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6/15/2015 9:38:37 AM EDT
I picked up about 100 pieces of once fired .223 brass from a firm that advertises here.  This is the brass used after testing every build.   I pressed out the primers, wet tumbled, and dried them.

Headstamp is GECO and a few LC.  Pockets were crimped so I set up a Dillon Super Swage to re-form the edge.

For the next step, the Dillon 650 is configured to size, prime and trim.  After sizing is primer insertion.  The new CCI primers went in far to easily, no force required at all.  After 20 pieces I stopped.

I believe that I over swaged the brass resulting in over-sizing the primer pocket.  

I (very carefully) de-primed the brass and the new primers nearly fell out.  Then the brass went to the scrap bin.

Be careful out there....
6/15/2015 9:55:11 AM EDT
[#1]
I know it's a very slow process...But I always hand prime all my brass...Just because of this issue.

But then again...I don't reload 5 or 6 hundred rounds in one sitting...Maybe 1 hundred.
6/15/2015 9:57:00 AM EDT
[#2]
Quoted:
I picked up about 100 pieces of once fired .223 brass from a firm that advertises here.  This is the brass used after testing every build.   I pressed out the primers, wet tumbled, and dried them.

Headstamp is GECO and a few LC.  Pockets were crimped so I set up a Dillon Super Swage to re-form the edge.

For the next step, the Dillon 650 is configured to size, prime and trim.  After sizing is primer insertion.  The new CCI primers went in far to easily, no force required at all.  After 20 pieces I stopped.

I believe that I over swaged the brass resulting in over-sizing the primer pocket.  

I (very carefully) de-primed the brass and the new primers nearly fell out.  Then the brass went to the scrap bin.

Be careful out there....
View Quote


This is why I use an RCBS cutter to remove crimps.  Not knocking the Super Swage, but I want somethign that is error proof.
6/15/2015 10:19:03 AM EDT
[#3]
It is fairly easy to setup the Super Swager to over swage. I generally use about 10 pieces of brass that I do not intend to load for adjustment. I only swage to the point of just going in with resistance.

Vince
6/15/2015 10:42:50 AM EDT
[#4]
Primer crimps are the devil!  

Came to that conclusion last night after battling some 1960s Lake City M80 7.62 cases.  I literally had to CUT the crimps out the pockets with a utility knife (slow and tedious).  Even then, it was a major battle trying to seat hard CCI BR primers into those cases.

On top of that, most of the Lake City flash holes were off center.  In this case, I am glad they don't make stuff like they used to!
6/15/2015 12:01:36 PM EDT
[#5]
The Dillon will smash brass if you let it proper adjustment is important . I sort by head stamp then do them in groups checking the adjustment. Never have issues after I learned this the hard way.
6/15/2015 12:03:00 PM EDT
[#6]
Hornady reamer. Very hard to screw up with that tool.
6/15/2015 12:55:01 PM EDT
[#7]
I don't understand.

If the swaging rod is a set diameter, how can that cause some pockets to be wider than others?  I can see how one might be able to (possibly) make the pocket deeper or even crush / mangle the case, but the diameter thing is escaping me.  I have one of the RCBS on-press swaging setups (new to me), and would like to know more before I get started with it.

(I'm assuming that the same issue can be applied to the RCBS, but I really don't know much about it...)
6/15/2015 2:10:40 PM EDT
[#8]
Like any process in reloading, swage a case, seat a primer.



Adjust tool as needed.



So the lesson is, prove you tool set up before running a batch.



Whether sizing, trimming, swaging, powder measure adjustment, or other forms of case prep or reloading.
6/15/2015 2:21:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:
I don't understand.

If the swaging rod is a set diameter, how can that cause some pockets to be wider than others?  I can see how one might be able to (possibly) make the pocket deeper or even crush / mangle the case, but the diameter thing is escaping me.  I have one of the RCBS on-press swaging setups (new to me), and would like to know more before I get started with it.

(I'm assuming that the same issue can be applied to the RCBS, but I really don't know much about it...)
View Quote


The rods on the super swage are tapered, so they can be set up to swage too much.
6/15/2015 2:28:02 PM EDT
[#10]

Quote History
Quoted:


Hornady reamer. Very hard to screw up with that tool.
View Quote




This is what I use, never ruined a primer pocket with it in small or large.
 
6/15/2015 2:35:07 PM EDT
[#11]
I tried swaging, found it too dependent upon brass dimensions, couldn't get it consistent across headstamps, etc..

Went to a reamer and never looked back.
6/15/2015 3:14:52 PM EDT
[#12]
I have always used a reamer and had no problems. My son thought that was too slow so he bought a swager  (RCBS I think) and had many
problems with oversized primer pockets. I don't think he uses it any more.
6/15/2015 7:00:43 PM EDT
[#13]
Good advise guys.  Thanks.
6/15/2015 8:23:39 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote History
Quoted:
I don't understand.

If the swaging rod is a set diameter, how can that cause some pockets to be wider than others?  I can see how one might be able to (possibly) make the pocket deeper or even crush / mangle the case, but the diameter thing is escaping me.  I have one of the RCBS on-press swaging setups (new to me), and would like to know more before I get started with it.

(I'm assuming that the same issue can be applied to the RCBS, but I really don't know much about it...)
View Quote


The on-press RCBS is very near idiot proof, possibly why it's not as user friendly.

They give warnings about different web thicknesses, but if you're not putting your full weight on the handle you won't bend the stem that goes down into the case which is all that can really happen, in .308 and .223 anyway. The spud is straight and then has a rather short radius it can be obnoxious to get it to roll enough of the crimp, and brass can require spirited handle manipulation to pop off, primers will still seat fine.
6/15/2015 9:12:45 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote History
Quoted:

....and brass can require spirited handle manipulation to pop off...
View Quote



Best possible description of that operation.
6/15/2015 11:14:24 PM EDT
[#16]
Tried the RCBS on press primer and that was painful to my carpal tunnel due to the spirited handle manipulation to release the brass.

I then bought the Dillon swage tool. Was not impressed. Inconsistent primer seating effort after swaging. Tried sorting by head stamp and year but it made little difference.

I now use the Hornady reamer and it work terrific. I am working on prepping a 5 gallon pail of brass. Luckily with reaming I only have to do it once as that is the slowest operation in the process. I mark all my reloads so I only have to ream the new cases.
6/16/2015 4:12:43 AM EDT
[#17]
The only issue I have with the hornady reamer... its easy to go in at a slight angle and cut one side of the brass more than the other.
6/16/2015 9:29:53 AM EDT
[#18]
I use the rcbs swagger die with ballistic tools primer pocket gauges.  Before the gauges, it was hit and miss resizing primer pockets.
6/16/2015 10:28:38 AM EDT
[#19]
Hornady reamer on one of the stations of my RCBS Trim Mate is how I handle military crimps.  It's slow and tedious and it sucks doing a bunch of brass, but it works and I've never oversized a primer pocket.
6/16/2015 10:43:40 AM EDT
[#20]
The Hornady reamer is the same thread pitch as my gun cleaning rod, so I put it on that (I have the kit that has several rods you screw together) and chuck that in my drill press. I can easily do 100's in one sitting.
6/16/2015 11:53:19 AM EDT
[#21]


Quote History
Quoted:

The only issue I have with the hornady reamer... its easy to go in at a slight angle and cut one side of the brass more than the other.
View Quote


With a little practice it's easy to insert cases squarely and get good results with this reamer.



It's possible to misuse almost any tool.
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