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2/21/2016 12:48:24 AM EDT


Tonight, while shooting my M16, the bolt refused to go back into the buffer tube. I disassembled the upper and pulled out the recoil spring in the buffer tube, and a ring shaped piece of plastic fell out (see pic below). I'm thinking that the ring is a piece of the buffer. Am I correct?







One of the guys at the range said that I need an H3 buffer, as the machine gun combined with the short barrel is probably over-gassing the gun. Do you guys agree?







What buffer do you guys recommend?




Btw, how do I resize images?




























This is the gun. It is a registered M16 lower, with GI auto sear, 11.5 inch Colt LE upperl (not the original upper), with some silencer that I forget the brand of. The buffer is also not the original buffer. It is just the buffer that came with the collapsible stock. I run this gun in silenced full auto a lot. A very fun gun.









 
2/21/2016 1:28:57 AM EDT
[#1]
Your buffer is definitely shaking itself apart.  A heavier buffer couldn't hurt.

Suppression adds a lot of back pressure, which may be increasing your cyclic rate and bolt speed, especially with hot ammo. In that case, an adjustable gas block might also be a solution - but a heavier buffer would do the trick, as well.
2/21/2016 1:37:11 AM EDT
[#2]
Hard to tell exactly from the pictures, but it looks like that ring of material is part of the rubber bumper portion of the buffer.   I am not sure if you tried to take the buffer apart after the fact but the buffer roll pin looks to be dislodged and the rubber compression bumper on the end looks to be potentially rammed into the buffer body.  When that rubber bumper on the end got mashed into the buffer body it may have cut a donut shaped ring of rubber off the buffer bumper.

For suppressed full auto I personally prefer to run an adjustable gas block with an H3 buffer (aluminum body with 3 x tungsten weights).   That way I can cut the amount of gas coming down the gas tube.  I have used many different adjustable blocks over the years and currently use/recommend the micromoa blocks (no affiliation with micromoa).

If you don't want to run a adjustable block its best/ideal to start with an undrilled or under-drilled barrel and slowly open it up over a set of wire size drill bits until it runs reliably unsuppressed.   Many factory barrels are way over-drilled/over-gassed and putting a suppressor on them just makes an already over-gassed upper even worse.  

However, if you have to slow down an existing upper using just a heavy buffer (and no adjustable gas block), a Colt X buffer is the way to go in my estimation.   (A Colt X is  like an H3 but with a steel vs. aluminum body so it weighs more).  The Colt X was designed for suppressed 9MM uppers.

One thing you might want to  check is make sure that the bolt carrier key isn't hitting the lower receiver extension ring.  If you have an overgassed gun, run it with a suppressor, and have a damaged or worn buffer there is a significant likelihood the carrier may be bottoming out on the lower receiver extension ring.  if that is allowed to happen enough and you can crack the lower receiver.

In the pic below you can see the dent the carrier key is leaving a dent in the lower receiver extension ring and the extension tube itself.


2/21/2016 1:39:20 AM EDT
[#3]
Try a H2 buffer. Does the buffer even have the letter H on the front of it? Either way a new buffer is in order.
2/21/2016 4:43:57 AM EDT
[#4]
On my semi m4's I run a "H" buffer. With the shorter barrel and full auto you can probably start with a "H2". Also put a fresh spring in there while your at it.
Once the spring gets tired the buffer gets beat up.
2/25/2016 9:33:57 PM EDT
[#5]
I run an H2 with most ammo. MGI rate reducer with 5.56. Short bbl. Guns can run really fast with a standard buffer.
2/25/2016 11:24:37 PM EDT
[#6]
I use a combination of an adjustable gas block, h1 buffer and flat wire spring.
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