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Posted: 6/7/2014 11:20:03 AM EDT
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Okay Guys this is new to me, I recently started getting into reloading for .223 as I jumped on the AR bandwagon and along with getting the AR I purchased 1K rounds of Federal 5.56NATO XM193 cartridges so I could have the brass to reload, well I went thru about 3/4 of the ammo and thought ok lets clean some cases and get them prepped to reload to develop a load so I started that process and found out the primer pockets were crimped and this is new to me as I have always got my prepped .308 brass from Top Brass and the crimps were taken care of, well I looked around and found a Lyman small reamer at a LGS so I thought it would be easy as it just threads into a RCBS handle I have and just a few twists and be done, well either I am doing something wrong or this thing is a piece of crap because I had a hell of a time seating new primers, so now the big question, am I doing something wrong or do i need a different tool because I don't want to fight 950 primer pockets.
Sorry for the long explaination 
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http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. |
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Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. Okay Brother not that I have deep pockets but I know the Dillon one is like $100 compared to the Hornady one for $10 and can it be safely used with a power adapter and ran at low speed in a drill without fear of damaging the pockets, i am not opposed to the Dillon one as I have a alot of Blue Koolaid already just looking for something i won't have to replace in a year or so with another tool. |
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I've just been watching some vids on the Dillon swager and it looks pretty sweet and painless and idiot proof for me but a hard pill to swallow for the price but I also like the fact it looks like it's built like a tank and would possible be the last one you would have to buy.
Update: I need to put this primer prep thing to bed and I have read thru past posts of others and did some searching and came up with these (3) and need help picking one RCBS Hornady Dillon |
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Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. Curious what you don't like about the Rcbs swage die? |
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Quoted: Curious what you don't like about the Rcbs swage die? Quoted: Quoted: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. Curious what you don't like about the Rcbs swage die? If you like your, I glad for you. Only reason I've kept mine is the swagging spud, they make good primer crimp go/no go gauges.  Spud enters fully = no crimp.
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Quoted:
Have to adjust for every headstamp, rod bends, hard to get case off swagging spud, slow. If you like your, I glad for you. Only reason I've kept mine is the swagging spud, they make good primer crimp go/no go gauges. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/PA280274.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/PA280274.jpg</a> Spud enters fully = no crimp. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. Curious what you don't like about the Rcbs swage die? If you like your, I glad for you. Only reason I've kept mine is the swagging spud, they make good primer crimp go/no go gauges. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/PA280274.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/PA280274.jpg</a> Spud enters fully = no crimp. I usually sort my brass by headstamp so that's not a big deal for me. I know they redesigned the rods and made them stronger on the new models. The most important thing is that you need to slide the case up into the die and then raise the ram. I saw a youtube video and the guy was trying to place the shell on the ram and raise it into the die. That won't work well if at all. OP, you're list goes from inexpensive hand reamers to a super swage. It really comes down to two things. Volume of brass you will be processing and what you're willing to spend |
| Well after looking at ones like Dillon and RCBS that use the rods and seeing that you have to adjust by HS and I don't sort by HS at all so those most likely are not going to work for me so it's going to come down to the one from Hornady or the one from RCBS made for the Trim mate, I believe I can put either of these in a drill with some type of thread adapter and just sit at the workbench and git r done and they both look like they have a positive stop that keeps you from getting into the pocket. |
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Quoted:
Have to adjust for every headstamp, rod bends, hard to get case off swagging spud, slow. If you like your, I glad for you. Only reason I've kept mine is the swagging spud, they make good primer crimp go/no go gauges. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/PA280274.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/PA280274.jpg</a> Spud enters fully = no crimp. Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. Curious what you don't like about the Rcbs swage die? If you like your, I glad for you. Only reason I've kept mine is the swagging spud, they make good primer crimp go/no go gauges. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/PA280274.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/PA280274.jpg</a> Spud enters fully = no crimp. I don't understand this statement. (in blue above) Why would different head stamps matter? I have used this tool, an older model and have to ask what are you adjusting? It don't get any simpler. You are driving a steel rod into the primer pocket until it bottoms out. What is there to adjust? Yes I agree popping the case off of the stud is sometimes not the smoothest operation. |
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OP: Just chuck that Lyman crimp bit in a drill. It will work fine. Press the case deep into the spinning reamer. There is a stop, so you can't go too deep. Just push it in for a couple seconds. Works great. With a power drill you will see the crimp peel out in a shower of flecks.
These little reamers are cheap and it will dull out after maybe 200-300 cases. I buy several at a time, so I have a spare. The RCBS version is shaped a little differently. I have one of those, too. They work the same way. They seem to last a little longer. I see no need to spend a lot of money on swaging equipped, unless you plan on doing more than a thousand and will be repeating it. Once you run a batch, you are done until the cases have been reloaded too many times to be reloaded. |
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Okay Brother not that I have deep pockets but I know the Dillon one is like $100 compared to the Hornady one for $10 and can it be safely used with a power adapter and ran at low speed in a drill without fear of damaging the pockets, i am not opposed to the Dillon one as I have a alot of Blue Koolaid already just looking for something i won't have to replace in a year or so with another tool. Quoted:
Quoted:
http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. Okay Brother not that I have deep pockets but I know the Dillon one is like $100 compared to the Hornady one for $10 and can it be safely used with a power adapter and ran at low speed in a drill without fear of damaging the pockets, i am not opposed to the Dillon one as I have a alot of Blue Koolaid already just looking for something i won't have to replace in a year or so with another tool. I've got the Lyman PP reamer, it works for me, but it cuts the PPs a little too wide for my comfort, so, I am buying the Dillon swager, yeah, it's a hundred bones, but I won't ever have to replace it and it is a lot easier. I know your pain on the damned crimps on military brass, I went through that mess a few weeks ago. |
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Quoted: I don't understand this statement. (in blue above) Why would different head stamps matter? I have used this tool, an older model and have to ask what are you adjusting? It don't get any simpler. You are driving a steel rod into the primer pocket until it bottoms out. What is there to adjust? Yes I agree popping the case off of the stud is sometimes not the smoothest operation. Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: Quoted: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small This one works, $10. We get a lot of threads on the Lyman PP reamer. I have one from 15 yrs ago, it didn't work. Then there is the $100 swager from Dillon that works. RCBS now makes a real swager also for a little less. Or the $30 swage die from RCBS, not their best product. Curious what you don't like about the Rcbs swage die? If you like your, I glad for you. Only reason I've kept mine is the swagging spud, they make good primer crimp go/no go gauges. <a href="http://s250.photobucket.com/user/dryflash3/media/Tools/PA280274.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tools/PA280274.jpg</a> Spud enters fully = no crimp. I don't understand this statement. (in blue above) Why would different head stamps matter? I have used this tool, an older model and have to ask what are you adjusting? It don't get any simpler. You are driving a steel rod into the primer pocket until it bottoms out. What is there to adjust? Yes I agree popping the case off of the stud is sometimes not the smoothest operation. I posted my opinion, if you like this tool, I'm happy for you.
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Quoted:
OP: Just chuck that Lyman crimp bit in a drill. It will work fine. Press the case deep into the spinning reamer. There is a stop, so you can't go too deep. Just push it in for a couple seconds. Works great. With a power drill you will see the crimp peel out in a shower of flecks. These little reamers are cheap and it will dull out after maybe 200-300 cases. I buy several at a time, so I have a spare. The RCBS version is shaped a little differently. I have one of those, too. They work the same way. They seem to last a little longer. I see no need to spend a lot of money on swaging equipped, unless you plan on doing more than a thousand and will be repeating it. Once you run a batch, you are done until the cases have been reloaded too many times to be reloaded. I did not know reamers like this would wear out in a few hundred rounds and I have about 1K or so to process but I also don't want to have to adjust a swager for web thickness either since I don't sort by HS or year either so it looks like I will buy the Hornady one and maybe the RCBS trim mate one to use along with the Lyman and just chuck them into a drill because like you and others have said it's a one time process. |
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I did not know reamers like this would wear out in a few hundred rounds and I have about 1K or so to process but I also don't want to have to adjust a swager for web thickness either since I don't sort by HS or year either so it looks like I will buy the Hornady one and maybe the RCBS trim mate one to use along with the Lyman and just chuck them into a drill because like you and others have said it's a one time process. Quoted:
Quoted:
OP: Just chuck that Lyman crimp bit in a drill. It will work fine. Press the case deep into the spinning reamer. There is a stop, so you can't go too deep. Just push it in for a couple seconds. Works great. With a power drill you will see the crimp peel out in a shower of flecks. These little reamers are cheap and it will dull out after maybe 200-300 cases. I buy several at a time, so I have a spare. The RCBS version is shaped a little differently. I have one of those, too. They work the same way. They seem to last a little longer. I see no need to spend a lot of money on swaging equipped, unless you plan on doing more than a thousand and will be repeating it. Once you run a batch, you are done until the cases have been reloaded too many times to be reloaded. I did not know reamers like this would wear out in a few hundred rounds and I have about 1K or so to process but I also don't want to have to adjust a swager for web thickness either since I don't sort by HS or year either so it looks like I will buy the Hornady one and maybe the RCBS trim mate one to use along with the Lyman and just chuck them into a drill because like you and others have said it's a one time process. They will keep cutting after the 200-300 case point, they just slow down some. It's not like they stop cutting. I just like to have an extra reamer on hand so that I can maintain speed. This is a $10 item, including handle, so it is not going to hold up like a commercial grade machine tool. But it gets the job done for little investment. |
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