Quoted:
I use mine mostly for depriming, but it works fine for loading, too, if a good lube is used.  Imperial on cases the size of the Roberts case will make the press operation as easy as is possible, and I'm of the opinion that pistol brass should be lubed before sizing with this press, too.  Otherwise, the operating force is so high you'll likely abandon it for reloading.  Even a 9mm Luger case in a carbide die is a pain to size without lube, and a .30 Carbine case is close enough to impossible (not really, but sizing is so difficult it's absolutely no fun).

The only trick is to keep charged cases pointing up so the powder doesn't get dumped while getting ready to seat a bullet.

Quoted:
Is the Lee Lube that came with the kit any good?  Why do you use a non-petroleum based lube on the press linkage?

Quoted:
I've never used one, but plan on buying one in the near future. I like the fact that I can take it anywhere and deprime brass. Sit and watch TV, sit outside, wherever. No bench, clamping, or mounting.

I'll still use my bench mounted press for resizing. I think that would become too tedious with a hand press.

Story time:

I started with a used single station press. After years of experience, with the single station I graduated to a Dillon progressive press. Somewhere along the way, I bought a LEE hand press. I thought, I could get some simple re-loading in, during breaks at work.

So, having owned and used one (LEE hand press) with .308 Win........well, let's just say it wasn't RIGHT for ME. So, I sold it off.

If it's your FIRST PRESS..........I'd stay away from it. That's just, MY OPINION.

It's just so much faster and easier to use a regular single station bench mounted press. It can be mounted on a scrap 2" x 8" then C clamped to a bench or table. And, the cost of a single station isn't that much, over the hand press.

Then.........there was this guy with "problems" with his hand press. It came down to the FACT that he wasn't re-sizing his brass "all the way." Yes, it takes some MUSCLE POWER to get those handles together all the way, to F/L re-size brass in the larger calibers.

I suspect that, if he had used a regular single station bench mounted press, he would have benefited by the extra leverage.

And, not to mention, the balancing act while bullet seating can be difficult with the hand press.

May I further suggest: Get a good manual (or several) and a mentor.

As always: YMWV.

Assuming that you purchased a LEE hand press kit.  

Basically (For non-primer crimped, rifle brass):

1) Inspect and clean the cases- a liquid bath in hot water and dish soap, will get them clean.  Though, not shiny.

IF you want, clean with some shine……Birchwood Casey Case Cleaning Solution is a fast and cheap way. Mix with water (follow the directions on the package) soak the brass, drain and dry. Save the solution as it can be re-used.

2) Set up your hand press with the shell holder and de-capper/FL re-sizer die.

3) Lube the cases. LEE lube can be applied with fingers.

4) Then, de-cap/re-size the brass.

5) Purchase a cheap Wilson style case gauge. Gauge the case(s) to ensure that the proper F/L re-size has been achieved. The headstamped end of the brass needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge to pass.  IF the brass passes, it's on to the next step. IF not, adjust your die setting.

BTW, the other end of the gauge, also checks IF you need to trim the brass.

6) Trim the brass IF needed. The cheapest way, is with the LEE case trimmer. You'll need to purchase the cutter & lock stub.  And the case length gauge with special shell holder. Once the trimming is done, use a chamfer tool (another new purchase item) to "knock off the edge" on the newly cut case necks.

7) Clean off the lube. A solvent dampened rag or another soak in the case cleaner. Make sure the cases are dry before proceeding to the next step.

8) Re-prime the cases. Use the tools that you got with the LEE hand press kit.

Or purchase the LEE auto prime hand tool. You'll also need the special LEE shell holder made especially for the LEE auto prime.

9) Using the supplied LEE dipper w/load data sheet, you can measure out the recommended powder charge and drop the powder into the primed case.

*Although the powder dipper method (included in your kit) is usable. For safety and faster production, most folks will purchase a hopper style measure and scale (not included in the kit). Remember to make “spot checks” on your powder throws.

10) Next, screw in the bullet seating die into your press. Place a bullet on top of the opening of the case neck. Careful, don’t spill the powder.  Then, run the case w/bullet into the bullet seating die. You're done.
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NOTE: There are many ways to skin a cat.  I tried to write this, keeping in mind a CHEAP WAY to do things.  

To adjust dies correctly.......see the link…….

http://www.chuckhawks.com/adjust_reloading_dies.htm