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Posted: 7/13/2010 10:16:29 PM EDT
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Im just starting to get into reloading, and have gotten everything except some dies.
Ive read my book 3 times and still am a little confused about these two dies. Whats the difference? I understand the description, but do I need the three piece set? Or will the two suffice? Sorry if this is a stupid question, just want to make sure Im G2G! 3 piece 2 piece Thanks in advance! |
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Buy this set instead
You generally dont need a collet neck sizing die for a semi-auto. A crimp die, however, is cheap insurance IMO. |
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If going with Lee, this Quoted: Buy this set instead You generally dont need a collet neck sizing die for a semi-auto. A crimp die, however, is cheap insurance IMO. |
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Sir, while I agree that generally speaking one shouldn't need or want to use a collet neck die for .223 Rem in a semi auto gas operated rifle if you're intending to reload for a bolt action rifle maybe you might want to consider it.
The use of the Lee factory crimp die is a choice most of us have to make, I personally have never had the need given adequate case neck tension on the bullet. The idea is to make sure the bullet will not be pushed further into the case as it feeds up and into the rifle chamber but also to ensure the bullet doesn't move forward into the rifle throat due to enertia as it slams into the rifle chamber and the bolt closes behind it. If the grip of the case mouth on the bullet is sufficient you don't need to crimp the bullet. Bullets that do not have crimp grooves are not intended to be crimped and doing so will cause some distortion of the bullet bearing surface and I've never considered that deformation an enhancement to the precision of the bullet. If the ID of the case neck after resizing is .002" less than the bullet OD then you really don't need to crimp. FWIW, I've never had much use for Lee dies. Regardless the price there are better dies available, Redding type "S" is my personal choice for .223 Rem. Just my humble opinion. 7zero1 out. |
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Quoted:
Sir, while I agree that generally speaking one shouldn't need or want to use a collet neck die for .223 Rem in a semi auto gas operated rifle if you're intending to reload for a bolt action rifle maybe you might want to consider it. The use of the Lee factory crimp die is a choice most of us have to make, I personally have never had the need given adequate case neck tension on the bullet. The idea is to make sure the bullet will not be pushed further into the case as it feeds up and into the rifle chamber but also to ensure the bullet doesn't move forward into the rifle throat due to enertia as it slams into the rifle chamber and the bolt closes behind it. If the grip of the case mouth on the bullet is sufficient you don't need to crimp the bullet. Bullets that do not have crimp grooves are not intended to be crimped and doing so will cause some distortion of the bullet bearing surface and I've never considered that deformation an enhancement to the precision of the bullet. If the ID of the case neck after resizing is .002" less than the bullet OD then you really don't need to crimp. FWIW, I've never had much use for Lee dies. Regardless the price there are better dies available, Redding type "S" is my personal choice for .223 Rem. Just my humble opinion. 7zero1 out. X2 I also like Forster dies too, mostly because they will custom hone the necks to whatever size you specify for $12.00 plus round trip shipping. Buy their standard benchrest .223 die and ship it to Forster with instructions to hone the neck to .245". You'll have a custom die for under $50.00 total investment. Their benchrest seating dies are great too, just make sure you buy the more expensive one, it has .001" increments marked on it for easy to read adjustments. the |
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Quoted:
If going with Lee, this Quoted:
Buy this set instead You generally dont need a collet neck sizing die for a semi-auto. A crimp die, however, is cheap insurance IMO. Get this set if you want to crimp, the 2 die set if you don't want to crimp. |
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