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Posted: 8/9/2008 12:07:17 PM EDT
Hey there reloading people, i was wondering if any of you have like a piece of counter top that you have mounted your reloading press on? I have a piece that i could mount it on but not sure about the stability, i really dont have room to mount it at the time being and probably will not for a while longer, so is this a safe method and do any of you do this, if so,...........pics pics pics!!!! Thanks for any replies
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Frankford Arsenal makes a little stand. I made a reloading "board" out of MDF that I c-clamped to various other things. I had an old microwave that I would clamp it too. I grabbed an old guard from a table saw that I used to reinforce it. I have since had a workbench, which my brother built, that added to the microwave table. So I still have the cabinets. Worked out pretty nice. An old computer desk, like the ones from Target and Wally-World, will do with some reinforcement. |
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Frankford Arsenal makes a little stand. I made a reloading "board" out of MDF that I c-clamped to various other things. I had an old microwave that I would clamp it too. I grabbed an old guard from a table saw that I used to reinforce it. I have since had a workbench, which my brother built, that added to the microwave table. So I still have the cabinets. Worked out pretty nice. An old computer desk, like the ones from Target and Wally-World, will do with some reinforcement. My Pro 1000 didn't need much help when I was doing straight walled cases. But when re-sizing bottle neck cartridges, even .223, you need a stronger, more stable table. |
| wow, thanks a lot guys, these are some really good suggestions. I will be reloading 223 and 9mm, so i might need something sturdy, that thing on ebay looks very tempting, i wonder how it will hold up, for 35 dollars, i will probably give it a shot. Any other suggestions? |
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Just cut 2 squares of 3/4in plywood and stack them atop each other. Drill holes for bolting the press to. clamp to kitchen table with "c" clamps and appropriate protection for the table top. breaks down easily and store out of sight. Strong enough to size 8mm Mauser. Ancient American apartment dweller's secret... ETA-- plywood squares are about 12-16 inches..try to find a pic of my old setup...  ETA pic |
I simply bolted my press to a short piece of 2X8 and C-clamped it to a table as needed.
If your range has shooting tables, that’ll work there. If not, a Stanley Workmate might be the way to go – just clamp it in one. Keep in mind that you probably won’t be resizing cases at the range, just charging already sized and primed cases with powder, then seating bullets. If so, then you won’t need a super rugged setup. |
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| I've done the bit with bolting the press to a board to give it a larger 'foot print' for stability, and then clamping said board to the bench top... in fact thats how my Forster Co-Ax is mounted downstairs right now. Some ranges (especially those that have a strong benchrest contingent) may have a loading area adjacent to the firing line. Ours has a narrow bench along the back wall, basically two 2x12s for the top and a 2x6 shelf protruding about 2' above that - perfect height for clamping a powder measure to. Another method you might consider is to make a top out of one or two thicknesses of 3/4 ply or MDF, and screw a 2x4 cleat to the middle. Bolt your presses to the top, and clamp the top (via the cleat) in one of the heavier duty Workmate folding benches. You may have to stand on the little footstep/shelf when F/L sizing, but thats why they put it there ;) |
I have and use the Amish made one, purchased from Todd Kindler at The Woodchuck Den. 
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You guys are amazing! I like all the suggestions, but have a questions. 1. I see that a lot of people just use a 2x4 or 2x8 and bolt them down and c clamp em to a table, but dont the bolts that mount the press to the wood make the 2x4 or 2x8 uneven due to the bolts sticking out from under? Any chance i can get a pic of the bottom please?  once again , thanks everyone |
"Countersinking" is your friend. Drill a hole in the 2x4 that's just over the diameter of the mounting bolts you want to use, then flip the 2x4 over and use a wood boring bit that's bigger than a washer you'll use to put between the 2x4 and bolt head, drill about 2 x the height of the bolt head. When you slip the bolt from the bottom, you'll be able to slip a washer on the bolt, and the bolt head will be lower than flush on the bottom ETA: use a wood boring bit that's just bigger than a socket that fits the bolt head vs just a bit bigger than the washer, althought it may end up being the same size  |
That's a beautiful setup bk40. |
AssaultRilfer, thank you for that diagram, i see now how its done, lol, im not too mechanically inclined, but this was a really helpful, my press just came in, gotta go buy a 2x8 now. Thanks all...........for helping me keep it portable. 
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No. Tom Piechota (Ohio) made the BR press in that pic. It was about 1997 I got it along with a Stolle Panda PPC he built for me. Its top notch quality as I'm sure the Sinclair is. |
Based on a few of the ideas you guys posted here, I began building my preliminary experimental set-up from an old scaffolding board that was in the local scaffolding shop's trash. It's not done in this picture, but I'll add a finished "junk-board bench" picture in a few days. Thanks for the ideas, gents. |
I like the fire extinguisher 
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That would be there for my cooking...  ... Normally the smoke detector goes off before food is totally ruined - I've got it mounted on the ceiling of my kitchen. |
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