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Posted: 4/11/2014 6:23:32 AM EDT
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Hey guys,
So I'm getting into reloading, and I have a Lee Classic Turret Press in the mail, but I see that I purchased the wrong table to use as a reloading table, but I need to make it work anyway and can use some help. Primarily, there are two problems: * The table top is quite thin & I need to mount it in a secure manner. * The drawer underneath the table top will probably be blocked by the press. Here's some pics: 
What do you guys recommend? Is there a table top mount I can use for the Lee Classic Turret Press, similar to this one perhaps? Dillon RL550/XL650 Strong Mount How can I get it mounted sturdily on a thin table top like that? |
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Quoted:
Hey guys, So I'm getting into reloading, and I have a Lee Classic Turret Press in the mail, but I see that I purchased the wrong table to use as a reloading table, but I need to make it work anyway and can use some help. Primarily, there are two problems: * The table top is quite thin & I need to mount it in a secure manner. * The drawer underneath the table top will probably be blocked by the press. Here's some pics: <a href="http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/tuxedoonatshirt/media/IMG_3072.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/tuxedoonatshirt/IMG_3072.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/tuxedoonatshirt/media/IMG_3067.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/tuxedoonatshirt/IMG_3067.jpg</a> What do you guys recommend? Is there a table top mount I can use for the Lee Classic Turret Press, similar to this one perhaps? Dillon RL550/XL650 Strong Mount How can I get it mounted sturdily on a thin table top like that? http://inlinefabrication.com/collections/ultramounts/products/lee-classic-turret For extra support on the bench you could mount an aluminum plate on the bench where the press mounts. You could mount it underneath the surface if you wanted to keep your bench top smooth. |
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For the top you can always add some 2X? to the top and then a sheet of masonite to the top to finish it off to make it thicker,
The legs are not going to work well, they are way to small and flimsy. You will need to figure a way to straighten them for the bench to work. |
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I've got a similar bench in my garage (not for reloading).
Replace the particle board bottom shelf and top with 3/4" plywood, and see if you can drill and screw through the back of the bench into a concrete anchor. Add some weight to the bottom shelf after that, and you'll be as good as you can get with that bench...might work out OK. |
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I would say replace the top. If you can swing it extend the top a little over the front edge. I personally like my press to over hang so my legs have somewhere to go and I don't feel like the press is riding the edge.
The shelf below the bench top should be fine with the exception of the small area the press will block. You still can place things there you will just have to reach a bit. If you can anchor it to the wall or barring that load the bottom shelf down with weight. |
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You could replace the whole top with what I did on this Lowes work bench
Add more LED lighting. |
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Quoted:
Hey guys, So I'm getting into reloading, and I have a Lee Classic Turret Press in the mail, but I see that I purchased the wrong table to use as a reloading table, but I need to make it work anyway and can use some help. Primarily, there are two problems: * The table top is quite thin & I need to mount it in a secure manner. * The drawer underneath the table top will probably be blocked by the press. Here's some pics: <a href="http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/tuxedoonatshirt/media/IMG_3072.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/tuxedoonatshirt/IMG_3072.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/tuxedoonatshirt/media/IMG_3067.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/tuxedoonatshirt/IMG_3067.jpg</a> What do you guys recommend? Is there a table top mount I can use for the Lee Classic Turret Press, similar to this one perhaps? Dillon RL550/XL650 Strong Mount How can I get it mounted sturdily on a thin table top like that? If it were just the top that were an issue, you could add one or two layers of 3/4" plywood, perhaps 18" square, then mount the press to that. Given the drawer is also an issue, I can see two good ways to deal with it: 1) The Inline Fabrication mount mentioned earlier, on top of an 18"sq piece of 3/4" plywood to spread the load, on top of your bench. You could also mount that 3/4" plate so that the entire press could be removed when not in use to free up bench space. 2) For a few dollars more, this Lee Stand which will allow you to use the press next to your bench, without taking up valuable bench space, and without disturbing scales etc that you may be using on your bench. I've used it myself, it is very stable with one block suspended under it as shown, and will handle a Hornady LnL AP with great stability with two blocks. |
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Quoted:
If it were just the top that were an issue, you could add one or two layers of 3/4" plywood, perhaps 18" square, then mount the press to that. Given the drawer is also an issue, I can see two good ways to deal with it: 1) The Inline Fabrication mount mentioned earlier, on top of an 18"sq piece of 3/4" plywood to spread the load, on top of your bench. You could also mount that 3/4" plate so that the entire press could be removed when not in use to free up bench space. 2) For a few dollars more, this Lee Stand which will allow you to use the press next to your bench, without taking up valuable bench space, and without disturbing scales etc that you may be using on your bench. I've used it myself, it is very stable with one block suspended under it as shown, and will handle a Hornady LnL AP with great stability with two blocks. Quoted:
Quoted:
Hey guys, So I'm getting into reloading, and I have a Lee Classic Turret Press in the mail, but I see that I purchased the wrong table to use as a reloading table, but I need to make it work anyway and can use some help. Primarily, there are two problems: * The table top is quite thin & I need to mount it in a secure manner. * The drawer underneath the table top will probably be blocked by the press. Here's some pics: <a href="http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/tuxedoonatshirt/media/IMG_3072.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/tuxedoonatshirt/IMG_3072.jpg</a> <a href="http://s1055.photobucket.com/user/tuxedoonatshirt/media/IMG_3067.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i1055.photobucket.com/albums/s504/tuxedoonatshirt/IMG_3067.jpg</a> What do you guys recommend? Is there a table top mount I can use for the Lee Classic Turret Press, similar to this one perhaps? Dillon RL550/XL650 Strong Mount How can I get it mounted sturdily on a thin table top like that? If it were just the top that were an issue, you could add one or two layers of 3/4" plywood, perhaps 18" square, then mount the press to that. Given the drawer is also an issue, I can see two good ways to deal with it: 1) The Inline Fabrication mount mentioned earlier, on top of an 18"sq piece of 3/4" plywood to spread the load, on top of your bench. You could also mount that 3/4" plate so that the entire press could be removed when not in use to free up bench space. 2) For a few dollars more, this Lee Stand which will allow you to use the press next to your bench, without taking up valuable bench space, and without disturbing scales etc that you may be using on your bench. I've used it myself, it is very stable with one block suspended under it as shown, and will handle a Hornady LnL AP with great stability with two blocks. Cheaper place to get the stand. http://www.titanreloading.com/lee-reloading-stand?filter_name=Stand. They have a local showroom and are good to go. |
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Thanks for the replies so far guys.
I do like the UltraMount, and I like the idea of replacing my thin particle board w/ a 3/4" plywood, or something like that. I guess the skinny chicken legs the table has will have to do. I'll put something heavier than diapers on the bottom shelf before I'm done. Mounting it against the wall is an option I'll have to remember if I have problems, but I'd prefer not to risk f-ing up the cement blocks the wall is made out of, as I don't have the right tools for the job. The Lee stand is something that may be a good fallback choice. The Press arrived today, and it's actually not as bad as I thought. The UltraMount probably won't be required. I can actually open the drawer w/ the press held on w/ my hand, but closing it is when it gets stuck on it. Basically the press just needs to be a little higher and the drawer can clear it. Here's pics of that: 
I'm a bit concerned about the amount of material the table is giving me to mount stuff on to. Here's a pic: 
What's some recommendations on mounting some material here to give the press something to be attached to and raise it up above the drawer? I don't have that many tools. I do have a cheapo drill, in addition to enough tools to hang pictures in the hallway. Do I need to replace the entire 5'x2' top, or add something to just a corner of the bench? Also, I didn't realize it didn't come w/ mounting bolts. What am I asking for when I go to the home depot to pick some up? |
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You will need a drill with drill bits sized for the holes you need to drill.
I think a 3/4 ply wood sheet would work. You can tell Home Despot that you dont own a saw, but you need a table top cut. If the measurement is precisely 2x5, see if they can cut you a piece to fit from a 4x8 sheet (to 2x5 or whatever size fits the table properly). Make sure the mounting bolt holes in the reloading press extend beyond or clear the metal lip of the table top where the quarter is. Measure the diameter of the mounting bolt holes in the press. Or the instructions should tell you what size bolts to get. You need two cresent wrenches or preferably a socket set and wrench(s), that is tools needed to tighten the bolts to secure the press to the board. Measure the thickness of the press, and the board you end up using for the table top. The bolt threads will need to extend beyond that total thickness so you can secure the press to the board with nuts and washers. However make sure the threads of the bolts are such that the nut and washer will contact the board or the press. (Some of your bolt styles have a length of the shaft below the bolt head without any threads, if that part extends beyond the board / press surface, the nuts will never tighten down.) See those little holes at the corners of the bench lip / metal frame top near your quarter? You could get bolts with diameters to fit those holes, and bolt the plywood to the top of that bench frame at the 4 corners. You would need to gage the length of bolt and threaded length of the bolt the same as described for the press. Again you may want to get a cheap socket set to go wth a cresent wrench to be able to tighten the nuts and bolts. For the lightness of the table, you could get a stronger piece of 3/4" plywood cut for the bottom bench as well. Then you could put some heavy stuff on it to help secure the bench from moving when reloading. I actually have used bags of lead shot or sandbags on a bench like that at the bottom shelf to help secure it. I just put the heavy bags over the 2 or 4 corners, then they do not cause any trouble or bending for even the flimsy particle board. |
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Quoted:
You will need a drill with drill bits sized for the holes you need to drill. I think a 3/4 ply wood sheet would work. You can tell Home Despot that you dont own a saw, but you need a table top cut. If the measurement is precisely 2x5, see if they can cut you a piece to fit from a 4x8 sheet (to 2x5 or whatever size fits the table properly). Make sure the mounting bolt holes in the reloading press extend beyond or clear the metal lip of the table top where the quarter is. Measure the diameter of the mounting bolt holes in the press. Or the instructions should tell you what size bolts to get. You need two cresent wrenches or preferably a socket set and wrench(s), that is tools needed to tighten the bolts to secure the press to the board. Measure the thickness of the press, and the board you end up using for the table top. The bolt threads will need to extend beyond that total thickness so you can secure the press to the board with nuts and washers. However make sure the threads of the bolts are such that the nut and washer will contact the board or the press. (Some of your bolt styles have a length of the shaft below the bolt head without any threads, if that part extends beyond the board / press surface, the nuts will never tighten down.) See those little holes at the corners of the bench lip / metal frame top near your quarter? You could get bolts with diameters to fit those holes, and bolt the plywood to the top of that bench frame at the 4 corners. You would need to gage the length of bolt and threaded length of the bolt the same as described for the press. Again you may want to get a cheap socket set to go wth a cresent wrench to be able to tighten the nuts and bolts. For the lightness of the table, you could get a stronger piece of 3/4" plywood cut for the bottom bench as well. Then you could put some heavy stuff on it to help secure the bench from moving when reloading. I actually have used bags of lead shot or sandbags on a bench like that at the bottom shelf to help secure it. I just put the heavy bags over the 2 or 4 corners, then they do not cause any trouble or bending for even the flimsy particle board. I'd do this ^, plus add a scrap piece of plywood above and below the main top, to further stiffen the mounting point (it will also have the bonus effect in your case of raising the press slightly, clearing your drawer, from the way you describe/show it). |
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Ok, so I checked and the bolt holes in the press are 5/8th inch. The center of the 2 holes nearest the table edge are 1/2", however the metal lip under the board is 1", meaning the holes on the press won't clear the metal lip. What's the trick here to clear this?
So step 1 is replacing the pressboard w/ 3/4" plywood. What's after that? What about mounting a block of wood to the plywood, then mounting the press to the block of wood? How high does the block need to be? How to bolt it down nicely to it? Let's say the block is 6" thick( a nice 2/x6?). I could drill a 5/8th hole through the block, then hollow out a 2 inch deep hollow area such that a hold head and washer could fit in the hollow space, w/ the nut poking out the top and then holding the press down on the block. From there the block is bolted down to the plywood. Sound good? The largest drill bit owned is a 5/8th inch. What would I need to drill out the hollow bit? Would home depot do that for me? |
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Quoted:
Ok, so I checked and the bolt holes in the press are 5/8th inch. The center of the 2 holes nearest the table edge are 1/2", however the metal lip under the board is 1", meaning the holes on the press won't clear the metal lip. What's the trick here to clear this? So step 1 is replacing the pressboard w/ 3/4" plywood. What's after that? What about mounting a block of wood to the plywood, then mounting the press to the block of wood? How high does the block need to be? How to bolt it down nicely to it? Let's say the block is 6" thick( a nice 2/x6?). I could drill a 5/8th hole through the block, then hollow out a 2 inch deep hollow area such that a hold head and washer could fit in the hollow space, w/ the nut poking out the top and then holding the press down on the block. From there the block is bolted down to the plywood. Sound good? The largest drill bit owned is a 5/8th inch. What would I need to drill out the hollow bit? Would home depot do that for me? The 3 holes that you use to bolt the press to the table are 5/16". Are those the ones you said are 5/8"? I just mounted mine last night and I can confirm this is the right size. I'm thinking you will be able to drill through the wood and the metal lip and bolt right through both. By your description your holes should be right about center in the lip. With a 3/4 inch top are you even going to need another block under the press? |
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Woops, the holes are definitely not 5/8ths. I got 1/4" bolts instead. I'm sorta afraid that my sucky drill won't go through the metal. I think I'll test it out. If I can mount it firmly by drilling through the metal & the plywood, then maybe I can mount it w/out an extra block. I might need the extra block just so the press can clear the drawer though.
I did the home depot run & got the 3/4" plywood, the 2x6 block and a bunch of drill bits/nuts/bolts. I'll see how it goes. |
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You'll probably need to run a couple of self-tapping screws through where the leg connects with the sheet metal on the top band of the bench. Make sure you have plenty of weight on the lower shelves. I've found that when sizing 223 with the LCT, there is some resistance on the up stroke which may cause the bench top to lift with the key holes that hold it together.
If you're worried about drilling through the sheet metal, extend the 2x6 enough to have the press bolts overhang the bench. Get a long enough piece to bolt it to the bench with at least four bolts. |
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If you can get a drill and drill bit that will go through the metal, it may work. In fact the hole in the plywood above the lip can serve as a guide and stabilizer for drilling through the metal below.
You can show the folks at Home Depot or the local hardware store the picture so they can see what you are drilling, they should be able to find a bit that will do it. |
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First, the top. A double layer of 3/4" plywood will be plenty strong for whatever you might mount to it. A single layer will be adequate, but doubling it (and gluing the two layers together) will be better. You can extend the top layer out a bit, if you wish. The double layer would also give you clearance for the shelf to slide out.
Second, I would run some screws up through those holes in the corners of the crosspieces into the top. That will secure it well. Next, use some self-tapping sheet metal screws through the legs and into the crosspieces. That will secure those. If you wanna beef up the crosspieces, you could rip some 2x4s down to fit inside the crosspieces (looks like C channel to me) and screw through the face of the crosspieces into the 2x. Finally, you could cut some 2x2s to the appropriate length and screw them into those angle iron legs. Sounds complicated, but wouldn't take a couple hours. |
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Well folks, thanks for the help. I got it mounted thanks to a variety of inputs.
I went w/ the 3/4" plywood, plus a 10" block of 2x6. I will see how well it goes before having to reinforce the flimsier features that remain unaddressed. In case it helps someone else out, here's my solution. The press is mounted to the 2x6 w/ 1/4" mounting bolts. the washers were 3/4" wide & I bought a bit to hollow out a space underneath the 2x6 for a flush fit w/ the plywood. 
I then mounted that down w/ 4 1/2" inch bolts w/ washers on either side. 
Of course now that I'm at least $600 into equipment, I only have about 6000 rounds worth of reloading components to buy to pay down the costs and I'll be ROLLING in all the money I'm saving by reloading. 
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| Congrats. It's less about the cheaper ammo and more about the satisfaction of being able to make your own for me. Somehow it feels better knowing you are shooting something you put work into to make. I shot my new 300BLK pistol and it felt good shooting it knowing I built the rifle from all parts and made all the ammo. The only thing that would be more satisfying would be to machine the parts and shell casings. That's a whole other level though. |
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Quoted:
Well folks, thanks for the help. I got it mounted thanks to a variety of inputs. .. Of course now that I'm at least $600 into equipment, I only have about 6000 rounds worth of reloading components to buy to pay down the costs and I'll be ROLLING in all the money I'm saving by reloading. Keep an eye on the bottom of the plywood - I wouldn't have drilled the underside to make the holy/nut flush, as you're reducing the strength of the plywood in doing so...may be fine, but I'd keep an eye on it for a while. RE: $...it's all in how much you shoot. I shoot ~6k pistol and 2k rifle a year, which paid for the (progressive) press and most tools in the first year alone vs what I'd be paying buying ammo. As someone else said, it's also about being able to tailor it to your guns, and not to mention, having ammo when it becomes scarce again. |
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I think he countersunk the bolt heads on the 2x, not the plywood.
And for $$$ saved, forget it. You'll soon be stockpiling components. Now don't get me wrong, I do save $$$ per round, but those costs are offset by buying more components. I like knowing I can turn some free time into ammo. I can load a thousand rounds, or a hundred for a range trip. My ammo is tailor made for my guns and the intended use--no compromising. And finally, I don't have to worry about the next shortage nearly as much. Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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