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USA
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Posted: 3/27/2020 1:11:11 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Trollslayer]
[#1]
Does anyone know what's different between the liquid lanolin and the solid lanolin? They both claim to be 100% lanolin.
The solid looks a lot like Imperial Sizing Die Wax, so I tend to favor that. The liquid is what is shown in this thread and looks to be easier to get into solution. |
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Posted: 3/27/2020 11:22:31 AM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Drake: And just like that, all the isopropyl alcohol is gone. Guess I’m going to have to break quarantine and go get some iso beet..... Amazon has it. I just ordered 8 bottles of it and they showed up fairly quickly. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/27/2020 2:44:43 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Trollslayer: Does anyone know what's different between the liquid lanolin and the solid lanolin? They both claim to be 100% lanolin. The solid looks a lot like Imperial Sizing Die Wax, so I tend to favor that. The liquid is what is shown in this thread and looks to be easier to get into solution. Do yourself a favor and get the liquid its much easier. Pour together give it some good shakes all is well. The first time we did it my brother got the solid you have to put the container it in hot water to get it to melt where you can mix it with alcohol Then it wants to solidify in 99% alcohol you have to shake the ever loving snot out of it .every time u use it....... even if it was 1/4 the cost its to much trouble. |
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USA
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Posted: 3/27/2020 4:04:03 PM EDT
[#4]
Thank you, sounds exactly right.
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Posted: 3/28/2020 10:07:24 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Trollslayer: Thank you, sounds exactly right. That’s absolutely true. My first batch was with anhydrous (“butter”) lanolin. I had to warm the butter, mix it HARD, and later when I went to use it I had to warm the mix up (soak the bottle in hot water for several minutes) before the waxy part dissolved again. Liquid lanolin is also easier to deal with. The “butter” type is very much like paste wax. With liquid, you just pour it in. I’ve been considering buying a quart of denatured alcohol, now that isopropyl is scarce. I’m not hurting for the IPA yet, but I use it for a lot of cleaning tasks (removing solvent residue, etc.), so the denatured stuff is on my list, along with odorless mineral spirits. |
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SD, USA
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Posted: 3/28/2020 2:26:23 PM EDT
[#6]
If you go to a auto part store you can buy a product like NAPA MAC's gasoline anti freeze (iso alcohol).
There are others like Nox Ice (made by PenRay) that I get at my fuel stop. I have no problem with finding this product, used to get it in 5 gallon bucket's. Just Google isopropyl gas line anti freeze. sdshooter…………... |
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Posted: 3/29/2020 9:45:53 AM EDT
[#7]
Ok, I still haven't seen it answered. Does it, or does it not, require removal before priming and charging?
The time I have to spend re-tumbling the cases is worth the cost of oneshot to me. So far a big can of OS will do like 2k or 3k 223 cases for me. At that point I don't care about the $10 to save me tumbling. |
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Posted: 3/29/2020 11:33:55 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FritzTKatt: Ok, I still haven't seen it answered. Does it, or does it not, require removal before priming and charging? The time I have to spend re-tumbling the cases is worth the cost of oneshot to me. So far a big can of OS will do like 2k or 3k 223 cases for me. At that point I don't care about the $10 to save me tumbling. Lanolin is an organic wax that does not in any way interact with powder or primers. So no, you don’t need to remove the cheap lube. On the other hand, I usually toss 100 to 200 cases in the corn cob tumbler while I move on to size another 100 to 200 or so. It only takes 15 to 20 minutes to really fully remove appropriate amounts of home brew lube. If it takes longer to get the lube off, you’re using too much. I am still using the same half gallon or so of corn cob media I’ve used since December. I poured about 1 ounce of IPA into it to help with removing the lanolin - it still smells like there’s plenty of alcohol in it, and it still works great. And while it’s not a problem, the lanolin on the outsides of cases feels tacky enough to me that I want to get rid of it. |
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Posted: 3/29/2020 12:14:12 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FritzTKatt: Ok, I still haven't seen it answered. Does it, or does it not, require removal before priming and charging? The time I have to spend re-tumbling the cases is worth the cost of oneshot to me. So far a big can of OS will do like 2k or 3k 223 cases for me. At that point I don't care about the $10 to save me tumbling. |
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Posted: 3/29/2020 12:42:41 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FritzTKatt]
[#10]
Originally Posted By GHPorter: Lanolin is an organic wax that does not in any way interact with powder or primers. So no, you don’t need to remove the cheap lube. On the other hand, I usually toss 100 to 200 cases in the corn cob tumbler while I move on to size another 100 to 200 or so. It only takes 15 to 20 minutes to really fully remove appropriate amounts of home brew lube. If it takes longer to get the lube off, you’re using too much. I am still using the same half gallon or so of corn cob media I’ve used since December. I poured about 1 ounce of IPA into it to help with removing the lanolin - it still smells like there’s plenty of alcohol in it, and it still works great. And while it’s not a problem, the lanolin on the outsides of cases feels tacky enough to me that I want to get rid of it. Originally Posted By dryflash3: Yes and any lube should be removed. Ok. Now it's definitely worth it, but at the same time, I do have 5 big cans of OS on the shelf, which should last me a very long time with .223. .308 is a different story and I might have to try some bootleg on those. With OS I have to spray the piss out of them for easy sizing, not a big deal but it is wasteful. Namely getting enough inside the necks. With 308 and 06, the same coverage of OS on the body is dandy, but once the mouth hits the expander ball, it's like wrestling a bear. On the thirties, I just put them in a loading block to ensure enough gets in the mouth. Which I feel is likely still a problem using bootleg, but the quantity required is much less. ETA: the .223 cases get put in clean tray and a good spray-roll-spray-roll-spray. Basically what y'all are doing with the bootleg. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 3/29/2020 12:58:05 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Yes and any lube should be removed. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By FritzTKatt: Ok, I still haven't seen it answered. Does it, or does it not, require removal before priming and charging? The time I have to spend re-tumbling the cases is worth the cost of oneshot to me. So far a big can of OS will do like 2k or 3k 223 cases for me. At that point I don't care about the $10 to save me tumbling. Listen to dryflash on this. My brother and i had to try out sizing 30 carbine as soon as we got the dies no powder on hand. So we left the sized still lubed cases siting in an open container in the reloading shop this ended up being pretty extended stay several months. Corn cob would not remove the gummy mess it turned into...... they had to be wet tumbled to remove it. I love this lube it works like a champ and i probably use to much but i don't get shoulder dents etc so not an insane amount. I'll never leave it on again like that though. |
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Posted: 3/30/2020 11:22:29 AM EDT
[#12]
Easiest way to remove the lube.....
I picked up a 2 gal bucket from Home Depot. And a 1 gal container of Denatured Alcohol. Straight handled toilet brush from Dollar Store. This works with up to around 800-1000 pieces of .223 brass. Pour brass in 2 gal bucket. Pour 1 gal Denatured Alcohol into bucket. Attach lid and let it sit for 5-10 min. Agitate with brush a little. Remove brass 1 handful at a time with gloves. Lay brass on towel, or put in direct sun in a cardboard box. Pour alcohol back into container with funnel. Done. I usually do this step after sizing, but before trimming and primer pocket reaming. After all prep is done, I tumble. |
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Posted: 4/4/2020 1:37:45 AM EDT
[#13]
I'm still just cruisin' along on my first little tin of Imperial Die Wax I got back in 2006.
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Posted: 4/4/2020 6:09:16 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By acman145acp: Listen to dryflash on this. My brother and i had to try out sizing 30 carbine as soon as we got the dies no powder on hand. So we left the sized still lubed cases siting in an open container in the reloading shop this ended up being pretty extended stay several months. Corn cob would not remove the gummy mess it turned into...... they had to be wet tumbled to remove it. I love this lube it works like a champ and i probably use to much but i don't get shoulder dents etc so not an insane amount. I'll never leave it on again like that though. So far not an issue with OS. (I'm really not trying to ruin the black panther party, or be argumentative) Have cases that have been covered in it for about a year now. Stored in kitty litter buckets (which I had flushed with water and wiped out with OS). Cases are still slick, but not enough to resize again. They have dulled a bit from the bright+shiny when I resized. Trimming them, I have noticed a few with junk in the primer pockets, from using rcbs lube on my pocket swaging nipple. They were tumbled after swaging, before resizing. At this point I'm probably going to run them back through the tumbler for a half hour to get some shine back, and get rid of any trimming chips, but then again I don't feel like dealing with media stuck in the flash holes. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 4/4/2020 9:48:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: acman145acp]
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FritzTKatt: So far not an issue with OS. (I'm really not trying to ruin the black panther party, or be argumentative) Have cases that have been covered in it for about a year now. Stored in kitty litter buckets (which I had flushed with water and wiped out with OS). Cases are still slick, but not enough to resize again. They have dulled a bit from the bright+shiny when I resized. Trimming them, I have noticed a few with junk in the primer pockets, from using rcbs lube on my pocket swaging nipple. They were tumbled after swaging, before resizing. At this point I'm probably going to run them back through the tumbler for a half hour to get some shine back, and get rid of any trimming chips, but then again I don't feel like dealing with media stuck in the flash holes. No argument just discussing what happened....... My reloading shop is an outdoor building not climate controlled like i said they were left uncovered. (my bad) they turned into a gummy dusty mess. If they were covered or in a climate controlled area idk maybe it wouldn't happen........ I'm still never leaving the lube on again wet tumbling is not my thing. ETA oh your talking about one shot yea i got no experience with it ........ The cheap case lube is all i will ever use from now on unless i'm just sizing a few then it's imperial. |
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Posted: 4/29/2020 10:29:29 PM EDT
[#16]
So, what are some alternatives to isopropyl alcohol in a post covid market place?
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Posted: 4/29/2020 11:28:35 PM EDT
[#17]
ISO Heet., in the red container. Some places put in the back for spring and summer. And are usually happy to get it for you if you ask. The Local Ace and Farm and barns stores are great for this.
They do it with the 1lb propane bottles as well even though they sell the lil buddy heaters. |
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Posted: 4/30/2020 11:52:25 AM EDT
[#18]
Denatured alcohol works too. It's still available at Lowes, last time I looked (a week ago). Denatured is ethanol (grain alcohol) with an additive (or additives) to make it "unsuitable for consumption". Basically that changes it from a taxable product (like Everclear) into one that isn't taxable, and makes it much less expensive too.
Whichever alcohol type you use to mix with your lanolin really shouldn't make a functional difference. I like either isopropyl or ethanol because there are fewer "other ingredients". ISO Heet, for example, is 98.5% IPA, and has three proprietary ingredients (combined for about 1.5% of the product) that do...who knows. They are listed as having various toxicities in the MSDS (like IPA isn't toxic?  ), but what happens when they evaporate in my loading room? Not something I want to play with.
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MI, USA
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Posted: 4/30/2020 12:07:30 PM EDT
[#19]
New guy here -- and it will show with this question. I've been resizing brass and using this homebrew lube. I saw using too much can cause issues. I don't think I use too much, but what should I be looking out for?
I generally lay out on a towel, give a couple spray bottle mists over roughly 300 - 400 cases, roll them over and repeat. I haven't noticed issues, but curious what to look for. |
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Posted: 4/30/2020 12:27:07 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By adawg: New guy here -- and it will show with this question. I've been resizing brass and using this homebrew lube. I saw using too much can cause issues. I don't think I use too much, but what should I be looking out for? I generally lay out on a towel, give a couple spray bottle mists over roughly 300 - 400 cases, roll them over and repeat. I haven't noticed issues, but curious what to look for. as far as using too much, look out for dents in the cases that were not there when you put the case in the die its not as big of an issue using spray on lubes and using reasonably light coats |
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CA, USA
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Posted: 5/22/2020 3:04:05 PM EDT
[#21]
Liquid lanolin and 95% Isopropyl works great with pistol cases. Throw a few hundred in a ziplock bag with a few squirts and shake.
Pour into a large pail and hit them with a heat gun to quickly evaporate the alcohol. shake and bake! They run effortlessly through the APP when sizing and bulge busting. Less messy than the RCBS roll-on lube I sometimes use with rifle sizing and much faster to apply. |
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Posted: 8/8/2020 10:23:21 PM EDT
[#22]
I have used gallons of One Shot and have always had good results. It's just expensive and goes fast because I apply it liberally. I stumbled across this thread and found it intriguing and decided to give it a try. I bought a 12oz container of Iso Heet at a local auto parts store and found liquid lanolin with free shipping on Amazon. I mixed the 12oz of isopropyl with 1 oz of lanolin. Applied it to about 300 .223 cases and ran them through my AP. All I can say is wow, I am a believer! The press ran as smooth as butter and way better than with One Shot. I wet/pin tumble my rifle cases after resizing and trimming so I don't worry about getting the stuff off, but IMO the coating is no heavier than One Shot and the 12:1 mix is fine. Thanks to all of the prior posters who have weighed in on this and provided source info for the materials!!
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/8/2020 11:37:09 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By fourstar: I have used gallons of One Shot and have always had good results. It's just expensive and goes fast because I apply it liberally. I stumbled across this thread and found it intriguing and decided to give it a try. I bought a 12oz container of Iso Heet at a local auto parts store and found liquid lanolin with free shipping on Amazon. I mixed the 12oz of isopropyl with 1 oz of lanolin. Applied it to about 300 .223 cases and ran them through my AP. All I can say is wow, I am a believer! The press ran as smooth as butter and way better than with One Shot. I wet/pin tumble my rifle cases after resizing and trimming so I don't worry about getting the stuff off, but IMO the coating is no heavier than One Shot and the 12:1 mix is fine. Thanks to all of the prior posters who have weighed in on this and provided source info for the materials!! Might check the neck size in your cases since you wet tumbled after sizing. I just tried it and had the necks deform from wet tumbling. I did run them more than usual to get them shiny so that probably contributed to the issue. When using a case trimmer, the mouth of the cases wouldn't always fit on the trimmer pilot. I had to run a neck sizing button through all the case necks first and the issue was resolved. Sharing this just in case someone runs into the same issue from wet tumbling after sizing. I'm going to stick with using the vibrating tumbler for removing lube after sizing from now on... |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 1:24:35 AM EDT
[#24]
I have some 91% isopure alcohol will it fine? I can't find nothing that's 99%.
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Posted: 8/9/2020 4:05:10 AM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By THE_BUSHMAN: I have some 91% isopure alcohol will it fine? I can't find nothing that's 99%. Go to auto store and get the red can of heat gas additive. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 4:05:41 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By THE_BUSHMAN: I have some 91% isopure alcohol will it fine? I can't find nothing that's 99%. Go to auto store and get the red can of heat gas additive. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 11:07:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: fourstar]
[#27]
dupe
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Posted: 8/9/2020 11:07:27 AM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By Blowout: Might check the neck size in your cases since you wet tumbled after sizing. I just tried it and had the necks deform from wet tumbling. I did run them more than usual to get them shiny so that probably contributed to the issue. When using a case trimmer, the mouth of the cases wouldn't always fit on the trimmer pilot. I had to run a neck sizing button through all the case necks first and the issue was resolved. Sharing this just in case someone runs into the same issue from wet tumbling after sizing. I'm going to stick with using the vibrating tumbler for removing lube after sizing from now on... Yes, I have noticed that the wet tumbler peens the case mouths. It also knocks off the burrs from the trimmer so I now skip the debur and chamfer step until after the cases have been tumbled. Then I use a RCBS VLD trimmer to taper the case mouth. Makes loading FBHP bullets much better because it doesn't shave copper from the jacket. I know, it adds steps to the process but it really improves accuracy, which I really appreciate when shooting sage rats. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 11:47:59 AM EDT
[#29]
Blowout, I deprime and wet tumble BEFORE I even size anything. Clean brass is easier to inspect, and it’s easier on my hands and my dies.
I use plain corn cob media to remove case lube. After sizing, a big old batch of brass goes in the vibratory tumbler for about 20 minutes, and it comes out still shiny but with the lanolin “buffed” off by the media. I’ve read that some folks will put mineral spirits in their corn cob media for this, and I’ve added ISO to mine on occasion, which may have improved cleaning a little bit - I may try it again with denatured alcohol, and actually compare with/without. And it’s possible that denatured ethanol may work a little differently from ISO in this. ISO is getting easier to find, but it’s no longer trivial, and 70% is as strong as I’ve been able to find. |
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Posted: 8/9/2020 3:40:01 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Blowout, I deprime and wet tumble BEFORE I even size anything. Clean brass is easier to inspect, and it's easier on my hands and my dies. I use plain corn cob media to remove case lube. After sizing, a big old batch of brass goes in the vibratory tumbler for about 20 minutes, and it comes out still shiny but with the lanolin "buffed" off by the media. Mouth gets peened? Who cares, I'm going to size the case next. I only use corn cob for delube and never add anything to it. |
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Posted: 8/19/2020 5:08:11 PM EDT
[#31]
I know that lanolin is not water soluble, but wouldn't boiling the cases after resizing melt off the lube and get them mostly clean? Add a bit of soap and they should get completely clean.
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CA, USA
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Posted: 8/19/2020 7:17:37 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GHPorter: Blowout, I deprime and wet tumble BEFORE I even size anything. Clean brass is easier to inspect, and it’s easier on my hands and my dies. I use plain corn cob media to remove case lube. After sizing, a big old batch of brass goes in the vibratory tumbler for about 20 minutes, and it comes out still shiny but with the lanolin “buffed” off by the media. I’ve read that some folks will put mineral spirits in their corn cob media for this, and I’ve added ISO to mine on occasion, which may have improved cleaning a little bit - I may try it again with denatured alcohol, and actually compare with/without. And it’s possible that denatured ethanol may work a little differently from ISO in this. ISO is getting easier to find, but it’s no longer trivial, and 70% is as strong as I’ve been able to find. I usually do this too. In this particular instance I had over 2k of cases in various stages of processing that had all been sized. Noticed a number of cases still had tarnish on them (probably from storage over the past year or so), and my OCD got to me so I wet tumbled a second time. It was more efficient to use the wet tumbler than to use my smaller vibrator tumbler. I won't wet tumble after sizing ever again. Lessons learned.
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Posted: 8/19/2020 11:31:01 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Marquar: I know that lanolin is not water soluble, but wouldn't boiling the cases after resizing melt off the lube and get them mostly clean? Add a bit of soap and they should get completely clean. So much easier to dry tumble. So no idea if that would work. |
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PA, USA
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Posted: 1/7/2022 8:53:34 PM EDT
[#34]
One thing I didn't see here is how to mix this by weight instead of volume. The 8 oz spray bottle I used did not have marks on it, and this method could also be useful for small amounts in a large bottle where the marks are far apart or start high.
Due to the different densities of alcohol and lanolin oil, a 12:1 mix by volume, which is commonly recommended through this thread, is only about 10:1 by weight. On a scale, tare out the bottle weight, add 90% of your intended final volume in alcohol, then look at the scale. If it says 95.0 grams, move the decimal place 1 spot left, and you'll want to add 9.5 grams of oil. As others have stated previously, warming the oil so it pours easily is helpful. Thank you everyone for all the info on this, I switched from tubes of Lee resizing lubricant to this and love it. |
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Posted: 1/7/2022 9:34:35 PM EDT
[#35]
I think you’re really going overboard in the precision area. This is not quite “eyeball it” territory (to me, anyway), but mixing by volume has worked perfectly fine for most of us.
I mix 12 parts alcohol to 1 part liquid lanolin, which is 13 parts. Since the lanolin doesn’t instantly dissolve in the alcohol, and since I mix in a cylindrical bottle, the volume of lanolin and volume of alcohol can be abstracted to height in the cylindrical bottle. I measured the height of the cylindrical part of the bottle, then divided by 13. That gave me how high in the bottle the liquid lanolin should be. Pour in lanolin to that line, fill with alcohol, close and shake. Done. I used a “fine” Sharpie to mark the height of the lanolin. (Insert joke about “close enough for government work” here.) The diameter of the bottle doesn’t matter. The “punt” in the bottom (the slightly domed part) doesn’t matter. Just as long as you add both ingredients by their height in the same bottle at the same time, all the other variables cancel out. I have found a real difference between my earlier 10:1 mix ratio and my current 12:1 ratio: brass with the old mix would get sticky if it wasn’t sized promptly, and that meant that dust, grit from stuff around the bench, etc., could stick to it. It’s also quicker and easier to remove the lube with dry tumbling. |
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Posted: 5/6/2022 12:50:43 AM EDT
[#36]
Just wanted to bump this with a PSA - there seems to be a good amount of 99% on the market. Buy it and store it while you can as it has a 2-3 year shelf life.
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Posted: 5/6/2022 10:53:24 AM EDT
[#37]
I make and use this homemade lube and it has totally changed the way I reload and process my brass.
I used to roll my cases on an RCBS case lube pad about 15 at a time and then spray the inside of the necks with One Shot. This minimized the amount of One Shot I had to buy and let me use up the free bottle of case lube that came with my press. Now I can just spray everything down with the homemade stuff in huge 200-300 case batches and not have to worry about individually applying lube to each case. Case processing is soo much easier! |
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Posted: 5/6/2022 12:20:40 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigHunt: I make and use this homemade lube and it has totally changed the way I reload and process my brass. I used to roll my cases on an RCBS case lube pad about 15 at a time and then spray the inside of the necks with One Shot. This minimized the amount of One Shot I had to buy and let me use up the free bottle of case lube that came with my press. Now I can just spray everything down with the homemade stuff in huge 200-300 case batches and not have to worry about individually applying lube to each case. Case processing is soo much easier! 
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SC, USA
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Posted: 5/7/2022 6:08:10 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By BigHunt: I make and use this homemade lube and it has totally changed the way I reload and process my brass. I used to roll my cases on an RCBS case lube pad about 15 at a time and then spray the inside of the necks with One Shot. This minimized the amount of One Shot I had to buy and let me use up the free bottle of case lube that came with my press. Now I can just spray everything down with the homemade stuff in huge 200-300 case batches and not have to worry about individually applying lube to each case. Case processing is soo much easier! Started with the RCBS pad and lube, the started mixing the RCBS lube with denatured alcohol, in a small spray bottle. Have to shake it up before use, couple squirts in a a zip lock bag with about 100 cases, shake / roll the bag around then sort cases in loading block to dry and get ready to load. |
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Posted: 5/7/2022 11:51:51 PM EDT
[#40]
It hit me a while back to spray the inside walls of the bag with one pump and then add the brass. I've never had an issue before with lube getting in the cases, I am sure it did but, makes me feel better.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 5/8/2022 9:14:25 AM EDT
[#41]
I just read all 9 pages this morning. While the alcohol/lanolin mixes sound great, I saw no mention of tincture of green soap.
I have used green soap a lot over the years, mostly with handgun cases going through steel dies. I bought a small bottle last century, and still have some left. Cleanup is very easy. |
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Posted: 5/8/2022 9:20:16 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By grendelbane: I just read all 9 pages this morning. While the alcohol/lanolin mixes sound great, I saw no mention of tincture of green soap. I have used green soap a lot over the years, mostly with handgun cases going through steel dies. I bought a small bottle last century, and still have some left. Cleanup is very easy. This is intriguing. For the rest of us, “tincture of green soap” is basically vegetable oil(s) and glycerine. Glycerine is very slippery; it’s used for things like getting lab ware glass tubes into rubber stoppers (and if you’ve ever tried that, you know how useful glycerine is!). So grendelbane, how do you use the green soap as a case lube? As a “soap,” it should (I guess) rinse off? |
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KY, USA
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Posted: 5/9/2022 3:46:07 AM EDT
[#43]
I dab just a bit on my fingers and rub it over the cases. Try to keep it as thin as possible.
It rinses off well with hot water. Works especially well for 357 SIG in steel dies. I use a single die press. So this process is probably not as good for progressive presses. |
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Posted: 5/11/2022 11:16:39 AM EDT
[Last Edit: wildearp]
[#44]
I remember this thread. Right after seeing it, I was at my neighbor's house in his reloading room and his can of one-shot was in the trash. It made me laugh.I thought I was out of this magic mixture and bought more lanolin. I was wrong, and probably have a lifetime supply of case lube now.
I finally found some reliable fine atomizing glass sprayers on Amazon. It took a couple tries, but these work and are reliable. Amazon also sells the same Lanolin in the OP and high grade alcohol too. I lay out my cases in rows on old newspaper or a B-27 target, and true them up with a ruler. I set two rows mouth to mouth with a slight gap. I hit the mouth/neck area with the fine spray, moving the sprayer down the row as I press the button. Next I roll the rows as close to 90 degrees, and then hit the other side. I haven't had a single stuck case, ever. No tossing in a bag or box at all. After sizing, I remove the lube with ammonia free glass cleaner. What is on the label in the photo isn't what is in the bottle, I use Zep ammonia free cleaner. 
Special note: when your old Dillon lube bottle starts to look like the one in my photo, it will split very soon. 
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Posted: 5/12/2022 2:54:49 PM EDT
[#45]
Two things to tack on...
The plastic in Dillon's (and many other brands) bottle reacts with both the alcohol and lanolin. Mostly the alcohol slowly leaches away the chemicals that keep the plastic flexible, which is what leads to cracks. MESSY cracks. I lucked out with my fine misting pump bottle. It's a small bottle, holding about 4oz, but I picked it up to try without any idea of what sort of spray pattern it had. Win on the first shot! But it's important to use a fine mist, or you waste lube and make a bigger mess than needed. When shopping, look for "fine mist". If I was doing it over again, I'd go with a trigger sprayer, not a push-top type. |
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Posted: 5/12/2022 3:18:35 PM EDT
[#46]
 Guess I'm lucky. Bottle in pic was used with Midway lube and just mixed my third batch of homemade in it. Midway bottle better than Dillon bottle? |
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Posted: 5/12/2022 9:01:10 PM EDT
[#47]
I've had good luck with the Uineko brand spray bottles. put a empty case in the bottom when I make a batch, and use it as an agitator during pre spray shaking like the ball in a paint can.
Currently $11.97 Prime for a 3 pack. |
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Posted: 5/14/2022 4:53:26 AM EDT
[#48]
OK. Great thread.
Question... I use One-Shot and make sure I get a bit inside the case mouth. W/ the homebrew stuff of lanolin & 91% or 99% alcohol, is there any problem with allowing some inside the case mouth? Will the slight amount of water in 91 or 99 cause issues of dampness inside the case? W/ One-Shot I just spray, let dry a few minutes, size/prime, do a rudimentary wipe-off (rolling between wet towels) and shoot. |
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Posted: 5/14/2022 8:16:38 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By EVR: OK. Great thread. Question... I use One-Shot and make sure I get a bit inside the case mouth. W/ the homebrew stuff of lanolin & 91% or 99% alcohol, is there any problem with allowing some inside the case mouth? Will the slight amount of water in 91 or 99 cause issues of dampness inside the case? W/ One-Shot I just spray, let dry a few minutes, size/prime, do a rudimentary wipe-off (rolling between wet towels) and shoot. No problem at all. |
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Posted: 5/14/2022 9:46:06 AM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: No problem at all. Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By dryflash3: Originally Posted By EVR: OK. Great thread. Question... I use One-Shot and make sure I get a bit inside the case mouth. W/ the homebrew stuff of lanolin & 91% or 99% alcohol, is there any problem with allowing some inside the case mouth? Will the slight amount of water in 91 or 99 cause issues of dampness inside the case? W/ One-Shot I just spray, let dry a few minutes, size/prime, do a rudimentary wipe-off (rolling between wet towels) and shoot. No problem at all. VERY interesting!!! Thanks! |
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