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6/13/2008 11:21:49 AM EDT
Hello, I posted this in the precision forum, but thought maybe It would be more suited for here.



I have a load worked up that shoots great for my rem 700 P in 308 win. My gun doesnt shoot very well with neck sized brass, but when full length sized, it will shoot under .75MOA all day long out to 500 yards. (havent had a chance to shoot any further yet)

I'm using Win brass. I'm also left handed using a right handed gun and I heard a case head separation can be nasty if this happens while shooting left handed.

I know the signs to look for..the ring 1/4" above case head, and about using a straightened paper clip to check inside.

I was just wondering how many reloads some people have gotten using full length dies before a case head separation. Thanks for any opinions!!

Alan
6/13/2008 11:38:29 AM EDT
[#1]
I use an M1A I re-load once fired brass 3x...........I feel a 4th re-load would be pushing it.

BUT........bolt guns are different.   And, your rifle is different from other bolt guns.  The answer you seek is mired in "differences."  Re-loading techniques, loads, pressures, chambers, etc.......
______________________________________________

As it was once said about "expected case life"........



The absolutely correct answer is "it depends." It depends on a LOT of things, and while it would be possible to cover many of the more important factors, it's simpler to say that you should stop loading a case when it shows signs of not being safe. Cracked cases, bulged cases, loose primer pockets, cases showing an incipient head separation (that bright ring just above the base is a dead giveaway), are some of the cases you should reject during the loading process. It should be VERY clear that you must inspect EACH case EVERY TIME you propose to load it. That will keep you safe.

GHPorter (AR15.COM Forum)



Aloha, Mark
6/13/2008 3:25:22 PM EDT
[#2]
I never had one in the  10's of thousands of my 223 reloads, the neck on the brass usually splits before I get a head separation
6/13/2008 4:05:41 PM EDT
[#3]
Remington 700?  With quality brass that lasts more than 2 reloads, head seperation is VERY rare unless you really oversize the brass.  And then, it is most likey to be a PITA rather than a real hazard.  

I have had a few in my .22 Hornet.  Only noticed it upon extraction.  Used a 7mm bore brush to remove the rest of the case.

I would recommend measuring the sized cases for head space.
6/13/2008 8:31:59 PM EDT
[#4]

Quoted:
Remington 700?  With quality brass that lasts more than 2 reloads, head seperation is VERY rare unless you really oversize the brass.  And then, it is most likey to be a PITA rather than a real hazard.  

I have had a few in my .22 Hornet.  Only noticed it upon extraction.  Used a 7mm bore brush to remove the rest of the case.

I would recommend measuring the sized cases for head space.


I guess I'll order the RCBS precision mic and try to learn how to measure for headspace.  I'll keep FL sizing them for now though.  I hate to change anything up seeing how good it's shooting, but its always best to work the brass least as possible.

Thanks for the help

Alan
6/14/2008 10:03:37 AM EDT
[#5]

Quoted:

Quoted:
Remington 700?  With quality brass that lasts more than 2 reloads, head seperation is VERY rare unless you really oversize the brass.  And then, it is most likey to be a PITA rather than a real hazard.  

I have had a few in my .22 Hornet.  Only noticed it upon extraction.  Used a 7mm bore brush to remove the rest of the case.

I would recommend measuring the sized cases for head space.


I guess I'll order the RCBS precision mic and try to learn how to measure for headspace.  I'll keep FL sizing them for now though.  I hate to change anything up seeing how good it's shooting, but its always best to work the brass least as possible.

Thanks for the help

Alan


Waste of money.  Just set up the die to BARELY size the case so that chambering isn't too difficult.  You can also try some 0.003" shim stock cut to circles a bit smaller than the case head.  Attach with a dab of case sizing lube.  If one thickness makes chambering stiff or impossible, you are minimally sized.  Two thicknesses should be a no-go to a stiff bolt closing.  Three thicknesses is TOO MUCH.

Another trick is to use Plastigage.  Yes, the same stuff used to check engine bearing clearances.  I use the red color, measures 0.002-0.006".  Again, adhere a small piece to the brass with a bit of Imperial Sizing Wax but over a slick part of the case head, not the bunted or headstamped areas.  Close the bolt and measure the width, that is your headspace.  It is an INVERSE measurement, more flattening, LESS headspace.  Shoot for 0.003-0.005" for longest life and reliable chambering.

There, I saved you about 300 cases.
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