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Posted: 11/15/2008 6:12:44 AM EDT
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I have been interested in reloading since the '70s but have never had the means to get into the hobby. My situation has changed and I am seriously considering committing the funds and diving in. Just ball park figures but it looks like 1K ought to get me a good start on a decent progressive setup and components for .223, 9mm, and .45 ACP. Does that sound about right to you guys?
Another thing. I noticed that all reloaders either progressive or single stage have a long lever to cycle the mechanism. Could I adapt an air actuated, foot activated devise to save some time and arm strain? Looks pretty simple to mount a pneumatic cylinder to the mechanism and plumb it to my air compressor. Anyone ever try this? I'm a tinkering kind of guy and can't leave anything alone if it looks like I can make it save time or effort. It's my curse. 
Thanks for looking in. |
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$1000 will get you a good start with top notch equipment. Don't forget about components. You can get started for far less, too.
The problem with pneumatically or hydraulically operated loaders is that you can't feel resistance when something isn't going right. Plus, handling the components to place them in the shell holders is the factor that determines speed. Some machines have case feeders or bullet feeders to help speed things along. The weak link in every progressive press is the primer feed and priming mechanism and on all the progressives I have, that will also control the speed. The thing to do is get a single stage press, or a Dillon 550 that you'll operate in single stage mode to start, and learn the basics first. Worrying about improving a press should come way down steam after you understand the process. That will be a plate full for a while. |
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Welcome one of many posts.
Like everything else, there are several "steps" in reloading equipment. Expect to spend about $1k for first class progressive equipment for 9mm, 45 ACP, and 223. The Forum Resources have several lists of equipment you will need. Bare bones, progressive, advanced. A good book to pick up for the beginning reloader is ABC's of Reloading, step by step instructions with pics, and sections explaining powder, bullet, and primer selection. The process is not that hard. If you can read and follow instructions, you will be safe. There will be questions you will have, we will help. I have seen pics of reloading equipment that was motorized, be aware it will void the warranty. So it can be done if you desire. ETA, Posted before adding link, been having trouble loosing my post. Link to Brian Enos/Dillon store. A first class site that has lots of info on Dillon presses. |
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Quoted:
I have been interested in reloading since the '70s but have never had the means to get into the hobby. My situation has changed and I am seriously considering committing the funds and diving in. Just ball park figures but it looks like 1K ought to get me a good start on a decent progressive setup and components for .223, 9mm, and .45 ACP. Does that sound about right to you guys? Another thing. I noticed that all reloaders either progressive or single stage have a long lever to cycle the mechanism. Could I adapt an air actuated, foot activated devise to save some time and arm strain? Looks pretty simple to mount a pneumatic cylinder to the mechanism and plumb it to my air compressor. Anyone ever try this? I'm a tinkering kind of guy and can't leave anything alone if it looks like I can make it save time or effort. It's my curse.
Thanks for looking in. Sounds kinda cool. I've never heard of anybody setting up a home press using pneumatic or electro-mechanical assistance. You'll need a regulator and two way air or a spring return. If you set up a power assisted press post pics. |
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Thanks for the info guys! I never even considered the feedback from the lever as an indicator of proper function. Now I have learned something about reloading already! AeroE. you da man!
Use a progressive as a single stage? Great idea to help me learn the proper way to use a new loader. One step at a time. 
Dang, you guys are smart! |
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One other thing about air actuated mechanisms...they store more energy in the compressed air. This makes ram speed unpredictable. And you wouldn't want to use your hands to place bullets on top of cases with that, otherwise MAJOR PINCH!
Dillon's warranty is voided if such mods are done. Also, priming requires opposite movement in both Lee and Dillon and the Safety Prime on some Lee's requires another hand to push the lever into the ram. It is best to keep lever-actuated loading manual powered. Besides, it is just exercise! The handle on the Dillons can be swapped out to a roller, this reduces blisters when you are cranking out 500 rounds per hour for 6 hours. That is nearly $100 in primers....far more in bullets. I get a sore palm on my Lee 1kP after about 600 rounds, the most I have done in one stretch. |
| for a grand you can really git in deep. You can get in and run for $500. By the way, It's a sickness. You will spend tons of time and dough on this hobby. I started to reload for the cost. It became a hobby in itself. I considered using a pneumatic cylendar on my press, but you really have to FEEL what you are doing. You will feel when everything sets right. If you are running on automatic, you can really mess up quick. |
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Where are you guys getting your brass? I work on a military installation and might be able to score me some brass. I have been told that brass from a SAW is not acceptable for reloading but brass from an M16 should be OK. Does all military brass have a crimped primer pocket of has that requirement been waved?
How could I tell if the brass was ejected from a SAW versus a M16? And how about blank brass? Blank brass is obvious due to the puckered end. Can the pucker be trimmed off and the rest still be used? |
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The blank brass is no good for reloading, it has thin gages.
All of the 5.56 you find on base will have crimped primers. The crimps can be swaged or cut out; I think swaging is best, I've had bad luck with a cutter type. The SAW brass gets battered pretty hard, but I think it can be sized for re-use okay. The worst that can happen is that the case head is too big and the case can't be sized to fit a good chamber. Banana shaped cases should straighten out okay. If necessary, crooked cases can be sized once, then turned 90 degrees and sized again to square the body around the head. |
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I am getting my brass off the ground at the range.
Sometimes get some at the funshow. If you get free brass from work, size it. Bad brass won't size all the way down. Plenty of different tools out there to measure the sized brass with. Removing the crimp from brass is not so bad with the right tools. Dillon Super Swage |
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