Quoted:


And wolf is a non realoadable round if its steel. if its brass your g2g.





Scott

Quoted:
Ok, so I need to get into reloading. Badly. Mainly for .223, but would like to branch into .308, 9mm, and .45 as I get more guns to shoot those calibers.

I read all the links at the top, looked at all the sites online and think I've picked a decent setup, but, having no experience with reloading, I can't honestly tell if I am missing something?

Goal is to reload common brass (some has military primer crimp) and once fired Wolf (the re loadable kind obviously) with 62gr SS109 bullets, RamShot TAC powder, and Small Rifle Magnum primers. I've got all the brass handled already.

Here is the equipment list I've put together. What do you think? I have all the time in the world, so I don't need a real fast setup, just something decently priced that gets me reloading for about .25 cents a round for the first 5K (this is what my list is set to right now)... Your opinions? I am a total n00b so feel free to criticize and call me an idiot if something is wrong

List:























So what do you think?  

Quoted:







I would look at maybe two different powders instead of just one in case your rifle doesnt like TAC, maybe some Varget or RL15  also.



You'll need to add the Lee Factory crimp die to your die list.



You'll need the Lee double disk kit for throwing rifle charges.



I would get dial calipers instead of digital, they are much more user friendly and accurate if you ask me and I have 7-8 set of calipers.

Quoted:


If you have the $ to spend I recommend a RCBS auto powder charge/electronic scale combo. Reloading will be much easier not to mention faster. I use it with a single stage Rock Chucker.



Mike

Quoted:
Ok, so I need to get into reloading. Badly. Mainly for .223, but would like to branch into .308, 9mm, and .45 as I get more guns to shoot those calibers.

I read all the links at the top, looked at all the sites online and think I've picked a decent setup, but, having no experience with reloading, I can't honestly tell if I am missing something?

Goal is to reload common brass (some has military primer crimp) and once fired Wolf (the re loadable kind obviously) with 62gr SS109 bullets, RamShot TAC powder, and Small Rifle Magnum primers. I've got all the brass handled already.

Here is the equipment list I've put together. What do you think? I have all the time in the world, so I don't need a real fast setup, just something decently priced that gets me reloading for about .25 cents a round for the first 5K (this is what my list is set to right now)... Your opinions? I am a total n00b so feel free to criticize and call me an idiot if something is wrong

List:























So what do you think?  

Quoted:







Which brand of magnum primers? I suggest  Wolf SRM. Yes, I'm going with Wolf



Need a caliper to measure case and cartridge OAL. ( over all length) This is a must have. Have a caliper on the list (#15, but switching to non-digital calipers)



I don't know Lee equipment, so no comment. I have RCBS, Hornady, Lyman, Dillon.



I suggest you get a case gauge for 223, I suggest the Dillon. On the list, #12. Lee .223 Case guage



You use it for setting your sizing die. (Sizing die not set correctly, rounds won't chamber)



No mention of dies, also need a shell holder for each caliber. Lee 3 Deluxe 3 Die Set & Lee Crimper



45 ACP and 308 do use the same shell holder.



You will need reloading manuals. I suggest Hornady 7 or Sierra 5 to start. Eventually you will end up with 4 or 5.



You don't need a powder measure scale combo to start, too much $$ anyway.



Tac is a great powder for SS-109 loads. Good, for now I want to focus on SS109 rounds, my rifle likes them the best.





eta, the FA digital scale is not worth the money.



Mine works, but does the auto shut off way too soon. I rarely use it. Going to get a better scale for sure.

Quoted:


This is serious:



I got into reloading to save money, but I don't have time or patience for any of that stuff you listed.



The only way I would ever reload was with a Dillon 550B + the dillon 1200T casetrimmer - end of story. With this system you will end up with two tool-heads, so the first round through the machine you get prep'd brass, then teh second go through you get complete rounds. Simple as pie, takes about 1 hour per 200. End of story. Anything else is going to take FOREVER...especially all those cheap LEE junk tools like the trimmer and reamer and etc. Yea, they work..but SLOW as christmas. If you are that fudd at the range that has the little box of 20 handmade rounds, then LEE is your setup...otherwise you are going to need to knock it up a notch in th eaccessories department. The press may work for ya, it's not the issue in my mind - it's all the rest of the process that is going to slow you down to a crawl..especialyl if you add in swageing

Quoted:


I would suggest the RCBS Range Master 750 as a GOOD scale that will serve you well and last a long time plus RCBS  has some of the best service if they stop working or something if you don't want to go over the ~$100 price range.



I have all the tools you have mentioned and have upgraded all of them so I can tell you which ones will be the first to go.



First the zip trim, it will be faster and easier to just chuck the Lee shell holder in a drill and stick the cutter in the case rather than pulling a string every case. I now use a Hornady Cam-Lock trimmer and an RCBS Trim Mate with different misc tools to prep all my brass.



The Lee case gauge is not a drop in case gauge like mentioned above, it's just the length gauge that screws into the cutter to give you proper trim length. You need a Dillon or Wilson drop in case gauge to check headspace with, even better that that would be the Hornady or Sinclair Bump gauge kit that uses your calipers to measure headspace and how much you bump the case shoulder back when sizing.



Lee dies come with a shell holder unlike all other dies.



I would also suggest a bench mounted powder measure even if it's the cheap Lee perfect powder measure(throws Varget better than all the expensive powder measures come close to), you'll want to throw and measure every charge at some point and doing it off the press using the auto disk is going to be a pain. I like the Hornady powder measure better than the RCBS and the Redding BR3 even better since I have and use all three.



Forget the Lee chamfering tool and get the RCBS, Hornady, Wilson, Sinclair, any other chamfering/deburring tool and you'll thank me later.



The Hornady primer pocket reamer and cleaner are the best for cleaning and removing Mil. crimps, just don't know how tiring it will be by hand, I use them in my Trim Mate.

Quoted:
To "piggy-back," on this 223 reloading thread, Here is two questions that I have.
I have multiple 5.56 and 223 chambered weapons, Ruger bolt varmint. Mini-14's, Stevens 200 Bolt (very accurate and a joy to carry once I worked on trigger) DPMS Predator, Colt HBAR and Interarms Mini-Mauser. So obviously there are very likely going to be a lot of chamber dimension variances between them, I also want to reload for them and the die set I have is an older RCBS 223 FL set, I really don't want to try and keep all the fired brass separated. should I get a "small base die set?" Do you think that I should at least keep the fired brass segregated as far as auto vs Bolt gun? and finally all the small rifle primers that I could find was CCI marked for use in 5.56 automatic rifles (I think its a thicker or tougher primer to help reduce the likelihood of slam fires?" Needless to say, There are different rates of twist to consider as to bullet weights. What do you guys think I should do?

Quoted:


Get a Hornady/Stoney Point headspace tool.  Measure fired cases from each firearm, then set the sizer die to yield about 0.002 inches of headspace on the shortest case.  If that means more than 0.008 inches in the longest chamber, then I would segregate the brass into two lots, one for the longest chambers and one for the shortest chambers.  Not ideal, but I doubt you'll have to do that, either.

You do not need a small base sizer; it won't accomplish what you're after.