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Posted: 10/24/2009 9:59:33 PM EDT
| I'm days away from pulling the trigger on a Dillon 650 but I'm starting to think that I should just splurge and get the 1050. The only thing I don't like is the 1050 only has a 1 year warranty and for the price of 3 DP 650s you would think the machine would also have the No BS warranty. So talk me in or out of getting this machine. |
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Quoted:
What are you going to be reloading on it? And how much volume? I have a 650 for 9mm, and I can easily crank out 600-800 rounds an hour on it. I can't see needing a 1050 unless you shoot a TON of a certain caliber. I figure that after I buy a giraud trimmer and if I sell off my Super Swage for $80 or so that the 1050 will only cost me about $450 or so more than the 650 w/ case feeder and dies. Processing brass takes forever and w/ the super swage I'm just handling the brass too much so I figure that with the built in swager on the 650 the machine will save me quite a bit of time. ETA: I'll primarily be reloading .223/5.56 but if NY determines I'm worth to own a pistol in the next few months I'll be shooting quite a bit of 9mm also. |
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Ok, for 223, a 1050 makes a certain amount of sense if you're going to be loading a shitload of 223.
Keep in mind that changing calibers on a 1050 is a lot more of a pain then it is on a 650. In fact, thats part of the reason I kept my 550 when I bought the 650. The 550 is cake for switching calibers, so I use it for my less heavily fired calibers like 38spl, 30-30, etc. |
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I like being able to feel what the swager is doing when I swage with the Dillon swager. You lose that with the 1050. If you run the same brand cases through the 1050 press you're good, but mixed cases will not run so smooth with the variations in web thickness. I feel more comfortable doing it separately myself and usually take the swager off the 1050 press.....makes it feel smoother while operating without it. I separate the crimped stuff out. I also have a Giraud for trimming .223 Rem and .308 Win. cases. I get the brass swaged, sized, and trimmed before it goes through the press to get loaded. Why get rid of your Giraud??
I sold off my two Dillon 650 presses and kept a 1050. It is more hassle as I used to keep the 650s set up for each primer size and that made converting calibers a little quicker than otherwise. The 1050 gets you a little better economy of motion in the priming of the cases. All operations of the reloading are going on simulaneously when you crank the press handle down, whereas on the other Dillon presses the priming takes place after you raise the operator handle and then have to press the handle forward. That little bit of effort adds up in both muscle action and time. The toolheads are really spendy. That is probably the worse thing as far as I'm concerned. I load 9mm, 38 Spl., and 45 ACP on my lone 1050. Everything else is done on a 550B press I also have. |
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I would get the Super 1050 hands down.
As said already Quoted: All operations of the reloading are going on simulaneously when you crank the press handle down, whereas on the other Dillon presses the priming takes place after you raise the operator handle and then have to press the handle forward. That little bit of effort adds up in both muscle action and time. The toolheads are really spendy. That is probably the worse thing as far as I'm concerned.
Yes there is more time spent doing caliber conversions on the 1050 vs. the 650, but in the end the 1050 is still a much much better machine. As stated it does everything on one end of the stroke. This alone should compel you to get it. Much less in the area of operator error. Less to no worry if the primer got seated enough. The priming system is far better that the one on the 650 (Which I consider dangerous) You get more stations, which may not seem like much right now, but it can and will be helpful in the future. You should have no fears about the warrenty on the 1050. I did at first and they were unfounded. The machine is built very stout! There are very few parts that I would consider replacement/expendable parts that need replacement very often. For the work you would be doing, you could buy the spare parts kit once a year for $40 and replace all the springs included in the kit and be fine. In fact if you needed to replace them in that time frame I would be surprised. In fact one of my 1050's is a little over a year and a half old and has over 200,000 cycles on it and the only parts I have replaced on it are the main return spring, the priming actuator springs, and the little rubber grommet on the primer slide. (which is a peice of automotive rubber vacumm line I got for .20$ a foot.) I will tell you that should you get one, go to the hardware store and buy a couple of 5\8" USS Grade 8 flat washers. The tool head is held on by a 5/8" bolt with one washer. The washer is there to put pressure on the toolhead to keep it from rotating. The toolheads on the last 2 1050"s I got started to swivel on the shaft. The washer cupped to much causing this to happen. I flipped the washer over and added 2 more to keep this from happening. I am not sure if I am the only one this has happend to or not. I should add that I do have a 650. I am transferring all of my calibers over to the 1050's, except for the rifle calibers that I don't use much of. In the end it may cost more for the machine, but you are getting a far better machine for your money. |
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