG-Lubricants-BP-Cartridge-Reloading-Primer-books-spglubeBP.htm Also here is a link I found in looking: http://bpcr.net/site_docs-results_schedules/documents/bp_cartridge_reloading_dick_trenk.htm |
| Never leave any air space in the cartridge. Some prefer to compress the powder then seat the bullet, deforms the bullet less and may be more consistent Some prefer a wad between the powder and bullet. After shooting, cleaning and dry the cases well, the corrosion can destroy them. |
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Don't bother buying a manual because this is something you're only going to do once. We've all tried it BTDT and had to clean up the mess afterwards.
Just fill the case up and seat and crimp. You could use a wad if you wanted just make sure there is NO air space. It has to be compressed, a little, a lot, it doesn't matter. After you are done getting it out of your system hold the gun under the hot water faucet and rinse that stuff out ! Water works best, it dissolves the corrosive salts and flushes them out. Then clean the black, greasy mess that's left and re-oil everything. Have fun LOL ! |
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You can compress it that much? I was thinking of just filling a bit above where the bullet would seat for some compression. Did you crimp? I was going to use plated 158 gr SWC. I have triple F goex. No air gap....BP is different from smokeless powder. |
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Opened up my copy. No 357 BP loads. The only BP loads are for the antique cowboy rounds. Just smokeless for even the 45-70. Quoted:
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What you need is this: Lymann Cast Bullet Handbook No 357 BP loads. The only BP loads are for the antique cowboy rounds. Just smokeless for even the 45-70. <doh!> just saw that they were all smokeless powders... 
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I would suggest going with Trail Boss or similar I'm not really trying to make low power loads. Just want to make a lot of smoke and use up the BP I have. Like someone mentioned above, it's probably a one time thing to just try it and then realize it's more hassle than it's worth. |
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I'm not really trying to make low power loads. Just want to make a lot of smoke and use up the BP I have. Like someone mentioned above, it's probably a one time thing to just try it and then realize it's more hassle than it's worth. |
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Still have a few BP .50-70 rounds down in the ammo box.
I have an 1866 2nd Allin rifle. It makes a nice loud 'thock' when it hits the berm at a 100 yard range. 450 grains of lead. It always attracts attention at the range. The rifling in the barrel looks great. I even have the correct bayonet for it. I would never run smokeless through that thing. I finally made up a die just for compressing the BP using all brass. I use a thin cardboard wad to separate the lubed bullet from the BP. Had to make an arch punch to make wads also. |
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I emailed Goex to ask a few questions and they pretty much didn't answer any including the most important to me which concerned the safety of using 30 year old powder.
As for loading, they did give me this info in case it's useful to anyone. Loading cartridges with black powder is easy. First and most important rule - There can be no airspace in the case.
Lay a sized and primed case on the table in front of you with the case mouth pointed away from you. Place the bullet next to the case so that the case mouth is centered in the crimp groove on the bullet. Mark the case at the base of the bullet. Move forward toward the case mouth 1/8" and draw another line on the case. This is your fill line. Fill the case with powder to the second mark you made. Use this amount to adjust your adjustable black powder measure. You can use an over powder wad if you want but you really do not need to in this small pistol case. Use a stout roll crimp and a magnum primer. |
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To clarify on above points, black powder itself does not require any crimp at all. Many single shot shooters have proven this. Revolvers do cause u dont need bullets falling out and jamming cylinder. Use soft lead, black powder compatible lube. Fill case as mentioned above (1/8" over seated bullet bottom) and you are done.
I have found the 3 manuals I have to be less than helpful. |
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I emailed Goex to ask a few questions and they pretty much didn't answer any including the most important to me which concerned the safety of using 30 year old powder. As for loading, they did give me this info in case it's useful to anyone. Quoted:
I emailed Goex to ask a few questions and they pretty much didn't answer any including the most important to me which concerned the safety of using 30 year old powder. As for loading, they did give me this info in case it's useful to anyone. Loading cartridges with black powder is easy. First and most important rule - There can be no airspace in the case.
Lay a sized and primed case on the table in front of you with the case mouth pointed away from you. Place the bullet next to the case so that the case mouth is centered in the crimp groove on the bullet. Mark the case at the base of the bullet. Move forward toward the case mouth 1/8" and draw another line on the case. This is your fill line. Fill the case with powder to the second mark you made. Use this amount to adjust your adjustable black powder measure. You can use an over powder wad if you want but you really do not need to in this small pistol case. Use a stout roll crimp and a magnum primer. I didn't use a wad or magnum primers. Mag primers is a good idea. Your 30 year old powder is fine if it's still black in color and not wet. Had to get the old "keep your powder dry " joke in. 
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You need a BP lube on the bullet or under it as a grease cookie. I experimented with a moly coated bullet in .45 Scofield with 2F BP. Lots of leading after 30 rounds.
The lube keeps the fouling soft from shot to shot. If you are experimenting get some BP lube or make it. Recipes are out there. You can cut out the lube cookies when they cool with a cartridge case. It is a lot of work. get Springfield Slims bullets. Big Lube Boolits BP shooting is a BLAST. Thunder and smoke. Cleanup is not that hard. If you use Moosemilk (10% Ballistol and water) you do not have to get the pistol back to USMC drill sergeant cleanliness. Boiling water works too but be sure to lube. The moosemilk leaves behind an oil film after drying. I been shooting BP in pistols, shotguns, and rifles for over 10 years and no rust. |
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Yeah, I wasn't sure about the primer so good to know a mag is recommended. I'm planning to use my x-treme plated bullets rather than bare lead. Any reason to think those would be a poor choice? 
Plated 357 black powder round, huh? Keep in mind that when BP burns, a huge percentage of the powder stays in solid form... Like 60% or more I believe. Lots of that stays in your gun. Most no doubt exits behind bullet. Its a huge mess. I love it. Most dont. But I wouldnt think about doing it without being a little more "authentic". No real benefit to BP. Thats why it was replaced. I know many have used powder coated bullets. I am not sure about plated bullets. I would think pressure would be higher but no doubt a modern 357 could handle it. But dont take my word for it... BTW, I doubt you will find any BP manual that would give you a load for plated bullets. If they did, they would no doubt be the joke of BP shooters across this great country. But do tell us your results. |
| Wasn't really going for authentic or anything and my stainless blackhawk is a far cry from a SAA. I've never messed with cast bullets and don't have any. I do have the BP and looking for a reason to use it up. Maybe I can color the bullets with a silver sharpie and then no one will laugh at me. |
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