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Posted: 12/27/2010 1:27:01 PM EDT
| Please help me settle a argument, a friend of mine here I occasionally go to the range with came by to see what I was up to and as it happens I was prepping some LC once fired milsurp .308 cases, these had just come out of my tumbler after being sized and trimmed (Go Giraud !!) anyway I was chucking my primer pocket uniformer in my drill and he asked what I was doing and I proceeded to explain that uniforming the pockets made it easier to seat primers and also clean out the crud he then proceeded to as why I did not use a primer pocket brush as well and I told him the uniformer did a better job so the big question is who is right and are both processes necessary ? |
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Some people remove carbon with a uniformer. RCBS used to make one with carbide edges, Whitetail still does. I wouldn't use a plain steel tool on the carbon and expect it to last long.
The primer pockets need to be uniformed one time. After that, how the carbon is removed is optional. A brush works fine for digging carbon out. It's a step I don't do at every reload for all brass. I have some 7.62 NM brass that has the toughest carbon deposits I've seen and a brush struggles to clean these; it works, but a lot of time is requrired. I use the RCBS brushes chucked directly into my drill. |
| I use my Sinclair carbide uniformer to clean primer pockets - it's faster than a brush and does a better job in the corner. I also find that I get a few flakes of brass cut each time I uniform; apparently, the pressures of firing are making the pocket slightly shallower each time. It would take many firings to raise the primer enough to to be a problem; however, I'm loading for accuracy (I compete in NRA Highpower and Long Range - out to 1000 yds) and want my brass UNIFORM. I say stay with the uniformer - there's no reason to use a brush. |
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+1 to the post above. I use a uniformer for everything right now since I don't have any brushes. The upside to using a uniformer is that you eliminate any chance of a high primer...you'll also discover that some makes of brass are more prone to this defect than others. |
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Quoted:
I use my Sinclair carbide uniformer to clean primer pockets - it's faster than a brush and does a better job in the corner. I also find that I get a few flakes of brass cut each time I uniform; apparently, the pressures of firing are making the pocket slightly shallower each time. It would take many firings to raise the primer enough to to be a problem; however, I'm loading for accuracy (I compete in NRA Highpower and Long Range - out to 1000 yds) and want my brass UNIFORM. I say stay with the uniformer - there's no reason to use a brush. This. |
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Most people do not uniform primer pockets. I do. I use the tool afterwards to quickly clean the carbon out. You can hold it in your fingers for that purpose. Very little effort is needed to clean carbon out once the pocket has been uniformed.
The added benefit of doing things this way, is you will immediately discover stray cases you picked up by mistake. Unless they uniformed the pocket too, it will become apparent that they have never been touched before and that case will get culled for other duties. It's a safe guard against strange brass entering your match ammo bin. |
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Quoted:
Most people do not uniform primer pockets. I do. I use the tool afterwards to quickly clean the carbon out. You can hold it in your fingers for that purpose. Very little effort is needed to clean carbon out once the pocket has been uniformed. The added benefit of doing things this way, is you will immediately discover stray cases you picked up by mistake. Unless they uniformed the pocket too, it will become apparent that they have never been touched before and that case will get culled for other duties. It's a safe guard against strange brass entering your match ammo bin. I totally agree, a "not prepped by me" piece of brass can be found easily. Just like deburing, most don't so it's easy for me to spot my preped brass. |
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Quoted:
I use my Sinclair carbide uniformer to clean primer pockets - it's faster than a brush and does a better job in the corner. I also find that I get a few flakes of brass cut each time I uniform; apparently, the pressures of firing are making the pocket slightly shallower each time. It would take many firings to raise the primer enough to to be a problem; however, I'm loading for accuracy (I compete in NRA Highpower and Long Range - out to 1000 yds) and want my brass UNIFORM. I say stay with the uniformer - there's no reason to use a brush. I get the same results. Keep using just a brush or cleaner. when you have your first high primer and that sucker touches off when your not expecting it to, let me know how that feels. I can tell you from experience, it sucks. I now use a PPU every time. Live and learn or take some good advice. |
| I have brushes in every size(several of each) and a Hornady PP cleaner, never used a brush and the Hornady works OK at best. The best thing to "clean" a PP is a Lyman uniformer that had the depth stop removed(fell off), it's not carbide and will not cut into the PP at all but removes all the carbon, the only reason I do that is because I still run each case over my Redding PP uniformer for consistent depth(as said it will cut a "little" each time) and this keeps them all the same every time plus it's just the next step on my Trim Mate in finishing the case prep after trimming for my case prep operation. |
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