Armory Sponsor
Posted: 10/21/2012 7:55:44 PM EDT
|
I'm using a 5.56 RCBS dies and when I try to size and decap the pin breaks after a few brass. I bought replacement pins and stem and it keeps happening. I do make sure that everything is on tight.
Any thoughts as to why it keeps happening? I'm still new to reloading so I'm getting pissed off but want to know why. Thanks. |
 Boxer on left (what your dies are made for) Berdan on right. Are you sure you aren't trying to deprime Berdan cases? Look down case with flashlight and count flasholes. Be sure deprimming shaft isn't bent after breaking pins. If suddenly the pressure on the press handle increases above normal, stop. There is a problem to figure out. Don't just "power through".
|
|
What brand brass are you depriming - I've noticed that Fiocchi flash holes aren't always centered, and get a little of a springing bounce when decapping. Also - I've purchased once fired brass that even after tumbling had clods of dirt still in the casing. Just some thoughts. |
|
So far I see all my brass that I was able to pop the primer it has one flashhole.
It is all mixed brass so I can't pinpoint it. I guess I will sort them now and see which ones I have trouble on and sell for scrap metal. Is sorting brass soemthing done usually? I just bought a new stem. I feared the die itself may have been off but it seems to sturdy. I am having a hard time unscrewing what is holding the pin right now. Cliffnotes, feel any resistance, stop, and move on. Right? Thanks. |
|
Quoted: So far I see all my brass that I was able to pop the primer it has one flashhole. It is all mixed brass so I can't pinpoint it. I guess I will sort them now and see which ones I have trouble on and sell for scrap metal. Is sorting brass soemthing done usually? Yes. part of your problem. If you read your reloading manual this will be mentioned. I just bought a new stem. I feared the die itself may have been off but it seems to sturdy. I am having a hard time unscrewing what is holding the pin right now. Cliffnotes, feel any resistance, stop, Fix problem before moving on. Right? Now right Thanks. |
|
mgeh, Lets start from the beginning. #1 Sort your brass. American Brands like Winchester, Federal, R-P, etc, will most likely be Boxer Primed so no worries. Anything European, inspect for Berdan primed by peeking in with a good light. #2 Make sure you're lubing the cases properly!! If you have crap lube, or aren't lubing properly, you're probably used to putting a little muscle into your resizing. STOP THAT. Make it easier to size the brass, that way you'll feel when things aren't right. #3 Absolutely make sure your die is clean and polished. I actually chuck up synthetic steel wool onto a cordless drill and very lightly buff the inside of the die to make sure it's smooth, then clean it with a good carb cleaner. This isn't necessary, I just do it to all my dies to give them a better than factory polish. Some higher end dies do not need this at all. #4 RTFM! Read The $&%# Manual! If you're not setting up the die correctly, you'll wreck pins, then probably bend the main rod. If the rod is bent, then all bets are off. You can see if yours it bent by rolling it on a table. It should roll smoothly and not lope as you roll it. #4a Part of RTFM, make sure when you're setting up the die, you put the rod in to the correct depth and TIGHTLY. I've seen too many people setup the decapping rod really low thinking that will help with pushing the primer out, and/or, they don't tighten it up correctly. When you don't tighten it up correctly it allows the rod to cant to the side a little bit, missing the flash hole, which snaps the pin and/or bends the rod. I've assisted many people in setting up their presses, and having a loose decapping rod is probably the #2 reason for issue. #1 is usually a berdan primed brass snuck in...I still get caught by that when I'm moving too quickly. LOL Lastly, what might help in the long run, is just getting a Universal Decapping die and popping those primers out first. Then going back and sizing with your RCBS die. The advantage to a universal decapper is that many of them have a slip-fit rod. Basically the rod is either smooth and held in by a clamping nut (Lee), or the threads have been ground down a little so when the die meets too much resistance the whole rod slips upward saving the pin. It takes time to reset everything back, but it sure beats spending $15 on a new decapping rod! LOL I hope that helps some. We've all been through this, and since I teach reloading, I've seen it more than many. |
|
I agree with LonelyRaven. You may be missing some details in setting your die up that cause the pin to just barely miss the holes.
Aside from the brass sorting that should be part of your process, what can you tell us about your set up. For example, single stage press? FL Dies or dedicated decapper? Listen for the pin when you start your down stroke. Do you hear that pin getting strummed some of the time? That would indicate a near miss and should warn you that there is something out of alignment, for example. You can hear this on a single stage press if you are made aware of it. Make sure your adapter on the ram is clean too. Primer debris can build up and prevent the case head from having the freedom in needs on the ram. (I am assuming you are running a single stage when I say that.) To see if your priming pin has a gross TIR problem, run the die in upside down while you watch the tip of the pin. Once the die picks up the threads, there will be some small amount of runout, but anything big enough to see at arms length means you will randomly be breaking the pin. It should rotate without running out as you spin the die or it is adjusted wrong. |
|
Thanks for all the replies.
I am using a Lee single stage for my .223 and a Hornady Lock n Load for pistol. I just use the Lee to decap and size the .223 brass and load it through the Lock n Load. I am also going to clean my dies and get a Universal Decapper. I wish I had someone that could help me set up. I made about 1000 rounds so far of various calibers and only recently ran into this but I also picked up more brass from the range by this point. Thanks again, I will get started on this as soon as I have time and give an update if needed. |
|
The primer punch/decapper stem only has to be screwed down enough to push the primer out. When setting one up that first time I just screw the die down till it touches the shell holder when the shell holder is full raised.
Then I lube up some cleaned cases. Then I run a case up in the die and adjust the stem with the primer decapping pin downward till it touches. Then I drop the case slightly out of the die and adjust the stem downwards a couple of turns. Raise the case up again and see if the primer falls out. I repeat until I get sure primer removal. The decapper pin does not have to stick down below the die very far to work. Get it to far and your forcing the part of the stem that holds the decapper pin down against the inside of the cartridge case base - bending the stem and causing misalignment issues. Good luck with it. |
|
Quoted:
Call RCBS Customer Service and ask them to send you a dozen decapping pins. Explain you are trying to solve a problem and have broken numerous ones. RCBS has great customer service and will often sent you free small parts for dedicated customers. This is theft by fraud. This is a prime example of what is wrong with the country. Deny responsibility for one's actions! WOW To the OP There are three basic reasons for breaking pins #1 the decapping retainer/expander ball is loose #2 the decapping rod is bent from operator error in checking his equipment. #3 operator is tryiing decap berdan primed brass one last one #4 a real long shot the die is defective with any number of issues! |
Armory Sponsor