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Posted: 11/12/2016 4:34:45 PM EDT
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Shooting coated bullets in 9mm Canik TP9 SA. Shooting moderate loads with 115 gr Hi Tek coated bullets. Getting lead streaks (or something) in the second half of barrel to the muzzle in the grooves.
I have the barrel soaking in Butch's Bore Shine. Already brushed it quite a bit with a copper brush. Will FMJ bullets clean it out? Any ideas? Would KG-12 get the lead out? |
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go to the dollar store and get some copper kitchen scrubbing pads
make sure they are real copper, and not copper plated steel snip off a piece and wrap it around an old bore brush it will clean the lead out quickly what kind of powder are you using ? what crimp die ...lee factory ? |
| I've been having some issues. Thread is here. My issue relates to silencers, but there have been a number of good responses, many of which could apply to your situation. |
| Some people claim that using titegroup with Hitek can cause problems. They cite the relatively high temperature burn of titegroup. I cannot say I have had many troubles with leading and titegroup with hitek, but I believe some manufacturers have cautioned against using it. |
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Pulled some bullets, the coating is completely intact all around. Dollar Store only had coated steel mesh, no steel is going inside my barrels.
I haven't had stubborn leading issues in any caliber for a very long time, years ago with .45 ACP. I can switch to another powder in the 9mm, meanwhile may try some FMJ loads to see if it will peel off the lead. Some say that's bad, but as I recall now worked fine in my ,45 ACP years ago, no harm to barrels. Will find a way out of this without too much complexity, as somehow I did with my .45 loads, Don't have time to screw with lead deposits.. Other posts have been helpful with ideas, Saw a post about mixing hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar and soaking for 2-3 minutes, anyone ever heard of this concoction? |
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I've read the peroxide mix is used to clean supressors. Figure it would work on barrels too.
I was able to find pure copper scrubbing pads at Wally World. "Domestix" brand and it says pure copper on the box. IIRC it was under $2 and will last many years. It really works! Just wrap a few strands of the copper pad around an old bore brush and push it through a few times. Lead is gone or mostly gone and is quick, relatively clean and no chemicals other than your bore cleaner of choice to follow up with. |
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Quoted:
Pulled some bullets, the coating is completely intact all around. Dollar Store only had coated steel mesh, no steel is going inside my barrels. I haven't had stubborn leading issues in any caliber for a very long time, years ago with .45 ACP. I can switch to another powder in the 9mm, meanwhile may try some FMJ loads to see if it will peel off the lead. Some say that's bad, but as I recall now worked fine in my ,45 ACP years ago, no harm to barrels. Will find a way out of this without too much complexity, as somehow I did with my .45 loads, Don't have time to screw with lead deposits.. Other posts have been helpful with ideas, Saw a post about mixing hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar and soaking for 2-3 minutes, anyone ever heard of this concoction? "The mix" will clean up lead just fine, but be damn careful with the aftermath. It is very toxic and can be absorbed through your skin. Lead Acetate |
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This is the answer. Scrubbing the barrel when it's dry will remove most of the lead, enough you can get back shooting. Soak if it just has to be super clean. Different powders will make a difference but once you learn to use the brillo cleaning is no big deal. I suspect 9mm leads worse than .45 or .40 due to higher pressures. |
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Howdy Danger6. You mentioned you don't like cleaning the lead out, so your solution will be to fix what is causing your leading. I would suggest getting a few pure lead slugs (available from many cast bullet manufacturers) and driving it down your barrel to determine what size bullets you should be buying. I have many 9's I load for and the proper size for each can vary from .356, .357, and even an old Hi Power that takes 9mm sized at .358. If your not getting a proper seal with cast bullets your always going to have the leading issue.
If your using a faster burning powder, try something a little slower. Years ago I moved from Titegroup to Unique. They're not that far apart on the chart, but it did make a difference. Another thing you may try is taking a mild abrasive and polishing your bore. I've heard great things about the Canik, but they are inexpensive and there may be roughly cut rifling in the bore. Smoothing out the bore and getting rid of some of the microscopic burrs that drag lead off as it travels can make a difference too. Cast loads can be put together to shoot as clean as jacketed, but it takes some experimentation to get there. Good luck. |
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I shoot a lot of home cast bullets so I have a Lewis lead removing tool but I have found that most light lead fouling can be removed with solvent and a Hoppe's tornado brush. It does help if you use a solvent that is designed for lead fouling but old #9 does ok too.
Motor |
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Darn. I saw this thread to late to warn you not to do that. Shooting FMJ's after lead just smears the lead into the pores of the metal and corners where the lands meet the grooves.
My brother was having the same problem as you and did the same thing after I warned him not to. I took his barrel to work and put it under the microscope. I could easily see the smeared lead in the grooves and corners of the lands. The lab tech did a swab test, it was positive for lead. I cleaned it out for him with the ChoreBoy scrubber, looked at it under the scope and had the lab test it again. It still tested positive for lead because it was now smeared into the pores but the levels were much lower and it was out of the corners of the grooves. Run an oily patch down your barrel and look at it closely. Any dull areas that show up will be lead streaks because oil will not stick to it. IM me your address, I'll send you one of my ChoreBoy scrubbers if you can't find any. It will last many years. |
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Thanks Forty5Cal, very much appreciate the detailed response. I oiled the barrel and put it under a light with a high magnification glass, cannot see any inconsistencie to the sheen in the grooves, but I do not have a bore scope to really inspect it.
I have Choreboy locations right near me where the pure copper scrubbers are supposedly sold, so may have been looking in the wrong stores. I will use them in future. If for some reason I don't find them there, I will IM you. |
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Quoted:
Shooting coated bullets in 9mm Canik TP9 SA. Shooting moderate loads with 115 gr Hi Tek coated bullets. Getting lead streaks (or something) in the second half of barrel to the muzzle in the grooves. I have the barrel soaking in Butch's Bore Shine. Already brushed it quite a bit with a copper brush. Will FMJ bullets clean it out? Any ideas? Would KG-12 get the lead out? It's best not to shoot FMJ to clean lead. Sometimes it works great, and I've done it myself, but I try not to. Sometimes you end up with some lead ironed into the lands. It's not a serious problem per se except that moisture can get trapped under this impacted lead. Eventually it flakes off and you've got pitting under it. As mentioned, use a real copper scrub brush and elbow grease until it all comes out. The only chemical solutions I've heard of that work are a 50/50 mixture of vinegar and hydrogen peroxide and soaking the barrel in Kroil. I've done the 50/50 vinegar peroxide method. It does seem to loosen the lead and make it come out easier, but I strongly recommend you not use this method. The mixture is somewhat toxic, and will damage the gun's finish if not cleaned off thoroughly. I did it once, and I do not do it anymore. I've never tried the Kroil method but I'm told it works. Kroil is penetrating oil, and left sitting overnight it will work it's way under the lead deposits in the barrel and "lift" them out. If you have really severe leading I'd use Kroil followed by a real copper scrubbing pad. As for the leading, the usual advice applies. Make sure your bullets are sized correctly for your bore, and maybe back off the crimp a little. Coated bullets shouldn't lead but can if your crimp penetrates through the coating layer. |
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Quoted:
Pulled some bullets, the coating is completely intact all around. Dollar Store only had coated steel mesh, no steel is going inside my barrels. I haven't had stubborn leading issues in any caliber for a very long time, years ago with .45 ACP. I can switch to another powder in the 9mm, meanwhile may try some FMJ loads to see if it will peel off the lead. Some say that's bad, but as I recall now worked fine in my ,45 ACP years ago, no harm to barrels. Will find a way out of this without too much complexity, as somehow I did with my .45 loads, Don't have time to screw with lead deposits.. Other posts have been helpful with ideas, Saw a post about mixing hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar and soaking for 2-3 minutes, anyone ever heard of this concoction? Don't do it. The result is poisonous lead acetate. Keep looking for a copper pot pad. |
| I have found This to work about as well as the all copper pads and easier to find too |
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Quoted:
Shooting coated bullets in 9mm Canik TP9 SA. Shooting moderate loads with 115 gr Hi Tek coated bullets. Getting lead streaks (or something) in the second half of barrel to the muzzle in the grooves. I have had this happen myself, because I was shaving the bullets on crimping. Be very careful during seating or crimping so you don't shave the coating. I have the barrel soaking in Butch's Bore Shine. Already brushed it quite a bit with a copper brush. Will FMJ bullets clean it out? Any ideas? Would KG-12 get the lead out? No, FMJs will not usually clean the lead out. Solvents don't really work, either. I have had best luck with a BRAND NEW, stiff bristled, DRY bore brush and several back and forth strokes. The "Chore Boy" method also works well. The lead-away cloths work pretty well, too. |
I have fired many thousands of Xtreme coated (Plated) 9mm and .45ACP bullets through a variety of pistols (including several Glocks) and my bores are shiny and gorgeous.
I clean with Mpro7 and a bore snake (Got tired of brushes and patches) after every range trip. I use Titegroup for 9mm and a combination of Titegroup and WST for .45ACP. Sounds to me like you need to clean your guns more? |
I use this copper mesh for getting out lead, snip off what you need, wrap, use and toss. This roll will last longer than what time I have left . I have no idea how its used in moonshining but If I ever get into distilling my own liquor I'll have it
https://www.amazon.com/Moonshine-Distiller-100-Pure-Copper/dp/B00ED2F0EC/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1481741857&sr=1-1&keywords=copper&tag=vglnk-c102-20&tag=vglnk-c102-20 mesh&tag=vglnk-c102-20 |
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wow ... that's a lotta copper this is what I currently use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006K3XS5A/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_201_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TMMS7JF96HFMT64FQHJ3&tag=vglnk-c102-20 |
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Quoted:
wow ... that's a lotta copper this is what I currently use https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006K3XS5A/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_201_2?ie=UTF8&&tag=vglnk-c102-20;psc=1&refRID=TMMS7JF96HFMT64FQHJ3&tag=vglnk-c102-20 It is. It would be nice to get a roll half that size. The cost of smaller rolls is so close to the price of the bigger roll it's just not worth buying less... I've used the chore boy pads as well. The thing I like most about the copper roll, it's flat and 3" wide. I cut about a 1.5 to 2" strip across the width, wrap around a bore brush, use and toss. Much easier than cutting/unraveling the pads
Edit: If you buy the roll stuff be careful. Some of the listings on amazon are cheaper than what I linked, if you carefully read the description, they are also not 100% pure copper! The stuff I linked is 100%,non magnetic, pure copper
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