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S1050 up grades (Page 8 of 9)
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
My small swager rod broke on my 1050. I found a fast and friendly brass version that is supposed to be stronger Is it worth it? It's 2x what a factory one is Any feedback? |
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Did some testing loading with the PW... I've had it a while and after initial tinkering had planned on only using it for processing brass, as it certainly doesn't have the elegance of a Mark7, but it seemed wasteful just sitting there not hooked up most of the time. Getting the stroke right is a bit fiddly, but I got it about as close as I can get to a full stroke - before it was short stroking a bit on the downstroke. I added the Level 10 guide rod and removed the spring, which makes a world of different with automation it seems. I also upgraded a few other parts, index roller, bearing plate, etc. I've also got a spare index pawl or two standing by :).
Here's a quick video, haven't decided if I am going to keep it hooked up for loading, but so far seems to be working out well.  Failed To Load Title |
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Originally Posted By 78Staff:
I don't have one, but when/if mine fails I will likely upgrade to the F&F. If you do a lot of swaging it's probably worth it. I've read as long as you keep the Dillon adjusted correctly, ie no flex in the rod at the top of the stroke it should be fine, but there does seem to be more reports of failure than one would expect. Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
My small swager rod broke on my 1050. I found a fast and friendly brass version that is supposed to be stronger Is it worth it? It's 2x what a factory one is Any feedback? May I ask how the rods tend to fail? Bend? Crack? |
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Nice.
I love the guide rod. The set screw that holds the rod on the toolhead doesn't work so great (kind of useless). The threads strip in the rod so the set screw just falls out. I left it out altogether. It stays on the toolhead without it. I have a lot of toolheads but just two of the guide rods so I swap it out each time. No big deal. Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Did some testing loading with the PW... I've had it a while and after initial tinkering had planned on only using it for processing brass, as it certainly doesn't have the elegance of a Mark7, but it seemed wasteful just sitting there not hooked up most of the time. Getting the stroke right is a bit fiddly, but I got it about as close as I can get to a full stroke - before it was short stroking a bit on the downstroke. I added the Level 10 guide rod and removed the spring, which makes a world of different with automation it seems. I also upgraded a few other parts, index roller, bearing plate, etc. I've also got a spare index pawl or two standing by :). Here's a quick video, haven't decided if I am going to keep it hooked up for loading, but so far seems to be working out well.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJU7fsJnCDs |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
I have the F&F swage rods. I replaced my Dillon swagers for the heck of it to see if it's any better. Haven't noticed a difference to be honest but perhaps I haven't swaged enough. May I ask how the rods tend to fail? Bend? Crack? I noticed the same on the guide rod, the set screw is worthless, just backs right out. I just have one but if I decide to stick with the automated game I will pick up a few more I suspect. Here's a vid of improper swage rod adjustment, which will eventually crack if not corrected. You can also break them on the upstroke if the shellplate fails to advance, ie the pawl get's overly worn, especially when automated.  Dillon 1050 Swage Rod Flexing |
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| Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out. The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will. I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation. They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket. But to be fair that can be caused by other things too. |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
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Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out. The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will. I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation. They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket. But to be fair that can be caused by other things too. I bought the 3 pack and they all work great. |
PSALMS 144-1 Blessed be the Lord my strength, which teacheth my hands to warre, and my fingers to fight:
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Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out. The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will. I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation. They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket. But to be fair that can be caused by other things too. Has the F&F one ever broken on you? Mine broke at the bottem where it thread on. |
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Thanks for this feedback Has the F&F one ever broken on you? Mine broke at the bottem where it thread on. Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Originally Posted By ReefRaider:
Never busted a swager rod. But two have worn out. The F&F rod works, I have one. It will however not put that slight bell in the edge of the primer pocket like the Dillon will. I forget who sells it , but someone makes a primer pocket gauge to check your swaging operation. They note it will not work with the F&F swager rod. I've noticed loading brass that's been processed using the F&F rod that about 1 in 500 primers will get a smudged. From catching the edge of the pocket. But to be fair that can be caused by other things too. Has the F&F one ever broken on you? Mine broke at the bottem where it thread on. I did see a guy bend the adjustment link below the swager. The Dillon rods seem to me like their hit or miss on how hard they are. I think what did one of mine in was doing nickel plated LC 5.56. That stuff was hard on the trimmer blades too. The F&F rod didn't seem to do to well with the 4 crimp staking. Just so you know. |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Thanks for this feedback Has the F&F one ever broken on you? Mine broke at the bottem where it thread on. 
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Thanks guys! I'm a total reloading noob! Sorry for noob questions :) RE: the F&FB completed round funnel, there is a hole on side. Not sure what it's for but if you put a metal screw in it, it will hold the darn thing on the bin arm better. Didnt mention that in my previous review. I ran about 1k 7.62x25 Tok rounds over weekend. All went perfectly down the tube into can. That round is an oddball to run on 1050. 9mm everything except powder funnel (30 carbine). Only issue? The case is too short to engage MBF die. I had to place bullet by hand. 
It would have been impossible using my old PW. The mark7 has a "Single Cycle" feature though. Although I am not sure Mark7 would recommend using it this way. |
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Anyone use a decap sensor like this: https://immortobot.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=133 ? I don't have automation but would like something similar if possible Click on it and post the url in the top box and the name of the link in the bottom box. Or you can paste the url in both boxes. You always want to post hot links, because not many folks will bother with a cold url. Your link made hot using the above method, Immortobot |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Good idea JWBS.
You can easily make one. In my thread here: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/475089_Mark-7-Autodrive-on-Dillon-1050-review---Added-some-some-shut-off-switches-.html you can see how I added a sensor cheaply to my mark 7. Easy enough to wire sensor to piezo buzzer with 9v. In fact, there are examples of using similar sensors and buzzers to detect if the Hornady LNL primer slide is locked back. |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
details? + Dillon low primer alarm(25 bucks) + Soldering gun Not breaking swager rods anymore : priceless When you open the yellow plug end of the immortobot sensor There will be a black and blue wire Black connect to open connection on the Dillon and the blue to the red. Now when a primer fails to pop out it screams at me before I swage into it :) |
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Immortobot de cap sensor(15 bucks) + Dillon low primer alarm(25 bucks) + Soldering gun Not breaking swager rods anymore : priceless When you open the yellow plug end of the immortobot sensor There will be a black and blue wire Black connect to open connection on the Dillon and the blue to the red. Now when a primer fails to pop out it screams at me before I swage into it :) |
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Anyone running a Mr. BulletFeeder In 223 on their 1050? Love it? Worth it? Hate it? Any advice prior to purchasing? |
"Just because you're old, doesn't mean you have to sit in the corner and drool."
George H.W. Bush on his 85th birthday
George H.W. Bush on his 85th birthday
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Originally Posted By 78Staff:
Did some testing loading with the PW... I've had it a while and after initial tinkering had planned on only using it for processing brass, as it certainly doesn't have the elegance of a Mark7, but it seemed wasteful just sitting there not hooked up most of the time. Getting the stroke right is a bit fiddly, but I got it about as close as I can get to a full stroke - before it was short stroking a bit on the downstroke. I added the Level 10 guide rod and removed the spring, which makes a world of different with automation it seems. I also upgraded a few other parts, index roller, bearing plate, etc. I've also got a spare index pawl or two standing by :). Here's a quick video, haven't decided if I am going to keep it hooked up for loading, but so far seems to be working out well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJU7fsJnCDsI'm using zip ties. |
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Originally Posted By Ridgeline: Where did you get that bracket on top of the case feed plunger? I'm using zip ties. Works so much better than zip ties or pipe cleaner, etc :) 
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Originally Posted By NoScoE30:
Hey, Has anybody used any 1050 parts from fast and friendly brass? They spend a good chunk of the text on their website talking trash about Dillon's parts and the material they are made of. I can tell you guys for a fact he is flat out lying about the 1050 "link arm" and "crank arm" being made out of a low grade aluminum casting. The factory stock link arm is made out of 6061 t-6 barstock and CNC machined. He has made new parts out of the exact same material as the Dillon spec, to guessed tolerances, and without the hard anodizing. He also is charging more for the same part from Dillon. There were also prototypes made out of 7075 but they were too brittle. Edit:extra clarification
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Please tell me that all 6.5 gerbil owners aren't as insecure as our resident trolls
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Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Someone local to me is selling a 1050 toolhead Of course he is missing the rachet part on the toolhead How can I ID if it’s a 1050S or 1050R toolhead? |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
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Originally Posted By Hoser: I broke one a few years ago. Ordered a new one and a spare. Luckily I haven't needed the spare. 
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Please tell me that all 6.5 gerbil owners aren't as insecure as our resident trolls
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Mr Bulletfeeder in 223 on a 1050S makes loading a breeze!
Loading tool head: Station 1: Lee decap ( just in case) Station 2: M die / no Swage Station 3: primer Station 4: Powder Station 5: Powder check Station 6: Mr Bulletfeeder Station 7: RCBS combo seat / crimp die Prep tool head: Station 1: Lee decap Station 2: Swage with FF rod Station 5: Resize die Station 6: RT1500 trim |
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Been thinking about retooling one of the .223 tool heads. Station #2 Dillon decapping with expander ball . #3 swag back up die. Adjusted so the die body hits the shell plate. This bottoms out on the plate to eliminate tolerance stacking. Help to give better consistency. #5 swager back up die , body only. Adjusted just like the die in #3. #6 Dillon carbide trimmer die. Maybe with a new trimmer motor. #7 Another swagger die body only. This will also keep the tool head from tipping when it bottoms out . #8. Redding .223 neck sizing die. Adjusted so the die doesn't touch the out side of the neck. It's only purpose is so that the carbide expander passes though the neck. Nice consistent neck tension. |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
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My Max run time for wet tumble is 1:15. Fact is it's more then clean enough at 30 mins. I use 10 lbs of pins to 7 lb of brass.
I have a swager back up rod that's been cut down. The swager back up die can be put into the loading head and adjusted to bell the case mouth. It can then get closed back up with a tapper crimp die. This is used when loading flat based projectiles. At the end of the day optimum neck tension should work with just about everything. My process should be as close as I can get to that. My concern with the tool head set up described above is. The consistency of the brass. Right now I can adjust the headspace and trim length with the turn of a wrench. Doing that while sizing with the trimmer die will take much longer and if correction is needed which most times it is that's not an option. |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
| I recently came into a 1050 on a deal that would make most people angry. However the toolhead compression spring was toast, so I ordered a new one from level 10 innovations. Very happy with this item so far, and the price is barely higher than the factory spring. It also comes with a spiffy and much nicer looking bushing. |
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Originally Posted By Redarts:
I recently came into a 1050 on a deal that would make most people angry. However the toolhead compression spring was toast, so I ordered a new one from level 10 innovations. Very happy with this item so far, and the price is barely higher than the factory spring. It also comes with a spiffy and much nicer looking bushing. |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
If you ever go with an Autodrive, get rid of the spring and use their springless system. At least I think its level 10 that makes it. Just a guide rod. Originally Posted By djryan13:
Originally Posted By Redarts:
I recently came into a 1050 on a deal that would make most people angry. However the toolhead compression spring was toast, so I ordered a new one from level 10 innovations. Very happy with this item so far, and the price is barely higher than the factory spring. It also comes with a spiffy and much nicer looking bushing. |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
|
Originally Posted By justwannabuystuff:
Mr Bulletfeeder in 223 on a 1050S makes loading a breeze! Loading tool head: Station 1: Lee decap ( just in case) Station 2: M die / no Swage Station 3: primer Station 4: Powder Station 5: Powder check Station 6: Mr Bulletfeeder Station 7: RCBS combo seat / crimp die Prep tool head: Station 1: Lee decap Station 2: Swage with FF rod Station 5: Resize die Station 6: RT1500 trim |
"There is a fine line between having balls and being a dumb ass" GB
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
"Machine Gunners - Accuracy By Volume"
Just saw this, think this will work fine for one less tool less operation.
 Failed To Load Title |
PSALMS 144-1 Blessed be the Lord my strength, which teacheth my hands to warre, and my fingers to fight
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Originally Posted By prskiller:
Just saw this, think this will work fine for one less tool less operation. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CX5KqalBT8M Those screws drive me nuts.
I also picked up the annealeeze marker mount to try, seems like a clever idea. |
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OMG, that is soooo cool. I freaking hate taking the PM on and off, especially when your S 1050 is mounted where you cannot get behind it. Got one of the PM QD's, also got a couple of the pull tabs to try out. 2 bucks, what the hell. If I am correct, I met this guy through a FB RPR site a few years back, he sent me some of the RPR mag release tabs to try out. Kind of a Beta test I guess. It worked very well for me due to the condition of my hands. Really nice guy, seems to be pretty smart, a lot of innovative reloading tools on the website. I do not understand what the Tormach tool is for. Bottom right corner of the products. |
I just gotta ask........
| It is, but how many ways can you build a working collator and not infringe on a patent like that? I guess you can do like GSI, but it's worse in almost every way other than using one fewer station. Patents can be fairly broad, I wouldn't throw them under the bus for that necessarily. |
S1050 up grades (Page 8 of 9)
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