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Posted: 8/5/2012 11:01:20 AM EDT
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anyone have experience with these (or something like them)?
http://www.wideners.com/itemdetail.cfm?item_id=6027&dir=278|281|295|595 just wondering if it is something feasible for a "home" basement once in a while. I'm not "in the city" but not out in the sticks either, just a couple acres so in the basement would probably not raise any eyebrows. |
I've had a box of them in 38 spl for years. The ones I have use a large pistol primer. They are kind of loud but the worst thing is the smell. Primer compound leaves a nasty nose burning Oder/smoke. It was too much to handle and if you have a women in the house you will be getting the "WTF is that smell" real quick.
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yeah...cycling was one thing I was wondering about in a semi. Just cant picture that working. The .45s would be for my Ruger SR1911.
Feeding from the mag is another one. The hot glue video identified that one as I never thought about pushing them all the way down. Then again, dont know if that is what the widners ones would require (makes sense that it would). Hot glue bullets are interesting. would have never thought of that. But like all the comments say, I would be worried 'bout residue from the hot glue left in the gun. oh yeah...no woman in the house to worry 'bout (bachelor pad). if she dont like it, she can go home...hahaha. OK, sounds like maybe one of those too good to be true deals. Guess the range is the only option. Would be cool to be able to "practice" in my own "shoot house" though...LOL. Maybe I can rig up a custom dedicated gun for this...hmmmmmmm edit; come to think of it...why would you need to drill the hole in the .45 brass? I thought maybe to provide some "blowback" for cycling? |
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I have used the Speer plastic bullets. Drill out flashole with 1/8 bit on the cases for these loads. Do not use these cases for standard loads once drilled out.
 You can deprime with a Lee decapper, get the 30 cal size. Or a nail and a board with a hole for the primers to fall into. The plastic case/bullet loads will not cycle any semi auto. Put a piece of rug in a cardboard box to stop the bullets. Piece of paper over box with a bullseye on it for a target. Accurate to about 20 feet. Remember primers contain lead, so you will be breathing it without good ventilation. Good luck. |
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Quoted: dryflash3 is right on here. Basement is by definition an enclosed space joined only to a living space, a bad setup to fire a lot of primers with lead content. This is why indoor gun range always have a high degree of ventilation.
Remember primers contain lead, so you will be breathing it without good ventilation. |
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Quoted:
yeah...cycling was one thing I was wondering about in a semi. Just cant picture that working. The .45s would be for my Ruger SR1911. Feeding from the mag is another one. The hot glue video identified that one as I never thought about pushing them all the way down. Then again, dont know if that is what the widners ones would require (makes sense that it would). Hot glue bullets are interesting. would have never thought of that. But like all the comments say, I would be worried 'bout residue from the hot glue left in the gun. oh yeah...no woman in the house to worry 'bout (bachelor pad). if she dont like it, she can go home...hahaha. OK, sounds like maybe one of those too good to be true deals. Guess the range is the only option. Would be cool to be able to "practice" in my own "shoot house" though...LOL. Maybe I can rig up a custom dedicated gun for this...hmmmmmmm edit; come to think of it...why would you need to drill the hole in the .45 brass? I thought maybe to provide some "blowback" for cycling? I have some of that exact ammo in your link above. It is VERY accurate in my 1911... Drilling the flashole out is not required to make them work but they work better (faster) if you do as they say and enlarge the flash holes. I wont reload real bullets in Amerc brass because it is garbage - It gets drilled out and saved for plastic bullets. The Amerc headstamp helps remind me what exactly that brass is for... Amerc works fine for plastic ammo like this. Cardboard will NOT be a good backstop for these. You will go through it and mess up the sheetrock. You 'need' a carpet scrap or something to hang behind your target to catch/stop the bullet without damaging it. With a good piece of carpet for a backstop these bullets last forever. The carpet will NOT last forever. These will eventually tear through the fibers on the backside... A few carpet scraps hanging behind your target would be best. You will only need to resize the cases once (if at all) with these. After shooting you simply pop out the used primer and insert another. I use the RCBS hand primer tool to do this with. Makes it very easy. I use a spare decap assembly and a wood block to remove used primers. Never really need to break out any big tools to reload these things. I use magnum primers with these. They will not damage the plastic bullets but you will see some sparks/flame coming out the end of the gun. You don't really want to be shooting these over nice carpeting... 
They will feed from the mag but they will NOT cycle the action. These will not melt and leave plastic in your barrel but they WILL leave a lot of nasty primer residue. 
These would be useful for small pest extermination if you are trying to not make a lot of noise in MY opinion. Shoot into a piece of scrap sheetrock with one and see what I am talking about. I can't see a rat surviving that.
With my particular 1911 I get the same POI with these as I do regular ammo at close ranges. I did NOT need to adjust my sights at all using these. 
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| The 38's I have (plastic bullets and plastic cases) will shoot right through both sides of a cardboard box and hit the concrete block behind hard enough to damage the hard plastic bullet. Again, these use a large pistol primer. I can't remember if I tried magnum primers in them or not. The accuracy was so so probably due to the bullet basically being a bore rider. |
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