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Posted: 4/3/2013 6:00:35 AM EDT
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As I have plenty of free time and somone is giving me a melting pot and dipper im thinking about learning to cast.
Two questions, midway has two molds with handles,one is a 6 cavity mold about two weeks from being in stock. The other is a 2 cavity about 10 weeks out,both in 356 for my 38 super. Which mold would be best for a newbie to start with? Second question is the lead, all I have currently is a 40 year collection of fishing sinkers of all weights and am asking if I add the proper additives will they work? About 30 pounds at least of those. The big question is which mold to learn with, as yes I will obtain a casting manual before starting....Thanks,dave |
| a 2 cavity will be easier to learn on. The sinker will depend on what they are. Start reading on http://castboolits.gunloads.com |
| The alloy needs to have a high BHN (15+), for full power loads listed @ Hodgdon website. Buy & add linotype to increase hardness & diameter of pure lead or wheel weights. Or try using just wheel weights with oven heat treating/water drop to harden alloys containing lead & antimony. See Alloy Blending chart here > Link I dont use Lee molds, but start with 2 cavity. |
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It depends on the material the molds are made from. Presumably, the six hole mold is aluminum. Usually, two hole molds are iron, but they can by many materials.
Aluminum molds are really good for beginners because they heat up much faster than iron molds. Even when beginning, you get a good bullet or two almost immediately out of a six hole mold. Go with that one. The lead you have is really junk. You want to have control over your alloy and junk lead prevents this. Sinkers are the end of the line for scrap lead and left overs. It is usually way too hard for good results. I would strongly recommend you begin your adventure with certified alloy. 20/1 Lead/Tin will ensure early success. You can gradually melt your sinkers into known alloy in the future and gradually use it up in that way. |
| Thanks, that what I need know about the lead sinkers, will start check for other lead... I used to work on a lot of late model dirt race cars and we always had lead that we placed on the frame to balance it out, maybe thats better? probably not, will read more before starting and find some known lead,thanks |
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Quoted:
Thanks, that what I need know about the lead sinkers, will start check for other lead... I used to work on a lot of late model dirt race cars and we always had lead that we placed on the frame to balance it out, maybe thats better? probably not, will read more before starting and find some known lead,thanks By far the easiest thing to work with, as in alloy with your lead, is linotype. Linotype can be purchased on the web from the "usual" places. A 75/25 mix of lead and linotype will usually work fine for 38 special and 45 acp and most in between. The 9mm needs to be a little harder. This is for typical light target style loads. You can mix any ratio you want. You could even shoot straight linotype but there is really no benefit. |
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Quoted:
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Thanks, that what I need know about the lead sinkers, will start check for other lead... I used to work on a lot of late model dirt race cars and we always had lead that we placed on the frame to balance it out, maybe thats better? probably not, will read more before starting and find some known lead,thanks By far the easiest thing to work with, as in alloy with your lead, is linotype. Linotype can be purchased on the web from the "usual" places. A 75/25 mix of lead and linotype will usually work fine for 38 special and 45 acp and most in between. The 9mm needs to be a little harder. This is for typical light target style loads. You can mix any ratio you want. You could even shoot straight linotype but there is really no benefit. Will be looking to get around 1200fps. without a gas check...Some of my corbon fmjh 115 gr. say 1450 fps out of the 38 super but thinking about plinkers,thanks |
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As I have plenty of free time and somone is giving me a melting pot and dipper im thinking about learning to cast. Two questions, midway has two molds with handles,one is a 6 cavity mold about two weeks from being in stock. The other is a 2 cavity about 10 weeks out,both in 356 for my 38 super. Which mold would be best for a newbie to start with? Second question is the lead, all I have currently is a 40 year collection of fishing sinkers of all weights and am asking if I add the proper additives will they work? About 30 pounds at least of those. The big question is which mold to learn with, as yes I will obtain a casting manual before starting....Thanks,dave Not exactly. The Lee six(6) cavity molds do NOT come with handles. The Lee two(2) cavity do, but NOT the six. The wood handle you see in the photo of the Six cavity mold is not a handle it is a Cam operated Spur plat handle, you still NEED to purchase a set of handles. |
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If you insist on buying a Lee mold get the 2 cav. They are easy to work with and cheap enough you wont feel stupid if you mess up the mold or decide you dont like the hobby. Also, as a new caster you will definately make mistakes...other words it will normally take a while to get a feel for what you are doing....hasseling with a big heavy mold will wear on your wrists over a short time. Trust me on this. Go small, easy, cheap, and lightweight to start with. The Lee 6 cav molds have had handle issues in the past...just something a new caster doesnt need to have to think about.
you cant go wrong with a 2-cav starter mold that only costs 20 bucks. if you should burn your fingers and get mad you wont feel so bad if you get pissed and throw the mold across the yard...it was only 20 bucks! 
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 I'm having great luck with my 6 cavity molds. The handles are not expensive. Nothing at all wrong with your sinker lead. You will need to mix it with a harder alloy if you want to push bullets faster than 1000 fps. How about a free casting manual you can read or copy off yourself? http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm I learned a lot from this manual. Best thing was learning that sawdust makes a superior flux.  The Lyman is also a good manual, $20 most places. Welcome to another hobby.
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When I started casting just over a year ago, I went cheap on all fronts... Lee aluminum 2 cavity molds, cast iron pots, scrounged propane burner, cheap & small ladle - no regrets at all. I know I'll upgrade someday, but after 6,700 boolits loaded (and based on what I see in the closet waiting to be loaded, probably 10,000 cast), I have no regrets. The only upgrade was a few weeks ago - a powder coating system from Harbor Freight which, from the testing being done, appears to eliminate the need for boolit lube.
As you've already heard, there is a lot to read & learn but it isn't difficult. Small learning curve, but if you make bad boolits you can just toss them back and remake them. I learned all I needed to know between the manual Dryflash linked to, the Castboolits site and here. |
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Thank's for the advice. I may order both the six and two cavity mold. Also remembered that I had around 30+ lbs. of already cast bullets left from the early 90s. The one's I do not plan on ever using and/our selling are the 40 cal. and 200 gr.swc. for 45 acp. that I tried in the older glocks and went with fmj after awhile. Also have some 90 gr. 380 in the pile.
Im sure if I could sell them it would be the best option but they are all in coffee cans now without labels and just plain old. I know they where all Bullseye brand with a band of blue lube on them, just may be to big a pita to move them. Will these work for starters? They guy next door has a wood shop so I can get any flavor of sawdust by the buckets full.Lube and sizing die and manual on order also... 
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Quoted:
Thank's for the advice. I may order both the six and two cavity mold. Also remembered that I had around 30+ lbs. of already cast bullets left from the early 90s. The one's I do not plan on ever using and/our selling are the 40 cal. and 200 gr.swc. for 45 acp. that I tried in the older glocks and went with fmj after awhile. Also have some 90 gr. 380 in the pile. Im sure if I could sell them it would be the best option but they are all in coffee cans now without labels and just plain old. I know they where all Bullseye brand with a band of blue lube on them, just may be to big a pita to move them. Will these work for starters? They guy next door has a wood shop so I can get any flavor of sawdust by the buckets full.Lube and sizing die and manual on order also... Old bullets that you can't swap can be melted and recast. The old lube will help flux and smoke away. |
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Quoted: Thank's for the advice. I may order both the six and two cavity mold. Also remembered that I had around 30+ lbs. of already cast bullets left from the early 90s. The one's I do not plan on ever using and/our selling are the 40 cal. and 200 gr.swc. for 45 acp. that I tried in the older glocks and went with fmj after awhile. Also have some 90 gr. 380 in the pile. Im sure if I could sell them it would be the best option but they are all in coffee cans now without labels and just plain old. I know they where all Bullseye brand with a band of blue lube on them, just may be to big a pita to move them. Will these work for starters? They guy next door has a wood shop so I can get any flavor of sawdust by the buckets full.Lube and sizing die and manual on order also... You want to know if you can load the old bullets? If the lube is still on them, load them up. If not, lube them yourself.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Thank's for the advice. I may order both the six and two cavity mold. Also remembered that I had around 30+ lbs. of already cast bullets left from the early 90s. The one's I do not plan on ever using and/our selling are the 40 cal. and 200 gr.swc. for 45 acp. that I tried in the older glocks and went with fmj after awhile. Also have some 90 gr. 380 in the pile. Im sure if I could sell them it would be the best option but they are all in coffee cans now without labels and just plain old. I know they where all Bullseye brand with a band of blue lube on them, just may be to big a pita to move them. Will these work for starters? They guy next door has a wood shop so I can get any flavor of sawdust by the buckets full.Lube and sizing die and manual on order also... You want to know if you can load the old bullets? If the lube is still on them, load them up. If not, lube them yourself. I do have .357 and .356 lead cast from the same time frame that I reload so I know they are still good. Just thought I could remelt the one's I no longer use to get started. With the free melting pot and dipper I was thinking I could try this for under a 100$ worth of dies and molds. I see the six molds have 3 handles, was thinking I could rotate the two mould handles but looks as if I may need a third handle ? thanks |
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Quoted: Just looks like 3 handles.Quoted: Quoted: Thank's for the advice. I may order both the six and two cavity mold. Also remembered that I had around 30+ lbs. of already cast bullets left from the early 90s. The one's I do not plan on ever using and/our selling are the 40 cal. and 200 gr.swc. for 45 acp. that I tried in the older glocks and went with fmj after awhile. Also have some 90 gr. 380 in the pile. Im sure if I could sell them it would be the best option but they are all in coffee cans now without labels and just plain old. I know they where all Bullseye brand with a band of blue lube on them, just may be to big a pita to move them. Will these work for starters? They guy next door has a wood shop so I can get any flavor of sawdust by the buckets full.Lube and sizing die and manual on order also... You want to know if you can load the old bullets? If the lube is still on them, load them up. If not, lube them yourself. I do have .357 and .356 lead cast from the same time frame that I reload so I know they are still good. Just thought I could remelt the one's I no longer use to get started. With the free melting pot and dipper I was thinking I could try this for under a 100$ worth of dies and molds. I see the six molds have 3 handles, was thinking I could rotate the two mould handles but looks as if I may need a third handle ? thanks 2 regular handles, other "handle" is connected to the spru plate to cut off the end of the lead from the base of the bullet. Comes with the mold. 2 cavity molds you use a mallet to strike spru plate, Lee 6 cavity mold use a "handle" for this function. This is what you buy, they are $15 if you catch a sale. Sure meld down your own old bullets to get started. |
My bullet making project has taken a differerent path now. The Pot and pouring ladle that I tought was going to be electeric turns out to be an antique set up.... A cast iorn pot that holds 32 oz. of water and a 15 in. ladle that holds 4 oz. of water
The set up was deffefinetly set up for bullet casting , but it is at least a hundered year's old. I have the heat burner's that will work but now have to add a therm. to the list. I guess when you are at a river bar talking reloading it would help to ask how old that stuff is  ...I will make it work...
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I'm sure many of us started with equipment just like that; when I started, my father mounted an old electric hot-plate on a tip-proof base and gave it to me for my casting. He also gave me an old cast iron glue pot, so all I had to buy was a mold and dipper.
Good times, casting 400 grain .45-70 bullets for my trapdoor Springfield.
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Quoted: My bullet making project has taken a differerent path now. The Pot and pouring ladle that I tought was going to be electeric turns out to be an antique set up.... A cast iorn pot that holds 32 oz. of water and a 15 in. ladle that holds 4 oz. of water The set up was deffefinetly set up for bullet casting , but it is at least a hundered year's old. I have the heat burner's that will work but now have to add a therm. to the list. I guess when you are at a river bar talking reloading it would help to ask how old that stuff is ...I will make it work...What that is for is smelting, turning scrap lead into fluxed (cleaned) lead ingots. Then your ingots are melted in an electric casting pot to cast bullets.
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