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Posted: 5/5/2013 11:19:31 AM EDT
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This might be normal, but it get on my last nerve.
How do you get the powder to not stick? 
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I've had the same problem. I tried using Bounce anti-static dryer sheets - they didn't work.
A friend told me that everytime I finish using my equipment, to clean it, and then give it a shot of spray on fabric softener, cut 50/50 with water. Then, wipe it down with a soft cloth and let it dry. The next time I used it, not a single grain stuck. There is no residue to foul the powder, either. I made it a regular habit. Give it a try! |
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Quoted:
http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu324/daclark1911/hornady%20-%20dillon%20tune/DSC02995.jpg http://i660.photobucket.com/albums/uu324/daclark1911/hornady%20-%20dillon%20tune/DSC02993.jpg That's caused by Hornady's powder coating. Both my Hornady PMs did same, cured by removing powder coat and polishing. dc. What did u use to remove the powder coat? |
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Quoted:
This might be normal, but it get on my last nerve. How do you get the powder to not stick? http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/JOKKER78/IMG_20130505_121034_080.jpg Add a ground wire if necessary. I've never seen powder stick to the metal parts of a measure like that. Is it clean? (That means no oil, grease, or wax on the surface.) |
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Quoted:
This might be normal, but it get on my last nerve. How do you get the powder to not stick? http://i1098.photobucket.com/albums/g372/JOKKER78/IMG_20130505_121034_080.jpg Was it brand new when you took the picture. When shipped, they put the rust-preventative spray in there and it can be a oily residue causing the powder to stick. |
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Try cleaning it with an alcohol swab. I think the degreaser you are using might leave a lubricant behind. I try not to use it on the areas that touch the powder.
I have a small, long handle craft type paint brush to brush the extra powder down the funnel when I change powders. Then I give it a couple blasts of compressed air (not from a can, from a compressor with a moisture filter) to make sure their is no residual. I didn't polish mine, so I get the same effect you do, although not as much. (I never realized you could unscrew the plastic hopper from the base. I thought it was glued. - Can you remove the one on an RCBS like that, too?) |
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Another "trick" is to wash everything in a strong mix of dish soap and water, then let it air dry. I don't know what's in dish soap to do that, but it helps.
If the problem is static electricity, wrap a dryer sheet around the measure body, folded so you can still see the level, and attached with rubber bands. |
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I've never had this issue. Here is what I did to mine. Took it all apart then washed in the sink using dawn detergent
Next dry it quickly with hair dryer as it will rust quickly. I then sprayed it down with hornady one shot and rubbed the light surface rust clean from it inside and out. Then I rubbed it down inside and out including the clear tube which I unscrewed with a new dryer sheet Once that was done I simply took min wax and rubbed it all over the metal parts inside and out let it dry to a haze then rub it all off to polish it. Your done no need to remove any paint My powder freely flows off the parts and never sticks to any of it Every few times when the plastic starts turning grey from powder ill take it apart and clean it with one shot then reapply min wax again as described |
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Titegroup?
I had that happen also its the chemical composition of TG, I let mine Hornady CAKE fully with TG and then lightly scraped off, left a silvery finish and since then that powder measure Is insanely accurate. Give it a try. PS I broke down measure before any usage and bathed everything in 100% Iso-alcohol |
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