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Posted: 12/2/2008 12:18:16 PM EDT
| I have some speer 223 that I've resized and decrimped. They are all once fired and all measure in the 1.74-75 range. Should I still chamfer and deburr the case or do you only need to when you trim the brass? Thanks in advance... |
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Personally, I only ream if I trim. Reason being the resizing die expands the case mouth anyway so I don't see the point.
I haven't had "copper" shavings yet. Maybe how you adjust you flare in your die. I use just enough flare to allow the bullet to enter the case and no more. (Cause I'm CHEAP and don't want to wear out my brass.) Just my opinion. |
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Quoted:
You have a .223 die that flares your rifle case mouth? What brand is it?
Personally, I only ream if I trim. Reason being the resizing die expands the case mouth anyway so I don't see the point. I haven't had "copper" shavings yet. Maybe how you adjust you flare in your die. I use just enough flare to allow the bullet to enter the case and no more. (Cause I'm CHEAP and don't want to wear out my brass.) Just my opinion. |
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Quoted:
Quoted:
You have a .223 die that flares your rifle case mouth? What brand is it?Personally, I only ream if I trim. Reason being the resizing die expands the case mouth anyway so I don't see the point. I haven't had "copper" shavings yet. Maybe how you adjust you flare in your die. I use just enough flare to allow the bullet to enter the case and no more. (Cause I'm CHEAP and don't want to wear out my brass.) Just my opinion. There are special dies for cast bullets. Lyman M dies. Other brands have universal belling dies. I see many over-deburr/chamfer cases here and at the range, most look like a knife edge. This reduces case life. I started loading .22 Hornet many years ago, this case has a very thin neck and doing that WILL shorten case life so I have learned to only remove enough material to break the edge. Motorizing any of the milling-type tools will easily over-chamfer. And the all in one tools are guilty too. And hand turning can also leave chatter marks. |
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I use a hand deburring/chamfering tool by L.E. Wilson and put pretty much no pressure on it. It's just enough to break the sharp edge.
Midway USA has them. They are cheap, like $15 and should last forever on brass. I have no idea why people would use motorized deburring tools for shell casings. Brass is soft and you don't need to take a lot of material off. Are they even easier? Quicker? |
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Quoted:
I use a hand deburring/chamfering tool by L.E. Wilson and put pretty much no pressure on it. It's just enough to break the sharp edge. Midway USA has them. They are cheap, like $15 and should last forever on brass. I have no idea why people would use motorized deburring tools for shell casings. Brass is soft and you don't need to take a lot of material off. Are they even easier? Quicker? Quicker and saves your hands when processing hundreds or thousands of cases. |
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