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Posted: 8/21/2010 4:27:47 PM EDT
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Here's a dumb reloading question for ya. I started reloading pistols, starting with 45.
So I followed the directions and belled the mouth on the first test case. Looked good, seated the bullet to the proper length etc. Slapped it in a mag to test in my 1911 and the slide won't close on the case. Check it against factory loaded case and its .005 wider. So I try another one, I don't bell the mouth at all on this one. Seat the bullet etc, get it loaded to the length I want and its dead on compared to the factory case. So my question is, am I screwing myself by not belling the mouth? |
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Here's another question. Looking at the dillion website, they don't seem to include a flaring die. Is it built into the sizing die? flare = bell Ya ya, wrong choice of words. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24445/catid/4/Dillon_Carbide_Pistol_Dies__Three_Die_Sets_ Thats their list on their website, and I don't see a 'belling" die any where on there. |
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Here's another question. Looking at the dillion website, they don't seem to include a flaring die. Is it built into the sizing die? flare = bell Ya ya, wrong choice of words. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/24445/catid/4/Dillon_Carbide_Pistol_Dies__Three_Die_Sets_ Thats their list on their website, and I don't see a 'belling" die any where on there. u flare/bell with the powder station,,,, the powder funnel in the Conversion Kit flare/bells the case..... here's the part # for the .45 .. 13782 |
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Yup I see that thanks. Sounds like dillon is the way to go. I don't know what dies you are using, but they will work as is. You just need to adjust them properly. Loosen the seater stem on your seater die and back the stem out a turn or two. Place a belled case without a bullet in the shell holder and turn the die body down until the case mouth comes out reading .470" to .471". Place a loaded bullet (store bought using the same bullet or one of your reloads that is already seated to the proper length) and run it up though the die. When it's all the way in you can turn the seating stem down so it just touch's the bullet. Every round will be the proper length and have the flair removed after this. Double check in your case gage or your barrel after removing it from your pistol. Use your calipers to fine tune length. |
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Yup I see that thanks. Sounds like dillon is the way to go. I don't know what dies you are using, but they will work as is. You just need to adjust them properly. Loosen the seater stem on your seater die and back the stem out a turn or two. Place a belled case without a bullet in the shell holder and turn the die body down until the case mouth comes out reading .470" to .471". Place a loaded bullet (store bought using the same bullet or one of your reloads that is already seated to the proper length) and run it up though the die. When it's all the way in you can turn the seating stem down so it just touch's the bullet. Every round will be the proper length and have the flair removed after this. Double check in your case gage or your barrel after removing it from your pistol. Use your calipers to fine tune length. How much flare do you normally put in? |
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Are you using an RCBS carbide 3-die set?
Sounds like it. That's what I use for all my pistol calibers, and I love 'em. What you're seeing in the instructions is how you adjust that last die...it seats and crimps in one operation. It'll take a bit of "trial and error", but you'll see, it can work. Basically, get the seater plug turned down where it needs to be for OAL, then you keep turning down the whole die, while holding onto the seater plug (not allowing it to rotate), so the whole dies goes down into the press, and the seater plug stays where it was... A turn or two at a time, then run the round back up into the die...turn down, repeat...you get my drift. You'll reach a point where it's crimping sufficiently. This is where you then tighten the nut on the seater plug, and tighten the lock ring on the die down against the press, and lock your set screw. Don't turn the set screw too tight, they tend to strip. A piece of lead shot inside the screwhole, between the die body and the screw, can aid in tightening without stripping. |
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Enough flair/bell that allows the bullet base to NOT shear off on the case mouth or crush the case mouth. It is that simple. Then having adjusted the crimp die, which contains the SEATING stem, seat the bullet & remove the bell/flair in the same stroke of the press handle. Adjust the seating stem first to where you want the bullet to be/OAL. Then
gradually turn the die BODY down until you can remove the bell/flair by cycling the press handle. Do not over do the crimp. Problem you can have with taper crimp die is that it is way to easy to OVER taper crimp which if done, taper resizes the bullet at the same time. You do not want to do that. |
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