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10/11/2011 1:00:07 PM EDT
I am going to start loading .45 acp soon to shoot in my Kimber Desert Warrior.  I am new to loading for hand gun and have a few questions.  I will be loading plinking rounds using Power pistol powder, and 200 gr Rainier plated bullets.

1.  Will I have to trim the brass after sizing.  My hornady manual lists a trim length, though I couldnt find any one talking about trimming pistol brass on here.

2. Will I have to crimp and if so, which crimp.

3.  Looking for load data for the Rainier 200 gr Plated round nose bullet, using power pistol powder.
10/11/2011 1:12:29 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
I am going to start loading .45 acp soon to shoot in my Kimber Desert Warrior.  I am new to loading for hand gun and have a few questions.  I will be loading plinking rounds using Power pistol powder, and 200 gr Rainier plated bullets.

1.  Will I have to trim the brass after sizing.  My hornady manual lists a trim length, though I couldnt find any one talking about trimming pistol brass on here.  No

2. Will I have to crimp and if so, which crimp.  Taper crimp, or whatever crimp your die applies, probably a roll crimp.  However, I bought a taper crimp die for bullets with a cannelure.  Do not drive the crimp in, the cartridge headspaces on the case mouth.  Most of us here crimp the case mouth to 0.469 to 0.471 inches, or thereabouts.  

3.  Looking for load data for the Rainier 200 gr Plated round nose bullet, using power pistol powder. Alliant has load data available on line.






10/11/2011 1:20:01 PM EDT
[#2]
What if the bullets do not have a cannelure?
10/11/2011 1:43:24 PM EDT
[#3]
Quoted:
What if the bullets do not have a cannelure?


Crimp the 45acp (often called removing the belling) the same way with either cannelure or no cannelure present.  It's the headspacing that AeroE mentioned that's important.  In the case of the 45acp, the sized case is providing more holding power of the projectile with neck tension than the crimp is...  I'm not saying the crimp doesn't hold the projectile, because it does.  But in the 45acp, it's more of a bell removal and head spacing factor.  The roll crimp is a different story as for it's uses and holding ability.
10/11/2011 2:10:04 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
Quoted:
What if the bullets do not have a cannelure?


Crimp the 45acp (often called removing the belling) the same way with either cannelure or no cannelure present.  It's the headspacing that AeroE mentioned that's important.  In the case of the 45acp, the sized case is providing more holding power of the projectile with neck tension than the crimp is...  I'm not saying the crimp doesn't hold the projectile, because it does.  But in the 45acp, it's more of a bell removal and head spacing factor.  The roll crimp is a different story as for it's uses and holding ability.

If running tuned pistol removing just bell is, ok.

Problem with giving advice to "just remove bell" requires some assumption on your part. You're assuming person your helping knows what a tuned pistol is and owns tuned pistol. Chances are strong if a person knows for a fact their pistol is tuned. They know how to load for that pistol. My only assumption when giving advice for crimp is assuming pistol is not tuned. An out of the box pistol isn't tuned and capable of set back. If you want to carry that burden when giving advice, by all means carry on.

Otherwise advice for crimp should mirror AeroE's.





Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
10/11/2011 2:37:17 PM EDT
[#5]
Quoted:
What if the bullets do not have a cannelure?


Most bullets you shoot in .45 ACP or 9mm Luger (autoloaders) will not have a cannelure.

Cast bullets for autoloaders generally have one or two grooves for lube, not a crimp.

10/11/2011 2:42:34 PM EDT
[#6]
i think that for accuracy you should use a case gauge and a micrometer.

measure the case mouth diameter when it comes out of the sizing die.

bell just enough to start seating the bullet without shaving metal from the bullet (the bullet base should sit just below the mouth of the shell)

crimp INITIALLY enough to bring the case mouth back to its original diameter....either use the micrometer to measure it, or lay it on its side on something absolutely straight and use a backlight to see if there is any gap under the shell.

after getting back to baseline, then add .001" of taper crimp. use micrometer to measure.

compare all measurements to a commercially loaded round. be sure your reload fits completely in the case gauge. look through the bullet end of the case gauge and try to observe the cartridge rim..it should be obscured by the inside edge of the gauge (where it would headspace in the barrel). if you can see the edge of the shell, it is too crimped!
10/11/2011 2:50:33 PM EDT
[#7]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
What if the bullets do not have a cannelure?


Crimp the 45acp (often called removing the belling) the same way with either cannelure or no cannelure present.  It's the headspacing that AeroE mentioned that's important.  In the case of the 45acp, the sized case is providing more holding power of the projectile with neck tension than the crimp is...  I'm not saying the crimp doesn't hold the projectile, because it does.  But in the 45acp, it's more of a bell removal and head spacing factor.  The roll crimp is a different story as for it's uses and holding ability.

If running tuned pistol removing just bell is, ok.

Problem with giving advice to "just remove bell" requires some assumption on your part. You're assuming person your helping knows what a tuned pistol is and owns tuned pistol. Chances are strong if a person knows for a fact their pistol is tuned. They know how to load for that pistol. My only assumption when giving advice for crimp is assuming pistol is not tuned. An out of the box pistol isn't tuned and capable of set back. If you want to carry that burden when giving advice, by all means carry on.

Otherwise advice for crimp should mirror AeroE's.





Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


You're right.  I should have specified taper crimp when referring to the crimp in the first part of my response.  You definitely don't want to over crimp pistol cases just be cause you're dealing with a cannelure, though...correct me if I'm wrong.
10/11/2011 3:26:53 PM EDT
[#8]
I did an Op a while back on factory crimp. Op was for handgun forum where set back is a common issue and then tied Op to here, twice.

Tradition has taught us .45acp head spaces on case mouth. Since it does, we were taught a crimp isn't necessary. The problem with tradition, times change. While we have taught others to not crimp, modern semi autos have tightened feed channels. So tight, cartridges commonly "tolerence stack."
Our concern with crimping these days shouldn't concern head space. Crimping is imperative because of increased recoil spring weights and impact bullet receives when ogive hits feed ramp. Also, hardly anyone new to hand gun reloading understands the difference between GI magazines and hybrid magazines. GI magazines, no crimp and hollow points. This combination is set back city.

Modern ammunition makers have kept up with the times and apply a heavy crimp. We need to catch up too. Our job as teachers has gotten harder teaching loaders .45acp. We need a comprehensive understanding of all .45acp hand guns made because what works for the old bullseye 1911 won't hunt in a Sig chambered 45acp.

Also 1911s have changed too. A gentleman I had the pleasure to visit with on range  was asking how to load reduced recoil 45acp loads for his 1911. My gears immediatly engaged government model, when he pulled a 3" Kimber out of his bag it was an oh, shit moment because everything I had told him didn't apply to his 1911.

One last thought to leave for you guys "just removing the bell".

What happens to bullet when cartridge is chambered. Does it stay put or ride forward into rifling ?

Chances are you will never know until too late. Add this scenario to a light charge of Accurate # 2 and kaboom.

All it takes is once.




Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
10/11/2011 4:36:19 PM EDT
[#9]
Quoted:
I did an Op a while back on factory crimp. Op was for handgun forum where set back is a common issue and then tied Op to here, twice.

Tradition has taught us .45acp head spaces on case mouth. Since it does, we were taught a crimp isn't necessary. The problem with tradition, times change. While we have taught others to not crimp, modern semi autos have tightened feed channels. So tight, cartridges commonly "tolerence stack."
Our concern with crimping these days shouldn't concern head space. Crimping is imperative because of increased recoil spring weights and impact bullet receives when ogive hits feed ramp. Also, hardly anyone new to hand gun reloading understands the difference between GI magazines and hybrid magazines. GI magazines, no crimp and hollow points. This combination is set back city.

Modern ammunition makers have kept up with the times and apply a heavy crimp. We need to catch up too. Our job as teachers has gotten harder teaching loaders .45acp. We need a comprehensive understanding of all .45acp hand guns made because what works for the old bullseye 1911 won't hunt in a Sig chambered 45acp.

Also 1911s have changed too. A gentleman I had the pleasure to visit with on range  was asking how to load reduced recoil 45acp loads for his 1911. My gears immediatly engaged government model, when he pulled a 3" Kimber out of his bag it was an oh, shit moment because everything I had told him didn't apply to his 1911.

One last thought to leave for you guys "just removing the bell".

What happens to bullet when cartridge is chambered. Does it stay put or ride forward into rifling ?

Chances are you will never know until too late. Add this scenario to a light charge of Accurate # 2 and kaboom.

All it takes is once.




Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


Damn...  You were too quick with your edit.

Anyway.......  I DO agree with you on crimp, and every reloading forum thread I've posted info in (except for the IMI thread), I have stated a crimp of .469-.471".  Well, I failed to mention that in my above post, because I know that "removing the bell" to me is the same as a taper crimp of .469-.471".  I agree I need to quit "assuming" people know what I mean, and spell everything out...

But, aren't we getting a little freakish on how we want people to word their posts?  Don't think I'm making excuses here, but common sense needs to come from the OP, too.  We all need to stress that nothing is cut and dried when it comes to reloading.  You and I have five of the most common manuals, we have the most basic necessities (scales, calipers, case gauges, chronos, etc.).  An OP needs to bring common sense and a good dose of technical know-how to the reloading table.  Someone else could have just as easily created a liability for themselves and Arfcom if the OP was told to seat the bullets to the cannelure and roll the crimp in......and the OP was using 45cal Hornady XTP's......but failed to mention they were 250 grain!!!!!

I hope I'm not out of line with the above, but I really am worried about providing the wrong info because I'm not thorough enough or eloquent enough in my post response.  You definitely have more experience than I do, mainly with the 1911 series.  I load primarily for forced-feed pistols, and tweak the loads to work (albeit in the name of safety!) for my 1911's.  I trust your info when I see it.   but I'm not one to intentionally give bad info, and feel bad if I do.  Yes, I like that you give constructive criticism.

Now, getting to the point of this post, I don't want to get banned for not being specific enough in my posted responses.  From this point on, I'll strive to be more descriptive and thorough.  This has actually been on my mind since last night when you mentioned Maryland_Shooter.  I did a search, but wasn't able to pin down why he was banned, but I'm beginning to think it was for giving mis-information.  Am I right?

I don't want to get this thread locked, so if it was for giving bad info, could either you or Aero send me a PM and at least link me to the thread where things went awry with him?  This cryptic shit like what was posted in the locked thread last night, does nothing to help me learn what would get me in trouble.  And yes, I've read the forum rules.

ETA:  edited, because my damn iPhone likes to cut and paste when I hit the wrong keys.
10/11/2011 5:08:28 PM EDT
[#10]
Your taking it a bit too personal I think and then I'm a bit blunt.

Some insight. I look at everything as I looked at things when new to all this. I took everything to the letter given. I hung to every word spoken. New 1911, new to 45acp, new to reloading. I look at this with the view point of someone who's first experience was awful.

Then too. My approach is a product of numerous IMs and Emails of guys in this forum with thanks for being so precise.
I read, edit, reread, edit again, reread again, add too, edit, reread, add too again, then proof every post.

Does this help with insight ?

I'm the guy I was looking for way back when but couldn't find.

Theres no attention wanted here, nothing to gain, just pure motivation to be as helpful and precise as possible.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
10/11/2011 5:42:38 PM EDT
[#11]
Quoted:
Your taking it a bit too personal I think and then I'm a bit blunt.

Some insight. I look at everything as I looked at things when new to all this. I took everything to the letter given. I hung to every word spoken. New 1911, new to 45acp, new to reloading. I look at this with the view point of someone who's first experience was awful.

Then too. My approach is a product of numerous IMs and Emails of guys in this forum with thanks for being so precise.
I read, edit, reread, edit again, reread again, add too, edit, reread, add too again, then proof every post.

Does this help with insight ?

I'm the guy I was looking for way back when but couldn't find.

Theres no attention wanted here, nothing to gain, just pure motivation to be as helpful and precise as possible.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


If I take it personal, it's because I'm usually disappointed in myself.  I'm glad you chime in when something needs to be questioned or corrected, and I'm not upset with you or others when you give constructive criticism.  I know I'm more thorough than many on here, but I need to see more [last edit: Today x:xx:xxPM EDT by StevesZZ5] on my post information bar.  I do that a lot as it is already, lol.

10/11/2011 5:53:00 PM EDT
[#12]
Good forums have participation from everyone. I wouldn't know a third of what I do if it weren't for people like you constantly challenging what I know. Then adding too, refining my thought process and theory.

The more you participate the more you learn. So whatever you do, don't stop.

Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile
10/11/2011 7:24:01 PM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Quoted:
I did an Op a while back on factory crimp. Op was for handgun forum where set back is a common issue and then tied Op to here, twice.

Tradition has taught us .45acp head spaces on case mouth. Since it does, we were taught a crimp isn't necessary. The problem with tradition, times change. While we have taught others to not crimp, modern semi autos have tightened feed channels. So tight, cartridges commonly "tolerance stack."
Our concern with crimping these days shouldn't concern head space. Crimping is imperative because of increased recoil spring weights and impact bullet receives when ogive hits feed ramp. Also, hardly anyone new to hand gun reloading understands the difference between GI magazines and hybrid magazines. GI magazines, no crimp and hollow points. This combination is set back city.

Modern ammunition makers have kept up with the times and apply a heavy crimp. We need to catch up too. Our job as teachers has gotten harder teaching loaders .45acp. We need a comprehensive understanding of all .45acp hand guns made because what works for the old bullseye 1911 won't hunt in a Sig chambered 45acp.

Also 1911s have changed too. A gentleman I had the pleasure to visit with on range  was asking how to load reduced recoil 45acp loads for his 1911. My gears immediately engaged government model, when he pulled a 3" Kimber out of his bag it was an oh, shit moment because everything I had told him didn't apply to his 1911.

One last thought to leave for you guys "just removing the bell".

What happens to bullet when cartridge is chambered. Does it stay put or ride forward into rifling ?

Chances are you will never know until too late. Add this scenario to a light charge of Accurate # 2 and kaboom.

All it takes is once.




Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile


Damn...  You were too quick with your edit.

Anyway.......  I DO agree with you on crimp, and every reloading forum thread I've posted info in (except for the IMI thread), I have stated a crimp of .469-.471".  Well, I failed to mention that in my above post, because I know that "removing the bell" to me is the same as a taper crimp of .469-.471".  I agree I need to quit "assuming" people know what I mean, and spell everything out...

But, aren't we getting a little freakish on how we want people to word their posts?  Don't think I'm making excuses here, but common sense needs to come from the OP, too.  We all need to stress that nothing is cut and dried when it comes to reloading.  You and I have five of the most common manuals, we have the most basic necessities (scales, calipers, case gauges, chronos, etc.).  An OP needs to bring common sense and a good dose of technical know-how to the reloading table.  Someone else could have just as easily created a liability for themselves and Arfcom if the OP was told to seat the bullets to the cannelure and roll the crimp in......and the OP was using 45cal Hornady XTP's......but failed to mention they were 250 grain!!!!!

I hope I'm not out of line with the above, but I really am worried about providing the wrong info because I'm not thorough enough or eloquent enough in my post response.  You definitely have more experience than I do, mainly with the 1911 series.  I load primarily for forced-feed pistols, and tweak the loads to work (albeit in the name of safety!) for my 1911's.  I trust your info when I see it.   but I'm not one to intentionally give bad info, and feel bad if I do.  Yes, I like that you give constructive criticism.

Now, getting to the point of this post, I don't want to get banned for not being specific enough in my posted responses.  From this point on, I'll strive to be more descriptive and thorough.  This has actually been on my mind since last night when you mentioned Maryland_Shooter.  I did a search, but wasn't able to pin down why he was banned, but I'm beginning to think it was for giving mis-information.  Am I right?

I don't want to get this thread locked, so if it was for giving bad info, could either you or Aero send me a PM and at least link me to the thread where things went awry with him? This cryptic shit like what was posted in the locked thread last night, does nothing to help me learn what would get me in trouble. And yes, I've read the forum rules.

ETA:  edited, because my damn iPhone likes to cut and paste when I hit the wrong keys.


I removed the COC #6 violation part of that post that was not fit for this forum.

That thread was going nowhere and I locked it after the last post.

StevesZZ5 you are in no trouble with me about your post above.

It is the OP's responsibility to evaluate the information posted, then do as he will.

I have no idea what happened with Maryland_Shooter. dryflash3

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