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Posted: 9/25/2016 8:57:44 PM EDT
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So I've watched a YouTube videos on shotshell reloading and I think it's something I want to get into.
I haven't bought anything yet. I only have an interest in 12 ga 2 3/4 and .410 2.5 shells. I've looked online and it seems I need two different machines to do this? Anyone with any experience in this subject have any recommendations? Or am I screwed and I will need two machines? Thanks guys. |
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I own an RCBS mini grand reloaded for 12 gauge. It is out of production now. You will need a different machine for different calibers. Mec seems to make very good machines.
Follow the directions as to wad, powder, shot and hull to a tee. Do not mess about with shotgun reloading. The initial sign of over pressure is often a blown up gun. If your recipe calls for ww12a wads use them or a generic that says it replaces these wads. Do NOT get cute with shotshells. |
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If you only want one press I would give the Mec Sizemaster a look. Conversion kits for all gauges from 10 ga. to .410. Only thing is for 2.5" is you need these parts: http://www.ballisticproducts.com/MEC-Short-Kit-410-3-to-2-1_2/productinfo/1309140/
Takes maybe 20 minutes to convert from one gauge to another. Would be nice to have 2 presses ready to load both gauges. The Mec Sizemaster is a little expensive and conversion kits expensive too. I'm sure there are other models or other Mec presses that have conversion kits too but I'm only familiar with the Mec Sizemaster and I load 12 and 20 ga. on it. However with the high cost of lead shot and primers it's become not cost efficient to load shotshells. Still nice to be able to load shotshells if you want or need to. Takes a short learning curve to get the hang of shotshell reloading. I first recommend trying to load only one make of hulls to begin with. Remington Premier type hulls are now the most recommended. |
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Look at a Ponsness 375. It's a single stage press, but it holds 2 sets of dies.
Depending on what you're loading in 12 gauge there will not be a lot of cost savings. Lead is very expensive these days, saving money on target loads is difficult. You may save money loading specialty loads: buckshot, slugs, etc. but I think it would be hard to shoot enough of them to save enough money to offset setting up a loader. .410 target loads (and 28 ga. for that matter) are another story. You can save a fair amount of money and load better shells. One problem though is hulls. Winchester aahs .410 hulls load nicely and you can get several loads out of them - but they are expensive hulls. Most of the other hulls have very short loading life. You have to buy in bulk to save any money. 8lbs of powder, preferably more, 5000 primers, 5000 wads, etc. Lead is the tricky part - If you're buying lead from Cabelas, or BPS, @ $50 a bag, you won't be saving any money. Figure 1 ounce 12 gauge loads will get you 16 boxes of 25 shells per bag. It's less critical on the .410 since you're using 1/2 that amount of shot. One thing to remember about shotgun loads - there is no ' load work up', you load from recipes. Exactly. Seemingly minor component changes can do weird things to pressure. Even simple primer substitutions can change pressure significantly. Worst thing to do as a new loader is go buy a bunch of components because thats what you can find, and then try to make a load out of it. Pick up a couple books on shotshell loading, Lymans is good, and read. Then find a load that does what you want, and then go shopping. Ask lots of questions, just because a load is published doesn't mean it's a good or efficient load, or that the stack height is optimal - it just means it's within pressure specs. |
| I load on a MEC Sizemaster (single stage), its a lot of pulls of the handle, maybe check around at your local Trap club for a used MEC 9000, I've passed on a few great deals on them as guys have moved to the Ponsness. I pay $40 a bag of shot and its debatable whether that saves money over just buying Estates or Top Guns which are plenty good enough to win with. |
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Ok. I knew that 12 gauge wouldn't be much if any cost savings, but I am a shotgunner and it comes to more of the satisfaction of making your own loads.
I waterfowl as well, and the thought of some #1 or B steel shot shells is really appealing. I am on the lookout for a Remington 1100 in .410. I've wanted one forever, and will be buying one before the end of the year. I have a bunch of .410 shells from when I was shooting my judge all the time. Either way, it's not really a target reload situation, estate shells in 8 lead are 6.99 a box in my AOR. Thanks for the replies, I'm still open to all avenues as well. I like the ponsness, but she isn't cheap! Keep the suggestions coming. |
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I load 12, 16, 20, 28 and .410 on individual MEC 600 Jr presses.
I set bowls full of wads and hulls near the press and can load 100 rounds in about 30 minutes once I get a rhythm going and then I have to refill the primer tray. Loading .410 is a bit slower since the press doesn't have a setup for primers and I have to place the primer by hand. For those, I place the primer on the bench top and lightly press it in place and finish seating it in the press. |
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Here's a shotshell reloading link that I have found helpful.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/299960_The_12_Gauge_Shotshell_Reloading_Tutorial___DONE.html primerhead |
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I don't load steel, but I think you have to get the right parts for your loader to load steel. Ponsness and MEC both make loaders for steel shot, I think they sell the parts and pieces you need as well. Steel shot won't shear like lead shot. It's really hard on shot bars/ bushings.
Presses have to be modified or adjusted to accommodate 3" or 3-1/2" shells. You can't just start stuffing 3" or 3-1/2" hulls into your 12 ga loader. |
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