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Posted: 3/16/2013 4:57:03 PM EDT
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I'm not loading for accuracy and using 25 grain with 55 g projectile. I have a 2000 or so brass of various head stamps. 1. Do I have to separate brands before swaying or can I swage away? I am only loading for range practice. 2. Have you ever just swaged brass without concern for brand? 3. What is the worst that can happen? Thanks.
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I've always sort by headstamp. It seems that each headstamp needs a little more/less swaging. I've ran into some LC08 that needed more swaging than other LC brass.
As to address what bad could happen- either you don't swage it enough, and can't seat a primer; or you swage it too much and the primer pocket is too loose, therefore effective ruining the case for further .223 applications. Regardless of what I written, once you start swaging to the proper depth, you'll get a feel for what it takes. I'll swage a few cases, then try to seat a primer- and then make adjustments. Those who are experienced with the swager don't sort. They just do it by feel. But, I'm not there yet. |
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Spend the time and sort your brass by head stamps (manufacturer and year). Web thickness will vary by manufacturer and year, and to get a consistent swage you will need to adjust the case support rod for each to get the pocket tension correct.
Remember you will only ever need to do it once over the case life, so take the time and do it right. 
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Ok, I have sorted out a few hundred to begin with. 1. When I swage, am I removing the small ring in the pocket?
2. Is it OK to assume that if there remains a ring, that the brass has not been swaged and is only ONCE FIRED? 3. Is a sign of a good swage is the removal of the ring? |
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Quoted: I don't sort by head stamp for swaging. Since I set the Dillon up I have not made any changes and have had no problems after thousands of mixed head stamp brass ran through it. The primer pocket reamer uni-former removes more material then the swager swages. Those are 2 different tools, and used correctly work well. But like anything else, can be misused.
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