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Posted: 9/5/2013 1:55:54 PM EDT
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Hello everyone.
I have been reloading .223 since the beginning of the year and I have had no major problems. I recently purchased a Remington 700 in .308 and want to start making some quality loads for .308. I would like suggestions pertaining to what you guys have learned about making precision ammo so my learning curve wont be that bad. 
This is my current setup. 
Lee LoadMaster, Lee three hole turret press, Dillon super swage 600, Lyman pro 1200 tumbler My recent order for reloading .308. 308 WIN LEE CASE LENGTH GAUGE/SHELLHOLDER, LEE .308 WIN DELUXE RIFLE 3 DIE SET, LEE .308 WIN FACTORY CRIMP DIE, and LEE PERFECT POWDER MEASURE |
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I have a similar rifle, and I've had good luck with: CCI BR primers 43.4gr IMR4064 (Sierra Manual Max Load- I believe) 168gr SMK Hard to argue with this.^ The .308 Win. is an easy caliber to get good results with. I've seen sub MOA with a wide variety of bullet weights. There is a lot more to great accuracy than the load though. I can't even take a guess on how many factory rifles I have floated the barrel on to correct poor grouping. A good crisp trigger pull and a good rest to shoot from help a lot too. Neck only sizing is also a must for top accuracy from your M700 Rem. DO NOT CRIMP !!!!!!!! The rest is mostly consistency as in all the same head stamp brass, Maybe even weight match them. Consistent brass prep and of course consistent loads. This should get you started. |
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Quoted:
Hard to argue with this.^ The .308 Win. is an easy caliber to get good results with. I've seen sub MOA with a wide variety of bullet weights. There is a lot more to great accuracy than the load though. I can't even take a guess on how many factory rifles I have floated the barrel on to correct poor grouping. A good crisp trigger pull and a good rest to shoot from help a lot too. Neck only sizing is also a must for top accuracy from your M700 Rem. DO NOT CRIMP !!!!!!!! The rest is mostly consistency as in all the same head stamp brass, Maybe even weight match them. Consistent brass prep and of course consistent loads. This should get you started. Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a similar rifle, and I've had good luck with: CCI BR primers 43.4gr IMR4064 (Sierra Manual Max Load- I believe) 168gr SMK Hard to argue with this.^ The .308 Win. is an easy caliber to get good results with. I've seen sub MOA with a wide variety of bullet weights. There is a lot more to great accuracy than the load though. I can't even take a guess on how many factory rifles I have floated the barrel on to correct poor grouping. A good crisp trigger pull and a good rest to shoot from help a lot too. Neck only sizing is also a must for top accuracy from your M700 Rem. DO NOT CRIMP !!!!!!!! The rest is mostly consistency as in all the same head stamp brass, Maybe even weight match them. Consistent brass prep and of course consistent loads. This should get you started. A couple of more details of what I'm doing, these steps may be a placebo, but it makes me feel good: 1. Uniform primer pockets 2. Deburr flash holes I also put a Timney trigger in it, and that alone, has helped out tremendously. |
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Thank you all for the input.
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Most of the listed loads are for .308 commercial cases. If you are making ammo using 7.62x51 Milsurp cases, reduce listed charges by 1-2 grains. (from the Sierra #V) That's about all I got. So 7.62x51 brass will not handle the pressure of a .308 load? |
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Thank you all for the input. So 7.62x51 brass will not handle the pressure of a .308 load? Quoted:
Thank you all for the input. Quoted:
Most of the listed loads are for .308 commercial cases. If you are making ammo using 7.62x51 Milsurp cases, reduce listed charges by 1-2 grains. (from the Sierra #V) That's about all I got. So 7.62x51 brass will not handle the pressure of a .308 load? No that is not the reason. Most 7.62x51 brass has less internal capacity due to thicker case walls. The smaller volume causes higher pressures so less powder is required to achieve the same results. There are limits of course but for most standard loadings this is true. |
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No that is not the reason. Most 7.62x51 brass has less internal capacity due to thicker case walls. The smaller volume causes higher pressures so less powder is required to achieve the same results. There are limits of course but for most standard loadings this is true. Gotcha. Thank you sir. |
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Nice shop. I wish I was as neat as you are.
I like H4895 and a 168 Hornady AMAX grain bullet most prefer Varget but my loads are way better than my shooting and H4895 seems a bit easier to get. I can shoot out to 600 with that set up. You will find powder doesn't last as long with 40-45 grain charges and by all means get the best brass you can and get a neck sizing die so your brass last longer. Next summer I will invest in some Lapua brass. It lasts for years if you neck size and will be consistent. Did I mention your days of buying one pound at a timer may be over? |
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Nice shop. I wish I was as neat as you are. I like H4895 and a 168 Hornady AMAX grain bullet most prefer Varget but my loads are way better than my shooting and H4895 seems a bit easier to get. I can shoot out to 600 with that set up. You will find powder doesn't last as long with 40-45 grain charges and by all means get the best brass you can and get a neck sizing die so your brass last longer. Next summer I will invest in some Lapua brass. It lasts for years if you neck size and will be consistent. Did I mention your days of buying one pound at a timer may be over? Thank you. If I went out and took a picture now you wouldn't say it was neat. 
Neck sizing die is on the way and you didn't have to remind me about the powder.  I know what i'm going to tell every one to get me for the b-day and christmas. 8# jugs
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Quoted:
Hello everyone. I have been reloading .223 since the beginning of the year and I have had no major problems. I recently purchased a Remington 700 in .308 and want to start making some quality loads for .308. I would like suggestions pertaining to what you guys have learned about making precision ammo so my learning curve wont be that bad.
This is my current setup. http://i1355.photobucket.com/albums/q718/kylej86/20130607_215935_zps4d967bdc.jpg Lee LoadMaster, Lee three hole turret press, Dillon super swage 600, Lyman pro 1200 tumbler My recent order for reloading .308. 308 WIN LEE CASE LENGTH GAUGE/SHELLHOLDER, LEE .308 WIN DELUXE RIFLE 3 DIE SET, LEE .308 WIN FACTORY CRIMP DIE, and LEE PERFECT POWDER MEASURE Is that Lee case length gauge for their Zip Trim? If yes, watch it. The rod will wear down and your cases will get shorter as time goes by. I ditched the Zip trim and went with LE Wilson trimmer. Takes a minute to set up, but get very consistent trim length. Still use Lee tool for debur/chamfer. B |
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I have two loads that do really well in my 20" 1:10: CCI BR2 43 gr Varget 178 AMAX Fed 210M 43.3 gr IMR4064 178 AMAX Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a similar rifle, and I've had good luck with: CCI BR primers 43.4gr IMR4064 (Sierra Manual Max Load- I believe) 168gr SMK I have two loads that do really well in my 20" 1:10: CCI BR2 43 gr Varget 178 AMAX Fed 210M 43.3 gr IMR4064 178 AMAX Thank you sir. |
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Is that Lee case length gauge for their Zip Trim? If yes, watch it. The rod will wear down and your cases will get shorter as time goes by. I ditched the Zip trim and went with LE Wilson trimmer. Takes a minute to set up, but get very consistent trim length. Still use Lee tool for debur/chamfer. B Not the zip trim but it is the one that attaches to a drill so I guess same problem. I just looked at the LE Wilson and it looks nice. |
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I am averaging .640MOA(@100yds) using surplus brass with my 700 stock trigger, bbl,bolt in a HS stock. My barrel is a 1/12 twist 20".
I FULL LENGTH size, uniform pockets, chamfer flash hole both sides, put a good sized chamfer in the case mouth so I don't shave the jacket, don't crimp. Measure OAL at the ogive, seat the primer with care for consistent depth(-.006" +/-.002), seat bullet with care for +/-.0005" OAL. Concentrate on doing every step perfectly consistent round after round. I bought a Hornady headspace gage that mounts to my caliper so I can minimally size my cases by comparing with fired cases from my gun. My load 168 Nosler Custom Comps 40.6 gr 2230 210m primers LC11 brass 2600fps @ ~93degrees 13.2 SD |
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Quoted:
I am averaging .640MOA(@100yds) using surplus brass with my 700 stock trigger, bbl,bolt in a HS stock. My barrel is a 1/12 twist 20". I FULL LENGTH size, uniform pockets, chamfer flash hole both sides, put a good sized chamfer in the case mouth so I don't shave the jacket, don't crimp. Measure OAL at the ogive, seat the primer with care for consistent depth(-.006" +/-.002), seat bullet with care for +/-.0005" OAL. Concentrate on doing every step perfectly consistent round after round. I bought a Hornady headspace gage that mounts to my caliper so I can minimally size my cases by comparing with fired cases from my gun. My load 168 Nosler Custom Comps 40.6 gr 2230 210m primers LC11 brass 2600fps @ ~93degrees 13.2 SD Thank you for the info. |
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My pet load for my Rem 700 Tactical (20")
Nosler #30165 165gr Ballistic tip RP (REM) .308w Brass CCI #200 LR Primer W748 45.0gr OAL: 2.802" No crimp Avg:2650fps 18mm group@100m Just be aware that these pills do a tremendous amount of damage to most medium sized game, I wouldn't use it on anything bigger than Red deer. |
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ETA- Your bench is waaay to neat! Keep it that way if you're able.
I suggest you make your own targets; I use a 2" square with a 1" square center with 2 on the paper as my load work up sheet. just one load per target, When working up loads I'll load 10 rounds per charge weight. I'll staple up 4-6 of those targets. I'll shoot a 5 round group on the top square of each target going up in powder charge from page to page. Then I repeat it with each charge's second set of 5 cartrdges on the second (lower) set of squares on each page. Each charge weight has it's own page with two groups. Look for the patterns in the groups, the tightening up, the elevation staying consistent across 2 or 3 charge weights, etc. These are all clues as to where your load is stable. I also chronograph while doing all this. writing the chrono data shot by shot, AVG, SD, extreme spread for each group, Chrono data isn't gospel but it's a tool. if your choice is a stable consistent load at 300m or one less stable with better extreme spread and standard deviation numbers......go with the target paper as long as it's repeatable on paper! ETA2- a good bench technique is a must to be able to shoot the targets to decipher them. A good bench top tripod with sand bags is what most people use. Or just appropriately sized sandbags. My pet loads; Nosler 155 44.4 IMR4064 Fed 210match primers Black Hills brass (winchester made) 175 SMK 42.6 RL15 Fed 210Match Lapua brass IMR 4064 is an older powder, been around for decades but it works and works very well in the .308 win cartridge. Due to long stick length It's a pain to throw in a measure unless you just power through the crunch and trickle up to weight on a scale. It's a little dirty to some but it's quite accurate. |
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Quoted:
ETA- Your bench is waaay to neat! Keep it that way if you're able.
I suggest you make your own targets; I use a 2" square with a 1" square center with 2 on the paper as my load work up sheet. just one load per target, When working up loads I'll load 10 rounds per charge weight. I'll staple up 4-6 of those targets. I'll shoot a 5 round group on the top square of each target going up in powder charge from page to page. Then I repeat it with each charge's second set of 5 cartrdges on the second (lower) set of squares on each page. Each charge weight has it's own page with two groups. Look for the patterns in the groups, the tightening up, the elevation staying consistent across 2 or 3 charge weights, etc. These are all clues as to where your load is stable. I also chronograph while doing all this. writing the chrono data shot by shot, AVG, SD, extreme spread for each group, Chrono data isn't gospel but it's a tool. if your choice is a stable consistent load at 300m or one less stable with better extreme spread and standard deviation numbers......go with the target paper as long as it's repeatable on paper! ETA2- a good bench technique is a must to be able to shoot the targets to decipher them. A good bench top tripod with sand bags is what most people use. Or just appropriately sized sandbags. My pet loads; Nosler 155 44.4 IMR4064 Fed 210match primers Black Hills brass (winchester made) 175 SMK 42.6 RL15 Fed 210Match Lapua brass IMR 4064 is an older powder, been around for decades but it works and works very well in the .308 win cartridge. Due to long stick length It's a pain to throw in a measure unless you just power through the crunch and trickle up to weight on a scale. It's a little dirty to some but it's quite accurate. I will go ahead and tell you that picture was staged. I am unable to keep any work station tidy.
Thank you all for the replies. Keep them coming. Very good info out there. |
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