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12/2/2008 12:18:16 PM EDT
I have some speer 223 that I've resized and decrimped.  They are all once fired and all measure in the 1.74-75 range.  Should I still chamfer and deburr the case or do you only need to when you trim the brass?  Thanks in advance...
12/2/2008 1:06:29 PM EDT
[#1]
I would, it makes seating the bullet much smoother. You dont have to but you may shave some copper when seating
12/2/2008 2:50:23 PM EDT
[#2]
I only do after a trim
12/2/2008 3:09:43 PM EDT
[#3]
A kiss on the inside of the case mouth won't hurt.


Wait.  Does that sound right?
12/2/2008 3:42:51 PM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
A kiss on the inside of the case mouth won't hurt.


Wait.  Does that sound right?


MMMM soft core brass porn, that's hot



A small chamfer would be nice especially if your not using boat tails, I only do it after trimming myself because 99% of my bullets have some sort of chamfer or taper to help lead(leeed) the bullet.
12/2/2008 3:56:39 PM EDT
[#5]
deburring is done to remove burrs, but it helps with seating flat based bullets.  If you have no burrs and loading boat tails, deburring which is now chamfering, doesn't do any harm.
12/2/2008 5:30:49 PM EDT
[#6]
I originally bought a VLD chamfering tool to seat Berger Bullets, but I now only use it to seat flat base bullets in larger calibers...which works like a charm, BTW.
12/2/2008 5:35:56 PM EDT
[#7]
You shouldn't have too. Load a couple and see if you have any problems getting the bullets started. Your cases
are smooth if they have been fired.
12/2/2008 6:55:45 PM EDT
[#8]
Deburring is the act of removing burrs so if you have burrs, I would remove them.  It's always easier to jam something into a chamfered hole so even if there aren't any burrs a little chamfer wouldn't hurt.
12/2/2008 7:08:34 PM EDT
[#9]
It also helps longer bullets (like the 70+gr .223 bullets) sit straight in the case while you run the press ram up for seating.  
12/2/2008 8:59:05 PM EDT
[#10]
I always debur case mouths even if I didn't trim them.
12/3/2008 6:46:28 AM EDT
[#11]
Personally, I only ream if I trim. Reason being the resizing die expands the case mouth anyway so I don't see the point.            

I haven't had "copper" shavings yet. Maybe how you adjust you flare in your die. I use
just enough flare to allow the bullet to enter the case and no more.

(Cause I'm CHEAP and don't want to wear out my brass.)

Just my opinion.
12/3/2008 7:20:55 AM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
Personally, I only ream if I trim. Reason being the resizing die expands the case mouth anyway so I don't see the point.            

I haven't had "copper" shavings yet. Maybe how you adjust you flare in your die. I use
just enough flare to allow the bullet to enter the case and no more.

(Cause I'm CHEAP and don't want to wear out my brass.)

Just my opinion.
You have a .223 die that flares your rifle case mouth?  What brand is it?
12/3/2008 7:43:04 AM EDT
[#13]
Quoted:
Quoted:
Personally, I only ream if I trim. Reason being the resizing die expands the case mouth anyway so I don't see the point.            

I haven't had "copper" shavings yet. Maybe how you adjust you flare in your die. I use
just enough flare to allow the bullet to enter the case and no more.

(Cause I'm CHEAP and don't want to wear out my brass.)

Just my opinion.
You have a .223 die that flares your rifle case mouth?  What brand is it?


There are special dies for cast bullets.  Lyman M dies.  Other brands have universal belling dies.

I see many over-deburr/chamfer cases here and at the range, most look like a knife edge.  This reduces case life.

I started loading .22 Hornet many years ago, this case has a very thin neck and doing that WILL shorten case life so I have learned to only remove enough material to break the edge.  Motorizing any of the milling-type tools will easily over-chamfer.  And the all in one tools are guilty too.  And hand turning can also leave chatter marks.

12/3/2008 10:06:13 AM EDT
[#14]
I use a hand deburring/chamfering tool by L.E. Wilson and put pretty much no pressure on it.  It's just enough to break the sharp edge.

Midway USA has them.  They are cheap, like $15 and should last forever on brass.

I have no idea why people would use motorized deburring tools for shell casings.  Brass is soft and you don't need to take a lot of material off.  Are they even easier? Quicker?
12/3/2008 12:55:27 PM EDT
[#15]
Quoted:
I use a hand deburring/chamfering tool by L.E. Wilson and put pretty much no pressure on it.  It's just enough to break the sharp edge.

Midway USA has them.  They are cheap, like $15 and should last forever on brass.

I have no idea why people would use motorized deburring tools for shell casings.  Brass is soft and you don't need to take a lot of material off.  Are they even easier? Quicker?


Quicker and saves your hands when processing hundreds or thousands of cases.
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