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Posted: 9/19/2012 8:26:01 AM EDT
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I set my Dillon Trimmer / Resize Die to resize my brass.
Then I set the same trimmer / resize die to cut my brass. Now I need to move the die to resize to a different dimension. If I don't move the trimmer itself, will my trim to length stay the same or will in change with the movement of the die? Dillon 650 |
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Quoted:
I set my Dillon Trimmer / Resize Die to resize my brass. Then I set the same trimmer / resize die to cut my brass. Now I need to move the die to resize to a different dimension. If I don't move the trimmer itself, will my trim to length stay the same or will in change with the movement of the die? Dillon 650 moving the size die will also require you to reset the trim length. if you screw the die down to bump shoulder more your brass will be shorter and visa versa. so yes you will have to reset up the trimmer |
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Why are you resetting the die position? You should be able to adjust the resizing degree/shoulder bump and OAL so it all happens at once.
I do have a Lee conventionasl resizer set two stations later, backed out a couple of turns to ensure no additional sizing occurs, and it';s adjusted to run the Dillon-sized necks over a expander ball that I've polished down to achieve .003" of neck tension. The Dillon trim die does resize the encks quite a bit. But I don't readjust the trim die at all. |
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That's one way of setting up, I reckon. I prefer to set my trim die to not size at station four and run Dillon carbide sizer die at station one. Setting and resetting trim would not be fun. That's how I used to have it set up. Why is it better that way? Why do others suggest resizing at the trimmer location. Frankly, it's not fun messing with the trim length every time. |
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Why are you resetting the die position? I haven't been able to get my die to give me a consistent brass size ever. However, just today I discovered that my process of resizing my brass is wrong. So the adjustment has to happen again. Which means I have to adjust the trim again. You should be able to adjust the resizing degree/shoulder bump and OAL so it all happens at once. Not sure I understand what you mean. Unless you are saying to adjust the trim immediately after I adjust the size. In which case, thats what I'm doing. If not, please explain... I do have a Lee conventionasl resizer set two stations later, backed out a couple of turns to ensure no additional sizing occurs, and it';s adjusted to run the Dillon-sized necks over a expander ball that I've polished down to achieve .003" of neck tension. The Dillon trim die does resize the encks quite a bit. But I don't readjust the trim die at all. Are you running this set up on a 650. I'm confused as to which stations are with which dies... |
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Why are you resetting the die position? I haven't been able to get my die to give me a consistent brass size ever. However, just today I discovered that my process of resizing my brass is wrong. So the adjustment has to happen again. Which means I have to adjust the trim again. You should be able to adjust the resizing degree/shoulder bump and OAL so it all happens at once. Not sure I understand what you mean. Unless you are saying to adjust the trim immediately after I adjust the size. In which case, thats what I'm doing. If not, please explain... I do have a Lee conventionasl resizer set two stations later, backed out a couple of turns to ensure no additional sizing occurs, and it';s adjusted to run the Dillon-sized necks over a expander ball that I've polished down to achieve .003" of neck tension. The Dillon trim die does resize the necks quite a bit. But I don't readjust the trim die at all. Are you running this set up on a 650. I'm confused as to which stations are with which dies... Yes, adjust for sizing/shoulder bump first, then adjust for trim length. As you resize the case it's trimmed to length at the same time. Trim length is consistent enough for my purposes –– if you find it varies over a couple of thousandths, I wouldn't worry (assumes you've set things to trim to the "trim-to-length" number recommended in manuals). Makle sure you are lubing cases consistently and using consistent force on the ram from case-to-case. This should ensure consistent sizing/shoulder bumping. I run a 550. On a dedicated case prep toolhead, sizing/trimming in station #1, Lee resizer in station #3. Station #'s 2 and 4 are empty. It's not possible to place dies immediately next to each other due to lock ring interference –– they have to mounted diagonally to each other. Second toolhead is utilized for charging, seating and crimping. HTH. |
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How does one polish the carbide expander to 003" of neck tension? Very carefully. I use either diamond tooling polish or 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper but using it wet is better. To remove more material faster diamond files are in order. Then finish with the diamond polish. |
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How does one polish the carbide expander to 003" of neck tension? Note the Lee expander is not carbide, it's polished steel. I doubt carbide would respond to this treatment. Use a stone, then followed by a crocus cloth. Chuck spindle in drill and polish away. Also, I used the stone to make the "rough" adjustment, and then the crocus cloth to get the last couple ten thousandths. If I would have used just crocus cloth, I'd probably still be polishing on it. IIRC, the stock expander/spindle provided ~ .001 neck tension/constriction. By polishing a little more, I was able to take the expander down to allow ~.003 neck tension. |
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How does one polish the carbide expander to 003" of neck tension? Very carefully. I use either diamond tooling polish or 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper but using it wet is better. To remove more material faster diamond files are in order. Then finish with the diamond polish. How do you insure that you don't take it out of round? Do you chuck it? What is the finished diameter for .308 / 7.62 and or 223 ? |
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Quoted:
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How does one polish the carbide expander to 003" of neck tension? Very carefully. I use either diamond tooling polish or 1000 grit wet or dry sand paper but using it wet is better. To remove more material faster diamond files are in order. Then finish with the diamond polish. How do you insure that you don't take it out of round? Do you chuck it? Yes What is the finished diameter for .308 / 7.62 and or 223 ? For .223 = .221-.222 |
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If you're looking for an answer everyone will agree with, I'm the wrong guy to ask. I'm usually open to suggestions for example there's my way and...... My way and the way I suggest you do things which, appropriately is the right way and the same way as my way.
The problem is about half disagree with me, most days. To run vacuum I need RT1200 in station 4, carbide sizer of course station one. By sizing with carbide sizer first, then trimming my trim height variance is reduced. That's my findings after setting up tool head several ways, this method has produced best consistency. Downside is flash holes have to be inspected after tumbling and most find this too much work. Quoted:
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That's one way of setting up, I reckon. I prefer to set my trim die to not size at station four and run Dillon carbide sizer die at station one. Setting and resetting trim would not be fun. That's how I used to have it set up. Why is it better that way? Why do others suggest resizing at the trimmer location. Frankly, it's not fun messing with the trim length every time. |
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