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Posted: 1/17/2009 11:12:38 AM EDT
| How tight is everyone making their primer pockets using the super swager? I've got mine set right now so that it does feel tight using a RCBS hand primer but it is also going in smoothly. |
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How tight is everyone making their primer pockets using the super swager? I've got mine set right now so that it does feel tight using a RCBS hand primer but it is also going in smoothly. Sir, you're doing just fine. I adjust mine no further that the point at which I can seat a primer with my Sinclair hand priming tool. More than that serves no purpose in my humble opinion. 7zero1 out. |
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I saw your other thread, where you said that your Dillon Swage was making/producing small slivers of metal............
Thank You. Remember, all of the Dillon Swage folks who say that swaging doesn't REMOVE metal? I've noticed that........while using an RCBS swage and my friend with a Dillon Swage says it happens to him too. ______________________________________ ______________________________________ Anyway, I guess the "tightness of the processed pocket" will depend on how much (how deeply) the spud (assuming the actual size is correct) enters the primer pocket and swages back the metal. The spud is the "control factor" and I don't KNOW FOR SURE if it's made with a slight taper. But, getting the pocket "just right " so it'll accept a primer is the main point. I guess the spud could be polished or modified to achieve a, "tighter fit." But, IMHO......the tightness you feel during primer seating is at most just a "subjective" test for your mind (or Not). Then, not to mention that some folks will use a hand primer system vs. a press mounted system to re-prime. Thus, some will say they "feel it." In the end.......I don't own a Dillon. I use a hand reamer. So, as to what I had to say above........maybe you should just "forgetaboutit." Aloha, Mark |
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It's usually just the crimp metal. And, IMHO.......there is NO problem with it.
It's just a little thing, that I like to point it out because, there are some (Dillon Kool Aide Drinkers) that will INSTST that a swage doesn't remove metal.........that it only reshapes the pocket. Those slivers are PROOF that metal is being removed. Course, in the end it could just be a degree thing. And, I doubt that it matters sooooo much. Except..........to "insinuate" that a reamer is bad. Because, a reamer removes metal. Aloha, Mark |
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I have a question about this Dillon tool. How far do you pull the lever (i.e 90 or 180 degrees)? Is parallel to the benchtop (90 degrees) OK? I mounted mine about 3/4" away from the edge of my bench and can't make a full 180 degree stroke (I get maybe 130 degrees). With that amount I think the cam has done all that it can, so I don't think I'm loosing any of the tool's effectiveness.
Just wandering; thanks. |
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Quoted:
Compared to "Mr. Ingenuity" who was chucking a chamfer tool in his drill press and putting a bevel on the opening about halfway down into the pocket, the Dillon swage seems to almost add metal. Remember, all of the Dillon Swage folks who say that swaging doesn't REMOVE metal? I've noticed that........while using an RCBS swage and my friend with a Dillon Swage says it happens to him too. The swage doesn't intentionally remove metal, but any metal work that involves shoving a mandrel into an opening that may not be perfectly centered could shave a bit now and then. |
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I have a question about this Dillon tool. How far do you pull the lever (i.e 90 or 180 degrees)? Is parallel to the benchtop (90 degrees) OK? I mounted mine about 3/4" away from the edge of my bench and can't make a full 180 degree stroke (I get maybe 130 degrees). With that amount I think the cam has done all that it can, so I don't think I'm loosing any of the tool's effectiveness.
Just wandering; thanks. I've got mine set far enough from the bench edge so I can get the full range from the piston. That way, I'm using all of the tool and I know I'm doing it the same way every time. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Compared to "Mr. Ingenuity" who was chucking a chamfer tool in his drill press and putting a bevel on the opening about halfway down into the pocket, the Dillon swage seems to almost add metal. Remember, all of the Dillon Swage folks who say that swaging doesn't REMOVE metal? I've noticed that........while using an RCBS swage and my friend with a Dillon Swage says it happens to him too. Yup.........gotta agree with you there. One needs to.........."Pick the right tool for the job." The swage doesn't intentionally remove metal, but any metal work that involves shoving a mandrel into an opening that may not be perfectly centered could shave a bit now and then.
Not to mention, the quality of the brass itself or the style of crimp. Aloha, Mark |
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Quoted:
I have a question about this Dillon tool. How far do you pull the lever (i.e 90 or 180 degrees)? Is parallel to the benchtop (90 degrees) OK? I mounted mine about 3/4" away from the edge of my bench and can't make a full 180 degree stroke (I get maybe 130 degrees). With that amount I think the cam has done all that it can, so I don't think I'm loosing any of the tool's effectiveness. Just wandering; thanks. Is the swage entering the pocket and doing it's job? I set mine up for total freedom of movement as far as the handle goes. You may be able to limit swing by setting the adjustment to be more aggresive. I am really not sure. The important part is do your primers enter and seat OK without excessive force? That's the bottom line. The tool creates enough force that it's possible to damage the brass in the critical (to your safety) head are if used improperly. |
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