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Posted: 2/19/2009 10:54:09 AM EDT
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I just started Turning necks with a Hornady tool and I wonder what I should be looking for as far what is too thin a neck. I've turned 30-06's .300 Win. Mag. and 30/30 Win. with the results as follows. 30-06's are FL sized, I trim to a thickness of .019, .300 Win. Mag. that I use in one rifle only and I neck size with a LEE neck sizer are .016 and 30/30 Win. I cut to .013. I also stop cutting at .001-.002 from the shoulder. I quickly see why some rounds don't perform as I expect them to do whether they don't hit my POA or they deviate radically from what another carefully loaded cartridge might over my chronograph. I should note that I'm not a bench rest shooter or a competitive shooter of any sort and all I shoot is common hunting rifles but I expect the best out of my rifles every time I pull the trigger. But with some cartridges that either have a very thick neck compared to the others or they are thick on just one side, thick at the base of the neck or at the mouth or one side of the mouth, there's a lot of variation in neck thick thickness overall to put it simply. Its just no wonder why accuracy suffers with many rifles that has nothing to do with the shooter or the set up of the rifle.
If anyone else has some input I'd appreciate it. Mostly I wonder what is considered a minimum thickness on necks and how soon neck turning needs to be repeated if at all. I can't wait till this weather breaks so I can retest some ammo at the range. By the way I already debur the flash holes and uniform the primer pockets as well as sorting cartridges by weight as well as Mfg. |
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I also turn necks. Just started.
For my rifles that are cut to spec. I run the lot through a master guage to determin the absolute minimum neck thickness of the lot. As long as I'm not taking off a ton of thickness, I usualy turn all of them to this thickness. Its best to have a mandrel to which you can size the necks before turning them for a tight, precise fit. I've been lead to believe there isnt much accuracy to gain from doing this, espetialy if you already load with no freebore, but it gives me more confidence in my equipment. As far as turning into the shoulder....if you dont do it, you NEED some means of remoring the doughnut that WILL form at the bottom of the neck, at the juncture between where you stopped turning, and the shoulder. IE; a mandrel with a cutter head on it. |
| So Waldo, what kind of tool has a mandrel that has a cutter head on it? My Hornady has a smooth mandrel that I adjust in and out depending on shoulder length, and the cutter which cuts the outside of the neck is adjusted into the mandrel to cut the neck. Thanks! |
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Quoted:
http://www.sinclairintl.com/images/gold/full/09-500.jpg Here is a setup from Sinclair ( www.sinclairintl.com ) Get their catalog. Lots of great tools. callgood that sinclair tool you show is that a cutter on the end of the mandrel? What does that tool retail for? I've already got about $100.00 invested in a Hornady with several mandrels. 
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