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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Re-anodizing a RR (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 9/10/2010 12:14:27 PM EDT
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Finally, after 2 years of looking and finding one in my price range, I finally own a M16 RR. I just got the call from the gentleman who I purchased the RR from and the paperwork showed up today. The rifle is currently at M60joe.com getting some work done on the mag-well, so it can accept PMags. The work should be complete shortly and I hope to pick the RR up by some time later next week.
I have one problem with the RR. It has some sort of epoxy paint on it (see pics below). The paint looks shiny and it is starting to flake off in some of the areas. I would like to get the RR completely stripped and re-anodized, but I have heard that getting a RR re-anodized can cause some distortion issues in the pin whole areas, etc. I got to shoot the gun before purchasing it and it ran like a top with my Colt 6920 upper and BCM 20" upper and I am afraid to mess with it. Do you guys recommend not getting it re-anodized and live with the crappy paint job or get it stripped and re-anodized? I remember reading a thread on hear about 6 months - 1yr ago about a guy who had his RR re-anodized, but I do not remember how it turned out. I email Victor at US Anodizing to see if he can do what I am asking, but I thought I would get your expert opinions as well. Thanks for the help. I feel like a kid in a candy store. 
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First contgrats on finally getting your toy.
First upgrade that is cheap to do is, get the KNS non Rotating pins to protect the hammer/trigger holes. Umm is PA one of those states where you can only have safe/full auto, not semi inbetween? I would suggest buying a new M16 Fire Control Group, made by colt if you can. Now for what I disagree with is what I'm quoting from you, why would you alter a RR M16 to fit cheap P-mags that are made of plastic that can be altered. I know for a fact that the older P-Mags were larger and I had to use a dremel to sand/carve out a section so they would fit my M16, the newer versions of P-Mags do not have this issue. Quoted:
The rifle is currently at M60joe.com getting some work done on the mag-well, so it can accept PMags. Edit to add: Looking at the picture that shows the P-Mag not going up high enough is EXACTLY the issue I had with my older P-Mags, again I would not alter the receiver. Edit to add more: You do have the older version of the P-Mag Here is a comparison, I would order a newer P-Mag and check to see if it fits first. The top one in the picture is the older one, just like the one you have. 
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First contgrats on finally getting your toy. First upgrade that is cheap to do is, get the KNS non Rotating pins to protect the hammer/trigger holes. Umm is PA one of those states where you can only have safe/full auto, not semi inbetween? I would suggest buying a new M16 Fire Control Group, made by colt if you can. Now for what I disagree with is what I'm quoting from you, why would you alter a RR M16 to fit cheap P-mags that are made of plastic that can be altered. I know for a fact that the older P-Mags were larger and I had to use a dremel to sand/carve out a section so they would fit my M16, the newer versions of P-Mags do not have this issue. Quoted:
The rifle is currently at M60joe.com getting some work done on the mag-well, so it can accept PMags. Edit to add: Looking at the picture that shows the P-Mag not going up high enough is EXACTLY the issue I had with my older P-Mags, again I would not alter the receiver. No, Safe-Semi-Auto is fine in PA. M60joe is only sanding down a little bit of the mag well edge to fit the PMags. It was a little bit out of spec and he is just going to put it back in spec. I am not to worried about it. I already ordered a set of KNS anti-rotation pins and brand new Colt internals (LPK, FCG, sear, etc) I am just unsure about the re-anodizing. |
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...getting some work done on the mag-well, so it can accept PMags. This is putting the cart before the horse. There are maybe over 1 billion M16 mags out there that'll fit this mag well but you have to make it fit PMags. Hate to see how you fit your car into your garage! As for refinishing, I would recommend some spray on moly coating or something along that line. You never know how much bondo you'll find under there once the paint is stripped. It's not like a car where you can check with a magnet. It may not take anodizing well due to whatever. |
| Honestly, I'm not trying to be a smart ass. What is your infatuation with PMAGS? I have owned a COLT M16A1 and numerous AR15s for years and never felt any need to buy pmags, much less put the knife to a RR to accomodate modern tech when 95% of what is out there works 100% with the old RRs. I think you need to calm way down and play with your new toy for while once its been in your own two hands b4 doing this-that-and-the-other-thing to it. |
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Refinish the entire lower. Without anodizing the AL is soft. Anodizing increases surface strength. I have not read about anyone's RR going out of spec from a refinish. Since its a conversion the auto sear hole is more than likely just bare AL with no anodizing. Having the lower look new is always a plus.
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You have to bead blast it to have it annodized. Most places arent set up to remove other finish types, just chemical strip existing anodizing. It will cost more and take more time or you have to do it prior to mailing.
You also have the issues of mailing it and insurance costs. I looked into having it done local but I would have to disassemble it, bead blast, take it in and wait 4 hours for the reciever to anodize. I just did mine in norrell moly resin for now. If your lower is cast it has to be anodized in grey, then you can spray it with a different black finish if you want. Black anodizing dosent turn out right on castings. I believe you have a frankford which is cast? |
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I have sent several receivers to Victor for re-anodizing and every one has come back looking new and mechanically perfect.
Insure the crap out of it and send it overnight or registered mail for safe delivery. If you have questions, ask Victor- he's the expert at this. |
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No, Safe-Semi-Auto is fine in PA. M60joe is only sanding down a little bit of the mag well edge to fit the PMags. It was a little bit out of spec and he is just going to put it back in spec. I am not to worried about it. I already ordered a set of KNS anti-rotation pins and brand new Colt internals (LPK, FCG, sear, etc) I am just unsure about the re-anodizing. I too would have the receiver dimensionally corrected to spec. I guarantee you those early PMAGs will fit into a Colt M16, which has a magwell that is in spec. I don't really even consider this to be "fitting the rifle to accept PMAGs", rather I think of the PMAG is a "gauge", which indicates the receiver is out of spec. and should be "fixed". Since the paint will be compromised during the magwell fix, I too would recommend that you have Victor re-anodize the receiver. Actually, even if you weren't having work done on the magwell, I would highly recommend an anodized finish on an M16, as opposed to any type of paint. |
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+1 on the re-anodizing by Victor.
I'm not a fan of re-anodizing for purely cosmetic reasons (for instance, to turn a mint gray factory Colt M16 into a black gun), but when you are bringing an RR into spec by removing metal, you are also removing the anodizing. Instead of a hard surface, you now have exposed the softer aluminum, which is much more prone to wear. Re-anodizing restores the hard surface, and thus is much, much more effective at preserving an expensive receiver than a coat of paint or any moly treatment. |
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I had a Sendra BFI converted RR and it never was anodized and I wonder if yours ever was either. Mine had that same cheap ass paint that was chipping off and I could not stand the look. Some companys never had the RRs anodized because it was not worth the time back prior to 86. At 100 bucks a pop "who cares about it" was thier attitude with RRs.
I sent mine out to Victor at US Anodizing also and let me tell you.... it was the best thing I did for my RR. Made it look like a new gun and gave it a coat of protection. If yours never was anodized and just was sprayed I would ship it off to Victor. You wont regret it. Rob |
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What does it cost to refinish a RR? I have a few small issues with mine that I would like to get fixed, it works great but Id like to bring it into spec and would need to have her finish re-done after.
I have a Oly/Frankford RR and was also thinking if its being reworked it would be nice to have it remarked like the newer receivers done by FA. I email the owner of Franford about it and never heard back from him. |
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What does it cost to refinish a RR? I have a few small issues with mine that I would like to get fixed, it works great but Id like to bring it into spec and would need to have her finish re-done after. I have a Oly/Frankford RR and was also thinking if its being reworked it would be nice to have it remarked like the newer receivers done by FA. I email the owner of Franford about it and never heard back from him. The present Frankford is not the same company. The folks who made yours went out of business, and let their FFL/SOT lapse. The present owners resurrected the name (and may have bought the rights to said name), but they have no business relationship with the old Frankford Armory nor responsibility for their products, and generally do not deal with owners of products made by them. To answer your other question: U.S. Anodizing charges $150 to reanodize a stripped transferable RR lower receiver. |
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What does it cost to refinish a RR? I have a few small issues with mine that I would like to get fixed, it works great but Id like to bring it into spec and would need to have her finish re-done after. I have a Oly/Frankford RR and was also thinking if its being reworked it would be nice to have it remarked like the newer receivers done by FA. I email the owner of Franford about it and never heard back from him. The present Frankford is not the same company. The folks who made yours went out of business, and let their FFL/SOT lapse. The present owners resurrected the name (and may have bought the rights to said name), but they have no business relationship with the old Frankford Armory nor responsibility for their products, and generally do not deal with owners of products made by them. To answer your other question: U.S. Anodizing charges $150 to reanodize a stripped transferable RR lower receiver. I know he doesn't have to do any work on my RR, I was hoping he had a SOT and would agree to do the work for me. I spoke to him over the phone a year or so ago and at that time he could not work on class 3 goodies, Im just hoping he changes his mind and will hook me up. |
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You have to bead blast it to have it annodized. Most places arent set up to remove other finish types, just chemical strip existing anodizing. It will cost more and take more time or you have to do it prior to mailing. You also have the issues of mailing it and insurance costs. I looked into having it done local but I would have to disassemble it, bead blast, take it in and wait 4 hours for the reciever to anodize. I just did mine in norrell moly resin for now. If your lower is cast it has to be anodized in grey, then you can spray it with a different black finish if you want. Black anodizing dosent turn out right on castings. I believe you have a frankford which is cast? Not sure where this urban legend came from but I have access to (its a very close friends that I do all the leg work to get his C3 purchases and other toys into the Corporation for) a EA just back from Victor and it was done in the new Mil Spec black. Victor never mentioned any issues with doing it black and I'm sure he would have if it were. I haven't been able to lay eyes and hands on it (still at our C3) but I'll report back once I do. ETA: Victor is the best in the biz and I'll be sending my PAWS RR out as soon as the shooting season ends here. Cold weather means time to sit down and reload and reconfigure builds for next spring. 
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The lower has been shipped back from M60joe and I picked it up this evening. It will be going out first thing in the morning to usanodizing.com to get refinished.
Edit: As you can see, there is some thick paint on it. The Frankford Arsenal symbols are just readable when looking at it closely. 
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I have been back and forth on this issue with my old lower. Its an EA. Its a Colt grey right now, and it looks bad. I really dont think Im going to mess around with it though, as I have put the wear on it through honest use.
I realize it would look better when assembled to be the newer black color, but it earned the right to look like it does. If anything I might would consider spraying some "Aluma Hyde" or something on it to try to save the rest of the old grey. Im assuming you can strip Aluma hyde with solvent, right? I hate to have to use something stronger than the original finish to remove the paint should I want to . |
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I have been back and forth on this issue with my old lower. Its an EA. Its a Colt grey right now, and it looks bad. I really dont think Im going to mess around with it though, as I have put the wear on it through honest use. I realize it would look better when assembled to be the newer black color, but it earned the right to look like it does. If anything I might would consider spraying some "Aluma Hyde" or something on it to try to save the rest of the old grey. Im assuming you can strip Aluma hyde with solvent, right? I hate to have to use something stronger than the original finish to remove the paint should I want to . As soon as I have pics to post, I'll show you the work Victor did on the EA I had sent to him.... it may change your mind. :-) |
| Have an M16A1, just picked it up yesterday, but it was reanodized at U.S. Anodizing early this year (right before 1st transfer) and the work is immaculate! I would highly recommend this company to anyone looking to have a RR refinished. Color matches the original Colt upper too, even though I won't be running the original upper, just shows this guy really knows what he's doing. |
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Hi
I just finally got my RR Sendra lower M16A1 that was converted by Bushmaster. It also looks like it just has paint on it. In fact it is white under some of the flaking. I'am looking to have it redone. Thanks for all the info. I had already found the US Anodizing web site. Sounded good. But after reading these posts it sounds like the place to go. Right now it has a S&W 5.45X39 upper on it, with the Colt FA bolt carrier in it and runs great. But the lower looks terrible. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/Cab707/Firearms/MyM167.jpg See what I mean. Thanks guys........and sorry to steal your post MP15T.......... CAB |
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See what I mean. Thanks guys........and sorry to steal your post MP15T.......... CAB Dont worry about it. Victor @ US anodizing contacted me this past Friday and he said that my RR should be getting shipped back to me any day now. As I stated before, I will post some before and after pics. CAB, Mine looked very similar to yours. It had some weird paint on it. Victor said that he stripped it down to the white aluminum and then re-anodized it. |
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Hi I just finally got my RR Sendra lower M16A1 that was converted by Bushmaster. It also looks like it just has paint on it. In fact it is white under some of the flaking. I'am looking to have it redone. Thanks for all the info. I had already found the US Anodizing web site. Sounded good. But after reading these posts it sounds like the place to go. Right now it has a S&W 5.45X39 upper on it, with the Colt FA bolt carrier in it and runs great. But the lower looks terrible. http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y192/Cab707/Firearms/MyM167.jpg See what I mean. Thanks guys........and sorry to steal your post MP15T.......... CAB Yuck those white spots are bare AL you can press on it with your nail and make a tiny indent mark. I would send it out before you do a lot more shooting. |
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Just got back from picking up the RR at the Post Office. Victor did an amazing job. I am almost in shock. The lower looks brand new. Below are some of the before pics. You can see the areas where M60Joe did his fantastic work around the magwell. The rest of the pics show all of areas where the paint was flaking and the anodizing had worn off. I am still at the office, but I will take some after pics tonight and post them later.
Edit: Blackberry after pics Before: 
After: 
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Bad news, but I do not want to get into it until I hear back from Victor at US Anodizing. I will keep everyone update.  Dont leave us wondering!  Here is what it looked like right out of the box after shipping.
Here is what it looked like after I put a layer of masking tape on it to protect it from putting the trigger guard and bolt catch on and removing the tape. The anodizing has fallen off in about 12-15 spots. 
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Hmm maybe some the original paint finish was left on or just had some dirt/oilspots before they re-anodized? I bet Victor is going to ask you send it back but make sure they cover shipping both ways. That is what I am thinking as well. I will keep everyone updated as soon as I hear back from Victor. |
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Can they just redip it in the solution and "patch" the bad spots since their solution will most likely yeild the same color results? Doesn't the anodizing grow so thick and then stop? Anodizing is not a surface treatment –– instead, it is a subsurface metal-hardening process. It is not a "dip" in any way. While there is a slight surface buildup, that is a side effect –– the purpose is to harden down into the aluminum itself. The color change is an unintentional and unpredictable side effect. In this case, somethign interfered with the process. The places which are bare may be aluminum which, though lacking color, may already be hardened both on and below the surface ... or the spots you see may lack both color and hardening. Either way, a complete detailed cleaning and re-anodize will give you a correct treatment, both subsurface and in appearance. |
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I currently own a RR Colt M16A1 in 99% condition. i have never fired it like the previous owner and have pondered this issue for a while, because the Colt gray also drives me nuts. I have spoke to COLT and to SAW(Ken Elmore, he is a big stroke but at least honest) and they do NOT recommend reanodizing IF the finsh is in tact and Ken does not like to work on them either. I was told anodizing bonds with surface aluminum and once removed, no matter what, metal goes with it. Also, Tapping out the trigger guard pin and bolt catch pin is always risky on a new lower let alone a 25=35 year old 10-15 thousand $ piece. Also I would NOT have bought this gun if it was reanodized and know for a fact in dealing with many dealers it does lessen the buyers and reduce it's value. As far as your RR conversion I hope you got a deal on it in that condition and have heard great things about US anodizing from alot of folks including dealers like Ruben Mendiola who use Victor exclusively. If I had your lower I would have no choice and definately sent it to Victor and never looked back BUT kept my fingers crossed for what is underneath the paint finish, either way you did what you had to.
I went with Colt to avoid the pain and suffering you are going through and it is worth every penny of the extra 5000. I have decided to leave my Colt M16A1alone and have come to appreciate the rifle for what it is. I have decided and are now looking at a Colt AR15 Mod 613 RR in very good condition from a PD armory. If I can get it 10,500-11,000 I might consider sending it to Victor and risking the re-anodizing in colt black OR just forget the RR and just go the steel RDIAS route in a modern Colt or whatever make AR host. Would love to see the result from Victor and hope all turns out great for you. |
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Hmm maybe some the original paint finish was left on or just had some dirt/oilspots before they re-anodized? I bet Victor is going to ask you send it back but make sure they cover shipping both ways. That is what I am thinking as well. I will keep everyone updated as soon as I hear back from Victor. So, what happened? |
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Probably not updating because he is probably embarassed and realized after two years he still went the cheap route, bought a nasty looking out of spec dog registered lower on the cheap (one would hope), and it is probably beyond repair and this guy has his heart broken and feels like an idiot. A big L on his forehead. There is a sucker born every minute. I Hate the prices but buy a colt or even a BFI converted sendra AND make sure it is in like new or excellent condition. If the seller wants an extra grand because of its condition, PAY IT, it is worth it in the end. This guy is screwed with the lower he bought and probably explains why it was painted and not refinished properly in the first place, DUH! If you can't afford it now wait a little longer, save some extra cash and then buy something quality that you can use or even resell if needed. This genius makes me shake my head and chuckle a little, I mean why modify a RR magwell for P-mags? And then try to make a substandard RR something it is not. In a way he got what he deserved. Oh well! This reminds of a Dr. Phil show or Springer episode where your compelled to watch and say what an idiot BUT it is something we can learn from in the end and say thank God it aint me.
Not sure about the Moly Coat products but that may be his only way to go, you get what you pay for with an Olympic RR. What is the saying (I could be wrong) "no sense throwing good money at bad" or whatever? I guess well never know what happened but use your imagination on how this drama ends. THINK OF IT AS AN INVESTMENT, BUYER BEWARE AND GO WITH A REPUTABLE LICENSED DEALER ! |
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Quoted: Probably not updating because he is probably embarassed and realized after two years he still went the cheap route, bought a nasty looking out of spec dog registered lower on the cheap (one would hope), and it is probably beyond repair and this guy has his heart broken and feels like an idiot. A big L on his forehead. There is a sucker born every minute. I Hate the prices but buy a colt or even a BFI converted sendra AND make sure it is in like new or excellent condition. If the seller wants an extra grand because of its condition, PAY IT, it is worth it in the end. This guy is screwed with the lower he bought and probably explains why it was painted and not refinished properly in the first place, DUH! If you can't afford it now wait a little longer, save some extra cash and then buy something quality that you can use or even resell if needed. This genius makes me shake my head and chuckle a little, I mean why modify a RR magwell for P-mags? And then try to make a substandard RR something it is not. In a way he got what he deserved. Oh well! This reminds of a Dr. Phil show or Springer episode where your compelled to watch and say what an idiot BUT it is something we can learn from in the end and say thank God it aint me. Not sure about the Moly Coat products but that may be his only way to go, you get what you pay for with an Olympic RR. What is the saying (I could be wrong) "no sense throwing good money at bad" or whatever? I guess well never know what happened but use your imagination on how this drama ends. THINK OF IT AS AN INVESTMENT, BUYER BEWARE AND GO WITH A REPUTABLE LICENSED DEALER ! Sorry about not updating this thread. I started a new thread with all of the info in it a long time ago. I totally forgot about this thread until it popped up in my subscribed box this morning. Below is the link to the finished thread. The gun turned out great. http://www.ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=23&t=327670 |
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Probably not updating because he is probably embarassed and realized after two years he still went the cheap route, bought a nasty looking out of spec dog registered lower on the cheap (one would hope), and it is probably beyond repair and this guy has his heart broken and feels like an idiot...A big L on his forehead. There is a sucker born every minute...This genius makes me shake my head and chuckle a little...In a way he got what he deserved. Oh well! This reminds of a Dr. Phil show or Springer episode where your compelled to watch and say what an idiot BUT it is something we can learn from in the end and say thank God it aint me... I would suggest that you be a little more respectful in the future. |
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Probably not updating because he is probably embarassed and realized after two years he still went the cheap route, bought a nasty looking out of spec dog registered lower on the cheap (one would hope), and it is probably beyond repair and this guy has his heart broken and feels like an idiot. A big L on his forehead. There is a sucker born every minute. I Hate the prices but buy a colt or even a BFI converted sendra AND make sure it is in like new or excellent condition. If the seller wants an extra grand because of its condition, PAY IT, it is worth it in the end. This guy is screwed with the lower he bought and probably explains why it was painted and not refinished properly in the first place, DUH! If you can't afford it now wait a little longer, save some extra cash and then buy something quality that you can use or even resell if needed. This genius makes me shake my head and chuckle a little, I mean why modify a RR magwell for P-mags? And then try to make a substandard RR something it is not. In a way he got what he deserved. Oh well! This reminds of a Dr. Phil show or Springer episode where your compelled to watch and say what an idiot BUT it is something we can learn from in the end and say thank God it aint me. Not sure about the Moly Coat products but that may be his only way to go, you get what you pay for with an Olympic RR. What is the saying (I could be wrong) "no sense throwing good money at bad" or whatever? I guess well never know what happened but use your imagination on how this drama ends. THINK OF IT AS AN INVESTMENT, BUYER BEWARE AND GO WITH A REPUTABLE LICENSED DEALER ! Where was this profound advice for the OP before he bought his Olympic?? 
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I currently own a RR Colt M16A1 in 99% condition. i have never fired it like the previous owner and have pondered this issue for a while, because the Colt gray also drives me nuts. I have spoke to COLT and to SAW(Ken Elmore, he is a big stroke but at least honest) and they do NOT recommend reanodizing IF the finsh is in tact and Ken does not like to work on them either. I was told anodizing bonds with surface aluminum and once removed, no matter what, metal goes with it. Also, Tapping out the trigger guard pin and bolt catch pin is always risky on a new lower let alone a 25=35 year old 10-15 thousand $ piece. Also I would NOT have bought this gun if it was reanodized and know for a fact in dealing with many dealers it does lessen the buyers and reduce it's value. As far as your RR conversion I hope you got a deal on it in that condition and have heard great things about US anodizing from alot of folks including dealers like Ruben Mendiola who use Victor exclusively. If I had your lower I would have no choice and definately sent it to Victor and never looked back BUT kept my fingers crossed for what is underneath the paint finish, either way you did what you had to. I went with Colt to avoid the pain and suffering you are going through and it is worth every penny of the extra 5000. I have decided to leave my Colt M16A1alone and have come to appreciate the rifle for what it is. I have decided and are now looking at a Colt AR15 Mod 613 RR in very good condition from a PD armory. If I can get it 10,500-11,000 I might consider sending it to Victor and risking the re-anodizing in colt black OR just forget the RR and just go the steel RDIAS route in a modern Colt or whatever make AR host. Would love to see the result from Victor and hope all turns out great for you. No truer words have ever been spoken. |
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you get what you pay for with an Olympic RR. What is the saying (I could be wrong) "no sense throwing good money at bad" or whatever? I guess well never know what happened but use your imagination on how this drama ends. THINK OF IT AS AN INVESTMENT, BUYER BEWARE AND GO WITH A REPUTABLE LICENSED DEALER ! Where was this profound advice for the OP before he bought his Olympic?? First off the OP has a Frankfort Arsenal receiver. The entire issue about the P-Mags as I pointed out in my first reply post was it's the P-Mag version that has problems and it was several different type of NEWER AR receivers that couldn't take them either. Because of this issue MAGPUL fixed the issue with their newest versions of P-Mags. As a owner of a PAWS Olympic Arms RR M16 I do take offense to you thinking they are sub quality etc... Just like the first myth that comes out about OA RR M16's, "it's cast" when OA never made cast receivers until after 1986. Also as stated by some NFA is not an investment for most but a hobby, meaning we are shooting our stuff and having fun with it, instead of keeping it locked away in the safe only to look pretty and never enjoying it. |
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you get what you pay for with an Olympic RR. What is the saying (I could be wrong) "no sense throwing good money at bad" or whatever? I guess well never know what happened but use your imagination on how this drama ends. THINK OF IT AS AN INVESTMENT, BUYER BEWARE AND GO WITH A REPUTABLE LICENSED DEALER ! Where was this profound advice for the OP before he bought his Olympic?? First off the OP has a Frankfort Arsenal receiver. The entire issue about the P-Mags as I pointed out in my first reply post was it's the P-Mag version that has problems and it was several different type of NEWER AR receivers that couldn't take them either. Because of this issue MAGPUL fixed the issue with their newest versions of P-Mags. As a owner of a PAWS Olympic Arms RR M16 I do take offense to you thinking they are sub quality etc... Just like the first myth that comes out about OA RR M16's, "it's cast" when OA never made cast receivers until after 1986. Also as stated by some NFA is not an investment for most but a hobby, meaning we are shooting our stuff and having fun with it, instead of keeping it locked away in the safe only to look pretty and never enjoying it. There are good ar's out there and there are decent ar RR conversions like Sendra done by BFI and PAWS did good work but unfortunately were done on OLY lowers. No matter what you try and do they are NOT and never will be a COLT RR machine gun. The sendra BFI conversion runs second to a COLT machine gun. My understanding Frankford Arsenal bought a bunch of OLY blanks back in the day for conversions so check your history before you open your mouth. Also in his new posted pics of the refinfish lower it appears the Frankford fort picture roll marked into the lower is missing. If my memory serves me right that is what Frankford was placing on the lowers from OLY. Of course I know OLY is NOT a cast a receiver that is a different discussion all together. Fact remains, if your offended oh well, you bought an OLY RR conversion it is substandard to a Colt RR not only in spec(highly likely) but in quality and investment value. My Vector UZI is not a registered bolt gun conversion on a model a or b, it is the closest thing to an original uzi subgun you will ever find and engineered and designed for full auto fire. This is similar situation to the ar15 conversions but either way the bolt gun or ar15 conversion is substandard not worth the money and prone to problems. Just wait, save some extra dough and buy the real thing.IT IS WHAT IT IS |
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you get what you pay for with an Olympic RR. What is the saying (I could be wrong) "no sense throwing good money at bad" or whatever? I guess well never know what happened but use your imagination on how this drama ends. THINK OF IT AS AN INVESTMENT, BUYER BEWARE AND GO WITH A REPUTABLE LICENSED DEALER ! Where was this profound advice for the OP before he bought his Olympic?? First off the OP has a Frankfort Arsenal receiver. The entire issue about the P-Mags as I pointed out in my first reply post was it's the P-Mag version that has problems and it was several different type of NEWER AR receivers that couldn't take them either. Because of this issue MAGPUL fixed the issue with their newest versions of P-Mags. As a owner of a PAWS Olympic Arms RR M16 I do take offense to you thinking they are sub quality etc... Just like the first myth that comes out about OA RR M16's, "it's cast" when OA never made cast receivers until after 1986. Also as stated by some NFA is not an investment for most but a hobby, meaning we are shooting our stuff and having fun with it, instead of keeping it locked away in the safe only to look pretty and never enjoying it. Agreed I own a PAWS to and it does the same thing as a colt but was less money. The only issue I ever had with it is the countersink on the rear takedown pin is slightly shallow and other that that is matchs up very well to a buddy of mines colt. No it don't say colt but it still shoots full auto and still have a few $$ in my pocket :) Maybe some of the colt guys are just pissed they paid to much, who knows. |
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Maybe some of the colt guys are just pissed they paid to much, who knows. They aren't pissed about spending too much (maybe a few are)....Some people just need to feel better about themselves and their decision to spend some extra money by putting other folks down. |
[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Re-anodizing a RR (Page 1 of 2)
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