Armory Sponsor
Posted: 12/25/2010 6:40:47 AM EDT
|
What methods are you using to apply it .
Just got some when I got a cal. conversion. I think I'm putting too much on . How long can you leave the cases after you lube them ? Meaning, does it dry out quickly or do you have a day or or hour or two ? I've been a pad guy ,up until now , See what you people are doing to an old man . New tricks ! |
|
Quoted: What methods are you using to apply it . Put the brass in a gallon Zip lock baggy, spray, and shake throw in CF Just got some when I got a cal. conversion. I think I'm putting too much on . How long can you leave the cases after you lube them ? Meaning, does it dry out quickly or do you have a day or or hour or two ? I really do not think is can DRY out but if left out for too long it will collect dust, I will sometimes leave them in the CF over night. I've been a pad guy ,up until now , See what you people are doing to an old man . New tricks ! |
|
The plastic bag method is a good technique.
The method of spraying flat cases and then rolling them a bit for an additional spray on the dry side works fine too. Wait about five minutes, and then you are ready to go for it. If it is .223, the inside of the cases necks may need a touch of spray as well. If you use a carbide button on your sizing die (Dillon), you will be fine. |
|
I spray one side of the cases in a flat pan then roll them around. I let them dry for about a half hour at least, to allow as much of the alcohol to evaporate. Re-size too soon and the lanolin lube is too diluted in the alcohol and wait too long the lanolin is hard to remove. Waited a week once and it seemed to work better until I tried to remove the lube. Right after sizing I wash the lube off in hot soapy water and then let the cases dry.
|
| I will put approx 100 .308 cases in a large plastic bowl and give it a spray and roll around and then another spray and will do this 2-3 times and then let them sit for 5-6 mins then start sizing and have never had a stuck case it the 2 1/2 years I have been reloading and even after all the brass I have sized maybe 5-6 K I still have about 1/2 of a bottle |
I use the open box method. Dedicated lube box, shake cases holding box at a 45 degree angle. About half of the cases will be neck up. 2 sprays, holding lube at an angle to get lube into the inside of the neck. This saves lubing the inside of the neck in a separate step. Shake box and repeat 2 sprays. 
After sizing, tumble in plain corn cob to remove the lube. Then on to the rest of case prep. The whole process is covered up in Tutorials, "reloading 223" a 4 part series. I use the same exact methods as the tutorial., It's a good read. For more good info, check out the FAQ's also. 
|
|
Quoted:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/How%20To/P8030260.jpg I use the open box method. Dedicated lube box, shake cases holding box at a 45 degree angle. About half of the cases will be neck up. 2 sprays, holding lube at an angle to get lube into the inside of the neck. This saves lubing the inside of the neck in a separate step. Shake box and repeat 2 sprays. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tumbling/PC290354.jpg After sizing, tumble in plain corn cob to remove the lube. Then on to the rest of case prep. The whole process is covered up in Tutorials, "reloading 223" a 4 part series. I use the same exact methods as the tutorial., It's a good read. For more good info, check out the FAQ's also.
+1 on this method. I have had ZERO stuck cases since I changed to this method. Mikey |
|
Quoted:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/How%20To/P8030260.jpg I use the open box method. Dedicated lube box, shake cases holding box at a 45 degree angle. About half of the cases will be neck up. 2 sprays, holding lube at an angle to get lube into the inside of the neck. This saves lubing the inside of the neck in a separate step. Shake box and repeat 2 sprays. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tumbling/PC290354.jpg After sizing, tumble in plain corn cob to remove the lube. Then on to the rest of case prep. The whole process is covered up in Tutorials, "reloading 223" a 4 part series. I use the same exact methods as the tutorial., It's a good read. For more good info, check out the FAQ's also.
I'm using the wet SS media method and have no walnut/corncob/etc. Does the DCL come off in a soap and water bath? Obviously the spray will get on the shoulder. What effect does that have in sizing? |
|
Quoted:
...Re-size too soon and the lanolin lube is too diluted in the alcohol... This is good advice. I just had to remove a stuck case because I tried to resize some brass immediately after applying Dillon case lube. I haven't had any trouble getting it off after using it, however. |
|
Quoted:
Quoted:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/How%20To/P8030260.jpg I use the open box method. Dedicated lube box, shake cases holding box at a 45 degree angle. About half of the cases will be neck up. 2 sprays, holding lube at an angle to get lube into the inside of the neck. This saves lubing the inside of the neck in a separate step. Shake box and repeat 2 sprays. http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg272/dryflash3/Tumbling/PC290354.jpg After sizing, tumble in plain corn cob to remove the lube. Then on to the rest of case prep. The whole process is covered up in Tutorials, "reloading 223" a 4 part series. I use the same exact methods as the tutorial., It's a good read. For more good info, check out the FAQ's also.
I'm using the wet SS media method and have no walnut/corncob/etc. Does the DCL come off in a soap and water bath? Obviously the spray will get on the shoulder. What effect does that have in sizing? I use corn cob to remove the lube, other than that, wipe off with alcohol and a rag I guess. Never tried any other way. No lube dents on the shoulders, this lube is thinner than the old RCBS lube and pad method. |
|
I use those aluminum turkey pans, the kind you put the turkey in when you put it in the oven. I put the brass in there and shake it to try to get as many standing up, mouth up, as possible. Then I spray them a little, 2 or 3 pumps, shake them up and try to get them to stand again, spray another pump or 2. Then I let it sit for at least 5 minutes, but I've left them for up to an hour and they were just as good after an hour as they were after 5 minutes. I don't think you can leave them too long, I think once the lanolin is there it's there.
ETA: I also spray a pump into the sizing die itself, just to make things easier. |
|
I preclean brass with walnut shell and a little mineral spirits added.
I spray 5-6 shots of Dillon case lube into a 1 gallon ziploc- before adding brass. I then scoop 1 quart of brass, dump into the gallon bag, and shake/roll it for a minute. Open the bag and let it breathe 10 minutes or so. This leaves a very thin film on the outside of the brass, and case lube dents are never a problem. I then prep in a 650, at a rate of about 15 cases per minute. Decapped, sized and trimmed. Dump back in the tumbler, spray a light mist of mineral sprits on the brass, then run for a couple of minutes. Lube is gone and brass is ready to: 1- load as-is, OR. 2- acid wash then ceramic bead polish. |
Armory Sponsor