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Posted: 6/3/2006 2:26:30 PM EDT
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I just bought a RR. It has a 11.5 upper on it. I read somewhere that these shorter uppers really beat up the gun. I want to keep my reciever as nice as possible. Do I need to get a longer barrel? What types of things are hard on the receiver that I should avoid? (9mm AR uppers?) |
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High rate of fire is harder on the gun. 22lr kit has the highest rate of fire so that is the most wear. The 9mm kit will cause no problems at all, if you get the bolt ramped, and run wolf XP recoil springs and the heaviest shorty stock buffer you can buy. The KNS external pin device is pretty popular with the transferable M16 croud, this locks all trigger/hammer/sear pins together gives them support and keeps them from spinning/grinding the holes in the receiver. |
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My patented advice for new owners of pre-1986 transferable RR's: If you can resist the urge, before you even shoot it -- or as soon thereafter as possible -- do a complete detail strip and cleaning. --Inspect the fire-control parts (hammer, trigger, disconnector, selector and autosear) for bright spots that may indicate uneven or premature wear. If you find wear, buy and install a new fire-control system -- you can buy a complete set for $100, give-or-take. --Inspect the areas around all pivot pin holes for wear (bright metal) or raised edge ridges that may indicate geometry issues that can lead to egging the holes. --Replace the most-used (and most easily replaced) springs: Hammer, trigger, disconnector, selector (under the pistol grip), rear retaining pin spring and buffer retention spring. Springs can take a set, or have been stretched or kinked by a previous owner; a full set costs less than $10 and will start you out fresh. --Install KNS locking pins to prevent future wear. --Lube everything correctly and reassemble. The total cost of the above is less than $40, unless you need to replace the FC system, and will eliminate about 99% of the reliability issues and potential causes of premature wear. HTH! 
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The best way is to go to MG shoots and meet other MG owners, and shoot/listen to their guns after asking what their ROFs are. There usually is at least a couple of MG-ers who have bought timers -- they know their own ROFs, and/or may be willing to time yours. And after enough experience, you'll get a feel for it and be able to tell the difference between 600 rpm and 700 rpm, etc. It's surprisingly easy, as long as you don't go deaf in the process.  BTW, as long as the rate-of-fire is not greatly out of spec, it is only important in how it affects your shooting ability with a particular machine gun. For instance, with an ROF under 750 rpm on an M16 or clone, you can easily teach yourself how to get triples and doubles with trigger discipline; once the ROF drops into the 600s, you should be able to pull off singles. OTOH, if all you want to do is dump a full mag as fast as possible, you want the highest possible ROF.
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Agree with what's been said. Now I don't know your purpose in owning an M16. But mine's for blasting and collecting. And I'm not knocking the after-market stuff. But consider that the simplest and least expensive approach is to simply leave the A1 stock on the lower. Low-tech, old-tech, dead-tech, whatever - the full length 5.15 oz rifle buffer weighs pretty close to a the more expensive MGI/enidine/AAC/CAR buffers and does almost - almost, I said - as well at keeping ROF down - even with 11.5s. Hard to argue with the cheek weld, too. Before almost every shoot I get an itch to reinstall a collapsible. Then I remember why I installed the full length A1. I can't see how a collapsible helps send Wolf downrange into burned out cars more efficiently. Sam |
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I totally agree with the above post. For some reason, running a collapsible stock is hit and miss. I'm putting the full size stock back on my M16...I've spent too much time screwing with the telescoping stocks when I know a full size stock will work every time. Face it, we're all just pumping ammo into the dirt for fun anyways- the rest is just cosmetic pimp shit. Use what you know will work. |
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