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Posted: 5/2/2010 7:42:16 AM EDT
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Guys,
I looked around and couldn't find this topic discussed. I'm just starting in the re-loading game and have the PPM. Having read the other thread, I didn't see anyone talk about the micrometer. Having read the directions, I looked carefully at the metering chamber and discovered that there is no tick mark to tell you where the "0" spot may be when adjusting. The directions tell you that if a number is visible on the metering rod, that is the number of cc's, and the number of turns gives you the proper .1 measurement; however, there is no benchmark mentioned on where the adjustment should begin and end to make it accurate. Do you look down on it, or at 90 degrees? Where should the numbers line up to achieve the "0" spot? The .01 number adjustments seem to be attached to the o-ring, but in what position does the o-ring need to be in to make for a more accurate setting? Thanks guys... Fixed the title. I couldn't figure out what the hell you were discussing until after I replied. AeroE |
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This isn't the most scientific answer but I I've got the same setup never had luck immediately/accurately setting the right powder/volume setting. Just start low, measure the powder drop and work it up. Then write down the "ballpark" setting you use on the black bar for that particular powder/load to use in the future.
It's always going to take a few minutes of dropping powder, adjusting, and rechecking 3 times before you start cranking out rounds. Just make sure that locking screw is tight when you finally choose a setting, and also double check that your setting isn't floating around on you every 5-10 rounds. (You don't want any surprises if that screw loosens up  )
I use a silver sharpie to mark roughly on the bar where it needs to be for what load and that gets me close, then I just do quarter turns until it drops the right load. |
| I don't think it is a precise setting right off the bat, but it's pretty close, and can be dialed in quickly. Once it is adjusted, it's right on for me with ball powders, and pretty darn close with stick powders. It may be cheap, but it works well. I initially bought it to compliment my Lyman, but now use it exclusively. |
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There may not be a "zero" (the plunger drags on the measure body before the vernier reads zero) and it not only doesn't matter, the charge thrown must be checked on a scale, especially when changing lots. The calibration might match the weights with some particular gunpowder, but that is accidental and assuredly won't be close for other gunpowders.
Record the reading on the vernier and the weight of powder thrown with that lot. Return to that setting when starting a new batch, check the weight, tweak the setting and press on. |
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