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Posted: 1/27/2013 2:27:50 PM EDT
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I'm going to start reloading 10mm anything special you guys can tell me about this caliber? I'm going to use a lee turret press and their carbide die set with the crimp die.
The bullets that I have are Hornady XTP 200 grain and Nosler 200 grain JHP neither have a cannelure, so any suggestions about crimping would be great. Powder will be Accurate #9. Rounds will be fired out of a pair of glocks a 20 and a 29. I already reload 223 and 9mm. THANKS!! |
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With 40 S&W and 10mm I use a size die that you push the case through so that the base of it is resized also I use Unique lube in the little butter tub. I typically first run the brass through a carbide size die which decaps then second stage I run the brass through this size die the pushes them all the way through so that any portion the shell holder might prevent being resized gets done. This may or may not be needed but I sure would hate to have one jam in the chamber. I also put primer sealer on the primers after loading cartridges other than that should be about the same as other calibers. I am usually very careful with brass prep and clean the primer pockets and check the flash hole so I do some stages on a single stage then load these in a progressive. |
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Link With 40 S&W and 10mm I use a size die that you push the case through so that the base of it is resized also I use Unique lube in the little butter tub. I typically first run the brass through a carbide size die which decaps then second stage I run the brass through this size die the pushes them all the way through so that any portion the shell holder might prevent being resized gets done. This may or may not be needed but I sure would hate to have one jam in the chamber. I also put primer sealer on the primers after loading cartridges other than that should be about the same as other calibers. I am usually very careful with brass prep and clean the primer pockets and check the flash hole so I do some stages on a single stage then load these in a progressive. Does hornady have this push through die? And is it really needed for 10mm? |
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Link With 40 S&W and 10mm I use a size die that you push the case through so that the base of it is resized also I use Unique lube in the little butter tub. I typically first run the brass through a carbide size die which decaps then second stage I run the brass through this size die the pushes them all the way through so that any portion the shell holder might prevent being resized gets done. This may or may not be needed but I sure would hate to have one jam in the chamber. I also put primer sealer on the primers after loading cartridges other than that should be about the same as other calibers. I am usually very careful with brass prep and clean the primer pockets and check the flash hole so I do some stages on a single stage then load these in a progressive. Does hornady have this push through die? And is it really needed for 10mm? Depending on your barrel chamber, if it's not fully supported then yes, a push through die is recomended anyway to insure proper function. Some fired cases end up with bulges near the extractor groove. And taper crimping is the best way to go, just like 45 ACP. |
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Link With 40 S&W and 10mm I use a size die that you push the case through so that the base of it is resized also I use Unique lube in the little butter tub. I typically first run the brass through a carbide size die which decaps then second stage I run the brass through this size die the pushes them all the way through so that any portion the shell holder might prevent being resized gets done. This may or may not be needed but I sure would hate to have one jam in the chamber. I also put primer sealer on the primers after loading cartridges other than that should be about the same as other calibers. I am usually very careful with brass prep and clean the primer pockets and check the flash hole so I do some stages on a single stage then load these in a progressive. Does hornady have this push through die? And is it really needed for 10mm? Depending on your barrel chamber, if it's not fully supported then yes, a push through die is recomended anyway to insure proper function. Some fired cases end up with bulges near the extractor groove. And taper crimping is the best way to go, just like 45 ACP. and full lengths don't push that back in? I thought they went right down to the head. |
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Link With 40 S&W and 10mm I use a size die that you push the case through so that the base of it is resized also I use Unique lube in the little butter tub. I typically first run the brass through a carbide size die which decaps then second stage I run the brass through this size die the pushes them all the way through so that any portion the shell holder might prevent being resized gets done. This may or may not be needed but I sure would hate to have one jam in the chamber. I also put primer sealer on the primers after loading cartridges other than that should be about the same as other calibers. I am usually very careful with brass prep and clean the primer pockets and check the flash hole so I do some stages on a single stage then load these in a progressive. Does hornady have this push through die? And is it really needed for 10mm? Depending on your barrel chamber, if it's not fully supported then yes, a push through die is recomended anyway to insure proper function. Some fired cases end up with bulges near the extractor groove. And taper crimping is the best way to go, just like 45 ACP. and full lengths don't push that back in? I thought they went right down to the head. I use the EGW sizing die to knock down the belly in my forty brass. I haven't checked on the ten though . Yep it works on both ...... http://www.egwguns.com/undersized-reloading-dies/undersized-reloading-dies/ A must for the serious reloader: EGW offers custom designed, carbide sizing dies that are 0.001" smaller in diameter than typical dies. Not only is it smaller in diameter, the bottom corner is radiused which sizes the case further down. This helps prevent feed failures from cases that bulged near the base during reloading- which is typical of brass fired in Glocks and other loose chambered guns. The dies are made out of carbide.
Undersized Reloading Dies will work with a Dillon Press if they are 550, 650, or 1050. They will not work if they are squared. Why does my die have Lee packaging? Lee Precision, Inc manufacturers the dies to our specifications, meaning these dies are made solely for us. The Lee dies you can buy from other suppliers are not the EGW undersized dies. |
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wow....midway has the redding on backorder until early april. Grafs has a couple of the steel ones. I have one, it works well, but you have to lube the cases. http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/16318 |
When I bought the 10mm dies from Lee I also got the "Bulge buster" but when I read the instructions they said not to use it on cases to be used in .40 s&w Glock or similar guns with unsupported chambers, no explanation as to why, just the note in bold print on the instruction sheet. 
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wow....midway has the redding on backorder until early april. Grafs has a couple of the steel ones. I have one, it works well, but you have to lube the cases. http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/16318 awesome....now i just need the adaptor to get into stock at midway :-) ordered this one, the other would be nice, but hey...i can lube NP. God this hobby is getting expensive....i best reload my butt off. (doesnt help i'm going full bore getting everything I need/want right off the bat) 
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When I bought the 10mm dies from Lee I also got the "Bulge buster" but when I read the instructions they said not to use it on cases to be used in .40 s&w Glock or similar guns with unsupported chambers, no explanation as to why, just the note in bold print on the instruction sheet. Older Glocks had unsupported chambers. Fired brass came out with a "Bulge" and the base. Pushing the case through the die removes the bulge. Something a sizing die cannot do completely. |
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When I bought the 10mm dies from Lee I also got the "Bulge buster" but when I read the instructions they said not to use it on cases to be used in .40 s&w Glock or similar guns with unsupported chambers, no explanation as to why, just the note in bold print on the instruction sheet. Older Glocks had unsupported chambers. Fired brass came out with a "Bulge" and the base. Pushing the case through the die removes the bulge. Something a sizing die cannot do completely. What he said. Newer ones are improved. I use the bulge buster on .45 ACP and 40 SW. For the most part there is very little resistance (indicating very little bulge). My 45 brass usually comes from a Glock 21. Most of the 40 SW comes from a Springfield XD, but some from newer Glocks. If you use your Lee 40 FCD for crimping and decide to get the bulge buster I'd recommend buying a second 40 FCD. It eliminates the hassle of taking the FCD apart every time to switch it between crimping and busting. |
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Older Glocks had unsupported chambers. Fired brass came out with a "Bulge" and the base. Pushing the case through the die removes the bulge. Something a sizing die cannot do completely. All Glocks have unsupported chambers. Newer ones have much more support though, and bulge the brass much less. |
| I have never needed the FCD or pass through dies. There isn't really a need unless you are trying to load brass of unknown origin for a super-tight chamber. It is pretty straight-forward to reload for 10mm. Tapercrimp to an OAL that will feed in your gun. I load n a Lee turret w/ Lee dies, no factory crimp die in the process. Other powders will give similar or better speed and economy than #9, but it is a solid choice for the heavier bullets. |
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