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Posted: 10/27/2010 9:17:24 PM EDT
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Any recommendations on what to use to clean my new Power Measure? It is the Hornady measure included in the classic reloading kit. I'm not sure if Brake cleaner is too strong, or use something like simple green or 409. |
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Why are you cleaning it? Because it comes with a preservative coating, and the instructions say to clean. You are going to have to run powder through it again to get it coated with graphite. You are thinking of the Lee PM instructions. Unless it became contaminated with something there is no reason to do anything beyond gently wiping with a dryer sheet. See above, dryer sheet is for static electricity, not preservative. |
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i think hornady says to use their dry lube after its clean. i did that and all of my hornady stuff has surface rust on it now. PS does the dryer sheet keep the powder from sticking to the inside? NEW dryer sheets will help. They tend to neutralize the static charge plastic reservoirs build up, and it's the static that causes most of the powder sticking issues people have. Everything but bridging is at least better when you store the measure with a dryer sheet inside the reservoir. |
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I've taken my powder feeders apart and used 95% rubbing alcohol on metal parts. Let dry, reassemble, and fill with powder. I then work a good volume of powder through the mechanism and let it go back into the powder container. It works.
Brake, choke.... cleaners are harsh and can remove paint, some powder coats, plastics, o-rings.... If you have a plastic viewing globe it will react to most car part cleaners and crack, craze or sag. I usually clean my powder feeder after each use with canned air often used to clean computers. If you get a shot of liquid propellant from the can it will craze an RCBS reservoir as fast as you can cuss. |
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whats "bridging"? Sorry pretty new to reloading. That's when the powder, usually extruded, does not flow smoothly into a small necked cartridge like 223. Extruded powder is shaped like little logs, and can stick cross ways at the neck and form a sort of bridge, called bridging. |
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I clean all my PM's(Redding BR3, 2-Hornady LnL PM's) and dies with Hornady's Cleaner & Dry lube when new and they work great and have never rusted bad enough I couldnt wipe off the surface rust and reapply the cleaner & dry lube to keep them protected.
Only the dies have needed the extra cleaning from touching them so much, the PM's once cleaned the first time don't seem to rust since they get very little handling on the parts that rust most often, even if you use something else to clean yours you still need to apply some kind of dry lube to keep them protected and the Hornady stuff is really very good. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Why are you cleaning it? Because it comes with a preservative coating, and the instructions say to clean. You are going to have to run powder through it again to get it coated with graphite. You are thinking of the Lee PM instructions. Unless it became contaminated with something there is no reason to do anything beyond gently wiping with a dryer sheet. See above, dryer sheet is for static electricity, not preservative. ALL powder measures need to have some powder run through them to coat the inside of the measure. The Lee just happens to also need it. The graphite coating also helps with static by preventing its formation and distributing any charge over the entire surface. Graphite is a conductor. |
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Quoted:
i think hornady says to use their dry lube after its clean. i did that and all of my hornady stuff has surface rust on it now. PS does the dryer sheet keep the powder from sticking to the inside? What other options are there than the Hornady Dry Lube? I take it WD40 is out of the question. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
i think hornady says to use their dry lube after its clean. i did that and all of my hornady stuff has surface rust on it now. PS does the dryer sheet keep the powder from sticking to the inside? What other options are there than the Hornady Dry Lube? I take it WD40 is out of the question. A water based case lube will work just fine-and it will be more likely to coat surfaces evenly enough to block atmospheric moisture. It's important to make sure the steel surfaces are CLEAN before coating them-you could accidentally "coat" corrosive stuff like finger oils onto the steel. Dryer sheets do a great job of knocking down the static build up that makes powder flakes/grains stick to the inside of the hopper. You need to use a fresh sheet after every loading session, especially if you're going to put the measure up for a few weeks. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Why are you cleaning it? Because it comes with a preservative coating, and the instructions say to clean. You are going to have to run powder through it again to get it coated with graphite. You are thinking of the Lee PM instructions. Unless it became contaminated with something there is no reason to do anything beyond gently wiping with a dryer sheet. See above, dryer sheet is for static electricity, not preservative. ALL powder measures need to have some powder run through them to coat the inside of the measure. I've never found it necessary. The Lee just happens to also need it. The graphite coating also helps with static by preventing its formation and distributing any charge over the entire surface. Graphite is a conductor. |
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