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11/2/2013 4:51:46 AM EDT
I have a Lee 5-stage progressive that I am using for 9mm. So far I have been wet cleaning them first, then depriming on a Lee single, then cleaning the primer pockets, then loading into the press for priming & the rest of the process.

My questions are:

1) I have read many people here deprime & then clean. It was recommended to me, however, to clean first then deprime. Either way,  it results in a separate process of depriming outside my progressive.  This is a big time consumer & leaves the first stage of my press un-used. Who here doesn't bother cleaning the pockets for pistol range ammo? If I could skip the pocket cleaning & put my deprimer in the first stage I would save a large amount of time & make use of all the stages the press has to offer.

2) I have noticed that my primer rod leaves an indention on the primer. I have surmised that it is from when the piece was machined the cutter left a very minute tit at the center of the rod that was not smoothed.  Has anyone encountered this before?  I am not pleased as I could see this potentially setting off a primer in the press so I plan on sanding it smooth. I would post pics but so far my attemps @ pic posting have gone unsuccessfully even though I should be using the img interface properly.
11/2/2013 5:59:38 AM EDT
[#1]
Pistol stuff i wouldnt mess with cleaning the primer pockets. For 9mm i would just load my machine and go with all stages on the press. Now if i load 40 s&w i debulge my brass on a single stage press.  I dont think you will set off a primer with what your talking about. I have mashed those things in sideways and not had a problem yet.
11/2/2013 7:17:35 AM EDT
[#2]
I always deprime then clean. I do not deprime on my main press. I use a $25.00 Lee press for that.
11/2/2013 7:18:01 AM EDT
[#3]
I always deprime then clean. I do not deprime on my main press. I use a $25.00 Lee press for that.
oops
11/2/2013 7:32:25 AM EDT
[#4]
I deprime my brass with the Lee Universal decaping die on the cheap Lee "C" press and then tumble clean. My next step is to full-length size my brass (I do this for 9mm, .38 & .223) and then I tumble again. This cleans off any lube and also cleans the primer pockets

My main press is a Lee Load Master Progressive press. I too noticed a small indentation on the primer when seated properly. I thought at first that I had too much length turned out in the primer arm bolt. I adjusted this some and the marks went away, but the primers were not seated deep enough. I readjusted the seating depth so that it was proper and the small indentations on my seated primers came back. I am not too worried about the marks - though I did install the Lee explosion shield for safe measure (this is only a $7 part).
11/2/2013 7:47:25 AM EDT
[#5]
Don't worry about primer pockets with most handgun. Deprime on press. If you are loading moa match ammo, then primer pockets might have a 1/10th of an moa change.

As for the primer unit, I would polish it flat. Doubtful it'll cause any negative effects, but it can't hurt to hit it with a file to flatten it, and wet sand smooth.
11/2/2013 4:00:38 PM EDT
[#6]
No need in cleaning the primer pockets. The marks on the primers are caused by improper case alignment to the primer pin. The 19s shellplate is made to fit the 9mm and 40. The 6s plate lines up much better, but there are a couple of modifications that need to be done. The conversion is explained in detail in this video by Magic Mike, he is a retired engineer who has come up with some great mods for the Load Master.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxGE04PKd2w
For more Load Master mods, here is his WEBSITE
11/2/2013 4:09:10 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
I have a Lee 5-stage progressive that I am using for 9mm. So far I have been wet cleaning them first, then depriming on a Lee single, then cleaning the primer pockets, then loading into the press for priming & the rest of the process.

View Quote


Your catch is wet cleaning primed cases.

If you deprime and size right away, then corrosion in the primer pocket isn't much of a concern.  But you'll be priming a primer pocket that not only has a drop of water, it's water with citric acid and soap.

Not a good practice.

If you don't want to deprime first, then switch to a vibratory tumbler with plain untreated clean walnut media to prep the brass before sizing.

The only issue with carbon build up in primer pockets is when it builds enough to interfere with primer seating, and that build up is slow.  It's also the reason I deprime first, to slow the build up.

Our cases do not require the beautiful cleaning from wet tumbling with stainless pins, but they sure look nice afterwards.  Carbon inside the cases has no detrimental effect.




11/2/2013 6:30:26 PM EDT
[#8]
Carbon inside the cases has no detrimental effect.
View Quote


Taken one step farther according to Dillon

.
Third and most important: The carbon residue inside the case acts as a lubricant on the powder funnel. If this is absent, greater effort is required to pull the case off the powder funnel. Brass is cleaned to remove the dirt,grit & chunks from the case so it doesn't scratch the dies, or more importantly, the chamber of your firearm. Cleaning the interior of the case does not improve accuracy
View Quote
11/3/2013 7:30:55 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote History
Quoted:
No need in cleaning the primer pockets. The marks on the primers are caused by improper case alignment to the primer pin. The 19s shellplate is made to fit the 9mm and 40. The 6s plate lines up much better, but there are a couple of modifications that need to be done. The conversion is explained in detail in this video by Magic Mike, he is a retired engineer who has come up with some great mods for the Load Master.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxGE04PKd2w
For more Load Master mods, here is his WEBSITE
View Quote


Thanks for the link! I will check it out.
11/3/2013 7:45:08 AM EDT
[#10]
I appreciate all the input.

Quote History
Quoted:


Your catch is wet cleaning primed cases.

If you deprime and size right away, then corrosion in the primer pocket isn't much of a concern.  But you'll be priming a primer pocket that not only has a drop of water, it's water with citric acid and soap.

Not a good practice.

If you don't want to deprime first, then switch to a vibratory tumbler with plain untreated clean walnut media to prep the brass before sizing.

The only issue with carbon build up in primer pockets is when it builds enough to interfere with primer seating, and that build up is slow.  It's also the reason I deprime first, to slow the build up.

Our cases do not require the beautiful cleaning from wet tumbling with stainless pins, but they sure look nice afterwards.  Carbon inside the cases has no detrimental effect.


View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Quote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a Lee 5-stage progressive that I am using for 9mm. So far I have been wet cleaning them first, then depriming on a Lee single, then cleaning the primer pockets, then loading into the press for priming & the rest of the process.



Your catch is wet cleaning primed cases.

If you deprime and size right away, then corrosion in the primer pocket isn't much of a concern.  But you'll be priming a primer pocket that not only has a drop of water, it's water with citric acid and soap.

Not a good practice.

If you don't want to deprime first, then switch to a vibratory tumbler with plain untreated clean walnut media to prep the brass before sizing.

The only issue with carbon build up in primer pockets is when it builds enough to interfere with primer seating, and that build up is slow.  It's also the reason I deprime first, to slow the build up.

Our cases do not require the beautiful cleaning from wet tumbling with stainless pins, but they sure look nice afterwards.  Carbon inside the cases has no detrimental effect.







Quoted:
Carbon inside the cases has no detrimental effect.


Taken one step farther according to Dillon

.
Third and most important: The carbon residue inside the case acts as a lubricant on the powder funnel. If this is absent, greater effort is required to pull the case off the powder funnel. Brass is cleaned to remove the dirt,grit & chunks from the case so it doesn't scratch the dies, or more importantly, the chamber of your firearm. Cleaning the interior of the case does not improve accuracy


This is why I clean first.

I do not have a dry tumbler.

I am cleaning the inside of the cases & pocket primers by hand. Wet is the only way to get the stuff out easily.

I also let my cases sit for a week or so up side down in pine shell holders. They are always bone dry when I pop the caps, hit with a pocket cleaner with a papertowel over it and they clean right up... Federals seem to take more elbo greese. I got into doing it this way so I could then drop them in the feeder right away.
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