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6/27/2008 6:16:56 PM EDT
Loaded 100 rounds with Hornady 55 gr to 2.20 COL and 100 with Widener Mil-Spec MB2262L 62 gr bullets to 2.248 COL.  Both stick in the chamber unfired and I can't figure out why.  Tried to cycle both a couple time but could get them to extract.  Had to lighly tap the charging handle with a 2 3/4 oz rubber hammer to extract.  3 or 4 light to medium taps did the job.  My once fired Wincherster brass prep was tumbled, sized/decapped (RCBS Lub, Hornady die), trimmed to 1.750, deburred, champered, then tumbled again.  Another load (69 Sierra Match, 2.250 col) prepared the same way extracts perfectly.  I tried cleaning the gun's chamber, no change.  Wiped the rounds with a damp, slightly soapy towel, then a clean damp towel, dried, then lightly lubbed with a non-penatrating oil, that reduced the effort required to extract, but I still have to tap the charging handle some.  No unusual marks or scratches on the case or bullets, I even painted a couple rounds with a black Marks-A-Lot and cycled them.  Nothing unusual noted.
Folks, I'm new to ARs and reloading and out of ideas.  Don't know what I did wrong or how to proceed.  Loathed to think I have to disassamble 200 rounds with a kinetic puller then decapping live primers.  Damn.  I'm thinking about slowly fireing the rounds.  Sorry about the lenght, but wanted you to have all relavent data.  I'd appreciate some advice.    
6/27/2008 6:25:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Case headspace issue perhaps? Does the brass gauge satisfactorily?
6/27/2008 7:00:27 PM EDT
[#2]

 Note: This is step #6 for me.....

6) I use a single station press (RCBS Rock Chucker). You could use a progressive Dillon IF you wanted to. It's a personal choice. But, with whatever press you choose, consider shell plate/shell holder and/or press "flex.”  I use a regular FL size/de-capper die, NOT the small base dies. To begin, FL size and de-cap, 1 or 2 cases for a test. Gauge the re-sized case(s), to confirm that the "correct size" has been achieved.  I use a Forster Products case gauge (the Wilson gauge is also a popular choice).  Insert a case into the die.  The headstamped end of the case, needs to be at or between the high and low cuts on the gauge, to pass. This checks the headspace.  While the other end, is used to check if the case will need to be trimmed (a job for later on).   IF, it’s not the “correct size,” your die setting will need adjustment. Lower the ram and simply screw the die in or out a little. Don’t forget about the lock nut. Then, re-size another couple of test cases and check your work again. Repeat the test and adjustments, as needed.  When you're satisfied that your test cases are properly re-sized, do the entire lot.

For those who don't know about it.........IMHO…………"the secret" to re-loading a bottle neck cartridge for a gas gun is.......a case gauge.  There are many different brands and ways to gauge your re-loads.  

Examples……..

www.sinclairintl.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=REMTHT&type=store  



Aloha, Mark
6/27/2008 7:47:21 PM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:
Loaded 100 rounds with Hornady 55 gr to 2.20 COL and 100 with Widener Mil-Spec MB2262L 62 gr bullets to 2.248 COL.  

Both stick in the chamber unfired and I can't figure out why.  

Tried to cycle both a couple time but could get them to extract.  

Had to lightly tap the charging handle with a 2 3/4 oz rubber hammer to extract.  

3 or 4 light to medium taps did the job.  

My once fired Winchester brass prep was tumbled, sized/decapped (RCBS Lube, Hornady die), trimmed to 1.750, deburred, champered, then tumbled again.  

Another load (69 Sierra Match, 2.250 col) prepared the same way extracts perfectly.  I tried cleaning the gun's chamber, no change.

You need a case gauge to set your sizing die.

After sizing a case, wipe lube off, and try to chamber.

This will determine if sizing is the problem, or maybe the bullet is out of round, or not seated correctly.

Did you crimp bullet? Too much crimp can distort case.



Wiped the rounds with a damp, slightly soapy towel, then a clean damp towel, dried, then lightly lubbed with a non-penetrating oil,

Never lube loaded rounds. Case must grip chamber wall upon firing for normal functioning.  


that reduced the effort required to extract, but I still have to tap the charging handle some.  

No unusual marks or scratches on the case or bullets, I even painted a couple rounds with a black Marks-A-Lot and cycled them.  Nothing unusual noted.

Folks, I'm new to AR's and reloading and out of ideas.  

Don't know what I did wrong or how to proceed.  

Loathed to think I have to disassemble 200 rounds with a kinetic puller then decapping live primers.  

Damn.  I'm thinking about slowly firing the rounds.  

Sorry about the length, but wanted you to have all relevant data.  I'd appreciate some advice.    


I double spaced your post, makes it much easier to read.

Go to the top of the page, and read the Tutorials on loading 223.

The part about lubing and sizing will show you how to use a case gauge.

Here is the Link.
6/27/2008 8:49:17 PM EDT
[#4]
Case gauge.
6/27/2008 9:09:22 PM EDT
[#5]
And the light goes on!  Thanks for the double spacing and the link.  Read everything on the site before, but the part about the case guage didn't sink in.  Now it does.  I did disassembled and cleaned my dies between the rounds that work and those that failed.  I must have change something.  I'll get a guage before I reload any more.  Love this site, guess I'll send the money and become a team member.  Double thanks again.  Do you guys think it's safe to shoot those rounds?
6/28/2008 1:58:50 AM EDT
[#6]
Here's more detail on using the case gage www.ar15.com/content/page.html?id=407

I wouldnt shoot those rounds, suck it up and pull the projectiles, you could resize without decappng the primers if you remove the decapping pin on your sizer die, but also if you decap the primers carefully you could use the primers again.

200 rds is a lot for a kinetic bullet puller a collet type puller such as the one from Hornady is faster, but you'll have to shell out more money for it.

If you have enough other brass and projectiles you can load with there's no hurry to pull the original 200 rds, pull 10 a day for the next 20 days or something.
6/28/2008 5:17:44 AM EDT
[#7]
Don't shoot, if they stick unfired, they will be worse when fired.

Lesson learned, nobody's perfect.

Hornaday and RCBS make collet pullers, much easier than the hammer type.

You will need the puller and a 22 cal collet. Link
6/28/2008 5:55:42 AM EDT
[#8]
The correct method for extracting a stuck round is in the FAQ's, and it works way better than beating on the charging handle.

In general practice, don't pound on guns with hammers.  Even light taps.
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