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Posted: 5/1/2014 6:57:15 AM EDT
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Stamp came through last week. I'll be getting my Octane 9 soon. This is my first "user servicable" can.
What cleaning regimen do you use for the can and baffles? (I do not have access to an ultrasonic cleaning tank. I need something I can do in my garage.) |
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Stamp came through last week. I'll be getting my Octane 9 soon. This is my first "user servicable" can. What cleaning regimen do you use for the can and baffles? (I do not have access to an ultrasonic cleaning tank. I need something I can do in my garage.) taggage |
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Stamp came through last week. I'll be getting my Octane 9 soon. This is my first "user servicable" can. What cleaning regimen do you use for the can and baffles? (I do not have access to an ultrasonic cleaning tank. I need something I can do in my garage.) Find a harbor freight rock tumbler or used rock tumbler on craigslist. Use some stainless steel pins. Lemeshine and dawn liquid soap. It will polish the steel up real nice. I ran this past the guys at silencerCo and they approved that method. You can also use a scouring pad and use the lemeshine and dawn soap. You shouldn't have to do this often though, unless you put 22LR through it. http://www.harborfreight.com/3-lb-rotary-rock-tumbler-67631.html http://www.ebay.com/itm/ULTRA-47-Stainless-Steel-Pellet-Pins-Tumbling-Media-1-FREE-Priority-Ship-USPS-/161266982964?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item258c42e034 He gives instructions on his post. Just don't tumble the outer can. I tumble brass for reloading, so this is what comes to mind for me personally. |
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Ultrasonic is the 'cleanest' method and one that I think does zero damage to the baffles. The tumbler with brass pins (I don't like the idea of stainless on stainless) sounds like a decent way to go, but ultrasonic might be the best route to go.
OR... just don't worry about it. Unless you shoot lots of 22 lr ammo through it, you can shoot the can all you want and not worry about cleaning it. |
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Details on "The Dip"? Quoted:
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"The Dip" Details on "The Dip"? The DIP = 50% hydrogen peroxide and 50% vinegar. It eats lead and the resulting product from the reaction is a nasty chemical called Lead Acetate. It's highly toxic and must be disposed of properly when your community does the hazmat cleanup days. The DIP must never be used on aluminum as it will be damaged by the chemical reaction. ONLY use the DIP on stainless steel components. |
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You can search for this, but I have a $70 ultrasonic cleaner and I use Simple Green. About an hour or two. The only thing about the cheap ultrasonic I have is it only lets you go for 480 seconds at a time. I pour the solution through a coffee filter at the end to reuse it later. The filters go in a jar and I take the used solution and filters in on Haz Waste days.
I have this one: Harbor Freight ultrasonic cleaner 
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I purchased a 2.5L unit off of eBay for around $150. It's a heated unit that gets the solution up to ~160 degrees F and seems to work pretty well. I think Silencerco runs their parts for an hour at 175F according to their cleaning videos.
I think you might need to bump your budget up a little bit. |
Here's a thread one of the previous posters in this thread pointed me to when I asked a similar question: 
(Yes, it's a couple years old)...Using stainless/brass media to clean baffles. Good reading. I bought the HF tumbler linked above (easy to find HF coupons for another 20% or so) and the 2# bag of SS pins from http://stainlesstumblingmedia.com. That's how I plan to clean my Spectre II and Octane 9 when they arrive. If you go with the HF tumbler, make sure to read the comments. You need to check the belt alignment before using it. Also, they do offer one twice that size, and last time I looked it was only $10 more. |
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I've been using an RCBS unit to clean the carbon (FYI, I don't shoot lead in my Octane. If you shoot lead you'll probably need the DiP). Temperature gets up to 140 and the timer goes as long as 30mins. After a few cycles, and one change of the solution (50/50 Purple Power and Water) the baffles come out pretty clean. There are still spots on the inside here and there but I don't bother cleaning them. Basically I just follow the instructions from SWR: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byfitWx1kYE
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I've been using an RCBS unit to clean the carbon (FYI, I don't shoot lead in my Octane. If you shoot lead you'll probably need the DiP). Temperature gets up to 140 and the timer goes as long as 30mins. After a few cycles, and one change of the solution (50/50 Purple Power and Water) the baffles come out pretty clean. There are still spots on the inside here and there but I don't bother cleaning them. Basically I just follow the instructions from SWR: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byfitWx1kYE Ultrasonic it once a year at most (seriously, show me all those photos of clogged up 9mm cans!) and move on. |
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Ultrasonic it once a year at most (seriously, show me all those photos of clogged up 9mm cans!) and move on. Quoted:
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I've been using an RCBS unit to clean the carbon (FYI, I don't shoot lead in my Octane. If you shoot lead you'll probably need the DiP). Temperature gets up to 140 and the timer goes as long as 30mins. After a few cycles, and one change of the solution (50/50 Purple Power and Water) the baffles come out pretty clean. There are still spots on the inside here and there but I don't bother cleaning them. Basically I just follow the instructions from SWR: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byfitWx1kYE Ultrasonic it once a year at most (seriously, show me all those photos of clogged up 9mm cans!) and move on. You have your plan and I have mine. I shot about 1,000rds through my Octane during my first month of having it home. I cleaned it at 350rds and again at about the 1,000rd mark. Having a clean expansion chamber makes it easier to remove after shooting, and a clean piston binds less. |
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Ultrasonic is the 'cleanest' method and one that I think does zero damage to the baffles. The tumbler with brass pins (I don't like the idea of stainless on stainless) sounds like a decent way to go, but ultrasonic might be the best route to go. OR... just don't worry about it. Unless you shoot lots of 22 lr ammo through it, you can shoot the can all you want and not worry about cleaning it. What would be your definition of lots of 22LR |
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I have a Kestrel 22 with the SS Shrouded baffles. I have put a lot of 22 through it probably close to 5 before I got my rotary tumbler. It was a pain to clean. I ended up using the dip to get it 100% clean due to all the lead that has built up on the baffles from shooting it.
Questions about the dip. I know it makes lead acetate. What if you were to some how neutralize the acid would it still be as dangerous? Would Baking soda neutralize the acid? MAHA |
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I have a Kestrel 22 with the SS Shrouded baffles. I have put a lot of 22 through it probably close to 5 before I got my rotary tumbler. It was a pain to clean. I ended up using the dip to get it 100% clean due to all the lead that has built up on the baffles from shooting it. Questions about the dip. I know it makes lead acetate. What if you were to some how neutralize the acid would it still be as dangerous? Would Baking soda neutralize the acid? MAHA Been reading up on that. You can add sulfuric acid to lead acetate to make lead sulfate. That is still toxic, but precipitates out of solution and can be strained. The precipitate is easier to handle and dispose of. Still needs to go to a hazmat disposal. In general, most lead containing compounds have some level of human toxicity. |
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Quoted: I have a Kestrel 22 with the SS Shrouded baffles. I have put a lot of 22 through it probably close to 5 before I got my rotary tumbler. It was a pain to clean. I ended up using the dip to get it 100% clean due to all the lead that has built up on the baffles from shooting it. Questions about the dip. I know it makes lead acetate. What if you were to some how neutralize the acid would it still be as dangerous? Would Baking soda neutralize the acid? MAHA From the user Baffled: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Kind of a late reply, but a note on the "dip." Dipping produces lead acetate, a water-soluble lead compound that is just toxic as hell. It can be rendered LESS toxic, and much safer to handle, by precipitating out the lead into an insoluble lead salt. Mix up about a pint of epsom salts. Make the solution saturated, i.e. add enough epsom salts so that no more will dissolve. Take your used dip, and slowly add the epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) solution. You will immediately see solid lead sulfate fall out (precipitate) as a powder. Continue adding epsom salts until no more lead sulfate forms. If in doubt, add it all. The solubility of lead acetate is about 50 grams per liter... that is a lot. Lead sulfate is only 0.0038 grams per liter. Lead sulfate is still toxic, like all lead salts, but much, much less dangerous than lead acetate. Yes I was once a chemist! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It's a classic reaction called a displacement. Ignore the peroxide, it plays no part in this. With lead acetate, you have the Pb++ ions floating about, dissolved, as well as the acetate anions. As soon as your solution of magnesium sulfate is added, the sulfate anions glom onto the lead cations, and they fall out as a white solid. It looks something like this Pb++ (aq) + 2[CH3COO]-(aq) + Mg++(aq) + SO4--(aq) ----> PbSO4(s) + Mg++(aq) + 2[CH3COO]-(aq) aq = aqueous, dissolved, s = solid The acetate ions and magnesium ions are called spectator ions; they don't do anything and remain dissolved. You'll end up with a fine white powder in the liquid, the lead sulfate. Yes it must still be treated as hazardous, but its ability to get into your body is much, much less likely as the lead acetate. It might take a long time to settle, and it eventually will. What you'll have is a layer of lead sulfate at the bottom of your container, topped with magnesium acetate solution and a tiny, tiny amount of dissolved lead sulfate. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The liquid still has traces of lead in it. You have a couple of choices: 1) Empty the contents into a LABELED bucket and let it evaporate to dryness. The solids will still have lead in them. Place all solids into a labeled container. 2) Sequester all of it into a poly container like an old milk jug. Clearly label it "POISON, LEAD SALTS" and take it to a place that accepts used/old household toxins like pesticides. All the making of lead sulfate does is minimize the danger, not eliminate it. It's similar to barium salts. Barium nitrate is a deadly poison because it is so soluble in water. Barium sulfate is so insoluble that you can drink a slurry of it, which is exactly what they do in hospitals for digestive radiological imaging. |
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http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=99718&start=25 From the user Baffled: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Kind of a late reply, but a note on the "dip." Dipping produces lead acetate, a water-soluble lead compound that is just toxic as hell. It can be rendered LESS toxic, and much safer to handle, by precipitating out the lead into an insoluble lead salt. Mix up about a pint of epsom salts. Make the solution saturated, i.e. add enough epsom salts so that no more will dissolve. {snip} Quoted:
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I have a Kestrel 22 with the SS Shrouded baffles. I have put a lot of 22 through it probably close to 5 before I got my rotary tumbler. It was a pain to clean. I ended up using the dip to get it 100% clean due to all the lead that has built up on the baffles from shooting it. Questions about the dip. I know it makes lead acetate. What if you were to some how neutralize the acid would it still be as dangerous? Would Baking soda neutralize the acid? MAHA http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=99718&start=25 From the user Baffled: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Kind of a late reply, but a note on the "dip." Dipping produces lead acetate, a water-soluble lead compound that is just toxic as hell. It can be rendered LESS toxic, and much safer to handle, by precipitating out the lead into an insoluble lead salt. Mix up about a pint of epsom salts. Make the solution saturated, i.e. add enough epsom salts so that no more will dissolve. {snip} Table salt works, as well. |
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http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=99718&start=25 From the user Baffled: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Kind of a late reply, but a note on the "dip." Dipping produces lead acetate, a water-soluble lead compound that is just toxic as hell. It can be rendered LESS toxic, and much safer to handle, by precipitating out the lead into an insoluble lead salt. Mix up about a pint of epsom salts. Make the solution saturated, i.e. add enough epsom salts so that no more will dissolve. Take your used dip, and slowly add the epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) solution. You will immediately see solid lead sulfate fall out (precipitate) as a powder. Continue adding epsom salts until no more lead sulfate forms. If in doubt, add it all. The solubility of lead acetate is about 50 grams per liter... that is a lot. Lead sulfate is only 0.0038 grams per liter. Lead sulfate is still toxic, like all lead salts, but much, much less dangerous than lead acetate. Yes I was once a chemist! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It's a classic reaction called a displacement. Ignore the peroxide, it plays no part in this. With lead acetate, you have the Pb++ ions floating about, dissolved, as well as the acetate anions. As soon as your solution of magnesium sulfate is added, the sulfate anions glom onto the lead cations, and they fall out as a white solid. It looks something like this Pb++ (aq) + 2[CH3COO]-(aq) + Mg++(aq) + SO4--(aq) ----> PbSO4(s) + Mg++(aq) + 2[CH3COO]-(aq) aq = aqueous, dissolved, s = solid The acetate ions and magnesium ions are called spectator ions; they don't do anything and remain dissolved. You'll end up with a fine white powder in the liquid, the lead sulfate. Yes it must still be treated as hazardous, but its ability to get into your body is much, much less likely as the lead acetate. It might take a long time to settle, and it eventually will. What you'll have is a layer of lead sulfate at the bottom of your container, topped with magnesium acetate solution and a tiny, tiny amount of dissolved lead sulfate. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The liquid still has traces of lead in it. You have a couple of choices: 1) Empty the contents into a LABELED bucket and let it evaporate to dryness. The solids will still have lead in them. Place all solids into a labeled container. 2) Sequester all of it into a poly container like an old milk jug. Clearly label it "POISON, LEAD SALTS" and take it to a place that accepts used/old household toxins like pesticides. All the making of lead sulfate does is minimize the danger, not eliminate it. It's similar to barium salts. Barium nitrate is a deadly poison because it is so soluble in water. Barium sulfate is so insoluble that you can drink a slurry of it, which is exactly what they do in hospitals for digestive radiological imaging. [div style='font-size: 8pt;'] Quoted:
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I have a Kestrel 22 with the SS Shrouded baffles. I have put a lot of 22 through it probably close to 5 before I got my rotary tumbler. It was a pain to clean. I ended up using the dip to get it 100% clean due to all the lead that has built up on the baffles from shooting it. Questions about the dip. I know it makes lead acetate. What if you were to some how neutralize the acid would it still be as dangerous? Would Baking soda neutralize the acid? MAHA http://www.silencertalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=99718&start=25 From the user Baffled: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Kind of a late reply, but a note on the "dip." Dipping produces lead acetate, a water-soluble lead compound that is just toxic as hell. It can be rendered LESS toxic, and much safer to handle, by precipitating out the lead into an insoluble lead salt. Mix up about a pint of epsom salts. Make the solution saturated, i.e. add enough epsom salts so that no more will dissolve. Take your used dip, and slowly add the epsom salts (magnesium sulfate) solution. You will immediately see solid lead sulfate fall out (precipitate) as a powder. Continue adding epsom salts until no more lead sulfate forms. If in doubt, add it all. The solubility of lead acetate is about 50 grams per liter... that is a lot. Lead sulfate is only 0.0038 grams per liter. Lead sulfate is still toxic, like all lead salts, but much, much less dangerous than lead acetate. Yes I was once a chemist! ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ It's a classic reaction called a displacement. Ignore the peroxide, it plays no part in this. With lead acetate, you have the Pb++ ions floating about, dissolved, as well as the acetate anions. As soon as your solution of magnesium sulfate is added, the sulfate anions glom onto the lead cations, and they fall out as a white solid. It looks something like this Pb++ (aq) + 2[CH3COO]-(aq) + Mg++(aq) + SO4--(aq) ----> PbSO4(s) + Mg++(aq) + 2[CH3COO]-(aq) aq = aqueous, dissolved, s = solid The acetate ions and magnesium ions are called spectator ions; they don't do anything and remain dissolved. You'll end up with a fine white powder in the liquid, the lead sulfate. Yes it must still be treated as hazardous, but its ability to get into your body is much, much less likely as the lead acetate. It might take a long time to settle, and it eventually will. What you'll have is a layer of lead sulfate at the bottom of your container, topped with magnesium acetate solution and a tiny, tiny amount of dissolved lead sulfate. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ The liquid still has traces of lead in it. You have a couple of choices: 1) Empty the contents into a LABELED bucket and let it evaporate to dryness. The solids will still have lead in them. Place all solids into a labeled container. 2) Sequester all of it into a poly container like an old milk jug. Clearly label it "POISON, LEAD SALTS" and take it to a place that accepts used/old household toxins like pesticides. All the making of lead sulfate does is minimize the danger, not eliminate it. It's similar to barium salts. Barium nitrate is a deadly poison because it is so soluble in water. Barium sulfate is so insoluble that you can drink a slurry of it, which is exactly what they do in hospitals for digestive radiological imaging. [div style='font-size: 8pt;'] Thanks !!! MAHA |
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5,000 rounds of rimfire would probably warrant a good cleaning. I try to ration out about 5,000 rounds a month. Quoted:
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What would be your definition of lots of 22LR 5,000 rounds of rimfire would probably warrant a good cleaning. I try to ration out about 5,000 rounds a month. Thank you, I won't hit numbers like that, once upon a time maybe but not now. |
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Been reading up on that. You can add sulfuric acid to lead acetate to make lead sulfate. That is still toxic, but precipitates out of solution and can be strained. The precipitate is easier to handle and dispose of. Still needs to go to a hazmat disposal. In general, most lead containing compounds have some level of human toxicity. Quoted:
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I have a Kestrel 22 with the SS Shrouded baffles. I have put a lot of 22 through it probably close to 5 before I got my rotary tumbler. It was a pain to clean. I ended up using the dip to get it 100% clean due to all the lead that has built up on the baffles from shooting it. Questions about the dip. I know it makes lead acetate. What if you were to some how neutralize the acid would it still be as dangerous? Would Baking soda neutralize the acid? MAHA Been reading up on that. You can add sulfuric acid to lead acetate to make lead sulfate. That is still toxic, but precipitates out of solution and can be strained. The precipitate is easier to handle and dispose of. Still needs to go to a hazmat disposal. In general, most lead containing compounds have some level of human toxicity. You can always pour it in a container and let it evaporate out in the sun down to a precipitate. |
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