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Posted: 1/4/2013 8:26:58 AM EDT
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So i'm back and forth on setting up to reload...considering at this time i've only shot about 500 rounds in 90 days i'm thinking it would be cheaper to just go with a basic starter single stage AND...it
would give me pretty much all the extras i'd have to purchase anyhow like the scale, bullet puller, etc.....My dies would be a wash since they would cross over to the progressive. I would just need to add a gage checker and a trimmer which i have to do anyhow. I'm thinking one of these three kits... http://www.midwayusa.com/product/749997/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-single-stage-press-kit http://www.midwayusa.com/product/149937/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-single-stage-press-deluxe-kit http://www.midwayusa.com/product/151386/hornady-lock-n-load-classic-single-stage-press-kit-with-one-shot-non-hazardous-case-lube-pump-spray I guess my questions are...should i just go full bore and shell out for a progressive or do you guys that reload all the time still use a single stage anyhow? The one thing i'm liking about the single stage is i can decrimp my crimped .223 rounds with a cheap die instead of the dillion 600. Plus I could do things in stages as I have time I could prime everything and throw it into a bucket until such time i'm ready to drop powder and drop the round. I'm assuming these powder dispensers are going to be the same as their progressive press kit and are hopefully +/- a grain. As i'd like pretty consistent loads. My intentions to reload are to take my .223 rounds and load some to the M193 specs and others to the M855 specs. Majority probably to M193 and these would be my plinkers. Additionally I would load 9mm rounds mostly lead for training/practice and then some defensive rounds. These would need to be at 124g -147g as Kimber directly calls out for these, though...i've had zero issues or FTF/F issues using 115g. 95% would just be fun and plinking loads the remainder would be my defensive carry load meant for max damage (being new..i have no idea as of yet just want powder/bullet would meet this requirement). But that's the jest of how i'd use my ammo so maybe that helps gather better advice from you guys that have been doing this for a long time! Guess i'm seeing full setup for progressive to do the job right will be about 1200 and maybe 6-700 ish for the single stage(thinking case work and all to do quality safe reloads) - thanks for reading and your responses. |
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I've got the Hornady single stage press and went through your dilemma about a year ago. 2 schools of thought, you're going to get e progressive eventually so just start with it. The other, learn the details of reloading on a single then upgrade. So I went with the single and I'm glad I did. I've only loaded .223 for now and there has been a slight learning curve to get things going. Stuck cases, broken decapping pins, scale failures, experimenting with loads etc. The scale that comes with the L&L is junk, it wasn't accurate so I replaced it last week (finally) with an RCBS 1500 digital. The spray lube, if you follow the directions doesn't lube the cases enough so do smaller batches and squirt em down good. Give the sizing die a squirt too. While trying to size some of my 5.56 cases, there were some primers that were so tight I broke the decapping pin multiple times. After some kind gents here pointed me to the Lee universal decapping die, I've had no more problems. Instead of breaking, the entire pin pushes up and disengages. You simply reset the die with a couple wrenches and you're back in business. Also, by saving some money on the progressive you can get a couple extra's that will help you, 1. a headspace gauge. I was having an issue with some reloads getting stuck in my Daniel Defense chamber, it's a bit tight. After gauging the rounds, I have eliminated that issue. 2. get a Chrony. I just picked one up on Wed and went to test 3 new loads. Factory XM193 was running just shy of 2900 FPS. Only my Varget load was getting close, but still a little light in comparison. 3. Get a better scale, as mentioned above. I will eventually get a progressive, either the L&L so I can use my dies with the quick change bushings (I really like em) or my dad has been talking about getting a Dillon, so we'll see. But regardless, I'll still use the single for load development and for precision loads for my .308. Hope this helps. |
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The idea of starting with a single stage is prudent IMO, but save your money for a progressive in a year or two, depending on how addicted you get to churning out ammo. Yes, people start out with progressives every day. But again, IMO, they miss out on developing the love of perfection, and the patience for it too, not to mention it's less aggravating to learn. You'll use less antiacids. ;).....and you will always need a single station press.
I will always cherish the memories I have of progressive learning curves. My friend brought a Dillon 650 and asked me to come over and see a demonstration. Five minutes into it, there was 100 primers on the floor and powder everywhere....in the shell plate, the out bin, and the floor. Several months later I demoed my brand new RCBS Pro 2000 to him. 10 minutes later I had 50 perfectly made rounds of .308 made....or so I thought. The last 25 had no primers........forgot to add a primer strip.  Both events were cause by learning curves and over exuberant excitement.
I will always have a single. Mine is used daily, even though my actual finished ammo is done on my progressive.....well except for new calibers I play with, that aren't set up for the big guy yet. To be honest, my taste for a single varies with yours....but of course what's right for me isn't important. 
But, if were starting today instead of 40+ years ago, I'd be tempted pretty strong, to buy Lee's Classic Cast Turret. Hell, I may yet buy one.  Then again, I'd probably still want a single station first. So then, the choice (for me) would be between the Lee Classic Cast single, or the RCBS Rock Chucker. The Rock Chucker kits are unbeatable for a guy starting out, but then buying the Lee doesn't mean I can't buy the better RCBS peripheral tools from Midway or Grafs, separately.
Hornady's? Personally, I've just never been impressed with aluminum presses from anybody....Hornady, Lee, or RCBS. They break eventually. The greatest warranty still doesn't cover the annoyance of down time. The only time you read about a cast iron press breaking is when it's dropped on a concrete floor, or its misused to swage something that takes 3 men and a boy to stroke the handle. |
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If you stay in the hobby and you have a reasonable budget then you'll end up with both single and progressive presses. Heck, you might even find that different brands can co-exist on the same bench. If you are mechanically inclined then a progressive is fine to start with, otherwise go with a single.
There's no right or wrong answers here. Find a good price and take the plunge. |
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I've been reloading for decades, and I load all my pistol ammo on a Dillion Square Deal, it's fast and simple, and only loads pistol ammo. I load all my rifle ammo on a single stage, and do it in batchs, I size all my brass, then clean them in the case cleaner, then prime them with my Lee handprimer, then use a Lyman powder measure to charge cases, and then seat the bullets.
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I learned a lot - and still do - from using a turret, in my case Lee. With inexpensive spare turrets, caliber changes and switching from single stage to auto-index take maybe 30 seconds. I also learned that for 223 and 30-06 I prefer to hand prime and batch process, weighing each charge with a dispenser/scale combo For pistol, I will often go completely on-press but sometimes will process like rifle for accuracy.
The (Lee Classic) turret put possible production speed in between single-stage and progressive and saved enough money to cover the other toys like the dispense/scale that make reloading accurate and fun. YMMV. |
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I never progressed to progressive. But my needs really never made it necessary. I have loaded a LOT of ammo in my career but most is spread over many different calibers. Of course there are a few calibers that get loaded regularly.
Most of my high volume loading was for rifle competition and I really don't think a progressive would have been the best choice. I'm with the "start single stage" crowd with this one. Just my 2c. Old school I guess. |
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Sir, you really need to learn how to hot link. Almost nobody will bother with a cold link. If your using the basic editor, click on the paperclip on the globe Icon. Fill in the windows and click on OK. Experiment. Click on the Preview button to see if your efforts are working. Start with a SS, GWhis has a great post as to why. Don't be obsessed with a dupe/clone mil load. With handloads you can get much better (accurate) ammo. (better quality bullets) Powder/bullet combo's. Like asking what is the best car/truck. Lot's of opinions. Best thing to do is study the loads on Hodgdon's and Ramshot's sites, and the ones given in Lyman, Sierra, and Hornady manuals. For a good load to learn with I recommend, Hornady 55 gr FMJBT, the best quality bullet of this type. Or other 55 gr FMJ substitute. Tac, CFE-223, IMR-8208 XBR, all measure well through a powder measure. H-335 is also ok. SR primer of your choice. Wolf 5.56 SRM, Win SR, Rem 7 1/2, CCI 450, CCI 41. Follow reloading data, plenty out there. Begin at "start" load and work up watching for pressure signs. OAL 2.20-2.30. Bullet seated to mid cannelure. OAL depends on your trim length. Crimp is optional with good neck tension. I lightly crimp my 55 gr FMJ's. Primer crimp can also be removed by reaming. Can be chucked in a drill. The Hornady reamer is $10, and has a positive stop so you can't ream too deep. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/253550/hornady-primer-pocket-reamer-cutter-head-small You are pretty close with your cost estimates. |
| I got a Lee single stage when I first started. Two weeks later I realized I should have bought a pogressive. I'm glad I have both though. I like the control of a single for precision loads and I like being able to crank out copious amounts of 9mm and .223plinking loads. |
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Auto advance presses are a bad idea for new reloaders, with one exception, folks that work on complicated mechanisms such as packaging lines where several processes occur simultaneously.
There are lots of steps occurring at one time and when some step screws up, and it will, the press wants to advance anyway. That generally magnifies the problems and probably causes more than one step to get out of whack. Learn the basics on a single stage, LEE Classic Turret, or a manual advance 550 or RCBS Pro 2000, then move on to an auto advance machine after gaining experience. The Pro 2000 can be modified for auto advance now; it's a great press. Here's a secret about manual and automatic advance progressive reloading presses. The processing speed is limited by handling of components (cases and bullets) if case or bullet feeders are not installed. |
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Quoted:Here's a secret about progressive reloading presses. The processing speed is limited by handling of components (cases and bullets) if case or bullet feeders are not installed.
AeroE, I might be missing something regarding your secret with progressives. I have both a Lee Classic Turret and a XL650. I agree that without casefeeder/bulletfeeders, your processing time is limited by handling components. However, the progressive is still faster. I have to pull the handle 4 times on a Lee press to kick out 1 bullet. With all stations holding a case on the Dillon, every pull kicks out a round. |
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lots of good feedback so far. As for skill set....i'm not too worried about using even the most difficult of presses as I can read instructions and am extremely mechanically inclined.
Went looking around today are some stuff over at adventure outdoors...unfortunately they only had minimal stuff and 1 single press at all. ZERO .224 rounds...powders well...i saw info on all these other rounds on their lables but nothing specific to .223. I imagine pretty much anything will work if you find a cross index lookup on the load you need for that powder. Looks like primers and bullets are also hell to find right now and for how long is anyones guess, they were asking $900 for (in stock) m855 and 700.00 for 200 rounds of hornady...goodness....glad i have 2k rounds stockpiled. Well...at least with the price craze it just gives me more time to research and determine what's optimal to begin with. |
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Quoted:Here's a secret about progressive reloading presses. The processing speed is limited by handling of components (cases and bullets) if case or bullet feeders are not installed.
AeroE, I might be missing something regarding your secret with progressives. I have both a Lee Classic Turret and a XL650. I agree that without casefeeder/bulletfeeders, your processing time is limited by handling components. However, the progressive is still faster. I have to pull the handle 4 times on a Lee press to kick out 1 bullet. With all stations holding a case on the Dillon, every pull kicks out a round. That's a comparison of manual and auto advance progressive presses. The Lee turret you have is a hybrid of a single stage and progressive press and can't be compared against true progressive or single stage presses with regard to processing speed. |
| I just got a lee turret press and I like it a lot. I have used a rcbs single stage for an honest 30 years, and I wish now I had got the turret press a long time ago. You can use the turret as a single stage when you want. I am in the process now of selling my rcbs dies and changing over to the lee dies for the pistol calibers. You really need the powder thru expander dies to reach the full potential of the auto indexing mode. I really like the lee factory crimp dies too. |
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Even with the Dillon 550b on my bench, my single stage still gets used at least as often. You'll never progress (pun intended) past needing a good single stage. +1. I too use my single stage alot, especially when working up a new load! And if you have never reloaded I wouldn't suggest starting with a progressive, too easy to let a mistake slip by you!! |
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What ever you decide to start with..You will want to have a single stage press available on your bench. There will always come a need for its use. I normally load with a turret and a progressive press. However all of my hunting rifle cartridges and development load are crafted with my Rock Chucker.
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I'm still waiting for this question.
Quantity vs Quality ? A progressive can crank crap just as fast as quality. Unless you know how to tune each die to work simultaneously within a progressive index and produce a consistent run of cartridges you won't have quality. We have more masters of machines in this forum or any reloading forum than we have quality cartridge handloaders. Assess your performance expectations, could be pulling a handle will produce what you want. We set the bar within our own operations. To really learn your die tuning, single stage, or a T7 style turret is the way to go. Lee turret works too but its geared more for pistol, having a floating tool head. We all sit at the same table in this forum but operate on different levels. Something for you to consider when soliciting advice. dc. |
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However, the progressive is still faster. I think his point was that an auto-advance press isn't any faster than a manual advance press unless the auto advance also has a case feeder and a bullet feeder installed. The manual advance isn't the limiting factor on output. |
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What ever you decide to start with..You will want to have a single stage press available on your bench. There will always come a need for its use. I normally load with a turret and a progressive press. However all of my hunting rifle cartridges and development load are crafted with my Rock Chucker. I agree with this post... I started with a single stage and two weeks later, a dillon was on the way. I still use my single stage Rock Chucker a lot and I feel its best to have both on the reloading bench. If you do buy a progressive, USE IT AS A SINGLE STAGE till you get the hang of it. I would say at least 500 rounds min before you even think about using more than one station on your press. Start in small batch's at first, say maybe 10-20. Make sure they chamber, fire and extract properly before moving up in batch size. On a single, I work in batch's of a 100, they go real fast that way. Case prep is were most of the work is on rile brass. I can spend 6-8 hours prepping 700 case's and it only takes 60ish min's to load them. Why load to NATO pressures? All your doing to shortening the life of your brass. Most of my 223's are charged on the low side, less powder, less recoil, longer brass life. |
| I have both, actually thrice. Rock chucker, single stage Lee Classic and a Lee Classic Turret. Anything 5.56 through 7.62 NATO is run on my Turret. All else is sized on the single stages due to that floating head 1911 brought up. Turret does good, if your doing small rifle and pistol go for it. |
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I'm still waiting for this question. Quantity vs Quality ? hmmm....not a simple answer, but it's both. I'd like to know that i can pump out and refill my stock when i wanted and it was quality produced, not going to have failures or issues with it. Do i plan to perhaps reload like a sniper would? probably not, but i'd like to eventually know i could but thats through lots of time and learning like anything else. A progressive can crank crap just as fast as quality. Unless you know how to tune each die to work simultaneously within a progressive index and produce a consistent run of cartridges you won't have quality. not sure i understand this statement....regardless of machine, if your die is set to setting A. shouldnt that remain consistent round to round as long as your brass all started out the same (i.e. brass length and prep being critical)We have more masters of machines in this forum or any reloading forum than we have quality cartridge handloaders. Assess your performance expectations, could be pulling a handle will produce what you want. We set the bar within our own operations. To really learn your die tuning, single stage, or a T7 style turret is the way to go. Lee turret works too but its geared more for pistol, having a floating tool head. We all sit at the same table in this forum but operate on different levels. Something for you to consider when soliciting advice.thats always the case though...and i like to hear from everyone and through time you start to discover through the knowledge gained and your own additional research the products out there that will produce the results you expect for the price your willing to part with :-) dc. |
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ive started with a lee pro 1000 which came setup for 38/357 i then got it setup for 9mm with lee dies and i learned quite bit from those two . i bought rock chucker to load 223 and 30.06 so i can learn more slowly with rifle cases. i have about 6 loading manuals and supplement my info with a lot of the online loading data that is available. i lucked out when i first started because i got a bunch of powders (unopened) and assorted 38 bullets and other stuff from someone who had to get out of reloading. its been a fun learning experience so far and while loading is not cheap and ive had loads that wouldnt cycle a weapon. ive also got to shoot a lot more ad it gives me a lot of satisfaction shooting ammo that i put together. so far the most ive managed to load on the pro 1000 in a hour was 143 rounds of 38.
at some point in the next year or so i will look at buying a dillon but i am in no hurry. i think i will buy a better scale and caliper and a powder charge thrower first |
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I'm still waiting for this question. Quantity vs Quality ? hmmm....not a simple answer, but it's both. I'd like to know that i can pump out and refill my stock when i wanted and it was quality produced, not going to have failures or issues with it. Do i plan to perhaps reload like a sniper would? probably not, but i'd like to eventually know i could but thats through lots of time and learning like anything else. Quanity vs Quality is more to do with mindset and getting the basics down. I know guys loading on high dollar blue machines cramming out buckled cases, insufficient crimps and unable to hold a 12" group at 25 yards. I've seen blown up barrels and bullets jammed in barrels from the same crowd. We have our share of them in this forum who give loading advice. Taking the time to learn the dies is what makes the difference. These same guys sometimes will look me square, with a straight face and say they wouldn't waste their time single stage. Truth be told they wouldn't/didn't take the time to learn the basics on their progressives. A progressive can crank crap just as fast as quality. Unless you know how to tune each die to work simultaneously within a progressive index and produce a consistent run of cartridges you won't have quality. not sure i understand this statement....regardless of machine, if your die is set to setting A. shouldnt that remain consistent round to round as long as your brass all started out the same (i.e. brass length and prep being critical) Consistent OAL, consistent neck tension, consistent crimp diameter, consistent charge weights and the will/desire to constantly monitor production for quality assurances. Don't pretend for a moment we all have the same operating standards.We have more masters of machines in this forum or any reloading forum than we have quality cartridge handloaders. Assess your performance expectations, could be pulling a handle will produce what you want. We set the bar within our own operations. To really learn your die tuning, single stage, or a T7 style turret is the way to go. Lee turret works too but its geared more for pistol, having a floating tool head. We all sit at the same table in this forum but operate on different levels. Something for you to consider when soliciting advice.thats always the case though...and i like to hear from everyone and through time you start to discover through the knowledge gained and your own additional research the products out there that will produce the results you expect for the price your willing to part with :-) Price is to performance what the cost of components are. High dollar equipment will produce nothing more or less than the user puts into production. Same is true of inexpensive equipment. dc. |
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Progresses are great for pistol BUT for rifle, the only way I see to do it is clean your round, lube, size,
trim(or check trim length) then clean off lube and then go progressive on all the rest. Otherwise once you resize you don't know if you if you have correct trim length. Remember to remove the lube before doing the rest. Makes it much easier for me. |
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Unless you are doing long range, precision reloads I would recommend you get a progressive. A reloading machine is an investment that will last as long as you continue shooting. With a 5 station progressive your options in what you want to reload is massive. I am just reloading 9mm now, however someday I intend to do .223 and maybe even .308. I just started loading for the first time with an XL 650. It is complicated and challenging at first getting it all setup and going, but it is awesome after it is all setup. With the right dies on an auto index progressive you can do practically everything on the press and not have to do much by hand. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBQ_vJHiGek |
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Unless you are doing long range, precision reloads I would recommend you get a progressive. A reloading machine is an investment that will last as long as you continue shooting. With a 5 station progressive your options in what you want to reload is massive. I am just reloading 9mm now, however someday I intend to do .223 and maybe even .308. I just started loading for the first time with an XL 650. It is complicated and challenging at first getting it all setup and going, but it is awesome after it is all setup. With the right dies on an auto index progressive you can do practically everything on the press and not have to do much by hand. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBQ_vJHiGek Try pulling rifle bullets with a 650. I'd know a little something about that.
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I used my progressive today. I sized the brass on my RCII then passed it to my son who bell mouthed it on the Lee.
So on an so forth, no need to go through the rest. Loaded 100, 200gr cast 44 mags. That's pretty progressive.
All joking aside the boy is learning buy using these single stage tools. If he decides some day to go with a progressive he will have the learned skills to handle it. The fact that so many replied to this thread who do load on progressive tools and also stated they still use their single stage presses a lot should be telling you something about your decision for what to start with. |
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I started with a single stage, moved to a Lee Classic Turret Press, then to a Dillon 550b, and now I've got a 650.
I wish I had started with the 550. It's the simplest progressive press out there and you can do everything on it. I use the 650 for 9mm/223, the 550 is currently set up for my large primer stuff which is 10mm,9x25Dillon, 50 Beowulf, and45 ACP/460 Rowland. I use the single stage for 308 Win for the bolt gun and 6.8 SPC. The LCT is used for odds and ends. |
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Quoted: Quoted: Unless you are doing long range, precision reloads I would recommend you get a progressive. A reloading machine is an investment that will last as long as you continue shooting. With a 5 station progressive your options in what you want to reload is massive. I am just reloading 9mm now, however someday I intend to do .223 and maybe even .308. I just started loading for the first time with an XL 650. It is complicated and challenging at first getting it all setup and going, but it is awesome after it is all setup. With the right dies on an auto index progressive you can do practically everything on the press and not have to do much by hand. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBQ_vJHiGek Try pulling rifle bullets with a 650. I'd know a little something about that. I pull with a hammer puller If you are pulling a ton of bullets then you need a single stage for sure. |
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Unless you are doing long range, precision reloads I would recommend you get a progressive. A reloading machine is an investment that will last as long as you continue shooting. With a 5 station progressive your options in what you want to reload is massive. I am just reloading 9mm now, however someday I intend to do .223 and maybe even .308. I just started loading for the first time with an XL 650. It is complicated and challenging at first getting it all setup and going, but it is awesome after it is all setup. With the right dies on an auto index progressive you can do practically everything on the press and not have to do much by hand. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBQ_vJHiGek Try pulling rifle bullets with a 650. I'd know a little something about that. I pull with a hammer puller
If you are pulling a ton of bullets then you need a single stage for sure. Just for the occasional rifle bullet pull a single stage is worth its bench space. Single stage can be a precision tool, utility tool and to most of us both. This is often an either or debate. It's a rediculous debate for most of us who know better. Previous post mentions having gone single stage for two weeks, then moved to Dillon progressive AFTER he thought he had the process down. Poster likely did have it nailed and more than ready to move on. There's a thread running now that kind of goes along with what I and other experienced handloaders have been saying. Watch it, because it will help you make the transition from reloaders to handloaders. Thread is die tuning. Regards, dc. |
| I have a single stage because space is limited and I load on a collapsible work bench. Is easy to setup and break down. I do reloading in stages. Resize and deprive 500 rounds or more and tumble them. Prime and flare them another. Ready to reload so a Friday night before shootings can bust out 500 rounds in a few hours. |
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Here's a good hickok45 video. Single or progressive? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=irC3NuIKDm4&feature=endscreen&NR=1 ... |
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I just bought a Dillon 550b and have idea what I am doing. Everyone going into this has "an idea" of what they're doing. Some become masters of their machines while others master both machine and cartridge. RL550 is a good starter press, manual advance as you know and doubles well as a single stage press. The old RL450s could function in true single stage mode for lack of floating tool head. |
| I started out with an RCBS Rock-Chucker and for what I was doing, it was fine. Then I got into competition shooting and so did my future ex! I figured I didn't want to spend my life behind a single stage press so I went and bought a Dillion XL650. When it comes to cranking out volume that is fairly accurate, the Dillion is what I go with. I keep a tool head set up for 9mm, .45 ACP, .40 S&W, .45 Colt, .38 Special, 7.62 NATO and 5.56NATO. This is the ammo I am going to use in larger volumes so using the Dillon makes sense. However, I also load BP rounds, .357 Sig, .222 Remington, .30-30 Winchester to name a few as well but it's not needed in great quantity so here is where my old single stage is still in use. I also use my single stage for my precision ammo and small capacity cases like .32 ACP where a single grain is going to make a difference. I also use my single stage to prep cases like 7.62 and 5.56 for use later in the Dillon. Chores like resizing lubed cases before cleaning the lube off is an example of what I still use my Rock Chucker for even with brass that will be going through a progressive reloader. No, I can crank out some serious amounts of ammo with the Dillon but to be honest, the single stage Rock Chucker is truely the work horse around here! |
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I started out with a single stage press and eventually moved up to the Hornady LNL AP.
Honestly now I'd just go ahead and get the Hornady LNL AP. You can use it like a single stage press if you want to, or you can use it as intended progressively. Starting out definitely use it like a single stage press to get the feel for reloading. Once you're used to your press put the other dies in and start making rounds every pull of the handle. Just pay more attention when you're reloading progressively and you'll be fine. |
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ok...i think i'm going for it....here's my shopping list. (seems like most everything else is included in the kit. only other thing i could use is 10mm dies, but that can wait...
Press:
Dies:
Case Prep:
Final production validation items:
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ok...i think i'm going for it....here's my shopping list. (seems like most everything else is included in the kit. only other thing i could use is 10mm dies, but that can wait... Press:
Dies:
Case Prep:
Final production validation items:
9mm shellholder is #8 223 shellholder is # 16 I have and still use Hornady cam lock trimmer for .308 Winchester. You might look into a powered trimmer for .223. I went from trimming .223 on cam lock to drill mounted Possum Hollow which really stepped things up. I used an RCBS swager before going to Dillon swager. You might think about the Dillon swager, its a few dollars more and worth it. An alternative to swaging is reaming, a tool that can be drill powered. For metering 9mm you will want small pistol rotor and maybe another insert. One metering insert will work fine for both rotors. I use Hornady aerosol for pistol and .223 that's been shot through my AR. For range brass consider a can of sizing wax, a 2oz tin will last forever. I smear a little inside a coffee can, half fill with brass, then shake and brass is coated. Also, don't forget about tumbler and media or Lemishine. One or both works for clean brass. Other than the items I mentioned your list looks good. When you decide to go progressive you will be set to transition to an AP. My AP has been bolted up for the last few weeks loading Hornady 75 grain hpbt under 24.1 grains Reloder 15. Had I been able to find small primer arm for Classic it all would've been loaded single stage for no other reason than I just wasn't in a hurry to load. |
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9mm shellholder is #8 223 shellholder is # 16 I have and still use Hornady cam lock trimmer for .308 Winchester. You might look into a powered trimmer for .223. I went from trimming .223 on cam lock to drill mounted Possum Hollow which really stepped things up. I used an RCBS swager before going to Dillon swager. You might think about the Dillon swager, its a few dollars more and worth it. An alternative to swaging is reaming, a tool that can be drill powered. For metering 9mm you will want small pistol rotor and maybe another insert. One metering insert will work fine for both rotors. I use Hornady aerosol for pistol and .223 that's been shot through my AR. For range brass consider a can of sizing wax, a 2oz tin will last forever. I smear a little inside a coffee can, half fill with brass, then shake and brass is coated. Also, don't forget about tumbler and media or Lemishine. One or both works for clean brass. Other than the items I mentioned your list looks good. When you decide to go progressive you will be set to transition to an AP. My AP has been bolted up for the last few weeks loading Hornady 75 grain hpbt under 24.1 grains Reloder 15. Had I been able to find small primer arm for Classic it all would've been loaded single stage for no other reason than I just wasn't in a hurry to load. I have the #8 on the list and it appears the press comes with the #16 shellholder so i think i'm good on those. Hmmm the possum hollow will save me some bucks and looks like it should accomplish the job as long as it's set right....figure they either have something to help you figure the depth setting or I can trial and error figure it out and come up with something. The metering you mention is in the press set, does it work well? and for now i have a vibrating tumbler for my brass, maybe later move up to the wet thumbler. I've only heard of lemishine for the wet tumblers, is this something to be used with the walnut media as well or simply a soak in it pre-walnut tumbling? |
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Lee has some really economical press kits that include nearly everythiing need to start reloading.
You might want to learn on that and save your money for a progressive in the future. Still, you can't go wrong buying any quality US made reloader. I do have the opinion that starting with a ssingle-stage is the best way to get started due to safety issues as you learn. Just my 2 cents woth. YMMV |
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Quoted: ok...i think i'm going for it....here's my shopping list. (seems like most everything else is included in the kit. only other thing i could use is 10mm dies, but that can wait... Press:
Do you already have a caliper? Don't forget loading blocks. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
9mm shellholder is #8 223 shellholder is # 16 I have and still use Hornady cam lock trimmer for .308 Winchester. You might look into a powered trimmer for .223. I went from trimming .223 on cam lock to drill mounted Possum Hollow which really stepped things up. I used an RCBS swager before going to Dillon swager. You might think about the Dillon swager, its a few dollars more and worth it. An alternative to swaging is reaming, a tool that can be drill powered. For metering 9mm you will want small pistol rotor and maybe another insert. One metering insert will work fine for both rotors. I use Hornady aerosol for pistol and .223 that's been shot through my AR. For range brass consider a can of sizing wax, a 2oz tin will last forever. I smear a little inside a coffee can, half fill with brass, then shake and brass is coated. Also, don't forget about tumbler and media or Lemishine. One or both works for clean brass. Other than the items I mentioned your list looks good. When you decide to go progressive you will be set to transition to an AP. My AP has been bolted up for the last few weeks loading Hornady 75 grain hpbt under 24.1 grains Reloder 15. Had I been able to find small primer arm for Classic it all would've been loaded single stage for no other reason than I just wasn't in a hurry to load. I have the #8 on the list and it appears the press comes with the #16 shellholder so i think i'm good on those. Hmmm the possum hollow will save me some bucks and looks like it should accomplish the job as long as it's set right....figure they either have something to help you figure the depth setting or I can trial and error figure it out and come up with something. The metering you mention is in the press set, does it work well? and for now i have a vibrating tumbler for my brass, maybe later move up to the wet thumbler. I've only heard of lemishine for the wet tumblers, is this something to be used with the walnut media as well or simply a soak in it pre-walnut tumbling? Hornady measure in kit is equipped with rifle rotor and not as consistent with pistol charges as with pistol rotor. If you intend to purchase an AP soon after the Classic kit, AP is sold with both rotors. Lemi-Shine can be used with water inside a bucket for cleaning brass. If you want dryflash3 bling, wash brass in Lemi-Shine, dry, then tumble in cob. |
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If you are going to use LC or other .mil 5.56/223 brass with crimped primers, then you need a single stage or turret press to decap the brass with a universal decapping die the first time.
You mention decapping with a press but I think you will be happier either using the Dillon primer swaging tool (great tool but $$) or Hornady primer pocket reamer (cheap and very functional but labor intensive). I also agree that you will want to pull bullet with a single stage press, not a hammer. |
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